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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(7! 6)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
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une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
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D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


□    Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagde 

□    Cov 
Cou 


D 
D 


D 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
verture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculde 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
ere  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
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mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6x6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


n 
n 

D 

0 
n 

n 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
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Pages  detached/ 
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Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
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Includes  supplementary  material/ 
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Only  edition  available/ 
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ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filrn^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


aire 

>  details 
|ues  du 
t  modifier 
iger  une 
9  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
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de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


1/ 
u6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
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dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END  "), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ^-signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


lire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  I'angle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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NAUR ATI  VE 


OF    A 


VOYAGE 


TO 


THE  NORTHWEST  COAST  OF  AMERICA 


IN  THE  YEARS  1811,  1812,  1813,  AND  1814 


OR   THE 


FIRST  AMERICAN  SETTLEMENT  ON  THE  PACIFIC 


By  GABRIEL  FRANCHERE 


TRANSLATED  AND   EDITED  BY  J.  V.  HUNTINGTON 


-i 
J? 


R  E  D  F  I  E  L  D 

110   AND    112   NASSAU    STREET,    NEW    VORK 

1854. 


f 

no 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1854, 

Bv  J.  S,  RED  FIELD, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  in  and 
for  the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


STKHKOTYPEn    nV   C.   C.    SAVAGE, 

15  Clmmbers  Street,  N.  Y. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


and 


In  1846,  when  the  boundary  question  (that  of 
the  Oregon  Territory  in  particular)  was  at  its 
height,  the  Hon.  Thomas  II.  Benton  delivered 
in  the  United  States  Senate  a  decisive  speech, 
of  which  the  following  is  an  extract :  — 

"  Now  for  the  proof  of  all  I  have  said.  I 
happen  to  have  in  my  possession  the  book  of  all 
others,  which  gives  the  fullest  and  most  authentic 
,  details  on  all  the  points  I  have  mentioned  —  a 
book  written  at  a  time,  and  under  circumstances, 
when  the  author  (himself  a  British  subject  and 
familiar  on  the  Columbia)  had  no  more  idea  that 
the  British  would  lay  claim  to  that  river,  than 


PREFACE   TO   THE   SECOND   EDITION. 


I 


i| 


Mr.  Harmon,  the  Aincrican  writer  whom  I  quoted, 
ever  thouglit  of  our  chiimiiig*  New  Caledonia.  It 
is  tlie  work  oi'  Mr.  Fuaxciieue,  a  gentleman  of 
Montreal,  with  whom  I  have  tlie  pleasure  to  l)c 
personally  acquainted,  and  one  of  those  enq)loyed 
by  Mr.  Astor  in  founding  his  colony.  He  Avas 
at  the  founding  of  Astoria,  at  its  sale  to  the 
Northwest  Company,  saw  the  place  seized  as  a 
British  conquest,  and  continued  there  after  its 
seizure.  lie  wrote  in  French :  his  work  has 
not  been  done  into  English,  though  it  well  de- 
serves it ;  and  I  read  from  the  Frencli  text.  He 
gives  a  brief  and  true  account  of  the  discovery 
of  the  Columbia." 

I  felt  justly  proud  of  this  notice  of  my  unpre- 
tending w^ork,  especially  that  the  latter  should 
have  contributed,  as  it  did,  to  the  amicable  set- 
tlement of  the  then  pending  difficulties.  I  have 
flattered  myself  ever  since,  that  it  belonged  to 
the  historical  literature  of  the  great  country, 
which  by  adoption  has  become  mine. 

The  re-perusal  of  "  Astoria"  by  Washington 
Irving  (1836)  ins])irod  me  with  an  additional 


I 


PREFACE   TO    THE   SECOND    EDITION. 


JTON 

Glial 


motive  for  givinrr  my  book  in  an  English  dross. 
Without  disparagcnient  to  ^[r.  Iuving's  literary 
fame,  I  may  venture  to  say  that  1  found  in  liis 
work  inaccuraeies,  misstatements  (unintentional 
of  course),  and  a  want  of  chronological  order, 
which  struck  forcibly  one  so  familiar  with  the 
events  themselves.  I  thought  1  could  show — 
or  rather  that  my  simple  narration,  of  itself, 
plainly  discovered  —  that  some  of  the  young  men 
eml>arked  in  that  expedition  (which  founded  our 
Pacific  empire),  did  not  merit  the  ridicule  and 
contempt  which  Captain  Tiioiix  attempted  to 
throw  upon  them,  and  which  perhaps,  through 
the  genius  of  Mr.  Irving,  might  otherwise  re- 
main as  a  lasting  stigma  on  their  characters. 

But  the  consideration  which,  before  all  others, 
prompts  me  to  offer  this  narrative  to  the  Amer- 
ican reading  public,  is  my  desire  to  place  before 
them,  therein,  a  simple  and  connected  account 
(which  at  this  time  ought  to  be  interesting),  of 
the  early  settlement  of  the  Oregon  Territory  by 
one  of  our  adopted  citizens,  the  enterprising 
merchant  John  Jacob  Astor.     The  importance 


6 


PREFACE   TO   THE   SECOND   EDITION. 


of  a  vast  territory,  which  at  no  distant  day 
may  add  two  more  bright  stars  to  our  national 
banner,  is  a  guarantee  that  my  humble  effort 
will  be  appreciated. 


t    ' 


Ml 


NOTE    BY    THE    EDITOR. 

It  has  been  the  editor's  wish  to  let  Mr.  Fran- 
chere  speak  for  himself.  To  preserve  in  the 
translation  the  Defoe-like  simplicity  of  the  ori- 
ginal narrative  of  the  young  French  Canadian, 
has  been  his  chief  care.  Having  read  many  nar- 
ratives of  travel  and  adventure  in  our  northwest- 
er xi  wilderness,  lie  may  be  permitted  to  say  that 
he  has  met  with  none  that  gives  a  more  vivid 
and  picturesque  description  of  it,  or  in  which  the 
personal  adventures  of  the  narrator,  and  the 
varying  fortunes  of  a  great  enterprise,  mingle 
more  happily,  and  one  may  say,  more  dramati- 
cally, with  the  itinerary.     The  clerkly  minute- 


TREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND   EDfTION. 


I 


ncss  of  the  details  is  not  witliout  its  charm 
citlic*.  and  their  fidelity  speaks  for  itself.  Take 
it  altogether,  it  mnst  be  regarded  as  a  fragment 
of  our  colonial  history  saved  from  oblivion ;  it 
fdls  up  a  vacuity  which  Mr.  Iuvixg's  classic 
work  does  not  quite  supply ;  it  is,  in  fact,  tho 
only  account  by  an  eye-witness  and  a  participa- 
tor in  the  enterprise,  of  the  first  attempt  to  form 
a  settlement  on  the  Pacific  under  the  stars  and 
stripes. 

Tlic  editor  has  thought  it  would  be  interesting 
to  add  Mr.  Franchere's  Preface  to  the  original 
French  edition,  which  will  be  found  on  the  next 
page. 

Baltimore,  February  6,  1854. 


■I 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FRENCH  EDITION. 


When  I  was  writing  my  journal  on  tlic  vessel 
which  carried  mc  to  the  northwest  coast  of 
North  America,  or  in  the  wihl  regions  of  this 
continent,  I  was  far  from  thinking  that  it  would 
be  placed  one  day  before  the  public  eye.  I  had 
no  other  end  in  writing,  but  to  procure  to  my 
family  and  my  friends  a  more  exact  and  more 
connected  detail  of  what  I  had  seen  or  learned 
in  the  course  of  my  travels,  than  it  would  liave 
been  possible  for  me  to  give  them  in  a  viva  voce 
narration.  Since  my  return  to  my  native  city, 
my  manuscript  has  passed  into  various  hands 
and  has  been  read  by  different  persons :  several 
of  my  friends  immediately  advised  me  to  print 
it ;  but  it  is  only  quite  lately  that  I  have  allowed 


!'ll 


w 


10 


PREFACE   TO    THE    FREXCII    EDITION. 


i  !' 


'    I! 


ii' 


myself  to  l)o  pcrsiiadod,  tluit  witliout  bein<i'  ii 
learned  naturalist,  a  skilful  geograplier,  or  a  pro- 
found moralist,  a  traveller  may  yet  interest  l)y 
the  faithful  and  succinct  account  of  the  situations 
in  which  he  has  found  himself,  tho  adventures 
which  have  happened  to  him,  and  the  incidents 
01  which  he  has  been  a  witness  ;  that  if  a  simple 
ingenuous  narrative,  stripped  of  the  merit  uf 
science  and  the  graces  of  diction,  must  needs  bo 
less  enjoyed  by  the  man  of  letters  or  by  the  sa- 
vant, it  vrould  have,  in  compensation,  the  advan- 
tage of  being  at  the  level  of  a  greater  number  of 
readers ;  in  fine,  that  the  desire  of  affording  an 
entertainment  to  his  countrymen,  according  to 
his  capacity,  and  w^ithout  any  mixture  of  the 
author's  vanity  or  of  pecuniary  interest,  would 
be  a  well-founded  title  to  their  indulgence. 
Whether  I  have  done  well  or  ill  in  yielding  to 
these  suggestions,  which  I  am  bound  to  regard 
as  those  of  friendship,  or  of  good-will,  it  belongs 
to  the  impartial  and  disinterested  reader  to 
decide. 


Montreal,  1819, 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  Montreal. —  Arrival  in  New  York. —  Descrip- 
tion of  that  City. —  Names  of  the  Persons  engaged  in  the 
Expedition page     23 

CHAPTER  n. 

Departure  from  New  York. —  Reflections  of  the  Author. — 
Navigation,  falling  in  with  other  Ships,  and  various  Inci- 
dent6,  till  the  Vessel  comes  in  Sight  of  the  Falkland  Isles.     32 

CHAPTER  in. 

Arrival  at  the  Falkland  Isles. —  Landing. —  Perilous  Situa- 
tion of  the  Author  and  some  of  his  Companions. —  Portrait 
of  Captain  Thorn. —  Cape  Horn. —  Navigation  to  the  Sand- 
wich Islands -^3 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Accident. —  View  of  the  Coast. — Attempted  Visit  of  the  Na- 
tiveg.— -Their  Industry. —  Bay  of  Karaka-koua. —  Landing 
on  the  Island. — John  Young,  Governor  of  Owahee.     .     .     53 


12 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Bay  of  Ohc'tity. —  Tamehameha,  King  of  the  Island. —  Hig 
Visit  to  the  Ship. —  His  Capituh — His  Naval  Force. —  His 
Authority. —  Productions  of  the  Country. —  Manners  and 
Customs. —  Reflections 


62 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Departure  from  Wahoo. —  Storm. —  Arrival  at  the  Mouth  of 
the  Columbia. —  Reckless  Order  of  the  Captain. —  Diffi- 
culty of  the  Entrance. —  Perilous  Situation  of  the  Ship.— 
Unhappy  Fate  of  a  Part  of  the  Crew  and  People  of  the 
Expedition 81 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Rtrgrcts  of  the  Author  at  the  Loss  of  his  Compani  ns. —  Ob- 
sequies of  a  Sandwich-Islander. —  First  Steps  in  the  For- 
mation of  the  intended  Establishment. —  New  Alarm. — 
Encampment 94 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Voyage  u^  the  River. —  Description  of  the  Country. —  Meet- 
ing with  strange  Incfians 104 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Departure  of  the  Tonquin. —  Indian  Messengers. —  Project 
of  an  Expedition  to  the  Interior. —  Arrival  of  Mr.  Daniel 
Thompson. —  Departure  of  the  Expedition. —  Designs  upon 
U8  by  the  Natives. —  Rumors  of  the  Destruction  of  the  Ton- 
quin.—  Scarcity  of  Provisions. —  Narrative  of  a  st/ange  In- 
dian.—  Duplicity  and  Cunning  of  Comcomly 116 


CHAPTER  X. 

Occupation  at  Astoria. —  Return  of  a  Portion  of  the  Men  r)f 
the  Expedition  to  the  Interior. —  New  Expedition. —  Ex- 
cureion  in  Search  of  three  Deserters 129 


CONTENTS. 


18 


62 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Dppnrturc  of  Mr.  R.  Stuart  for  the  Interior. —  Occupntions  at 
Astorin. — Arrival  of  Messrs.  Donald  M'Kenzie  and  Robert 
M'Lellan. —  Account  of  their  Journey. —  Arrival  of  Mr. 
Wilson  r.  Hunt 142 


81 


CHArTER  XII. 

Arrival  of  the  Ship  Beavor. —  Unexpected  Return  of  Messrs. 
D.  Stuart,  R.  Stuart,  M'Lelland,  vtc—  Cause  of  that  Re- 
turn. —  Ship  dischai'ging.  —  New  Expeditions.  —  Hostile 
Attitude  of  the  Natives. —  Departure  of  the  Beaver. — 
•Journeys  of  the  Author. —  Ills  Occupations  at  the  Estab- 
lishment         154 


94 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Uneasiness  respecting  the  "Beaver." — News  of  the  Decla- 
ration of  War  between  Gieat  Britain  and  the  United  States. 
—  Ct)nsequences  of  that  Intelligence. —  DilTerent  Occur- 
rences.—  Arrival  of  two  Canoes  of  the  Northwest  Com- 
pany.—  Preparations  for  abandoning  the  Country. —  Post- 
ponement of  Departure. —  Arrangement  with  Mr.  J.  G. 
M'Tavish 165 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Airival  of  the  Ship  "Albatross." — Reasons  for  the  Non-Ap- 
pearance  of  the  Beaver  at  Astoria. —  Fruitless  Attempt  of 
Captain  Smith  on  a  Former  Occasion. —  Astonishment  and 
Regret  of  Mr.  Hunt  at  the  Resolution  of  the  Partners.— 
His  Departure. —  Narrative  of  the  Destruction  of  the  Ton- 
quin. —  Causes  of  that  Disaster. —  Reflections 173 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Arrival  of  a  Number  of  Canoes  of  the  Northwest  Company. 
—  Sale  of  the  Establishment  at  Astoria  to  that  Company. 


14 


CONTENTS. 


—  Canailian  News. —  Arrival  of  the  British  Slonp-of-War 
"  Raccoon." — Accirlont  on  Board  that  Vessel. —  The  Cap- 
tain takes  Formal  Possession  of  Astoria. —  Surprise  and 
Discontent  of  the  Officers  and  Crow. —  Departure  of  the 
"Raccoon" 190 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Expeditions  to  the  Interior. —  Return  of  Messrs.  John  Stuart 
and  D.  M'Kcnzie.— Theft  committed  by  the  Natives.— 
War  Party  against  the  Thieves 205 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Description  of  Tongue  Point. —  A  Trip  to  the  IViUamct. — 
Arrival  of  W.  Hunt  in  the  Brig  Pedlar. —  Nan'ative  of  the 
Loss  of  the  Ship  Lark.— Preparations  for  crossing  the 
Continent 220 

CHAPTER  XVIIL 

Situation  of  the  Columbia  River. —  Qualities  of  its  Soil. — 
Climate,  &c. —  Vegetable  and  Animal  Productions  of  the 
Country _ 229 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Manners,  Customs,  Occupations,  &c.,  of  the  Natives  on  the 
River  Columbia 240 

CHAPTER  XX. 


Manners  and    Customs    of  the  Natives    continued. — Their 

•Medicine  Men. —  Funeral  Cer- 
emonies.—  tteiigious  rsotions. —  Lianguage 2')0 


Wars. —  Their  Marriages. 


■  Religious  Notions. —  Language. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Departure  from  Astoria  or  Fort  George. — Accident. —  Pas- 
sage of  the  Dalles  or  Narrows. —  Great  Columbian  Desert. 


rONTEXTS. 


15 


90 


205 


220 


>29 


■■^m 


—  Aspect  of  tlio  CiHiiitiy. — Wallawtilla  and  Slia-nptin  Riv- 
ers.—  Ratllcsiiivkes. —  Some  Details  regarding  the  Naliveg 

of  the  Upper  Columbia 263 

CnAPTER  XXII. 

Meeting  with  the  Widow  of  a  Hunter. —  Her  Narrative. — 
Reflections  of  the  Author. —  Priest's  Rapid. —  River  Oken- 
akan. —  K(>ttle  Falls. —  Pine  Moss. —  Scarcity  of  Food. — 
Rivers,  Lakes,  &c. — Accident.  —  A  Rencontre.  —  First 
View  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 273 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Course  of  the  Colunihian  River.  —  Canoe  River.  —  Foot- 
march  toward  the  Rocky  IMountains. —  Passage  of  tlie 
Mountains 286 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Arrival  at  the  Fort  of  the  Mountains, —  Description  of  this 
Post. —  Some  Details  in  Regard  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

—  Mountain  Sheep,  &c. —  Continuation  of  the  Journey. — 
Unhappy  Accident. —  Reflections. —  News  frf)m  Canada. — 
Hunter's  Lodge. —  Pembina  and  Red  Deer  Rivers    .     .     .  297 


MO 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Red  Deer  Lake. —  Antoine  Dejarlais. —  Beaver  River. —  N. 
Nadeau. —  Moose  River. —  Bridge  Lake. —  Saskatchawine 
River. —  Fort  Vermilion. —  Mr.  Hi-Jlet. —  Trading-Houses. 
—  Beautiful  Country. —  R(  flections 311 


!r)0 


CHAPTER  XXVL 

Fort  Montfie.  —  Cumberland  House.  —  Lake  Bourbon. — 
Great  WinipegRiipids. —  Lake  Winipeg. — Trading-House. 
—  Lake  of  the  Woods. —  Rainy  Lake  House,  &c.     .     .     .  325 


16 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Arrival  nt  Fort  William. —  Description  of  that  Post.— News 
from  the  River  Columbia 337 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Departure  from  Fort  William. —  Navigation  on  Lake  Superior. 
—  Michipicoton  Bay. —  IMceting  a  Canoe. —  Batcliawainon 
Bay. —  Arrival  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie. —  Occurrences  tliere.— 
Departure. —  Lake  Huron. —  French  River. —  Lake  Nipia- 
sing. —  Ottawa  River, —  Kettle  Falls.  —  Rideau  Rivei".— 
Long-Saut. —  Arrival  in  Montreal. —  Conclusion  ....  347 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Present  State  of  the  Countries  visited  by  the  Author. —  Cor- 
rection of  Mr.  Irving's  Statements  respecting  St.  Louis     .  359 


APPENDIX. 

Mr.  Seton's  Adventures. —  Survivors  of  the  Expedition  in 
1854. —  Author's  Protest  against  some  Expressions  in  Mr. 
Irvi.ig's  "Astoria." — Editor's  Note 367 


INTRODUCTION. 


Since  the  indepcndenco  of  the  United  States 
of  America,  the  merchants  of  that  industrious 
and  enterprising  nation  have  carried  on  an  ex- 
tremely advantageous  commerce  on  the  north- 
west coast  of  this  continent.  In  the  course  of 
their  voyages  they  have  made  a  great  number 
of  discoveries  which  they  have  not  thought 
proper  to  make  public ;  no  doubt  to  avoid  com- 
petition in  a  lucrative  business. 

In  1792,  Captain  Gray,  commanding  the  ship 
Columbia  of  Boston,  discovered  in  latitude  46° 
19''  north,  the  entrance  of  a  great  bay  on  the 
Pacific  coast.  He  sailed  into  it,  and  having  per- 
ceived that  it  was  the  outlet  or  estuary  of  a  large 


18 


INTRODUCTION. 


river,  by  the  fresh  water  wliicli  ho  found  at  a 
little  distance  from  the  entrance,  he  continued 
his  course  upward  some  eighteen  miles,  and 
dropped  anchor  on  the  left  hank,  at  the  opening 
of  a  deep  bay.  There  he  made  a  map  or  rough 
sketch  of  what  he  had  seen  of  this  river  (accom- 
panied by  a  written  description  of  the  soundings, 
bearings,  &c.) ;  and  having  finished  his  traffic 
with  the  natives  (the  object  of  his  voyage  to 
these  parts),  he  put  out  to  sea,  and  soon  after 
fell  in  with  Captain  Vancouver,  who  was  cruis- 
ing by  order  of  the  British  government,  to  seek 
new  discoveries.  Mr.  Gray  acquainted  him  with 
the  one  he  had  just  made,  and  even  gave  him  a 
copy  of  the  chart  he  had  drawn  up.  Yancou- 
ver,  who  had  just  driven  off  a  colony  of  Span- 
iards estaljlished  on  the  coast,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Scfior  Quadra  (England  and  Spain 
being  then  at  war),  despatched  his  first-lieuten- 
ant Broughton,  who  ascended  the  river  in  boats 
some  one  hundred  and  twe.dy  or  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  took  possession  of  the  country  in 
the  name  of  his  Britannic  majesty,  giving  the 


INTRODUCTION. 


10 


river  the  name  of  the  Columbia,  and  to  the  bay 
where  the  American  captain  stopped,  that  of 
Grai/'s  bay.  Since  that  period  the  country  had 
been  seldom  visited  (till  1811),  and  chiefly  by 
American  ships. 

Sir  Alexander  M'Kenzie,  in  his  second  over- 
land voyage,  tried  to  reach  the  western  ocean 
by  the  Columbia  river,  and  thought  he  had  suc- 
ceeded when  he  came  out  six  degrees  farther 
north,  at  the  bottom  of  Puget's  sound,  by  an- 
other river.* 

In  1805,  the  American  government  sent  Cap- 
tains Lewis  and  Clark,  with  about  thirty  men, 
including  some  Kentucky  hunters,  on  an  over- 
land journey  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 
They  ascended  the  Missouri,  crossed  the  moun- 
tains at  the  source  of  tliat  river,  and  following 
the  course  of  the  Columbia,  reached  the  shores 
of  the  Pacific,  where  they  were  forced  to  winter. 
The  report  which  they  made  of  their  oxpeaiiioR 
to  the  United  States  government  created  a  lively 
sensation.! 


*  M'Kenzie's  Travels. 


t  Lewis  and  Clark's  Report. 


--<ia«»..»f,ifc 


20 


INTliOliUCTlON. 


Mr.  Juhii  Jr  h  Astor,  a  New  York  mcrchuiit, 
wlio  couducttnl  most  aloiio  tlio  trade  in  furs 
south  of  the  great  lakes  Huron  and  Superior, 
and  who  had  acquired  by  that  connnerec  a  pro- 
digious fortune,  thouglit  to  augment  it  by  form- 
ing on  the  banks  of  the  CoUimbia  an  establish- 
ment of  which  the  principal  or  su})ply  factory 
should  be  at  the  mouth  of  that  river.  He  com- 
municated his  views  to  the  agents  of  the  North- 
west Company ;  he  was  even  desirous  of  form- 
ing the  proposed  establishment  in  concert  with 
them ;  but  after  some  negotiations,  the  inland 
or  wintering  partners  of  that  association  of  fur- 
traders  having  rejected  the  plan,  Mr.  Astor  de- 
termined to  make  the  attempt  alone.  He  needed 
for  the  success  of  his  enterprise,  men  long  versed 
in  the  Indian  trade,  and  he  soon  found  them. 
Mr.  Alexander  M'Kay  (the  same  Avho  had  ac- 
companied Sir  Alexander  M'  Kenzie  in  his  travels 
overland),  a  bold  and  enterprising  man,  left  tho 
Northwest  Company  to  join  him  ;  and  soon  after, 
Messrs  Duncan  M'Dougal  and  Donald  M' Kenzie 
(also    in    the    service    of   the    company),   and 


IXTRODIJCTIO.V. 


21 


McsFJi'S.  David  Slunrt  and  Robert  Stuart,  all  ut' 
Canada,  did  tho  tsanic.  At  len<i'th,  in  tlio  winter 
of  1810,  a  ^Ir.  Wil<on  Pi'ioo  Hunt  of  St.  Louis, 
on  tho  ^[is.sissi|)[)i,  liavin*^  also  joined  them,  they 
determini'd  tiiat  tho  expedition  should  be  set  on 
foot  in  the  followinu^  spring:. 

It  was  in  the  course  of  that  winter  tluit  one 
of  my  friends  made  me  acquainted  in  confidence 
with  the  plan  of  these  gentlemen,  under  the  in- 
junction of  strictest  secrecy.  The  desire  of 
seeing'  strange  countries,  joined  to  that  of  acquir- 
ing a  fortune,  determined  mc  to  solicit  employ- 
ment of  the  new  association  ;  on  the  20th  of  Iklay 
I  had  an  interview  with  Mr.  A.  M'Kay,  with 
whom  the  preliminaries  were  arranged ;  and  on 
the  24th  of  the  same  month  I  signed  an  agree- 
ment as  an  ai)prcnticed  clerk  for  the  term  of  five 
years. 

"When  the  associates  had  engaged  a  sufficient 
number  of  Canadian  boatmen,  they  equipped  a 
bark  canoe  under  charge  of  Messrs.  Hunt  and 
M'Konzic,  -srith  a  Mr.  Perrault  as  clerk,  and  a 
crow  of  fourteen  men.     These  crcntlcmen  were 


22 


INTRODUCTION. 


to  proceed  to  Mackinaw,  and  thence  to  St. 
Louis,  hiring  on  the  way  as  many  men  as  they 
could  to  man  the  canoes,  in  which,  from  the  last- 
mentioned  port,  they  were  to  ascend  the  Mis- 
souri to  its  source,  and  tliere  diverging  from  the 
route  followed  by  Lewis  and  Clark,  reach  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  form  a  junction  with 
another  party,  who  were  to  go  round  by  way  of 
Cape  Horn.  In  the  course  of  my  narrative  I 
shall  have  occasion  to  speak  of  the  success  of 
both  these  expeditions. 


■■■.I 


■I 


;^ 


NARRATIVE  OF  A  VOYACE 


TO   THE 


NORTHWEST  COAST  OF  AMERICA. 


CEAPTER  I. 

Dopnrturo  from  Montreal. —  Amval  in  Now  York. —  Dosniption 
of  tliut  City. —  Names  of  the  Persons  engugocl  in  tlio  Expedi- 
tion. 

We  remained  in  Montreal  the  rest  of  the 
spring  and  a  part  of  the  snmmer.  At  last,  hav- 
ing completed  onr  arrangements  for  the  journey, 
we  received  orders  to  proceed,  and  on  the  26th 
of  July,  accompanied  by  my  father  and  brothers 
and  a  few  friends,  T  repaired  to  th.»««lace  of 
embarkation,  wliere  was  prepared  a  birch  bark 
canoe,  manned  by  nine  Canadians,  having  Mr. 
A.  M'Kay  as  commander,  and  a  Mr.  A.  Fisher 
as  passenger.     The  sentiments  which  I  experi- 


24 


FRANCHKUR  S   VOYAGE. 


enccd  at  tliat  moment  would  be  as  difficult  for 
me  to  describe  as  iliey  "were  painful  to  support ; 
for  tlie  first  time  in  my  life  I  quitted  the  place 
of  my  birth,  and  was  separated  from  beloved 
parents  and  intimate  friends,  having  for  my 
whole  consolation  the  faint  hope  of  seeing  them 
again.  We  embarked  at  about  live,  P.  JM.,  and 
arrived  at  La  Prairie  de  la  Madeleine  (on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence),  toward  eight 
o'clock.*  We  slept  at  this  village,  and  the  next 
morning,  very  early,  having  secured  the  canoe 
on  a  wagon,  we  got  in  motion  again,  and  reached 
St.  John's  on  the  river  Richelieu,  a  little  before 
noon.  Here  we  relaunched  our  canoe  (after 
having  avcII  calked  the  seams),  crossed  or  rath- 
er traversed  the  length  of  Lake  Champlain,  and 
arrived  at  Whiteha\}  on  the  30th.  There  we 
were  overtaken  by  Mr.  Ovid  de  Montigny,  and 
a  Mr.  P.  D.  Jeremie,  who  were  to  be  of  the 
expedition. 

Having  again  placed  our  canoe  on  a  wagon, 


1 


*  This  place  is  famous  in  the  history  of  Canada,  and  more  par- 
ticularly in  the  thrilling  story  of  the  Indian  missions. —  Ed. 


ARRIVED    AT    NEW   YORK. 


2o 


ficult  for 

support ; 

ho  place 

beloved 

for    my 

ing  them 

.  M.,  and 

s  (on  the 

ard  eight 

the  next 

he  canoe 

I  reached 

le  before 

ic   (after 

or  rath- 

ain,  and 

lerc  we 

gny,  and 

of  the 

i  TV  agon, 


more  par- 
-Ed. 


?■% 


we  pursued  our  journey,  and  arrived  on  the  1st 
of  August  at  Lansingburg,  a  little  village  situated 
on  the  bank  of  the  river  Hudson.  Here  we  got 
our  canoe  once  more  afloat,  passed  by  Troy,  and 
by  Albany,  everywhere  hospitably  received,  our 
Canadian  boatmen,  having  their  hats  decorated 
with  parti-colored  ribands  and  feathers,  being 
taken  by  the  Americans  for  so  many  wild  Indians, 
and  arrived  at  New  York  on  the  3d,  at  eleven 
o'clock  in  the  evening. 

We  had  landed  at  the  north  end  of  the  city, 
and  the  next  day,  being  Sunday,  we  re-embarked, 
and  were  obliged  to  make  a  course  round  the 
city,  in  order  to  arrive  at  our  lodgings  on  Long 
Island.  We  sang  as  we  rowed  ;  which,  joined  to 
the  unusual  sight  of  a  birch  bark  canoe  impelled 
by  nine  stout  Canadians,  dark  as  Indians,  and 
as  gayly  adorned,  attracted  a  crowd  upon  the 
wharves  to  gaze  at  us  as  we  glided  along.  Wo 
found  on  Long  Island  (in  the  village  of  Brook- 
lyn) those  young  gentlemen  engaged  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  new  company,  wlio  had  left  Canada 
in  advance  of  our  party. 


26 


franchere's  voyage. 


The  vessel  in  which  we  were  to  sail  not  being 
ready,  I  should  have  found  myself  quite  isolated 
and  a  stranger  in  the  great  city  of  New  York, 

but  for  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr.  G , 

given  me  on  my  setting  out,  by  Madame  his  sister. 
I  had  formed  the  acquaintance  of  this  gentleman 
during  a  stay  which  he  had  made  at  Montreal  in 
1801 ;  but  as  I  was  then  very  young,  he  would 
probably  have  had  some  difficulty  in  recognising 
me  without  his  sister's  letter.  He  introduced 
me  to  several  of  his  friends,  and  I  passed  in  an 
agreeable  manner  the  five  weeks  which  elapsed 
between  my  arrival  in  New  York  and  the  depart- 
ure of  the  ship. 

I  shall  not  undertake  to  describe  New  York ; 
I  will  only  say,  that  the  elegance  of  the  buildings, 
public  and  private,  the  cleanliness  of  the  streets, 
the  shade  of  the  poplars  which  border  them,  the 
public  walks,  the  markets  always  abundantly 
provided  with  all  sorts  of  commodities,  the  ac- 
tivity of  its  commerce,  then  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition, the  vast  number  of  ships  of  all  nations 
which  crowded  the  quays ;  all,  in  a  word,  con- 


'4 


4^ 
1S 


I 


NEW   YORK. 


27 


iantly 


spired  to  make  me  feel  the  difference  between 
this  great  maritime  city  and  my  native  town, 
of  whose  steeples  I  had  never  lost  sight  before, 
and  which  was  by  no  means  at  that  time  what  it 
la  now. 

New  York  was  not  then,  and  indeed  is  not  at 
tliis  time  a  fortified  town ;  still  there  were  seve- 
ral batteries  and  military  works,  the  most  con- 
siderable of  which  were  seen  on  the  Narrows,  or 
channel  which  forms  the  principal  mouth  of  the 
Hudson.  The  isles  called  Governor's  Island, 
and  Bedloe  or  Gibbet  Island,  were  also  well  for- 
tified. On  the  first,  situated  to  the  west  of  the 
city  and  about  a  mile  from  it,  there  were  bar- 
racks sufficiently  capacious  for  several  thousand 
soldiers,  and  a  Moro,  or  castle,  with  three  tiers 
of  guns,  all  bomb-proof.  These  works  have  been 
strengthened  during  the  last  war. 

The  market-places  are  eight  in  number;  the 
most  considerable  is  called  Fly-Market. 

The  Park,  the  Battery,  and  Vauxhall  Garden, 

■are  the  principal  promenades.     There  were,  in 

1810,  thirty-two  churches,  two  of  which  wore  de- 


"^y&t&^ 


28 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


voted  to  the  catholic  worship ;  and  the  popula- 
tion was  estimated  at  ninety  thousand  souls,  of 
whom  ten  thousand  were  French.  It  is  thought 
that  this  population  has  since  been  augmented 
(1819)  by  some  thirty  thousand  souls. 

During  my  sojourn  at  New  York,  I  lodged  in 
Brooklyn,  on  Long-  Island.  This  island  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  city  by  a  sound,  or  narrow  arm 
of  the  sea.  There  is  here  a  pretty  village,  not 
far  from  which  is  a  basin,  where  some  gun-boats 
were  hauled  up,  and  a  few  war  vessels  were  on 
the  stocks.  Some  barracks  had  been  constructed 
here,  and  a  guard  was  maintained. 

Before  leaving  New  York,  it  is  well  to  observe 
that  during  our  stay  in  that  city,  Mr.  M'Kay 
thought  it  the  part  of  prudence  to  have  an  inter- 
view with  the  minister  plenipotentiary  of  his 
Britannic  majesty,  Mr.  Jackson,*  to  inform  him 
of  the  object  of  our  voyage,  and  get  Lis  views  in 
regard  to  the  line  of  conduct  we  ought  to  follow 
in  case  of  war  breaking  out  between  the  two 
powers  ;  intimating  to  him  that  we  were  all  Brit- 


This  gentleman  wiis  roiilly  charge  iVaffaires. 


THE  TOXQUIN. 


29 


popula- 
ouls,  of 
thought 
^merited 

[Iged  in 
is  sepa- 
ow  arm 
age,  not 
an-boats 
were  on 
structed 

observe 
M'Kay 
m  inter- 
of  his 
►rm  him 
riews  in 
3  follow 
the  two 
all  Brit- 


I 


i--| 


m 


1 


J 

1 
:5 


ish  subjects,  and  were  about  to  trade  under  the 
American  flag.  After  some  moments  of  reflection 
Mr.  Jackson  told  him,  "  that  we  were  going  on  a 
very  hazardous  enterprise ;  that  he  saw  our  o1> 
ject  was  purely  commercial,  and  that  all  ho 
could  prouiisc  us,  was,  that  in  case  of  a  war 
we  should  be  respected  as  British  subjects  and 
traders." 

This  reply  appeared  satisfactory,  and  Mr. 
M'Kay  thought  we  liad  nothing  to  apprehend 
on  that  side. 

The  vessel  in  which  we  were  to  sail  was  called 
the  Tonquin,  of  about  300  tons  burden,  com- 
manded by  Captain  Thorn  (a  first-lieutenant  of 
the  American  navy,  on  furlough  for  this  pur- 
pose), with  a  crew  of  twenty-one  men.  The 
number  of  passengers  was  thirty-three.  Here 
follow  the  names  of  both. 

Passengers. 


Partners  < 


'  Messrs.  Alexander  M'Kay 
«'        Duncan  M'Dougall, 
"       David  Stuart, 
•'        Robert  Stuart, 


all  of  Canada. 


■m 


30 


FRANCHERE'S   VOYAGE. 


Clekks  < 


James  Lnwia  of  New  York. 

Russel  Faniham  of  MassachiisettB. 

William  W.  Matthews  of  New  York 

Alexander  Ross, 

Donald  M'GilHs, 

Ovidc  do  Montigiiy, 

Francis  B.  Pillot, 

Donald  M'Lennan, 

William  Wallace, 

Thomas  M'Kay, 

Gabriel  Franchere, 

Oliver  Roy  Lapensce, 
Ignaco  Lapensee 


>  all  fn»m  Canachi. 


Basile  Lapensee. 
w  J  Jacques  Lafantaisie, 
Benjamin  Roussel, 
Michel  Laframboise, 
Giles  Lederc, 


H 

■< 
O 

PQ 


Joseph  LapieiTe, 
Joseph  Nadeau, 
J.  B'te.  Belleau, 
Antoine  Belleau, 
Louis  Brusl6, 
P.  D.  Jeremie, 
all  of  Canada. 


Johann  Koaster,  ship-carpenter,  a  Russian, 
George  Bell,  cooper,  New  York, 
Job  Aitken,  rigger  and  calker,  from  Scotland, 
Augustus  Roiissil,  blacksmith,  Canada, 
Guilleaumc  Perreaull,  a  boy.     These  Inst  were  all  me- 
chanics, &c.,  destined  for  the  establishment. 


Crew. 

Jonathan  Thorn,  captain.  New  York  State. 

Ebenezer  D.  Fox,  1st  mate,  of  Boston. 

John  M.  Mumford,  lid  mate,  of  Massachusetts. 

James  Thorn,  brother  of  the  captain,  New  York. 

John  Anderson,  boatswain,  foreigner. 

Egbert  Vanderhuff,  tailor,  New  York. 

John  Weeks,  cai"penter,  " 


'i 


CREW. 


81 


lu. 


re. 


■W,. 


■  V.v 


J 


sailmakeri. 


SxiLons.  i 


St»'])h«*n  Wt'pks,  armorer,  Now  York. 
.I(jhn  Coles,  New  York, 
John  Mnrlin,  a  Frenchman, 

John  White,  New  York 

Adam  Fislior, 

Teter  Verhel, 

Edward  Aymes,  " 

Robert  Hill,  Albany,  New  York. 

John  Adams,  " 

Joseph  Johnson,  Englishman, 
w  Charles  Roberts,  New  York, 

A  colored  man  as  cook, 

A  mulatto  steward. 

And  three  or  four  others  whose  names  I  have  forgotten 


lU, 


*re  all  me- 
lt. 


'M: 


.« 


32 


FFIANCHERE'S   VOYAfJE. 


i!  Hi!  I 


CHAPTER    II. 

Dopnrturo  from  New  York. —  Rofloctions  of  the  Author. —  Naviga- 
tion, falling  in  with  other  Ships,  and  various  Incidents,  till  the 
Vessel  comes  in  Sight  of  the  Falkland  Isles. 

All  being  ready  for  our  departure,  we  went 
on  board  shij3,  and  weighed  anchor  on  the  6th 
of  September,  in  the  morning.  Tlie  wind  soon 
fell  off,  and  the  first  day  was  spent  in  drifting 
down  to  Staten  island,  where  we  came  to  anchor 
for  the  night.  The  next  day  we  weighed  anchor 
again ;  but  there  came  on  another  dead  calm, 
and  we  were  forced  to  cast  anchor  near  the  light- 
house at  Sandy  Hook.  On  the  8th  we  weighed 
anchor  for  the  third  time,  and  by  the  help  of  a 
fresh  breeze  from  the  southwest,  we  succeeded 
in  passing  the  bar ;  the  pilot  quitted  us  at  about 
eleven  o'clock,  and  soon  after  we  lost  sight  of 
the  coast. 


REFLKCTIONS. 


33 


•—Navi  ga- 
ts, till  the 


re  went 
the  6tli 
nd  soon 
drifting 
>  anchor 
I  anchor 
,d  calm, 


le  light- 
weighed 
elp  of  a 
icceeded 
at  about 
sight  of 


One  must  have  experienced  it  one's  self,  to  bo 
able  to  conceive  the  melancholy  which  takes  pos- 
session of  the  soul  of  a  man  yf  sensibility,  at  the 
instant  that  he  leaves  his  country  and  the  civil- 
ized world,  to  go  to  inhabit  with  strangers  in 
wild  and  unknown  lands.  I  should  in  vain  en- 
deavor to  give  my  readers  an  idea,  even  faintly 
correct,  of  the  painful  sinking  of  lieart  that  I 
suddenly  felt,  and  of  the  sad  glance  which  I 
involuntarily  cast  toward  a  future  so  much  the 
more  frightful  to  me,  as  it  offered  nothing  but 
what  was  perfectly  confused  and  uncertain.  A 
new  scene  of  life  was  unfolded  before  me,  but 
how  monotonous,  and  ill  suited  to  diminish  the 
dejection  with  which  my  mind  was  overwhelmed ! 
For  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  found  myself 
under  way  upon  the  main  sea,  with  nothing  to  fix 
my  regards  and  arrest  my  attention  but  the  frail 
machine  which  bore  me  between  the  abyss  of 
waters  and  the  immensity  of  the  skies.  I  re- 
mained for  a  long  time  with  my  eyes  fixed  in  the 
direction  of  that  land  which  I  no  longer  saw,  and 
almost  despaired  of  ever  seeing  again ;  I  made 

9* 


84 


kranciiere's  voyage. 


serious  reflections  on  the  nature  and  consequences 
of  the  enterprise  in  wliich  I  had  so  rasldy  em- 
barked ;  and  I  confess  tliat  if  at  that  moment 
the  offer  had  been  made  to  release  me  from  my 
engagement,  I  should  have  accepted  the  proposal 
with  all  my  heart.  It  is  true  that  the  hopeless 
confusion  and  incumberment  of  the  vessel's  deck, 
the  groat  number  of  strangers  among  whom  I 
found  myself,  the  brutal  style  which  the  captain 
and  his  subalterns  used  toward  our  young  Cana- 
dians ;  all,  in  a  word,  conspired  to  make  mo 
augur  a  vexatious  and  disagreeable  voyage. 
The  sequel  will  show  that  I  did  not  deceive  my- 
self in  that. 

■  We  perceived  very  soon  in  the  S.  W.,  which 
was  our  weather  side,  a  vessel  that  bore  directly 
toward  us ;  she  made  a  signal  that  was  under- 
stood by  our  captain ;  we  hove  to,  and  stood  on 
her  bow.  It  turned  out  to  be  the  American  frig- 
ate Constitution.  "VVe  sent  our  boat  on  board  of 
her,  and  sailed  in  company  till  toward  five 
o'clock,  when,  our  papers  having  been  sent  back 
to  us,  we  separated. 


^ 


CAPK-VERD   iSLEvS. 


85 


qucnccs 
slilv  em- 
moment 
from  my 
proposal 
hopeless 
Vs  deck, 

whom  I 
3  captain 
ng  Cana- 
[nake  mo 

voyage, 
ccive  my- 

V.,  which 
3  directly 
as  under- 
stood on 
ican  frig- 
board  of 
rard  five 
sent  back 


1 


The  wind  having  increased,  the  motion  of  the 
vcb'scl  made  us  sea-sick,  hose  of  us,  I  mean,  who 
were  for  the  first  time  at  sea.  The  weather  was 
fine,  however ;  the  vessel,  which  at  first  sailing 
was  lumbciv<l  in  sucli  a  manner  that  wo  could 
hardly  get  in  or  out  of  our  liertlis,  and  scarcely 
work  sliip,  by  little  and  little  got  into  order,  so 
that  we  soon  found  ourselves  more  at  ease. 

On  the  14th  wc  commenced  to  take  flying  fish. 
The  24th,  wo  saw  a  great  quantity  of  dolphins. 
Wo  prepared  lines  and  took  two  of  the  latter, 
which  wc  cooked.  The  flesh  of  this  fieh  ap- 
peared to  me  excellent. 

After  leaving  New  York,  till  the  4th  of  Octo- 
ber, we  headed  southeast.  On  that  day  we 
struck  the  trade  winds,  and  bore  S.  S.  E. ;  being, 
according  to  our  observations,  in  latitude  IT'^ 
43^^  and  longitude  22^  39^^ 

On  the  5th,  in  the  morning,  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  CapO'Verd  islands,  bearing  W.  N.  W., 
and  distant  about  eight  or  nine  miles,  having  the 
coast  of  Africa  to  the  E.  S.  E.  We  sjiould  have 
been  very  glad  to  touch  at  these  islands  to  take 


86 


fraxcherk's  voyage. 


in  water  ;  l)ut  as  onv  vessel  was  an  Ainericaii 
bottom,  and  had  on  board  a  niiinlter  of  Jiritish 
subjects,  our  captain  did  not  think  lit  to  expose 
himself  to  meet  the  Enjrlish  ships-of-war  cruising 
on  these  coasts,  who  certainly  would  not  have 
failed  to  make  a  strict  search,  and  to  take  from 
us  the  best  part  of  our  crew ;  which  would  infal- 
libly have  proved  disastrous  to  the  object  for 
which  we  had  shi|)ped  them. 

Speaking  of  water,  I  may  mention  that  the 
rule  was  to  serve  it  out  in  rations  oC  a  quart  a 
day ;  but  that  we  were  now  redu'/od  to  a  pint 
and  a  half.  For  the  rest,  our  fare  consisted  of 
fourteen  ounces  of  hard  bread,  a  pound  and  a 
quarter  of  salt  beef  or  one  of  pork,  per  day,  and 
half  a  pint  of  souchong  tea,  with  sugar,  per 
man.  The  pork  and  beef  were  served  alter- 
nately :  rice  and  beans,  each  once  a  week  ;  corn- 
meal  pudding  with  molasses,  ditto ;  on  Sundays 
the  steerage  passengers  were  allowed  a  bottle  of 
Tenerifife  wine.  All  except  the  four  partners, 
Mr.  Lewis,  acting  as  captain's  clerk,  and  Mr.  T. 
M'Kay,  were  in  the  steerage  ;  the  cabin  contain- 


^1 


■^n 


i 
m 


A   SAIL. 


87 


iicncun 
liritish 
expose 
n-uisinp; 
ot  have 
kc  from 
1(1  iufiil- 
jcct   for 

that  the 
quart  a 
,0  a  pint 
sisted  of 
cl  and  a 
day,  and 
igar,  per 
cd   altcr- 
ik ;  corn- 
Sundays 
bottle  of 
partners, 
id  Mr.  T. 
1  contain- 


ing hut  six  l)crths,  besides  the  captain's  and 
first-nuitc's  state-rooms. 

As  long  as  we  were  near  tlie  coast  of  Africa, 
we  had  light  and  varial)le  winds,  and  extremely 
hot  weather ;  on  the  8th,  we  had  a  dead  calm, 
and  saw  several  sharks  round  the  vessel ;  wo 
took  one  which  we  ate.  I  found  the  taste  to  re- 
8em))le  sturgeon.  We  experienced  on  that  day 
an  excessive  lieat,  the*  mercury  being  at  94"^  of 
Fahrenheit.  From  the  8th  to  the  11th  we  had 
on  board  a  canary  bird,  which  we  treated  with 
the  greatest  care  and  kindness,  but  which 
nevertheless  quitted  us,  probably  for  a  certain 
death. 

The  nearer  we  approached  to  tlie  equator  the 
more  we  perceived  the  heat  to  increase :  on  the 
IGth,  in  latitude  G^,  longitude  22^  west  from 
Greenwich,  the  mercury  stood  at  108°.  "We 
discovered  on  that  day  a  sail  bearing  down  upon 
us.  The  next  morning  she  reappeared,  and 
approached  within  gun-shot.  She  was  a  large 
brig,  carrying  about  twenty  guns :  we  sailed  in 
company   all   day  by   a   good    breeze,   all   sail 


m 


88 


FKANCHEIIE  S   VOYAGE. 


spread ;  but  toward  evening  she  dropped  astern 
and  altered  her  course  to  the  S.  S.  E. 

On  the  18th,  at  daybreak,  the  watch  alarmed 
us  by  announcing  that  the  same  brig  which  had 
followed  us  the  day  before,  was  under  our  lee,  a 
cable's  length  off,  and  seemed  desirous  of  know- 
ing who  we  were,  without  showing  her  own 
colors.  Our  captain  appeared  to  be  in  some 
alarm ;  and  admitting  that  she  was  a  better 
sailer  than  we,  he  called  all  the  passengers  and 
crew  on  deck,  the  drum  beat  to  quarters,  and 
we   feigned   to  make  preparations   for  combat. 

It  is  well  to  observe  that  our  vessel  mounted 
ten  pieces  of  cannon,  and  was  pierced  for  twenty ; 
the  forward  port-holes  were  adorned  with  sham 
guns.  Whether  it  was  our  formidable  appear- 
ance or  no,  at  about  ton  A.  M.  the  stranger 
again  changed  her  course,  and  we  soon  lost  sight 
of  her  entirely. 

Nothing  further  remarkable  occurred  to  us  till 
the  22d,  when  we  passed  the  line  in  longitude  25° 
9".  According  to  an  ancient  custom  the  crew 
baptized  those  of  their  number  who  had  never 


f 


J 


■,;■  I  ,-;l 


CLOUDS  OP  MAGELLAN. 


39 


astern 

larmed 
cli  had 
r lee,  a 
f  know- 
or  own 
in  some 
I  better 
revs  and 
trs,  and 
combat, 
mounted 
■  twenty ; 
ith  sham 
(  appear- 
stranger 
ost  sight 

to  us  till 
Ltude  25° 
the  crew 
ad  never 


before  crossed  the  equator ;  it  was  a  holyday  for 
them  on  board.  About  two  o'clock  i*i  the  after- 
noon wc  perceived  a  sail  in  the  S.  S.  W.  We 
were  not  a  little  alarmed,  believing  that  it  was 
the  same  brig  which  we  had  seen  some  days 
before ;  for  it  was  lying  to,  as  if  awaiting  our 
approach.  We  soon  drew  near,  and  to  our  great 
joy  discovered  that  she  was  a  Portuguese ;  we 
hailed  her,  and  learned  that  she  came  from  some 
part  of  South  America,  and  was  bound  to  Per- 
nambuco,  on  the  coasts  of  Brazil.  Very  soon 
after  we  began  to  see  what  navigators  call  the 
Clouds  of  Magellan :  they  are  three  little  white 
spots  that  one  perceives  in  the  sky  almost  as 
soon  as  one  passes  the  equator :  they  were  situ- 
ated in  the  S.  S.  W. 

The  1st  November,  we  began  to  see  great 
numbers  of  aquatic  birds.  Toward  three  o'clock 
P.  M.,  we  discovered  a  sail  on  our  larboard,  but 
did  not  approach  sufficiently  near  to  speak  her. 
The  3d,  we  saw  two  more  sails,  making  to  the 
S.  E.  We  passed  the  tropic  of  Capricorn  on  the 
4th,  with  a  fine  breeze,  and  in  longitude  33°  27". 


40 


franchere's  voyage. 


We  lost  the  trade-winds,  and  as  we  advanced 
soutli  the  weather  became  cold  and  rainy.  The 
11th,  wo  had  a  calm,  although  the  swell  was 
heavy.  We  saw  several  turtles,  and  the  captain 
having  sent  out  the  small  boat,  we  captured  two 
of  them.  During  the  night  of  the  11th  and  12th, 
the  wind  changed  to  the  N.  E.,  and  raised  a  ter^ 
rible  tempest,  in  which  the  gale,  the  rain,  the 
lightning,  and  thunder,  seemed  to  have  sworn  our 
destruction ;  the  sea  appeared  all  a-iire,  while 
our  little  vessel  was  the  sport  of  winds  and 
waves.  We  kept  the  hatches  closed,  which  did 
not  prevent  us  from  passing  very  uncomfortable 
nights  while  the  storm  lasted;  for  the  great 
heats  that  we  had  experienced  between  the  trop- 
ics, had  so  opened  the  seams  of  the  deck  that 
every  time  the  waves  passed  over,  the  water 
rushed  down  in  quantities  upon  our  hammocks. 
The  14th,  the  wind  shifted  to  the  S.  S.  W., 
which  compelled  us  to  beat  to  windward.  Du- 
ring the  night  we  were  struck  by  a  tremendous 
sea;  the  helm  Avas  seized  beyond  control,  and 
the  man  at  the  wheel  was  thrown  from  one  side 


^1' 


WANT   OV   WATER. 


41 


vanced 
.  The 
qU  was 
captain 
•ed  two 
id  12th, 
;d  a  ter-r 


rain,  the 


vorn  our 
e,  while 
nds  and 
^hich  did 
iifortable 
le   great 
the  trop- 
eck  that 
ic  water 
immocks. 
S.  W., 
rd.     Du- 
3inendous 
trol,  and 
i  one  side 


of  the  ship  to  tlie  other,  breaking  two  of  his  ribs, 
wliich  confined  him  to  his  berth  for  a  week. 

In  latitude  35°  19",  longitude  40°,  the  sea 
appeared  to  be  covered  with  marine  plants,  and 
the  change  that  we  observed  in  the  color  of  the 
water,  as  well  as  the  immense  number  of  gulls 
and  other  aquatic  birds  that  we  saw,  proved  to 
us  tliat  we  were  not  far  from  the  mouth  of  tlie 
Rio  lie  la  Plata.  The  wind  continued  to  blow 
furiously  till  the  21st,  when  it  subsided  a  little, 
and  the  weather  cleared  up.  On  the  2oth,  being 
in  the  46th  degree,  and  30  minutes  of  latitude, 
we  saw  a  penguin. 

We  began  to  feel  sensibly  the  want  of  water : 
since  passing  the  tropic  of  Capricorn  the  daily 
allowance  had  been  always  diminishing,  till  we 
were  reduced  to  three  gills  a  day,  a  slouuv 
modicum  considering  that  we  had  only  salt  pro- 
visions. We  liad  indeed  a  still,  wliich  we  used 
to  render  the  sea-water  drinkable ;  but  we  dis- 
tilled merely  what  sufficed  for  the  daily  use  of 
tlie  kitchen,  as  to  do  more  would  have  required 
a  great  quantity  of  wood  or  coal.    As  we  were 


;t& 


42 


francheue's  voyaor. 


not  more  than  one  liiindred  and  fifty  leagues 
from  the  Falkland  isles,  we  determined  to  put 
in  there  and  endeavor  to  replenish  our  casks, 
and  the  captain  caused  the  anchors  to  be  got 
ready. 

We  had  contrary  winds  from  the  27th  of 
November  to  the  3d  December.  On  the  evening 
of  that  day,  we  heard  one  of  the  officers,  who 
was  at  the  mast  head,  cry  "  Land !  Land ! '' 
Nevertheless,  the  night  coming  on,  and  the  bar- 
ren rocks  wliich  we  had  before  us  being  little 
elevated  above  the  ocean,  we  hove  to. 


■^,'ia 

m 


:«"«<"*^' 


FALKLAND   ISLES. 


48 


leagues 
L  to  put 
r  casks, 
)  be  got 


1 


27th  of 
}  evening 
jers,  who 
Land!'* 
the  bar- 
ring little 


;l 


CHAPTER   III. 

Arrival  at  the  Falkland  Islrs. —  LuncUng. —  Perilous  Situation  of 
the  Author  and  some  of  his  Companions. —  Portrait  of  Captain 
Thorn,  —  Cape  Horn. —  Navigation  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

On  the  4th  (Dec.)  in  the  morning,  I  was  not 
the  last  to  mount  on  deck,  to  feast  my  eyes  with 
the  sight  of  land ;  for  it  is  only  those  who  have 
been  three  or  fuu.*  months  at  sea,  who  know  how 
to  appreciate  the  pleasure  which  one  then  feels 
even  at  sight  of  such  barren  and  bristling  rocks 
as  form  the  Falkland  Isles.  We  drew  near 
these  rocks  very  soon,  and  entered  between  two 
of  the  islands,  where  we  anchored  on  a  good 
ground.  The  first  mate  being  sent  ashore  to 
look  for  water,  several  of  our  gentlemen  accom- 
panied him.  They  returned  in  the  evening  with 
the  disappointing  intelligence  that  they  had  not 
been  able  to  find  fresh  water.    They  brought  us, 


44 


francherf:  s  voyage. 


to  compensate  for  tliis,  a  number  of  wild  geese 
and  two  seals. 

The  weather  appearing  to  threaten,  we  weighed 
anchor  and  put  out  to  sea.  The  night  was  tem- 
pestuous, and  in  the  morning  of  the  5th  we  had 
lost  sight  of  the  first  islands.  The  wind  blowing 
off  land,  it  was  necessary  to  beat  up  all  that  day ; 
in  the  evening  we  found  ourselves  sufficiently 
near  the  shore,  and  hove  to  for  the  night.  The 
6th  brought  us  a  clear  sky,  and  with  a  fresh 
breeze  we  succeeded  in  gaining  a  good  anchorage, 
which  we  took  to  be  Port  Egmont,  and  where 
we  found  good  water. 

On  the  7th,  we  sent  ashore  the  water  casks,  as 
well  as  the  cooper  to  superintend  filling  them, 
and  the  blacksmiths  who  were  occupied  in  some 
repairs  required  by  the  ship.  For  our  part, 
having  erected  a  tent  near  the  springs,  we  passed 
the  time  while  they  were  taking  in  water,  in 
coursing  over  the  isles :  we  had  a  boat  for  our 
accommodation,  and  killed  every  day  a  great 
many  wild  geese  and  ducks.  These  birds  differ 
ill  plumage  from  those  which  are  seen  in  Canada. 


.-'ds*^* 


'4 


PENGUINS. 


45 


d  geeso 

weighed 
was  teiii- 
L  we  had 
blowing 
bhat  day ; 
ifficiently 
ht.     The 
1  a  fresh 
iichorage, 
nd  where 

casks,  as 
ing  them, 
d  in  some 
our  part, 
we  passed 
water,  in 
at  for  our 
y  a  great 
3irds  differ 
in  Canada. 


We  also  killed  a  great  many  seals.  These  ani- 
mals ordinarily  keep  upon  the  rocks.  We  also 
saw  several  foxes  of  the  species  called  Virginia 
fox :  they  were  shy  and  yet  fierce,  barking  like 
dogs  and  then  flying  precipitately.  Penguins 
are  also  numerous  on  the  Falkland  Isles.*  These 
birds  liavc  a  fine  plumage,  and  resemble  the  loon: 
but  they  do  not  fly,  having  only  little  stumps  of 
wings  which  they  use  to  help  themselves  in  wad- 
dling along.  The  rocks  were  covered  with  them. 
It  being  their  sitting  season  we  found  them  on 
their  nests,  from  which  they  wouldnot  stir.  They 
arc  not  wild  or  timid :  far  from  flying  at  our  ap- 
proach, they  attacked  us  with  their  bill,  which  is 
very  sharp,  and  with  their  short  wings.  The  flesh 
of  the  penguin  is  black  and  leathery,  with  a  strong 
fishy  taste,  and  one  must  be  very  hungry  to  make 
up  one's  mind  to  eat  it.  We  got  a  great  quantity 
of  eggs  by  dislodging  them  from  their  nests. 

As  the  French  and  English  had  both  attempted 
to  form  cstablislmients  on  these  rocks,  we  en- 
deavored to  find  some  vestige  of  them;  the 
tracks  whicli  we  met  everywhere  made  us  hope 


46 


francheue's  voyage. 


to  find  goats  also :  but  all  our  researches  were 
vain :  all  that  wc  discovered  was  an  old  fishing 
cabin,  constructed  of  whale  bone,  and  some 
seal-skin  moccasins ;  for  these  rocks  offer  not  a 
single  tree  to  tlie  view,  and  are  frequented  solely 
by  the  vessels  which  pursue  the  whale  fishery  in 
the  southern  seas.  Wc  found,  however,  two 
head-boards  with  inscriptions  in  English,  mark- 
ing the  spot  where  two  men  had  been  interred : 
as  the  letters  were  nearly  obliterated,  we  carved 
new  ones  on  fresh  pieces  of  board  procured  from 
the  ship.  This  pious  attention  to  two  dead  men 
nearly  proved  fatal  to  a  greater  number  of  the 
living ;  for  all  the  casks  having  been  filled  and 
sent  on  board,  the  captain  gave  ofders  to  re-em- 
bark, and  without  troubling  himself  to  inquire  if 
this  order  had  been  executed  or  not,  caused  the 
anchor  to  be  weighed  on  the  morning  of  the  11th, 
while  I  and  some  of  my  companions  were  en- 
gaged  in  erecting  the  inscriptions  of  which  I  have 
spoken,  others  were  cutting  grass  for  the  hogs, 
and  Messrs  M'Dougall  and  D.  Stuart  had  gone 
to  the  south  side  of  the  isle  to  look  for  game. 


1 


I 


% 


■J 


^?»/V 


CAPTAIN   THORN. 


4T 


■I 


ics  were 
I  lishing 
id   some 
fcr  not  a 
cd  solely 
ishery  in 
ver,  two 
3I1,  mark- 
interred  : 
re  carved 
ired  from 
lead  men 
icr  of  the 
illed  and 

to  re-em- 
inquire  if 
;aused  the 
'  the  11th, 

were  en- 
ich  I  have 

the  hogs, 

had  gone 
for  game. 


Tl'c  roaring  of  the  3ea  against  the  rock-bound 
sliorc  prevented  tliem  from  liearing  the  gun,  and 
they  did  not  rejoin  us  till  the  vessel  was  already 
at  sea.  We  then  lost  no  time,  but  pushed  off, 
})cing  eight  in  number,  with  our  little  boat,  only 
twenty  feet  keel.  We  r  ^'id  with  all  our  might, 
but  gained  nothing  upon  the  vessel.  We  were 
losing  sight  of  the  islands  at  hist;  and  cur  case 
seemed  desperate.  While  wo  paused,  and  were 
debating  what  course  to  pursue,  as  we  had  no 
compass,  we  observed  the  ship  tacking  and  stand- 
ing toward  us.  In  fine  after  rowing  for  three 
hours  and  a  half,  in  an  excited  state  of  feeling 
not  easily  described,  we  succeeded  in  regaining 
the  vessel,  and  were  taken  on  board  at  about 
three  o'clock  P.  M. 

Having  related  this  trait  of  malice  on  the  part 
of  our  captain,  I  shall  be  permitted  to  make  some 
remarks  on  his  character.  Jonathan  Thorn  was 
brought  up  in  the  naval  service  of  his  country, 
and  had  distinguislied  himself  in  a  battle  fought 
between  the  Americans  and  the  Turks  at  Tripoli, 
some  years  before  :  he  held  the  rank  of  first  lieu- 


»  .'  'f 


48 


FRANCHERE  S    VOYAGE. 


tenant.  He  was  a  strict  disciplinarian,  of  a 
quick  and  passionate  temper,  accustomed  to 
exact  obedience,  considering  nothing  but  duty, 
and  giving  himself  no  trouble  about  the  murmurs 
of  his  crew,  taking  counsel  of  nobody,  and  fol- 
lowing Mr.  Aster's  instructions  to  the  letter. 
Such  was  the  man  who  had  been  selected  to  com- 
mand our  ship.  His  haughty  manners,  his  rough 
and  overbearing  disposition,  had  lost  him  the 
affection  of  most  of  the  crew  and  of  all  the  pas- 
sengers :  he  knew  it,  and  in  consequence  sought 
every  opportunity  to  mortify  us.  It  is  true  that 
the  passengers  had  some  reason  to  reproach 
themselves  ;  they  were  not  free  from  blame  ;  but 
he  had  been  the  aggressor ;  and  nothing  could 
excuse  the  act  of  cruelty  and  barbarity  of  which 
he  was  guilty,  in  intending  to  leave  us  upon  those 
barren  rocks  of  the  Falkland  isles,  where  we 
must  inevitably  have  perished.  This  lot  was 
reserved  for  us,  but  for  the  bold  interference  of 
Mr.  R.  Stuart,  whose  uncle  was  of  our  party,  and 
who,  seeing  that  the  captain,  far  from  waiting  for 
us,  coolly  continued  his  course,  threatened  to 


'iBT 


an,  of  a 
omcd    to 
but  duty, 
murmurs 
,  and  fol- 
le  letter, 
d  to  com- 
liis  rough 
liim  the 
I  tlie  pas- 
ce  sought 
true  that 
reproach 
ame ;  but 
ing  could 
of  which 
}on  those 
ivhere  we 
lot  was 
erence  of 
jarty,  and 
aiting  for 
atened  to 


■  ■■■I 


■r.     ^' 


•J.  -^ 

a 
o    ^ 


o 


••■'iiiiiiiiiypMi 


I 


^ 


CAPE  hor:^. 


49 


■ 


l>l()\v  his  brains  out  unless  ho  hove  to  and  took 
us  on  board. 

We  pursued  our  course,  bearin<]^  S.  i"  "^  ,  and 
on  the  14th,  in  latitude  54°  1',  lor^  ae  04° 
13',  we  found  bottom  at  sixty-five  fathoms,  and 
saw  a  sail  to  the  south.  On  the  loth,  in  the 
morning,  we  discovered  before  us  the  high  moun- 
tains of  Terra  delfiieg'o,  which  we  continued  to 
see  till  evening:  the  weather  then  thickened, 
and  we  lost  sight  of  them.  We  encountered  a 
furious  storm  which  drove  us  to  the  SOth  degree 
and  18'  of  latitude.  On  tlie  l(Sth,  we  were  only 
fifteen  leagues  from  Cape  Horn.  A  dead  calm 
followed,  but  the  current  carried  us  within  sight 
of  the  cape,  five  or  six  leagues  distant.  This 
cape,  which  forms  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
American  continent,  has  always  been  an  object 
of  terror  to  the  navigators  who  have  to  pass 
from  one  sea  to  the  other ;  several  of  whom  to 
avoid  doubling  it,  have  exposed  themselves  to 
the  long  and  dangerous  passage  of  the  straits  of 
Magellan,  especially  when  about  entering  the 
Pacific  ocean.     When  we  saw  ourselves  under 


)0 


FRAXCHEllE  8   VOYAGE. 


I 


-m      |i 


tho  stupendous  rocks  of  the  capo,  wo  felt  no 
other  desire  but  to  get  away  from  tlicm  as  soon 
as  possible,  so  little  agreeable  were  those  rocks 
to  the  view,  cvci  in  the  case  of  peoi)le  who  had 
been  some  mouths  at  sea !  And  by  the  lielp  of 
a  land  breeze  we  succeeded  in  gaining  an  ofiing. 
While  becalmed  here,  we  measured  the  velocity 
of  the  current  setting  east,  which  we  found  to  bo 
about  three  miles  an  hour. 

The  wind  soon  changed  again  to  the  S.  S.  W., 
and  blow  a  gale.  We  had  to  beat.  We  passed 
in  sight  of  the  islands  of  Diego  Ramirez,  and 
saw  a  large  schooner  under  their  lee.  The  dis- 
tance that  wo  had  run  from  New  York,  was 
about  0,165  miles.  We  had  frightful  weather 
till  the  24th,  when  we  found  ourselves  in  68° 
16'  of  south  latitude.  Although  it  was  tho 
height  of  summer  in  that  hemisphere,  and  tho 
days  as  long  as  they  arc  at  Quebec  on  the  21st 
of  June  (we  could  read  on  deck  at  midnight 
without  artificial  light),  tho  cold  was  neverthe- 
less very  great  and  tho  air  very  Immid :  the  mer- 
cu   '  for  several  days  was  but  fourteen  degrees 


THE   PACIFIC. 


51 


It  no 
soon 
rocks 
.0  had 
)lp  of 
offing. 
3locity 
I  to  bo 

S.  W., 
passed 
!Z,  and 
'he  dis- 
k,  was 
weather 
in  68° 
as  tho 
,nd  tho 
10  21st 
idnight 
svcrthe- 
10  mer- 
iegveea 


above  freezing  point,  by  Fahrenheit's  thermome- 
ter. If  such  is  the  temperature  in  these  lati- 
tudes at  the  end  of  Deceml)er,  corresponding  to 
our  June,  what  must  it  be  in  tlie  sliortest  days 
of  the  year,  and  wh^^rc  can  tlie  Patagonians  then 
talce  refuge,  and  the  inliabitants  of  the  ishinds  so 
iin})roperly  named  the  Land  of  Fire  ! 

Tlie  wind,  which  till  the  24th  had  been  con 
trary,  hauled  round  to  the  south,  and  we  ran 
westward.  The  next  day  being  Christmas,  wo 
had  the  satisfaction  to  learn  by  our  noon-day 
observation  that  we  had  weathered  the  cape, 
and  were,  consequently,  now  in  the  Pacific  ocean. 
Up  to  that  date  wo  had  but  one  man  attacked 
with  scurvy,  a  malady  to  which  those  who  make 
long  voyages  are  subject,  and  which  is  occasioned 
by  the  constant  use  of  salt  provisions,  by  tho 
humidity  of  the  vessel,  and  the  inaction. 

From  the  2oth  of  December  till  the  1st  of  Jan- 
uary, we  were  favored  with  a  fair  wind  and  ran 
eighteen  degrees  to  the  north  in  tliat  short  space 
of  time.  Though  cold  yet,  the  weather  was  nev- 
ertheless very  agreealrle.     On  the  ITtli,  in  lati- 


52 


fraxchere's  voyage. 


m 


tilde  10"  S.,  and  longitude  110°  50^  W.,  we  took 
several  bonitas,  an  excellent  fish.  We  passed  the 
equator  on  the  23d,  in  128"  14'  of  west  longi- 
tude. A  great  many  porpoises  came  round  the 
vessel.  On  the  25th  arose  a  tempest  which  last- 
ed till  the  28th.  The  wind  then  shifted  to  the 
E.  S.  E.  and  carried  us  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
four  miles  on  our  course  in  twenty-four  hours. 
Then  we  had  several  days  of  contrary  winds  ;  on 
the  8th  of  February  it  hauled  to  the  S.  E.,  and 
on  the  11th  we  saw  the  peak  of  a  mountain  cov- 
ered with  snow,  which  the  first  mate,  who  was 
familiar  with  these  seas,  told  me  was  the  summit 
of  MonorRoah,  a  high  mountain  on  the  island 
of  Ohehi/y  one  of  those  which  the  circumnavigu 
tor  Cook  named  the  S^andwich  Isles,  and  where 
he  met  his  death  in  1779.  Wo  headed  to  the 
land  all  day,  and  although  we  made  eight  or 
nine  knots  an  hour,  it  was  not  till  evening  that 
we  were  near  enough  to  dietinguish  the  huts  of 
the  islanders :  which  is  sufficient  to  prove  tho 
prodigious  elevation  of  Mona  Roah  above  the 
levol  of  the  sea. 


<  r 


ACCIDENT. 


58 


took 
d  the 
lOngi- 
d  the 
I  last- 
to  the 
jTciity- 
lours. 
ls;  on 
1.,  and 
n  cov- 
0  was 
ummit 
island 
lavigu 
where 
to  the 
ght  or 
ig  that 
luts  of 
)ve  the 
)ve  the 


■% 


% 

I 
'if 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Acciilont. — View  of  the  Coast. —  Attomptod  Visit  of  the  Natives. 
—  Their  Iiuhistiy. —  Bay  of  Kuraka-kona. —  Landing  on  the 
Island. — Julin  Young,  Governor  of  Owahce, 

We  were  ranging  along  tlie  coast  with  the  aid 
of  a  fine  breeze,  when  the  boy  Perrault,  who  had 
mounted  the  fore-rigging  to  enjoy  the  scenery, 
lost  his  hold,  and  being  to  windward  where  the 
shrouds  were  taut,  rebounded  from  them  like  a 
ball  some  twenty  feet  from  the  ship's  side  into 
the  ocean.  We  perceived  his  fall  and  threw 
over  to  him  chairs,  barrels,  benches,  hen-coops, 
in  a  word  everything  we  could  lay  hands  on ; 
then  the  captain  gave  the  orders  to  heave  to ;  in 
tlie  twinkling  of  an  eye  the  lasliings  of  one  of  the 
quarter-boats  were  cut  apart,  iha  boat  lowered 
and  manned :  by  this  time  the  boy  was  consider- 
ably a-stern.     He  would  have  been  lost  undoubt- 


54 


franchebe's  voyage. 


edly  but  for  a  wide  pair  of  canvass  overalls  full 
of  tar  and  grease,  which  operated  like  a  life-pre- 
server. His  head,  however,  was  under  when  ho 
was  picked  up,  and  he  was  brought  on  board 
lifeless,  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  after  he  fell 
into  the  sea.  We  succecJid,  notwithstanding, 
in  a  short  time,  in  bringing  him  to,  and  in  a  few 
hours  he  was  able  to  run  upon  the  deck. 

The  co"st  of  the  island,  viewed  from  the  sea, 
offers  the  hxost  picturesque  conp  cVaeil,  .xid  the 
loveliest  prospect ;  from  the  beach  to  the  moun- 
tains the  land  rises  amphitheatrically,  all  along 
which  is  a  border  of  lower  country  covered  with 
cocoa-trees  and  bananas,  through  the  thick  foli- 
age whereof  you  perceive  the  huts  of  the  island- 
ers ;  the  valleys  which  divide  the  hills  that  lie 
beyond  appear  well  cultivated,  and  the  moun- 
tains themselves,  though  extremely  high,  are 
covered  with  wood  to  their  summits,  except  those 
few  peaks  which  glitter  with  perpetual  snow. 

As  we  ran  along  the  coast,  some  canoes  left 
the  beach  and  came  alongside,  with  vegetables 
and  cocoa-nuts ;  but  as  we  wished  to  profit  by 


NATIVES. 


65 


s  full 
b-pre- 
icn  he 
board 
lie  Ml 
nding, 
a  few 

10  sea, 
xid  the 

moim- 

along 

}d  with 

ck  foli- 

islaiid- 

hat  lie 

moun- 

l^h,   are 

->t  those 

ow. 

3es  left 
D'etables 

'ofit  by 


V>1 


the  breeze  to  gain  tlie  ancliorage,  we  did  not 
think  fit  to  stop.  We  coasted  along  during  a 
part  of  the  night;  but  a  calm  came  on  which 
lasted  till  the  morrow.  As  we  were  opposite 
the  bay  of  Karaka-koua,  the  natives  came  out 
again,  in  greater  numbers,  bringing  us  cabbages, 
yams,  taro,  bananas,  bread-fruit,  water-melons, 
poultry,  &c.,  for  wliich  we  traded  in  the  way  of 
exchange.  Toward  evening,  by  the  aid  of  a  sea 
breeze  that  rose  as  day  declined,  we  got  inside 
the  harbor  where  wo  anchored  on  a  coral  bottom 
in  fourteen  fathoms  water. 

The  next  dav  the  islanders  visited  the  vessel 
in  great  numbers  all  day  long,  bringing,  as  on 
the  day  before,  fruits,  vegetables,  and  some  pigs, 
in  exchange  for  which  we  gave  them  glass  beads, 
iron  rings,  needles,  cotton  cloth,  etc. 

Some  of  our  gentlemen  went  ashore  and  were 
astonished  to  find  a  native  occupied  in  buildnig 
a  small  sloop  of  about  thirty  tons :  the  tools  of 
which  he  made  use  consisted  of  a  half  worn-out 
axe,  an  adze,  about  two-inch  blade,  made  out  of 
a  paring  chisel,  a  saw,  and  an  iron  rod  which  ho 


T 


■HI 


<4    »^ 


56 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


licatcd  red  hot  and  made  it  serve  the  purpose  of 
an  anger.  It  required  no  little  patience  and 
dexterity  to  acliieve  anything  with  such  instru- 
ments :  he  was  apparently  not  deficient  in  these 
qualities,  for  his  work  was  tolerably  well  ad- 
vanced. Our  people  took  liim  on  board  with 
them,  and  we  supplied  him  with  suitable  tools, 
for  which  he  appeared  extremely  grateful. 

On  the  14th,  in  the  morning,  while  the  ship's 
carpenter  was  engaged  in  replacing  one  of  the 
cat-heads,  two  composition  sheaves  fell  into  the 
sea ;  as  we  had  no  others  on  board,  the  captain 
proposed  to  the  islanders,  who  are  excellent 
swimmers,  to  dive  for  them,  promising  a  reward  ; 
and  immediately  two  offered  themselves.  They 
plunged  several  times,  and  each  time  brought  up 
shells  as  a  proof  that  they  had  been  to  the  bot- 
tom. We  had  the  curiosity  to  hold  our  watches 
while  they  dove,  and  were  astonished  to  find  that 
they  remained  four  minutes  under  the  water. 
That  exertion  appeared  to  me,  however,  to 
fatigue  them  a  great  deal,  to  such  a  degree  that 
the  blood  streamed  from  their  nostrils  and  ears. 


1 


CAPTAIN  COOK. 


57 


ISO  of 
J  and 
nstru- 

tlicse 
ill  ad- 
l  with 

tools, 

s  ship's 

of  the 

into  the 

captain 

collcnt 

eward ; 

They 
ught  up 
the  bot- 
watchcs 
hid  that 

water. 
ever,  to 
!:ree  that 
nd  ears. 


-■■:?J 


At  last  one  of  them  brouglit  up  the  sheaves  and 
received  the  promised  recompense,  which  con- 
sisted of  four  yards  of  cotton. 

Karaka-koua  bay  where  wo  lay,  may  be  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  deep,  and  a  mile  and  a  half 
wide  at  the  entrance :  tlie  latter  is  formed  by 
two  low  points  of  rock  which  appear  to  have  run 
down  from  the  mountains  in  the  form  of  lava, 
after  a  volcanic  eruption.  On  each  point  is  situ- 
ated a  village  of  moderate  size  ;  that  is  to  say,  a 
small  group  of  the  low  huts  of  the  islanders. 
The  bottom  of  the  bay  terminates  in  a  bold 
escarpment  of  rock,  some  four  hundred  feet  high, 
on  the  top  of  which  is  seen  a  solitary  cocoa-tree. 

On  the  evening  of  the  14th,  I  went  ashore  with 
some  other  passengers,  and  we  landed  at  the 
group  of  cabins  on  the  western  point,  of  those 
which  I  have  described.  The  inhabitants  enter- 
tained us  with  a  dance  executed  by  nineteen 
young  women  and  one  man,  all  singing  together, 
and  in  pretty  good  time.  An  old  man  showed 
us  the  spot  where  Captain  Cook  was  killed,  on 

the  14th  of  February,  1779,  with  the  cocoa-nut 

3* 


m 


58 


franchere's  voyage. 


u 


trees  pierced  by  the  balls  from  the  boats  Avhich 
the  unfortiiuatc  navigator  coinniandod.  Tiiis  old 
man,  whether  it  were  feigned  or  real  sensibility, 
seemed  extremely  affected  and  even  shed  tears, 
in  showing  us  these  objects.  As  for  me,  I  could 
not  help  finding  it  a  little  singular  to  be  thus,  by 
mere  chance,  upon  this  spot,  on  the  14th  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1811 ;  that  is  to  say,  thirty-two  years 
after,  on  the  anniversary  of  the  catastrophe 
which  has  rendered  it  for  ever  celebrated.  I 
drew  no  sinister  augury  from  the  coincidence, 
however,  and  returned  to  the  ship  with  my  com- 
panions as  gay  as  I  left  it.  When  I  say  with  my 
companions,  I  ought  to  except  the  boatswain, 
John  Anderson,  who,  having  had  several  alterca- 
tions with  the  captain  on  the  passage,  now 
deserted  the  ship,  preferring  to  live  with  the 
natives  rather  than  obey  any  longer  so  uncour- 
teous  a  superior.  A  sailor  also  deserted;  but 
the  islanders  brought  him  back,  at  the  request 
of  the  captain.  They  offered  to  bring  back 
Anderson,  but  the  captain  preferred  leaving  him 
behind. 


I 


iijj 


GOVKRXOR    YOUNG. 


69 


if 


vliich 

• 

is  old 

)aity, 

m 

tears, 

could 

us,  V»y 

f  Fob- 

years 

5tropbe 

'"?' 

ed.      I 

■'. 

idencc, 

ly  com- 
rith  my 

',; 

tswain, 

1 

alterca- 

4) 

e,  now 

ith  the 

4 

uncour- 

od;  but 

request 

1 

ig   back 

■          1 
% 

ving  him 

1 

We  found  no  good  water  near  Karaka-koua 
bay :  what  the  natives  brought  us  in  gourds  was 
brackish.  We  were  also  in  great  want  of  fresh 
meat,  but  could  not  obtain  it:  the  king  of  these 
islands  having  expressly  forl)idden  his  subjects 
to  sup})ly  any  to  the  vessels  wliich  touched  there. 
One  of  the  chiefs  sent  a  canoe  to  Tohehigh  bay,  to 
get  from  the  governor  of  the  island,  who  resided 
there,  permission  to  sell  us  some  pigs.  The 
messengers  returned  the  next  day,  and  brought 
us  a  letter,  in  which  the  governor  ordered  us  to 
proceed  without  delay  to  the  isle  of  Wahoo, 
where  the  king  lives  ;  assuring  us  that  we  should 
there  find  good  water  and  everything  else  we 
needed. 

We  got  under  way  on  the  16th,  and  with  a 
light  wind  coasted  the  island  as  far  as  Tohehigh 
bay.  The  wind  then  dropping  away  entirely, 
the  captain,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  M'Kay  and 
M'Dougall,  went  ashore,  to  pay  a  visit  to  the 
governor  aforesaid.  He  was  not  a  native,  but  a 
Scotchman  named  John  Young,  who  came  hither 
some  years  after  the  death  of  Captain   Cook. 


mtm 


60 


franciiere's  voyage. 


Tliis  mail  hod  married  a  native  woman,  and  had 
so  plained  the  ■Vicndshij)  and  confidence  of  the 
kiiifj,  as  to  be  raised  to  tlie  rank  of  cliief  and 
after  tlie  conqncst  of  Walioo  l)y  King  Tamc- 
liamcha,  was  made  governor  of  Owhyhcc  (Hawaii) 
the  most  considerable  of  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
both  l)y  its  extent  and  popnlation.  His  excel- 
lency explained  to  our  gentlemen  tlie  reason  why 
the  king  had  interdicted  the  trade  in  hogs  to  the 
inhabitants  of  all  the  islands :  this  reason  being 
that  his  majesty  wished  to  reserve  to  himself  the 
monopoly  of  that  branch  of  commerce,  for  the 
augmentation  of  liis  royal  revenue  by  its  exclu- 
sive profits.  The  governor  also  informed  them 
that  no  rain  had  fallen  on  the  south  part  of  Ha- 
waii for  three  years ;  which  explained  why  we 
found  so  little  fresh  water:  he  added  that  the 
north  part  of  the  island  was  more  fertile  than  the 
south,  where  we  were :  but  that  there  was  no 
good  anchorage  :  that  part  of  the  coast  being  de- 
fended by  sunken  rocks  which  form  heavy  break- 
ers. In  fine,  the  governor  dismissed  our  gentle- 
men with  a  present  of  four  fine  fat  hogs  ;  and  we, 


WAIIOO. 


61 


ill  return,  sent  liim  some  tea,  coffee,  and  choco- 
late, and  a  kejr  of  ^fadeira  wine. 

The  iiiulit  was  nearly  a  perfect  calm,  and  on 
the  ITth  we  found  ourselves  abreast  of  Mono- 
Wororayea  a  snow-capped  mountain,  like  Mona- 
Roahj  but  which  appeared  to  mo  less  lofty  than 
the  latter.  A  number  of  islanders  came  to  visit 
us  as  before,  with  some  objects  of  curiosity,  and 
somo  small  fresh  fisli.  The  wind  rising  on  tho 
18th,  we  soon  passed  the  western  extremity  of 
Hawaii,  and  sailed  by  Mowheo  and  Tahooraha, 
two  more  islands  of  tliis  group,  and  said  to  bo, 
like  the  rest,  thickly  inhabited.  The  lirst  pre- 
sents a  highly  picturesque  aspect,  being  com- 
posed of  hills  rising  in  the  shape  of  a  sugar  loaf 
and  completely  covered  with  cocoa-nut  and  bread- 
fruit trees. 

At  last,  on  the  21st,  we  approached  Wahoo, 
and  came  to  anchor  opposite  the  l)ay  of  Ohetity^ 
outside  the  bar,  at  a  distance  of  some  two  miles 
from  the  land. 


62 


FR  A  NC  here's   VO  Y  A  (IE. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Buy  of  Olu'tity. — Tamchiim(!hn,  King  of  tli«i  Islands. — Ills  Vi^it 
to  th«  Ship. — His  Ciipitul — His  Navnl  Force. — His  Author- 
ity.— Productions  of  iho  Country.— Manuera  and  Uustonis. — 
Uonc('tions. 

There  is  no  good  anchorage  in  the  bay  of 
Olictity,  inside  the  bar  or  coral  reef:  the  holding- 
ground  is  bad :  so  that,  in  case  of  a  storm,  the 
safety  of  the  ship  would  have  been  endangered. 
Moreover,  with  a  contrary  wind,  it  would  have 
been  difficult  to  get  out  of  the  inner  harbor ;  for 
which  reasons,  our  captain  preferred  to  remain 
in  the  road.  For  the  rest,  the  country  surround- 
ing the  bay  is  even  more  lovely  in  aspect  than 
that  of  Karaka-koua;  the  mountains  rise  to  a 
loss  elevation  in  the  back-ground,  and  the  soil 
has  an  appearance  of  greater  fertility. 

Tamehameha,  whom  all  the  Sandwich  Isles 


w 
till 


Til 


TAMniAMEITA. 


G3 


obeyed  wluMi  we  wore  tlic3n;  in  lh<ll,  was  neither 
the  son  nor  the  relative  of  Tierrol)oo,wli()  reifi'ned 
in  Owiiyhee  (Hawaii)  in  1771>,  when  Cai)tain 
Cook  aiul  sonic  of  liis  people  were  masHacn;(l. 
He  was,  at  tliat  date,  hut  a  chief  of  moderate 
power;  hut,  heini?  skilful,  inti'iguinjj^,  and  full  of 
amhition,  he  sueeeeded  in  pjaininii;  a  numerous 
]»art}',  and  hnally  possessed  himself  of  the  sov- 
ereii^nty.  As  soon  as  he  saw  himself  master  of 
Owhyhee,  his  native  island,  lie  meditated  the 
conquest  of  tlie  leeward  islands,  and  in  a  few 
years  he  accomplished  it.  lie  even  passed  into 
Atouai/,  the  most  remote  of  all,  and  vanquished 
the  ruler  of  it,  but  contented  himself  with  im- 
posing on  him  an  annual  tribute.  lie  had  fixed 
liis  residence  at  Wahoo,  because  of  all  the  Sand- 
wich Isles  it  was  the  most  fertile,  the  most  pic- 
turesque—  in  a  word,  the  most  worthy  of  the 
residence  of  the  sovereign. 

As  soon  as  we  arrived,  we  were  visited  by  a 
canoe  manned  by  three  white  men,  Davis  and 
Wadsworth,  Americans,  and  Manini,  a  Spaniard. 
The  last  offered  to  bo  our  interpreter  during 


w 


64 


.^'o 


FRANCHERE  S  VOYAGE. 


our  stay ;  which  was  agreed  to.  Tameliameha 
presently  sent  to  us  his  prime-minister,  Kraimoku, 
to  whom  the  Americans  have  given  the  name  of 
Pitt,  on  account  of  his  skill  in  the  affairs  of  gov- 
ernment. Our  captain,  accompanied  by  some  of 
our  gentlemen,  went  ashore  immediately,  to  be 
presented  to  Tameliameha.  About  four  o'clock, 
P.  M.,  wc  saw  them  returning,  accompanied  by  a 
double  pirogue  conveying  the  king  and  his  suite. 
AVe  ran  up  o'lr  colors,  and  received  his  majesty 
with  a  salute  of  four  guns. 

Tamehameha  was  above  the  middle  height, 
well  made,  robust  and  inclined  to  corpulency, 
and  had  a  majestic  carriage.  He  appeared  to 
me  from  fifty  to  sixty  years  old.  He  was  clothed 
in  the  European  style,  and  wore  a  sword.  Ho 
walked  a  long  time  on  the  deck,  asking  explana- 
tions in  regard  to  those  things  which  he  had  not 
seen  on  other  vessels,  and  which  were  found  on 
ours.  A  tiling  which  appeared  to  surprise  him, 
was  to  see  that  we  could  render  the  water  of  the 
sea  fresii,  by  means  of  the  still  attached  to  our 
caboose ;  ho  could  not  imagine  how  that  could 


?>■  'a 


THE    KING  .S    WIVF,^. 


65 


imeha 
Imoku, 
\mc  of 
3f  gov- 
omc  of 
,  to  be 
o'clock, 
cd  by  a 
is  suite, 
majesty 

5  heiglit, 
•pulcncy, 
(cared  to 
s  clotbcd 
ord.     He 
cxplana- 
3  had  not 
found  on 
mao  bim, 
iter  of  tbc 
cd  to  our 
hat  could 


bo  done.  We  invited  liim  into  the  cabin,  and, 
havinj^  n  v;ah:'d  him  witli  some  glasses  of  wine, 
bojriiii  to  talk  of  l)usiness  matters:  we  oflbred 
hi  111  merchandise  in  exchange  for  hogs,  but  were 
not  al)le  to  conclude  the  bargain  that  day.  His 
majesty  re-embarked  in  his  double  pirogue,  at 
about  six  o'clock  in  the  evening.  It  was  manned 
by  twenty-four  men.  A  great  chest,  containing 
lirearms,  was  lashod  over  the  centre  of  the  two 
canoes  forming  the  pirogue ;  and  it  was  there 
tliat  Tamehameha  sat,  with  his  prime-minister  at 
his  side. 

In  the  morning,  on  the  22d,  we  sent  our  water- 
casks  ashore  and  fdled  them  with  excellent  water. 
At  about  noon  his  sable  nuijesty  paid  us  another 
visit,  accompanied  by  his  three  wives  and  his 
favorite  minister.  These  females  were  of  an 
extraordinary  corpulence,  and  of  unmeasured 
size.  They  were  dressed  in  the  fashion  of  the 
country,  having  nothing  but  a  piece  of  tapa^  or 
bark-cloth,  about  two  yards  long,  passed  round 
the  hips  and  falling  to  the  knees.  We  resumed 
the  negotiations  of  the  day  before,  and  wore 


Gi] 


v\i\ xniKRK's  V^O YAr.H. 


more  successful.  I  remarked  that  when  tlic  bar- 
gain was  concluded,  lie  insisted  with  great  per- 
tinacity that  part  of  the  payment  should  bo  in 
Spanish  dollars.  We  asked  the  reason,  and  ho 
made  answer  that  he  wished  to  buy  a  frigate  of 
his  brother,  King  George,  meaning  the  king  of 
England.  The  bargain  concluded,  we  prayed  his 
majesty  and  his  suite  to  dine  v;itli  us ;  they  con- 
sented, and  toward  evening  retired,  apparently 
well  satisfied  with  their  visit  and  our  reception 
of  them. 

In  the  meantime,  the  natives  surrounded  the 
ship  in  great  numbers,  with  hundreds  of  canoes, 
oftering  us  their  goods,  in  the  shape  of  eatables 
and  the  rude  manufactures  of  the  island,  in  ex- 
change for  merchandise ;  but,  as  they  had  also 
brought  intoxicating  liquors  in  gourds,  some  of 
the  crew  got  drunk ;  the  captain  was,  conse- 
quently, obliged  to  suspend  the  trade,  and  for- 
bade any  one  to  traffic  with  the  islanders,  except 
through  the  first-mate,  who  was  intrusted  with 
that  business. 

I  landed  on  the  22d,  with  Messrs.  Fillet  and 


3] 
ih 

til 

f 

i        nu 

COl 

his 
a  11 

I>ei'I] 

in  t] 

there 

nific( 

s  tori  J 

lilttCl 

whicll 

excln 

vessel 

hesidi 

had 

hurthi 

tributi 


OH  EXIT  Y. 


G7 


M'Gillis:  wc  passed  tlic  night  ashore,  spending 
tliat  day  and  the  next  morning  in  rambling  over 
tlic  environs  of  the  bay,  followed  by  a  crowd  of 
men,  women,  and  children. 

Ohetity,  where  Tamehamelia  resides,  and  which, 
consequently,  may  be  regarded  as  the  capital  of 
his  kingdom,  is — or  at  least  was  at  that  time  — 
a  moderate-sized  city,  or  rather  a  large  village. 
Besides  the  private  houses,  of  which  there  were 
])crhaps  two  liundrcd,  constructed  of  poles  planted 
iu  the  ground  and  covered  over  with  matting, 
tliere  were  the  royal  palace,  which  was  not  mag- 
nificent by  any  means :  a  public  st  .'C,  of  two 
stories,  one  of  stone  and  the  other  of  wood  ;  two 
morals,  or  idol  temples,  and  a  wharf.  At  the 
latter  we  foimd  an  old  vessel,  the  Lady  Bird, 
wliich  some  American  navigators  had  given  in 
exchange  for  a  schooner ;  it  was  the  only  largo 
vessel  which  King  Tamehameha  possessed ;  and, 
besides,  was  worth  nothing.  As  for  schooners  he 
liad  forty  of  them,  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  tons 
burthen:  these  vessels  served  to  transport  the 
tributes  in  kind  paid  by  his  vassals  in  the  other 


mm 


G8 


fuaxcfikue's  voyage. 


islands.  Before  the  Europeans  arrived  among 
these  savages,  the  hxtter  had  no  means  of  com- 
munication between  one  isk^  and  another,  but 
their  canoes,  and  as  some  of  the  islands  are  not 
in  sight  of  each  other,  these  voyages  must  have 
been  dangerous.  Near  the  palace  I  found  an 
Indian  from  Bombay,  occupied  in  making  a 
twelve  inch  cable,  for  the  use  of  the  ship  which  I 
have  described. 

Tamchameha  kept  constantly  round  his  house  a 
guard  of  twenty-four  men.  These  soldiers  wore, 
by  way  of  miiform,  a  long  blue  coat  with  yellow ; 
and  each  was  armed  with  a  musket.  In  front  of 
the  house,  on  an  open  square,  were  placed  four- 
teen four-pounders,  mounted  on  their  carriages. 

The  king  was  absolute,  and  judged  in  person 
the  diflferences  between  his  subjects.  We  had 
an  opportunity  of  witnessing  a  proof  of  it,  the 
day  after  our  landing.  A  Portuguese  having 
had  a  quarrel  with  a  native,  who  was  intoxicated, 
struck  him :  immediately  the  friends  of  the  latter, 
who  had  been  the  aggressor  after  all,  gathered 
iu  a  crowd  to  boat  down  the  poor  foreigner  with 


•V 

•■■?. 


been 

unde 

white 

that 

trade 


COURT   OF  JUSTICE. 


69 


I  among 
I  of  coiu- 
■hcr,  but 
s  are  not 
lUst  have 
found  an 
iiaking    a 
p  which  I 

lis  house  a 
liers  wore, 
th  yellow ; 
[n  front  of 
laced  four- 
jar  riages. 
in  person 
We  had 
of  it,  the 
cse  having 
ntoxicated, 
f  the  latter, 
11,  gathered 
eigne  r  with 


stones ;  he  fled  as  fast  as  he  could  to  the  house 
of  the  khig,  followed  by  a  mob  of  enraged  na- 
tives, who  nevertheless  stopped  at  some  distance 
from  the  guards,  while  the  Portuguese,  all  breath- 
less, crouched  in  a  corner.  We  were  on  the  es- 
planade in  front  of  the  palace  royal,  and  curi- 
osity to  sec  the  trial  led  us  into  the  presence  of 
his  majesty,  who  having  caused  the  quarrel  to  bo 
explained  to  him,  and  heard  the  witnesses  on 
both  sides,  condemned  the  native  to  work  four 
days  in  the  garden  of  the  Portuguese  and  to  give 
him  a  hog.  A  young  Frenchman  from  Bordeaux, 
prece^.tor  of  the  king's  sons,  whom  he  taught  to 
read,  and  who  understood  the  language,  acted  as 
interpreter  to  the  Portuguese,  and  explained  to 
us  the  sentence.  I  can  not  say  whether  our  pres- 
ence influenced  the  decision,  or  whether,  under 
other  circumstances,  the  Portuguese  would  have 
been  less  favorably  treated.  We  were  given  to 
understand  that  Tamehameha  was  pleased  to  see 
whites  establish  themselves  in  his  dominions,  but 
that  he  esteemed  only  people  with  some  useful 
trade,  and  despised  idlers,  and  especially  drunk- 


MMMI 


70 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


ards.  Wo  saw  at  Wahoo  about  thirty  of  these 
white  inhabitants,  for  the  most  part,  people  of 
no  character,  and  who  had  remained  on  the 
islands  cither  from  indolence,  or  from  drunken- 
ness and  licentiousness.  Some  had  taken  wives 
in  the  country,  in  which  case  the  king  gave  them 
a  portion  of  land  to  cultivate  for  themselves. 
But  two  of  the  worst  sort  had  found  means  to 
procure  a  small  still,  wherewith  they  manufac- 
tured rum  and  supplied  it  to  the  natives. 

The  first  navigators  found  only  four  sorts  of 
quadrupeds  on  the  Sandwich  islands ; —  dogs, 
swine,  lizards,  and  rats.  Since  then  sheep  have 
been  carried  there,  goats,  horned  cattle,  and  even 
horses,  and  these  animals  have  multiplied. 

The  chief  vegetable  productions  of  these  isles 
are  the  sugar  cane,  the  bread-fruit  tree,  the 
banana,  the  water-melon,  the  musk-melon,  the 
taro^  the  ava,  the  pandanus^  the  mulberry,  <fec. 
The  bread-fruit  tree  is  about  the  size  of  a  largo 
apple-tree ;  the  fruit  resembles  an  apple  and  is 
about  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  in  circumference ; 
tho  rind  is  thick  and  rough  like  a  melon :  when 


3 


1* 


THE  TARO. 


71 


these 
pie  of 
>n  the 
uukcn- 
i  wives 
-c  them 
iisclves. 
tcans  to 
nanufac- 

sorts  of 
:— dogs, 
ccp  have 
and  even 

d. 

,liese  isles 
tree,  the 
elon,  the 
^crry,  &c. 
)f  a  largo 
Iple  and  is 
imference ; 
Ion:  when 


cut  transversely  it  is  found  to  be  full  of  sacs,  like 
the  inside  of  an  orange  ;  tlie  pulp  has  the  consis- 
tence of  water-melon,  and  is  cooked  before  it  is 
eaten.  We  saw  orchards  of  bread-fruit  trees 
aud  bananas,  and  fields  of  sugar-cane,  back  of 
Ohctity. 

The  taro  grows  in  low  situations,  and  demands 
a  great  deal  of  care.  It  is  not  unlike  a  white 
turnip,*  and  as  it  constitutes  the  principal  food 
of  the  natives,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that 
they  bcstovv^  so  much  attention  on  its  culture. 
Wherever  a  spring  of  pure  water  is  found  issu- 
ing out  of  the  side  of  a  hill,  the  gardener  marks 
out  on  the  declivity  the  size  of  the  field  he  in- 
tends to  plant.  The  ground  is  levelled  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  mud  or  stone  wall,  not  exceed- 
ing eighteen  inches  in  height,  and  having  a  flood 
gate  above  and  below.  Into  this  enclosure  the 
water  of  the  spring  is  conducted,  or  is  suffered 
to  escape  from  it,  according  to  the  dryness  of  the 
season.  When  the  root  has  acquired  a  sufficient 
size  it  is  pulled  up  for  immediate  use.     This  es- 

*  Bougainville  calls  it  "Calf-foot  root." 


iliii  (fpflffl*** 


72 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


culcnt  is  very  bad  to  cat  raw,  but  boiled  it  is 
better  than  the  yam.  Cut  in  slices,  dried, 
pounded  and  reduced  to  a  farina,  it  forms  with 
bread  fruit  the  principal  food  of  the  natives. 
Sometimes  they  boil  it  to  the  consistence  of  por- 
ridge, which  they  put  into  gourds  and  allow  to 
ferment ;  it  will  then  keep  a  long  time.  They 
also  use  to  mix  with  it,  fish,  which  they  com- 
monly eat  raw  with  the  addition  of  a  little  salt, 
obtained  by  evaporation. 

The  aim  is  a  plant  more  injurious  than  useful 
to  the  inhabitants  of  these  isles  ;  since  they  only 
make  use  of  it  to  obtain  a  dangerous  and  intoxi- 
cating drink,  which  they  also  call  aim.  The 
mode  of  preparing  this  beverage  is  as  lollows : 
tliey  chew  the  root,  and  spit  out  the  result  into  a 
basin  ;  the  juice  thus  expressed  is  exposed  to  tlie 
sun  to  undergo  fermentation ;  after  which  they 
decant  it  into  a  gourd  ;  it  is  then  fit  for  use,  and 
they  drink  it  on  occasions  to  intoxication.  The 
too  frequent  use  of  this  disgusting  liquor  causes 
loss  of  sight,  and  a  sort  of  leprosy,  which  can 
only  be  cured   by  abstaining   from  it,  and   by 


■i^ 


uti 


THEIR   CLOTHING. 


73 


it  is 
dried, 
s  with 
ativcs. 
of  por- 
llow  to 
They 
jy  corn- 
tie  salt, 


bathing  frequently  in  the  water  of  the  sea.  This 
leprosy  turns  their  skin  white :  we  saw  several 
of  the  lepers,  who  were  also  blind,  or  nearl}'  io. 
The  natives  arc  also  fond  of  smoking :  the  tobac- 
co grows  in  the  islands,  but  I  ])elieve  it  has  been 
introduced  from  abroad.  The  bark  of  the  mul- 
berry furnishes  the  cloth  worn  by  both  sexes ;  of 
the  leaves  of  the  pandanus  they  make  mats. 
They  have  also  a  kind  of  .va  nut,  about  the  size 
of  a  dried  plum  of  whici..  they  make  candles  V)y 
running  a  stick  through  several  of  them.  Light- 
ed at  one  end,  they  b'  'n  like  a  wax  taper,  and 
are  the  only  light  they  use  in  their  huts  at  night. 
The  men  are  generally  well  made  and  tall : 
they  wear  for  their  entire  clothing  what  they 
call  a  maw ;  it  is  a  piece  of  figured  or  white 
tapa,  two  yards  long  and  a  foot  wide,  which  they 
pass  round  the  loins  and  between  the  legs,  tying 
the  ends  in  a  knot  over  the  left  hip.  At  first 
sight  I  thought  they  were  painted  red,  but  soon 
perceived  that  it  was  the  natural  color  of  tlieir 
skin.  The  women  wear  a  petticoat  of  the  same 
stuff  as  the  maro,  but  wider  and  longer,  without, 


«•. 


74 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


however,  reaching  below  the  knees.  They  have 
sufficiently  regular  features,  anil  but  for  the 
color,  may  pass,  generally  speaking,  for  hand- 
some women.  Some  to  heighten  their  charms, 
dye  their  black  hair  (cut  short  for  the  purpose) 
with  quick  lime,  forming  round  the  head  a  strip 
of  pure  white,  which  disfigures  them  monstrously. 
Others  among  the  young  wear  a  more  becoming 
garland  of  (lowers.  For  other  traits,  they  are 
very  lascivious,  and  far  from  observing  a  modest 
reserve,  especially  toward  strangers.  In  regard 
to  articles  of  mere  ornament,  I  was  told  that  they 
were  not  the  same  in  all  the  island.  I  did  not 
see  tliem,  cither,  clothed  in  their  war  dresses,  or 
habits  of  ceremony.  But  I  had  an  opportunity 
to  see  them  paint  or  print  their  tapa^  or  bark 
cloth,  an  occupation  in  which  they  employ  a 
great  deal  of  care  and  patience.  The  pigments 
they  use  arc  derived  from  vegetable  juices,  pre- 
pared with  the  oil  of  the  cocoa-nut.  Their  pen- 
cils are  little  reeds  or  canes  of  bamboo,  at  the 
extremity  of  which  they  carve  out  divers  sorts 
of  flowers.     First  they  tinge  the  cloth  they  moan 


r| 

n 
ni 


TAPA-PAINTIXG. 


76 


to  print,  yellow,  green,  or  some  other  color 
which  forms  the  ground :  then  they  draw  upon 
it  perfectly  straight  lines,  without  any  other 
guide  l)ut  the  eye ;  lastly  they  dip  the  ends  of 
the  banil)oo  sticks  in  paint  of  a  different  tint 
from  the  ground,  and  apply  them  between  the 
dark  or  bright  bars  thus  formed.  This  cloth 
resembles  a  good  deal  our  calicoes  and  printed 
cottons ;  the  oils  with  which  it  is  impregnated 
renders  it  impervious  to  water.  It  is  said  that 
the  natives  of  Atowy  excel  all  the  other  island- 
ers in  the  art  of  painting  the  tapa. 

The  Sandwich-islanders  live  in  villages  of  one 
or  two  hundred  houses  arranged  without  sym- 
metry, or  rather  grouped  together  in  complete 
defiance  of  it.  These  houses  are  constructed  (as 
I  have  before  said)  of  posts  driven  in  the  ground, 
covered  witji  long  dry  grass,  and  walled  with 
matting ;  the  thatched  roof  gives  them  a  sort  of 
resemblance  to  our  Canadian  barns  or  granges. 
The  length  of  each  house  varies  according  to  the 
number  of  the  family  which  occupies  it :  they  are 
not  smoky  like  the  wigwams  of  our  Indians,  the 


'!  . 


'■^  ■!■[ 


76 


FRANCIIERE  S   VOYAGE. 


fireplace  l)oiii^  always  outride  in  the  open  air, 
where  all  tlie  cooking  is  performed.  Ilcnco  their 
dwellings  are  very  clean  and  neat  insude. 

Their  jiirogues  or  canoes  are  extremely  light 
and  neat :  those  which  are  single  have  an  outrig- 
ger, consisting  of  two  curved  pieces  of  timber 
lashed  across  the  bows,  and  touching  the  water 
at  the  distance  of  five  or  six  feet  from  the  side  ; 
another  piece,  turned  up  at  each  extremity,  is 
tied  to  the  end  and  drags  in  the  water,  on  which 
it  acts  like  a  skating  iron  on  the  ice,  and  by  its 
weight  keei)s  the  canoe  in  equilibrium :  without 
that  contrivance  they  would  infalliljly  upset. 
Their  paddles  are  long,  with  a  very  broad  blade. 
All  these  canoes  carry  a  lateen,  or  sprit-sail, 
which  is  made  of  a  mat  of  grass  or  leaves,  ex- 
tremely w^ell  woven. 

I  did  not  remain  long  enough  with  these  peo- 
ple to  acquire  very  extensive  and  exact  notions 
of  their  religion :  I  know  that  they  recognise  a 
Supreme  Being,  whom  they  call  Etoioai/,  and  a 
number  of  inferior  divinities.  Each  village  has 
one  or  more  morais.     These  morais  are  enclo- 


TABOO  —  DRAUr.IITS. 


77 


purcs  which  served  for  cemeteries  ;  in  tlie  middlo 
is  a  temple,  where  the  priests  ahun*  Irave  a  ripjht 
to  cuter:  they  contain  several  idols  of  wood, 
riidely  sculptured.  At  the  feet  of  these  iinaj^es 
arc  deposited,  and  left  to  putrify,  the  olToriugs 
of  the  people,  consistinji^  of  doj^s,  j)ij^s,  fowls, 
vegetables,  &c.  The  respect  of  tlu;sc  savages 
for  their  j)ri(3sts  extends  almost  to  adoration  ; 
they  regard  their  persons  as  sacred,  and  feel  the 
greatest  scruple  in  touching  the  objects,  or  going 
near  the  places,  which  they  have  declared  taboo 
or  forbidden.  The  taboo  has  often  been  usefid 
to  European  navigators,  by  freeing  them  from 
the  importunities  of  the  crowd. 

In  our  ram])les  we  met  groups  playing  at  dif- 
ferent games.  That  of  draughts  appeared  the 
most  common.  The  checker-board  is  very  sim- 
ple, the  squares  being  marked  on  the  ground 
with  a  sharp  stick :  the  men  are  merely  shells  or 
pebbles.  The  game  was  different  from  that 
played  in  civilized  countries,  so  that  we  could 
not  understand  it. 

Although  nature  has  done  almost  everything 


^■•'■vi 


^'-■  l  ^ 


78 


FRANCIIERES   VOYAfiE. 


'   1 


for  the  inhabitants  of  the  Sandwich  islands — 
though  tney  enjoy  a  perpetual  spring,  a  clear 
sky,  a  salubrious  climate,  and  scarcely  any  labor 
is  required  to  produce  the  necessaries  of  life  — 
they  can  not  bo  regarded  as  generally  happ}'' : 
the   artisans    and    producers,   whom    they   call 
Tootoos,  arc  nearly  in  tlie  same  situation  as  the 
Helots  among  the  Lacedemonians,  condemned  to 
labor  almost  incessantly  for  their  lord  or  Eris, 
without  hope  of  battering  their  condition,  and 
even  restricted  in  the  choice  of  their  daily  food.* 
How  has  it  hapi)ened  that  among  a  people  yet  bar- 
barous, where  knowledge  is  nearly  equally  distrib- 
uted, the  class  which  is  beyond  comparison  the 
most  numerous  has  voluntarily  submitted  to  such 
a  humiliating  and  oppressive  yoke  ?     The  Tar- 
tars, though   infmitely  less  numerous   than  the 
Chinese,  have  subjected  them,  because  the  former 
were   warlike   and   the   latter  were   not.     The 
same  thing  has  happened,  no  doubt,  at  remote 

*  Tho  Tootoos  unci  nil  thn  women,  tlio  wives  of  iho  V\\\fr  and 
principal  chiefs  exc'eptetl,  arc  eternally  comlemiu'd  to  the  use  of 
fniitfi  Oiiil  vegetubles;  dogg  and  piga  being  excluaively  rcsorved 
for  tho  tai;le  of  tho  Eris, 


i 


01 
Cl 


SOCIAI,    STATE. 


79 


Hi 


period.^,  in  Poluiul,  mid  other  regions  of  Europe 
luul  Asii'i.     If  moral  causes  are  joined  to  physi- 
cal ones,  the  superiority  of  one  caste  iind   the 
inferiority  of  the  other  will  be  still  more  marked  ; 
it  is  known  that  tlie  natives  of  Ilispaniola,  when 
they  saw  the  Spaniaids  arrive  ou  their  coast,  in 
vessels  of  an  astonishing  size  to  their  ap})rehen- 
sions,  and  heard  them  imitate  the  thunder  with 
their  cannon,  took  them  for  beings  of  a  superior 
nature  to  their  own.     Supposing  that  this  island 
liad   been   extremely  remote    from   every  other 
country,  and  that  the  Spaniards,  after  conquer- 
ing it,  had  held  no  further  communication  with 
any  civilized  land,  at  the  end  of  a  century  or 
two  the  language  and  the  manners  would  have 
assimilated,   but   there   would    have    been   two 
castes,  one  of  lords,  enjoying  all  the  advantages, 
the  other  of  serfs,  charged  with  all   the  burdens. 
This  theory  seems  to  have  been  realized  anciently 
in  Ilindostan ;    but  if  we  must  credit  the  tradi- 
tion of  the  Sandwich-islanders,  their  countrv  was 
originally  peopled  ))y  a  man  and  woman,  who 
caniL  to  Owyhee  in  a  canoe.     Unless,  then,  they 


80 


franchere's  voyage. 


mean  that  tliis  man  and  woman  came  with  their 
slaves,  and  that  the  Eris  are  descended  from  the 
first,  and  the  Tooloos  from  the  hast,  they  oi^ht 
to  attribute  to  each  other  the  same  origin,  and 
consequently  regard  each  other  as  equals,  and 
even  as  brothers,  according  to  the  manner  of 
thinking  that  prevails  among  savages.  The 
cause  of  the  slavery  of  women  among  most  bar- 
barous tribes,  is  m.orc  easily  explained :  the  men 
have  subjected  them  by  the  right  of  the  strongest, 
if  ignorance  and  superstition  have  not  caused 
them  to  be  previously  regarded  as  beings  of  an 
inferior  nature,  made  to  be  servants  and  not 
companions.* 

*  Some  Indian  tril)P9  think  that  women  liuvo  no  souls,  but  die 
!iltog(^ther  like  the  bnitos ;  othors  assign  tluMn  a  diffiTont  para- 
di3o  from  that  of  men,  which  iiuleeil  they  miglit  have  reason  to 
prefer  for  theniselvefl,  unless  their  relative  condition  were  to  ba 
amelioratod  in  the  next  world. 


I 

■I 


WEir.II   ANCHOR. 


81 


CHAPTER   VI. 

Doparturf^  from  Wuhoo. —  Storm. —  Arrival  at  tlio  Month  of  tho 
Columbia. —  RockU'ss  OnU-r  of  tlio  Ciiptnin. —  Ditriciilfy  of  vhc 
Entnmci'. —  rt-riloug  Situation  of  tho  Ship. —  Uuhaj)py  Futc  of 
a  part  of  tho  Crow  and  Poople  of  tho  Expedition. 

Having  taken  on  board  a  liundrcd  head  of  live 
hogs,  some  goats,  two  sheep,  a  quantity  of  poul- 
try, two  boat-loads  of  sugar-cane,  to  feed  the 
hogs,  as  many  more  of  yams,  taro,  and  other 
vegetables,  and  all  our  water-casks  being  snugly 
stowed,  wc  weighed  anchor  on  the  28th  of  Feb- 
ruary, sixteen  days  after  our  arrival  at  Karaka- 
koua. 

"We  left   another   man   (Edward   Aymes)   at 

Wahoo.     He  belonged  to  a  boat's  crew  which 

was  scut  ashovn  fop  a  load  cf  sugar  canes.     By 

the  time  tho  boat  was  loaded  bv  tlio  natives  the 

ebb  of  tho  tide  had  left  her  agroui:d,  and  Aymes 

4* 


82 


FUANCIIERKS   VOY-UIE. 


k^'W^ 


11 


asked  leave  of  the  coxswain  to  ^alic  a  stioll,  en- 
gaging to  be  back  for  the  iiood.  Leave  was 
granted  him,  but  during  liis  absence,  tlic  tide 
having  come  in  suflicienlly  to  float  the  boat, 
James  Thorn,  the  coxswain,  did  not  wait  for  tlic 
young  sailor,  who  was  thus  left  Ixjliind.  The 
captain  immediately  missed  the  man,  and,  on 
being  ii\formed  that  he  had  strolled  away  from 
the  boat  on  leave,  flew  into  a  violent  passion. 
Aymes  soon  made  his  appearance  alongside, 
having  hired  some  natives  to  take  him  on  board ; 
on  perceiving  him,  the  captain  ordered  him  to 
stay  in  the  long-boat,  then  lashed  to  the  side  with 
its  load  of  sugar-cane.  The  captain  then  himself 
got  into  the  boat,  and,  takin^it  one  of  the  canes, 
beat  the  poor  follow  most  unmercifully  with  it ; 
after  which  not  satisfied  with  this  act  of  brutal- 
ity, he  seized  his  victim  and  threw  him  over- 
board !  Aymes,  however,  being  an  excellent 
swimmer,  made  for  the  nearest  nati^■e  canoe,  of 
which  there  were,  as  usual,  a  great  number 
around  the  ship.  The  islanders,  more  humane 
than  our  captain,  took  in  the  poor  fellow,  who, 


.ifi*s- 


NATIVE  MALICE. 


88 


in  spite  of  his  ontn-atios  to  bo  received  on  bornl, 
cuuld  only  succeed  in  getting  \u^  clothes,  which 
were  thrown  into  the  canoe.     At  parting,  he  tol ' 
Captain  Thorn  that  he  knew  enougli  of  the  laws 
of  his  country,  to  obtain  redress,  should  they 
ever  meet  in  the  territory  of  the  American  Union. 
While  we  were  getting  under  sail,  Mr.  M'Kay 
pointed  out  to  the  captain  tliat  there  was  one 
water-cask  empty,  and  proposed  sending  it  ashore 
to  bo  filled,  as  the  great  number  of  live  animals 
we  had  on  l)oard  retiuired  a  large  quantity  of 
fresh  water.     The  captain,  who  feared  that  some 
of  the  men  would  desert  if  he  sent  them  ashore, 
made  an  observation  to  tliat  effect  in  answer  to 
Mr.  M'Kay,  who  then  proposed  sending  me  on  a 
canoe  which  lay  alongside,  to  fill  Vlq  cask  in 
question :  tliis  was  agreed  to  by  the  captaii  ,  and 
I  took  the  cask  accordingly  to  tlie  nearest  spiing, 
Having  filled  it,  not  without  some  dilficulty,  the 
islanders  seeking  to  detain  me,  and  I  perceiving 
that  they  had  given  me  some  gourds  full  of  salt 
water,  I  was  forced   also  to  demand  a  doiiltle 
pirogue   (for  the  canoe  which  had  brought  the 


i  mi: 

SI  I      , 


84 


FIlANrilKIlK  S    VOYACE. 


ii 


empty  cask,  was  foiiiid  iiuidoquato  to  carry  a  full 
ono),  llie  ship  hcinji;  already  niidcn'  full  sail  and 
gaining:  an  oflinpr.  As  the  natives  would  not  lend 
a  liand  to  procure  wliat  1  wanted,  I  thouprht  it 
necessary  to  liave  recourse  to  the  kinji;,  and  in 
fact  did  so.  For  seeing;  the  vessel  so  far  at  sea, 
with  what  I  knew  of  tlic  captain's  disposition,  I 
began  to  fear  tliat  lie  had  formed  the  plan  of 
leaving  me  on  the  island.  My  fears,  nevertlie- 
less  were  ill-founded ;  the  vessel  made  a  tack 
toward  the  sliore,  to  nu'  great  joy ;  and  a  doul)lc 
pirogue  was  furnished  me,  through  the  good 
offices  of  our  young  friend  tlu)  French  scliool- 
master,  to  return  on  board  with  my  cask. 

Our  deck  was  now  as  miu'li  encumbered  as 
when  wo  left  New  York  ;  for  we  had  boon  obliged 
to  place  our  live  animals  at  the  gangways,  and 
to  board  over  their  pens,  on  which  it  was  neces- 
sary to  pass,  to  work  ship.  Our  own  numbei'S 
\\  ^re  also  augmented  ;  for  we  had  taken  a  dozen 
islanders  for  the  service  of  our  intended  com- 
mercial establishment.  Their  term  of  engage- 
ment was  three  years,  during  which  we  were  to 


^v..   ■ 


A    C,\LK. 


85 


«• 


food  and  clothe  them,  and  at  its  cx[)iration  they 
were  to  receive  a  hundred  dollars  in  merchan- 
dise. The  captain  had  shipped  another  dozen 
as  hands  on  the  coasting  voyage.  These  people, 
who  make  very  good  sailors,  were  eager  to  be 
talcen  into  employment,  and  we  might  easily  have 
carried  off  a  much  greater  number. 

"Wo  had  contrary  winds  till  the  2d  of  March, 
when,  having  doubled  the  western  extremity  of 
the  island,  we  made  northing,  and  lost  sight  of 
these  smiling  and  temperate  countries,  to  enter 
very  soon  a  colder  region  and  less  worthy  of 
being  inhabited.  The  winds  were  variable,  and 
nothing  extraordinary  happened  to  us  till  the 
l«)th,  when,  being  arrived  at  the  latitude  of  35° 
11'  north,  and  in  138^  16'  of  west  longitude, 
the  wind  shifted  all  of  a  sudden  to  the  S.  S.  W., 
and  blew  with  such  violence,  that  we  were  forced 
to  strike  to]>gallant  masts  and  top-sails,  and  run 
before  the  gale  with  a  double  reef  in  our  foresail. 
The  rolling  of  the  vessel  was  greater  than  in  all 
the  gales  we  had  experienced  previously.  Nev- 
ertheless, as  we  made  great  headway,  and  were 


^ 


80 


FKAXCIIKIIES    VOVACK. 


i 


approaching  the  coutiiiciit,  tlio  captain  l)y  way 
of  precaution,  lay  to  for  two  nightrf  successively. 
At  last,  on  the  22cl,  in  the  morning,  we  saw  tlie 
land.  Althougli  we  had  not  been  a])le  to  take 
any  observations  for  several  days,  nevertheless, 
by  the  appearance  of  tlic  coast,  we  perceived  that 
wo  were  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  Columbia, 
and  were  not  more  than  tlirco  miles  from  land. 
The  breakers  formed  hy  the  bar  at  the  entrance 
of  that  river,  and  whicli  we  could  distinguish 
from  the  sliip,  left  us  no  room  to  doubt  tliat  wo 
had  arrived  at  last  at  the  end  of  our  voyage. 

The  wind  was  blowing  in  heavy  squalls,  and 
the  sea  ran  very  higli :  in  spite  of  tliat,  the  cap- 
tain caused  a  boat  to  be  lowered,  and  Mr.  Fox 
(first  mate),  Basilo  Lapensec,  Ignace  Lapensee, 
Jos.  Nadeau,  and  John  Martin,  got  into  her, 
taking  some  provisions  and  firearms,  with  orders 
to  sound  tlie  channel  and  report  themselves  on 
board  as  soon  as  possible.     The  boat  was  not 

\\\.  or  a  mast,  but 


supplied 


good 


one  of  the  partners  gave  Mr.  Fox  a  pair  of  bed 
sheets  to  serve  for  the  former.     Messrs  M'Kay 


CAPE   DlSAri'OlNTMKNT. 


87 


and  M'Duugall  could  not  help  rciaonstrating 
■\vitli  llio  captain  on  the  inipnulcnce  of  seiuliii<ij 
the  boat  ashore  in  sucii  wcatlicr ;  but  they  could 
not  move  his  obstinacy.  The  boat's  crew  pulled 
away  from  the  ship  ;  alas  !  we  were  never  to  see 
her  aii'ain ;  and  we  already  had  a  fci'oboding  of 
licr  fate.  The  next  day  the  wind  seemed  to 
moderate,  and  we  approached  very  near  the 
coast.  The  cm  ranee  of  the  river,  which  wo 
j)lainly  distinguished  with  the  naked  eye,  ap- 
peared but  a  confused  and  agitated  sea :  the 
waves,  impelled  by  a  wind  from  the  offing,  broke 
upon  the  bar,  and  left  no  perceptible  passage. 
AVc  got  no  sign  of  the  boat ;  and  toward  evcniug, 
for  our  own  safety,  we  hauled  oft'  to  sea,  with  all 
countenances  extremely  sad,  not  excepting  the 
captain's,  who  appeared  to  me  as  much  afliicted  as 
the  rest,  and  who  had  reason  to  be  so.  During 
tlie  night,  tlie  wind  fell,  the  clouds  dispersed, 
and  the  sky  ])ccamc  serene.  On  the  morning  of 
the  24th,  we  found  that  the  curr'^nt  had  carried 
us  near  the  coast  again,  and  we  dropped  anchor 
in  fourteen  fathoms  water,  north  of  Cape  Disap- 


^rj 


!i 


88 


FIIAXCIIKUKS    VOYACE. 


poiiitmciit.  Tlio  roiip  (Vail  is  not  no  sniiliii.!^  by 
a  prroat  doal  at  tliiH  ancliorafro,  as  at  tlic  Sand- 
wicli  islands,  llic  coast  ofloriiiiz;  little  to  the  oyc 
but  a  continuous  rauuo  of  liigh  mountains  covered 
with  snow. 

AltliouLdi  it  was  calm,  the  sea  c-Mitinucd  to 
break  over  the  reef  with  violence,  bctwetMi  Cape 
Disappointment  and  Point  Adams.  AVe  sent  Mr. 
IMumfofd  (the  second  mate)  to  sound  a  ])assa,iro ; 
but  havin<5  found  the  breakers  too  heavy,  he  re- 
turned on  board  al)out  mid-day.  Messrs.  M'Kay 
and  D.  Stuart  oflercd  their  services  to  pro  asliorc, 
to  search  for  the  boat's  crew  who  left  on  the  22d  ; 
but  they  couhl  not  fnid  a  ))lace  to  land.  They 
saw  Indians,  who  nuide  signs  to  tlieni  to  pull 
round  the  cape,  but  they  deemed  it  more  prudent 
to  return  to  tlu^  vessel.  Soon  after  their  return, 
a  gentle  iM-ecze  sprang  up  from  the  westward,  we 
raised  anclior,  and  ap])roached  the  entrance  of 
tlie  river.  Mr.  Aikin  was  then  despatched  in 
the  piiHiace,  accompanied  by  .John  Coles  (sail- 
maker),  Stephen  Weeks  (armorer),  and  two 
Sandwich-islanders  ;  and  we  followed  under  easy 


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CRITICAL   SITUATION. 


89 


sail.  Another  boat  had  been  Hcnt  out  before  this 
one,  but  the  captain  ju(l<^ing  that  she  bore  too  far 
south,  made  her  a  signal  to  return.  Mr.  Aikin 
not  fniding  less  tlian  four  fathoms,  we  followed  him 
and  advanced  between  the  breakers,  with  a  favora- 
ble wind,  so  that  we  passed  the  boat  ou  oui'  star- 
board, within  pistol-shot.  We  made  signs  to  her 
to  return  on  board,  but  she  could  not  accomplish 
it ;  the  ebb  tide  carried  her  witli  such  rapidity 
that  in  a  few  minutes  we  had  lost  sight  of  her 
amidst  the  tremendous  breakers  that  surrounded 
us.  It  was  near  nightfall,  the  wind  began  to  give 
way,  and  the  water  was  so  low  with  the  ebb,  that 
we  struck  six  or  seven  times  with  violence :  the 
breakers  brolvc  over  the  ship  and  threatened  to 
submerge  her.  At  last  we  passed  from  two  and 
three  quarters  fathoms  of  water  to  seven,  where 
we  were  obliged  to  drop  anchor,  the  wind  having 
entirely  failed  us.  We  were  far,  however,  from 
being  out  of  danger,  and  the  darkness  came  to 
add  to  the  horror  of  our  situation :  our  vessel, 
though  at  anchor,  threatened  to  be  carried  away 
every  moment  by  the  tide ;  the  best  bower  was 


1)0 


KHANCHERK  S    VOYACK. 


1^: 


let  go,  and  it  kept  two  men  at  the  wheel  to  hold 
her  head  in  tlie  riii'ht  direction.  However,  Prov- 
idence came  to  our  succor :  the  flood  succeeded 
to  the  cbl),  and  the  wind  rising  out  of  tlie  oiling, 
wc  weighed  both  ancliors,  in  spite  of  the  ol)SCu- 
rity  of  the  night,  and  succeeded  in  gaining  a  little 
bay  or  cove,  formed  at  the  entrance  of  the  river 
by  Cape  Disappointment,  and  called  Baker'' s  Bay^ 
where  we  found  a  good  anchorage.  It  was  about 
midnight,  and  all  retired  to  take  a  little  rest : 
the  crew,  above  all,  had  great  need  of  it.  Wo 
wcie  fortunate  to  be  in  a  place  of  safety,  for  the 
wind  rose  higher  and  higher  during  the  rest  of 
the  night,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  25th  allowed 
us  to  see  that  this  ocean  is  not  always  pacific. 

Some  natives  visited  us  this  day,  bringing  with 
them  beaver-skins  ;  but  the  inquietude  caused  in 
our  minds  by  the  loss  of  two  boats'  crews,  for 
whom  w^e  washed  to  make  search,  did  not  permit 
us  to  think  of  traffic.  We  tried  to  make  the 
savages  comprehend,  by  signs,  that  we  had  sent 
a  boat  ashore  three  days  previous,  and  that  we 
liad  no  news  of  her;   but  they  seemed  not  to 


us. 
but  tb 
tliem 
their 


m 


STOUY   OF    WEEK3. 


91 


understand  us.  The  captain,  accompanied  by 
some  of  our  gentlemen,  landed,  and  they  set 
themselves  to  search  for  our  missint^  people,  in 
tlie  woods,  and  along  the  shore  N.  TV.  of  the 
(\ape.  After  a  few  hours  wc  saw  the  captain 
return  with  Weeks,  one  of  the  crew  of  the  last 
boat  sent  out.  He  was  stark  naked,  and  after 
being  clothed,  and  receiving  some  nourishment, 
gave  us  an  account  of  his  almost  miraculous 
escape  from  the  waves  on  the  preceding  night, 
in  nearly  the  following  terms  :  — 

"After  you  had  passed  our  boat,"  said  he, 
"  the  breakers  caused  bv  the  meeting  of  the  wind 

»/  CD 

roll  and  ebb-tide,  became  a  great  deal  heavier 
than  when  wc  entered  the  river  with  the  flood. 
The  boat,  for  want  of  a  rudder,  became  very 
hard  to  manage,  and  wc  let  her  drift  at  the 
mercy  of  the  tide,  till,  after  having  escaped  sev- 
eral surges,  one  struck  us  midship  and  capsized 
us.  I  lost  sight  of  Mr.  Aiken  and  John  Coles : 
but  tlie  two  islanders  were  close  by  me ;  I  saw 
them  stripping  off  their  clothes,  and  I  followed 
their  example ;   and  seeing  the  pinnace  within 


**•«•■ 


92 


franctieue's  voyage. 


my  reach,  kcol  upward,  I  seized  it ;  the  two  na- 
tives caine  to  my  assistance ;  we  riglited  her, 
and  by  sudden  jerks  threw  out  so  mucli  of  the 
water  that  she  would  hold  a  man :  one  of  the 
natives  jumped  in,  and,  l>ailing  with  his  two 
hands,  succeeded  in  a  short  time  in  emptying 
her.  The  other  native  found  the  oars,  and  about 
dark  we  were  all  three  embarked.  Tiie  tide 
having  now  carried  us  outside  the  breakers,  I 
endeavored  to  persuade  my  companions  in  mis- 
fortune to  row,  but  they  were  so  benumbed  witli 
cold  that  they  absolutely  refused.  I  well  knew 
that  without  clothing,  and  exposed  to  the  rigor 
of  the  air,  I  must  keep  in  constant  exercise. 
Seeing  besides  that  the  night  was  advancing,  and 
having  no  resource  but  the  little  strength  left 
me,  I  set  to  work  sculling,  and  pushed  off  the 
bar,  but  so  as  not  to  be  carried  out  too  far  to 
sea.  About  midnight,  one  of  my  companions 
died :  the  other  threw  himself  upon  the  body  of 
his  comrade,  and  I  could  not  persuade  him  to 
abandon  it.  Daylight  appeared  at  last;  and, 
being  near  the  shore,  I  headed  in  for  it,  and 


■  ? 


if 


SEARCH. 


98 


)  na- 

her, 

,f  the 

f  the 

3    two 

about 
c  tide 
Lcrs,  I 
n  mis- 
id  with 
L  knew 
e  rigor 
:ercise. 
ng,  and 
,th  left 
off  the 
)  far  to 
panions 
)ody  of 
him  to 
t;   and, 
it,  and 


r 


arrived,  thank  God,  safe  and  sound,  through  the 
breakers,  on  a  sandy  beach.  I  helped  the  isl- 
ander, wlio  yet  gave  some  signs  of  life,  to  get  out 
of  the  boat,  and  we  both  took  to  the  woods  ;  but, 
seeing  that  he  was  not  able  to  follow  me,  I  left 
him  to  his  bad  fortune,  and,  pursuing  a  l)caten 
path  that  I  perceived,  I  found  myself,  to  my 
great  astonishment,  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours, 
near  the  vessel." 

The  gentlemen  who  went  ashore  with  the  cap- 
tain divided  themselves  into  three  parties,  to 
search  for  the  native  whom  Weeks  had  left  at  the 
entrance  of  the  forest ;  l)ut,  after  scouring  the 
woods  and  the  point  of  the  cape  all  day,  they 
came  on  board  in  the  evening  without  having 
found  him. 


94 


FKANCIIERE  S   VOYAGE. 


CHAPTER  YII. 

Regrets  of  the  Author  at  the  Loss  of  his  Companions. —  Obse- 
quies of  a  Sandwich  Islander. —  First  stops  in  the  Formation 
of  the  intended  Establishment. —  New  Alarm. —  Encanip- 
mcnt. 

The  narrative  of  Weeks  informed  us  of  the 
d«5ath  of  three  of  our  companions,  and  we  could 
cni  doubt  that  the  five  others  had  met  a  similar 
fate.  This  loss  of  eight  of  our  number,  in  two 
days,  before  we  had  set  foot  on  shore,  was  a  bad 
augury,  and  was  sensibly  felt  by  all  of  us.  In 
the  course  of  so  long  a  passage,  the  habit  of  see- 
ing each  other  every  day,  the  participation  of  the 
same  cares  and  dangers,  and  confineme^^t  to  the 
same  narrow  limits,  had  formed  between  all  the 
passengers  a  connection  that  could  not  be  broken, 
above  all  in  a  manner  so  sad  and  so  unlooked 
for,  without  making  us  feel  a  void  like  that 


THE    LAPENSIE. 


-OV)se- 
nmiion 
ncamp- 


)f  the 
could 
imilar 
n  two 
a  bad 
5.    In 
f  scc- 
of  the 
to  the 
Hi  the 
roken, 
ooked 
e  that 


which  is  experienced  in  a  well-regulated  and 
loving  family,  when  it  is  suddenly  deprived  by 
death,  of  the  presence  of  one  of  its  cherished 
members.  We  had  left  New  York,  for  the  most 
part  strangers  to  one  another ;  but  arrived  at  the 
river  Columbia  we  were  all  friends,  and  regard- 
ed each  other  almost  as  brothers.  We  regretted 
especially  the  two  brothers  Lapcr.see  and  Joseph 
Nadeau :  these  young  men  liad  been  in  an  cs- 
])ccial  manner  recommended  by  their  respectable 
parents  in  Canada  to  the  care  of  Mr.  M'Kay ; 
and  had  acquired  l)y  their  good  conduct  the 
esteem  of  the  captain,  of  the  crew,  and  of  all  the 
passengers.  Tiie  brothers  Lapcnsee  were  cour- 
ageous and  willing,  never  flinching  in  the  hour  of 
danger,  and  had  become  as  good  seamen  as  any 
on  board.  Messrs  Fox  and  Aikin  were  both 
highly  regarded  by  all ;  the  loss  of  Mr.  Fox, 
al)ove  all,  who  was  endeared  to  every  one  by  his 
gentlemanly  behavior  and  affability,  would  have 
been  severely  regretted  at  any  time,  but  it  was 
doubly  so  in  the  present  conjuncture :  this  gentle- 
man, who  had  already  made  a  voyage   to   the 


96 


franchere's  voyaoe. 


Northwest,  could  have  rendered  important  ser- 
vices to  the  captain  and  to  the  company.  The 
preceding  days  had  been  days  of  apprehension 
and  of  uneasiness ;  this  was  one  of  sorrow  and 
mourning. 

The  following  day,  the  same  gentlemen  who 
had  volunteered  their  services  to  seek  for  the 
missing  islander,  resumed  their  labors,  and  very 
feoon  after  they  left  us,  wo  perceived  a  great  fire 
kindled  at  the  verge  of  the  woods,  over  against 
the  ship.  I  was  sent  in  a  l)oat  and  arrived  at 
the  fire.  It  was  our  gentlemen  who  had  kindled 
it,  to  restore  animation  to  the  poor  islander, 
whom  they  had  at  last  found  under  the  rocks, 
half  dead  with  cold  and  fatigue,  his  legs  swollen 
and  his  feet  bleeding.  We  clothed  him,  and 
brought  him  on  board,  where,  by  our  care,  wo 
succeeded  in  restoring  him  to  life. 

Toward  evening,  a  number  of  the  Sandwich- 
islanders,  provided  with  the  necessary  utensils, 
and  offerings  consisting  of  biscuit,  lard,  and  to- 
bacco, went  ashore,  to  pay  the  last  duties  to  their 
compatriot,  who  died  in  Mr.  Aikin's  boat,  on  the 


pn 
selJ 
lofj 


FUXERAL    CEriKMr,.,Y. 


07 


niplit  of  the  24th.  Mr.  Pillnt  auA  I  went  with 
them,  and  witncs.sed  the  obr^oquie.^,  which  took 
place  ill  the  manner  IbUowlnp;.  Arrived  at  the 
spot  where  the  body  had  been  hung  upon  a  tree 
to  preserve  it  from  the  wolves,  the  natives  dug  a 
grave  in  the  sand ;  tlien  taking  down  the  body, 
and  stretching  it  alongside  the  pit,  they  placed 
the  biscuit  under  one  of  the  arms,  a  piece  of  pork 
beneath  the  other,  and  the  tobacco  beneath  tlic 
chin  and  the  genital  parts.  Thus  provided  for 
the  journey  to  the  other  world,  the  body  was  de- 
posited in  the  grave  and  covered  with  sand  and 
stones.  All  the  countrymen  of  the  dead  man 
then  knelt  on  either  side  of  the  grave,  in  a  double 
row,  with  tlieir  faces  to  the  east,  except  one  of 
them  wdio  officiated  as  priest ;  the  latter  went  to 
tlie  margin  of  the  sea,  and  having  filled  his  hat 
with  water,  sprinkled  the  two  rows  of  islanders, 
and  recited  a  sort  of  prayer,  to  which  the  others 
responded,  nearly  as  we  do  in  the  litanies.  That 
prayer  ended,  they  rose  and  returned  to  tlie  ves- 
sel, looking  neither  to  the  right  liand  iior  to  tlie 
left.     As  eveiy  one  of  them  appeared  to  me  fa- 


98 


FRANCIIERE'a   VOYAGE. 


miliar  -with  tl;o  part  he  performed,  it  is  more  than 
probable  that  the/  observed,  as  far  as  circum- 
stances permitted,  the  ceremonies  practised  in 
their  country  on  like  occasions.  Wo  all  returned 
on  board  about  sundown. 

The  next  day,  the  27th,  desirous  of  clearing 
the  gangways  of  the  live  stock,  we  sent  some 
men  on  shore  to  construct  a  pen,  and  soon  after 
landed  about  fifty  hogs,  committing  them  to  the 
care  of  one  of  the  hands.  On  the  30th,  the  long 
boat  was  manned,  armed  and  provisioned,  and 
the  captain,  with  Messrs.  M'Kay  and  D.  Stuart, 
and  some  of  the  clerks,  embarked  on  it,  to  ascend 
the  river  and  choose  an  eligible  spot  for  our  tra- 
ding establishment.  Messrs.  Ross  and  Fillet  left 
at  the  same  time,  to  run  down  south,  and  try  to 
obtain  intelligence  of  Mr.  Fox  and  his  crew.  In 
the  meantime,  having  reached  some  of  the  goods 
most  at  hand,  we  commenced,  with  the  natives 
who  came  every  day  to  the  vessel,  a  trade  for 
beaver-skins,  and  sea-otter  stones. 

Messrs.  Ross  and  Fillet  returned  on  board  on 
the  let  of  April,  without  having  learned  anything 


alarmtntt  report. 


99 


respecting  Mr.  Fox  and  his  party.  They  did  not 
even  perceive  along  the  beach  any  vestiges  of 
the  l)oat.  The  natives  who  occui)y  Point  Adafns, 
and  who  are  called  Clatsops,  received  onr  young 
gentlemen  very  amicably  and  hospitably.  The 
captain  and  his  companions  also  returned  on  tho 
4th,  without  ha\ing  decided  on  a  position  for  the 
establishment,  finding  none  which  appeared  to 
them  eligible.  It  was  consequeitly  resolved  to 
explore  the  south  ])ank,  and  Messrs.  M'Doucral 
and  D.  Stuart  departed  on  that  expedition  tho 
next  day,  promising  to  return  by  the  7th. 

The  7th  came,  and  these  gentlemen  did  not 
return.  It  rained  almost  all  day.  The  day 
after,  some  natives  came  on  board,  and  reported 
that  Messrs.  M'Dougal  and  Stuart  had  capsized 
the  evening  before  in  crossing  the  bay.  This 
news  at  first  alarmed  us ;  and,  if  it  had  been 
verified,  would  have  given  the  finishing  blow  to 
our  discouragement.  Still,  as  the  weather  was 
excessively  bad,  and  we  did  not  repose  entire 
faith  in  the  story  of  the  natives — whom,  more- 
over, we  might  not  have  perfectly  understood — 


100 


franciiere's  voyage. 


we  remained  in  suspense  till  the  lOtli.  On  the 
morning  of  that  day,  -we  were  preparing  to  send 
some  of  the  people  in  search  of  our  two  gen- 
tlemen, when  we  perceived  two  large  canoes, 
full  of  Indians,  coming  toward  the  vessel :  they 
were  of  the  Chinook  village,  which  was  situated 
at  the  foot  of  a  bluff  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river,  and  were  bringing  back  Messrs.  M'Dougal 
and  Stuart.  Wo  made  known  to  these  gentle- 
men the  report  wo  had  heard  on  the  Stli  from 
the  natives,  and  they  informed  us  that  it  had 
been  in  fact  well  foimded ;  that  on  the  7th,  de- 
sirous of  reaching  the  ship  agreeably  to  their 
promise;,  they  had  quitted  Chinook  point,  in  spite 
of  the  remonstrances  of  the  chief,  Conicomli/, 
who  sought  to  detain  them  by  pointing  out  the 
danger  to  which  they  would  expose  themselves 
in  crossing  the  bay  in  such  a  heavy  sea  as  it 
was ;  that  thev  had  scarcely  made  more  than  a 
mile  and  a  half  before  a  huge  wave  broke  over 
their  boat  and  capsized  it ;  that  the  Indians, 
aware  of  tlie  danger  to  which  they  were  exposed, 
had  followed  them,  and  that,  but  for  their  assist- 


HUMANE    NATIVES. 


101 


ancc,  j\[r.  M'Dougal,  who  could  not  swim,  would 
inevitably  have  been  drowned ;  that,  afl  .  the 
Cliinooks  liad  kindled  a  large  fire  and  dried 
tlieir  clothes,  they  liad  been  conducted  ])y  them 
back  to  their  villag'e,  where  the  principal  chief 
had  received  them  with  all  imaginable  hospital- 
ity, regaling  them  with  every  delicacy  his  wig- 
wam alTorded  ;  that,  in  fine,  if  they  had  got  back 
safe  and  sound  to  the  vessel,  it  was  to  the  timely 
succor  and  humane  cares  of  the  Indians  whom  wc 
saw  before  us  that  they  owed  it.  We  liberally 
rewarded  these  generous  children  of  the  forest, 
and  they  returned  home  well  satisfied. 

This  last  survey  was  also  fruitless,  as  Messrs. 
M'Dougal  and  Stuart  did  not  find  an  advan- 
tageous site  to  build  upon.  But,  as  the  captain 
wished  to  take  advantage  of  the  fine  season  to 
pursue  his  traffic  with  the  natives  along  the 
N.  W.  coast,  it  was  resolved  to  establish  our- 
selves on  Point  Georf^e,  situated  on  the  south 
bank,  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  from  our 
present  anchorage.  Accordingly,  we  embarked 
on  the  12th,  in  the  long-boat,  to  tliq  number  of 


i1 


102 


franchere's  voyage. 


'  I 


twelve,  furnished  with  tools,  and  with  provisions 
for  a  week.  We  landed  at  the  bottom  of  a  sm  xU 
bay,  where  we  formed  a  sort  of  encampment. 
The  sprhig,  usually  so  tardy  in  this  latitude,  was 
already  far  advanced ;  the  foliage  was  budding, 
and  the  earth  was  clothing  itself  with  verdure ; 
the  weather  was  superb,  and  all  nature  smiled. 
AVe  imagined  ourselves  in  the  garden  of  Eden ; 
the  wild  forests  seemed  to  us  delightful  groves, 
and  the  leaves  transformed  to  brilliant  flowers. 
No  doubt,  the  pleasure  of  finding  ourselves  at 
the  end  of  our  voyage,  and  liberated  from  the 
ship,  made  things  appear  to  us  a  great  deal  more 
beautiful  than  they  really  were.  Be  that  as  it 
may,  we  set  ourselves  to  work  with  enthusiasm, 
and  cleared,  in  a  few  days,  a  point  of  land  of  its 
under-brush,  and  of  the  huge  trunks  of  pine-trees 
that  covered  it,  which  we  rolled,  half-burnt,  down 
the  bank.  The  vessel  came  to  moor  near  our 
encampment,  and  the  trade  went  on.  The  na- 
tives visited  us  constantly  and  in  great  num  'Ors  ; 
some  to  trade,  others  to  gratify  their  curiosity, 
or  to  purloin  some  little  articles  if  they  found 


OTTR   SCHOONER. 


103 


it 


5in, 


its 


an  opportunity.  We  landed  the  frame  timbers 
which  we  had  brought,  ready  cut  for  the  pur- 
pose, in  the  vessel ;  and  by  the  end  of  April, 
with  the  aid  of  the  ship-carpenters,  John  Weeks 
and  Johann  Koaster,  we  had  laid  the  keel  of  a 
coasting-schooner  of  about  thirty  tons. 


)wn 


our 


na- 


^rs 


pty, 

lund 


104 


FRANCHERE'S  VOYAGE. 


CHAPTER  YIII. 

Voynfjo   up  the   River. —  Doscriinioii  of  the  Counti-y. —  Meeting 

with  strange  Indians. 

The  Indians  having  inibrmcd  us  that  above 
certain  rapids,  there  was  an  establishment  of 
white  men,  we  doubted  not  that  it  was  a  trading 
post  of  the  Northwest  Company ;  and  to  make 
sure  of  it,  we  procured  a  large  canoe  and  a  guide, 
and  set  out,  on  the  2d  of  May,  Messrs  M'Kay, 
R.  Stuart,  Montigny,  and  I,  with  a  sufficient 
number  of  hands.  We  first  passed  a  lofty  head- 
land, that  seemed  at  a  distance  to  be  detached 
from  the  main,  and  to  which  we  gave  the  name 
of  Tongue  Point.  Here  the  river  gains  a  width 
of  some  nine  or  ten  miles,  and  keeps  it  for  about 
twelve  miles  up.  The  left  bank,  which  we  were 
coasting,  being  concealed  by  little  low  islands, 


Pf'KXERY. 


lor^ 


hcis, 


\vc  encamped  for  the  night  on  one  of  them,  at  the 
village  of  Wahka//kum,  to  wliich  our  guide  be- 
longed. 

"We  continued  our  journey  on  the  3d :  the  river 
narrows  considerably,  at  about  thirty  miles  from 
its  mouth,  and  is  obstructed  with  islands,  which 
are  thickly  covered  with  the  willow,  poplar,  al- 
der, and  ash.  These  islands  are,  without  excei> 
tion,  uninhabited  and  uninhabitable,  being  nothing 
but  swamps,  and  entirely  overflowed  in  the 
months  of  June  and  July ;  as  we  understood  from 
Coalpo,  our  guide,  who  appeared  to  be  an  intel- 
ligent man.  In  proportion  as  we  advanced,  we 
saw  the  high  mountains  capped  with  snow,  which 
form  the  chief  and  majestic  feature,  though  a 
stern  one,  of  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  for  some 
distance  from  its  mouth,  recede,  and  give  place 
to  a  country  of  moderate  elevation,  and  rising  am- 
phitheatrically  from  the  margin  of  the  stream. 
The  river  narrows  to  a  mile  or  thereabouts ;  the 
forest  is  less  dense,  and  patches  of  green  prairie 
are  seen.     We  passed  a  large  village  on  the  south 

bank,  called  Kreluit,  above  which  is  a  fine  forest 

5* 


«IV 


106 


FIIANCIIERES   VOYAGE. 


01  oaks ;  and  encamped  for  tlic  night,  on  a  low 
point,  at  the  foot  of  an  isolated  rock,  about  ono 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  liigh.  This  rock  appeared 
to  me  remarkable  on  account  of  its  situation,  re- 
posing in  the  midst  of  a  low  and  swampy  ground, 
as  if  it  had  been  dropped  from  the  clouds,  and 
seeming  to  have  no  connection  with  the  neigh- 
boring mountains..  On  a  cornice  or  shelving  pro- 
jection about  thirty  feet  from  its  base,  the  na- 
tives of  the  adjacent  villages  deposite  their  dead, 
in  canoes ;  and  it  is  the  same  rock  to  which,  for 
this  reason,  Lieutenant  Broughton  gave  the  name 
of  Mount  Coffin. 

On  the  4th,  in  the  morning,  we  arrived  at  a 
large  village  of  the  same  name  as  that  which  we 
had  passed  the  evening  before,  Kreluit,  and  we 
landed  to  obtain  information  respecting  a  con- 
siderable stream,  which  here  discharges  into  the 
Columbia,  and  respecting  its  resources  for  the 
hunter  and  trader  in  furs.  It  comes  from  the 
north,  and  is  called  Coivlitzk  ^^y  the  natives. 
Mr.  M'Kay  embarked  with  Mr.  de  Montigny  and 
two  Indians,  in  a  small  canoe,  to  examine  the 


WAR-CANOES. 


107 


course  of  this  river,  a  certain  distance  up.  On 
entering  the  stream,  they  saw  a  great  number  of 
birds,  which  they  took  at  first  for  turkeys,  so 
much  they  resembled  them,  but  which  were  only 
a  kind  of  carrion  eagles,  vulgarly  called  turkey- 
buzzards.  We  were  not  a  little  astonished  to 
see  Mr.  de  Montigny  return  on  foot  and  alone  ; 
he  soon  informed  us  of  the  reason :  having  as- 
cended the  Kowlitzk  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  on 
rounding  a  bend  of  the  stream,  they  suddenly 
came  in  view  of  about  twe:ity  canoes,  full  of  In- 
dians, who  had  made  a  rush  upon  them  with  the 
most  frightful  yells ;  the  two  natives  and  the 
guide  who  conducted  their  little  canoe,  retreated 
with  the  utmost  precipitancy,  but  seeing  that  they 
would  be  overtaken,  they  stopped  short,  and  beg- 
ged Mr.  M'Kay  to  fire  upon  the  approaching 
savages,  which  he,  being  well  acquainted  with 
the  Indian  character  from  the  time  he  accompa- 
nied Sir  Alexander  M'Kenzie,  and  having  met 
with  similar  occurrences  before,  would  by  no 
means  do ;  but  displayed  a  friendly  sign  to  the 
astonished  natives,  and  invited  them  to  land  for 


108 


franciiere's  voyage. 


an  amical)lo  talk  ;  to  which  tlicy  immediately  as- 
sented. ;Mr.  M'Kay  had  sent  Mr.  do  Montigny 
to  procure  some  tobacco  and  a  pipe,  in  order  to 
strike  a  peace  with  these  barbarians.  The  latter 
then  returned  to  Mr.  M'Kay,  with  the  necessary 
articles,  and  in  tlie  evening  tlie  party  came  back 
to  our  camp,  which  we  had  fixed  between  the 
villages.  We  were  then  informed  that  the  In- 
dians whom  Mr.  M'Kay  had  met,  were  at  war 
with  the  Krelaits.  It  was  impossible,  conse- 
quently, to  close  our  eyes  all  night ;  the  natives 
passing  and  repassing  continually  from  one  vil- 
lage to  the  other,  making  fearful  cries,  and 
coming  every  minute  to  solicit  us  to  discharge 
our  firearms ;  all  to  frighten  their  enemies,  and 
let  them  see  that  they  were  on  their  guard. 

On  the  5th,  in  the  morning,  we  paid  a  visit  to 
the  hostile  camp ;  and  those  savages,  who  had 
never  seen  white  men,  regarded  us  with  curiosity 
and  astonishment,  lifting  the  legs  of  our  trowsers 
and  opening  our  shirts,  to  see  if  the  skin  of  our 
bodies  resembled  that  of  our  faces  and  hands. 
We  remained  some  time  with  them,  to  make  pro- 


MOUNT   ST.    HKLKN  S. 


109 


to 
lad 

|ity 

)ur 
Ids. 
Iro- 


posals  of  peace  ;  and  having  ascertained  that  this 
warlike  demonstration  originated  in  a  trifling 
oftencc  on  the  part  of  the  Krcluils,  we  found  thorn 
well  disposed  to  arrange  matters  in  an  amica- 
ble fasliion.  After  having  given  them,  therefore, 
some  looking-glasses,  beads,  knive^,  tobacco, 
and  other  trifles,  we  quitted  them  and  i)ursued 
our  way. 

Having  passed  a  deserted  village,  and  then 
several  islands,  we  came  in  sight  of  a  noblo 
mountain  on  the  north,  about  twenty  miles  dis- 
tant, all  covered  with  snow,  contrasting  remark- 
ably with  the  dark  foliage  of  the  forests  at  its 
base,  and  probably  the  same  which  was  seen  })y 
Broughton,  and  named  by  him  Mount  St.  He/en's, 
We  pulled  against  a  strong  current  all  this  day, 
and  at  evening  our  guide  made  us  enter  a  little 
river,  on  the  bank  of  which  we  found  a  good 
camping  place,  under  a  grove  of  oaks,  and  in  the 
midst  of  odoriferous  wild  flowers,  where  we 
passed  a  night  more  tranquil  than  that  which  had 
preceded  it. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  we  ascended  this  small 


m  u  \ 


no 


FUAXCIIEIIKS    VOYACK. 


I! 

;;if 

stream,  and  soon  arrived  at  a  large  v?"'  're  called 
Thlakalamah^  the  chief  whereof,  who  wu.  i  young 
and  handsome  man,  was  called  Kcasscno,  and  was 
a  relative  of  our  guide.  Tlie  situation  of  tliis  vil- 
lage is  the  most  charming  that  can  be,  being  built 
on  the  little  river  that  wo  had  ascended,  and 
indeed  at  its  navigable  head,  being  here  but  a 
torrent  with  numerous  cascades  leaping  from  rock 
to  rock  in  their  descent  to  the  deep,  limpid  water, 
which  then  flows  through  a  beautiful  prairie,  en- 
amelled with  odorous  flowers  of  all  colors,  and 
studded  with  superb  groves  of  oak.  The  fresh- 
ness and  beauty  of  this  spot,  which  JNature  seemed 
to  have  taken  pleasure  in  adorning  and  enriching 
with  her  most  precious  gifts,  contrasted,  in  a 
striking  manner,  with  the  indigence  and  unclean- 
liness  of  its  inhabitants  ;  and  I  regretted  that  it 
had  not  fallen  to  the  lot  of  civilized  men.  I  was 
wrong  no  doubt :  it  is  just  that  those  should  be 
most  favored  by  their  common  mother,  who  are 
least  disposed  to  pervert  her  gifts,  or  to  give  the 
preference  to  advantages  which  are  factitious, 
and  often  very  frivolous.     We  quitted  wito  re- 


THK   WILI.AMKT. 


Ill 


grot  tills  cliarniing  S[)ot,  and  soon  came  to  another 
lar^o  village,  -which  our  guide  informed  us  was 
called  Kathlapnolhi^  and  was  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  a  small  stream,  that  seemed  to  How 
down  from  the  mountain  covered  with  snow, 
which  we  had  seen  the  day  before :  this  river  is 
called  Cowilkt.  We  coasted  a  pretty  island, 
well  timbered,  and  high  enough  above  the  level 
of  the  Columbia  to  escape  inundation  in  the 
freshets,  and  arrived  at  two  villages  called  Malt- 
nabah.  We  then  passed  the  confluence  of  the 
river  Wallamat,  or  Willamet,  above  which  the 
tide  ceases  to  be  felt  in  the  Columbia.  Our 
guide  informed  us  that  ascending  this  river  about 
a  day's  journey,  there  was  a  considerable  fall, 
beyond  which  the  country  abounded  in  deer,  elk, 
bear,  beaver,  and  otter.  But  here,  at  the  spot 
where  we  were,  the  oaks  and  poplar  which  line 
both  banks  of  the  river,  the  green  and  flowery 
prairies  discerned  through  the  trees,  and  the 
mountains  discovered  in  the  distance,  offer  to  the 
eye  of  the  observer  who  loves  the  beauties  of 
simple  nature,  a  prospect  the  most  lovely  and 


112 


FRAXniFRK  R   VOYAC.K. 


ii 


cnchnntinpj.  Wc  cncamjiod  for  the  nic^lit  on  tho 
cd^o  of  one  of  thoHO  iiuc  prairies. 

Oil  the  7th  we  passed  several  low  islands,  and 
soon  discovered  Mount  Ilood^  a  hi^h  mountain, 
capped  with  snow,  so  named  l)y  Lieutenant 
Brougliton ;  and  Mount  Wnshinp^lon,  anoth(;r 
snowy  summit,  so  called  by  Lewis  and  Clarke. 
The  prospect  which  the  former  had  before  his 
eyes  at  this  place,  aj)peared  to  him  so  charming, 
that  landing  upon  a  point,  to  take  possession  of 
the  country  in  the  name  of  King  George,  he 
named  it  Poinle  Belle  Viw.  At  two  o'clock  we 
passed  Point  Vancouver,  the  highest  reached  by 
Broughton.  The  width  of  the  river  diminishes 
considerably  above  this  point,  and  we  began  very 
soon  to  encounter  shoals  of  sand  and  gravel ;  a 
sure  indication  that  we  were  nearing  the  rapids. 
We  encamped  that  evening  under  a  ledge  of  rocks, 
descending  almost  to  tho  water's  edge. 

The  next  day,  the  8th,  we  did  not  proceed  far 
before  we  encountered  a  very  rapid  current. 
Soon  after,  we  saw  a  hut  of  Indians  engaged  in 
fishing,  where  we  stopped  to  breakfast.     We 


ACCOUNT   OF  SPANMAIIIH. 


113 


d  far 
•rent, 
jd  in 
We 


found  here  an  old  )>lind  man,  who  u,"avo  us  a  cor- 
dial reception.  Our  guide  said  that  he  was  a 
white  man,  aud  that  liis  name  was  N;A>.  We 
l(iarued  IVoui  the  mouth  of  the  ohl  man  iiimsolf, 
that  lie  was  the  son  of  a  Spaniard  who  had  been 
wrecked  at  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  that  a  part 
of  the  crew  on  this  occasion  i^ot  safe  ashore,  but 
were  all  massacred  hy  the  (Jlatsops,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  four,  who  were  spared  and  who  mar- 
ried native  women ;  that  these  four  Spaniards, 
of  whom  his  father  was  one,  disgusted  with  tho 
savage  life,  attempted  to  reach  a  settlement  of 
their  own  nation  toward  the  south,  but  had  never 
been  heard  of  since ;  and  that  when  his  father, 
with  his  companions,  left  the  country,  he  himself 
was  yet  quite  young.*  These  good  people  having 
regaled  us  with  fresh  salmon,  we  left  them,  and 
arrived  very  soon  at  a  rapid,  opposite  an  island, 
named  Straioberrij  Island  by  Captains  Lewis  and 

*  Tlu'se  facts,  if  they  were  luitheiiticnted,  would  prove  ihut  tho 
Spaniards  were  tho  first  who  discovered  the  mouth  of  tho  Coluni- 
l)i!i.  It  is  certain  that  long  before  the  voyages  of  Captaiiis  Gray 
and  Vancouver,  they  knew  at  least  a  part  of  the  course  of  that 
river,  which  was  designated  in  their  maps  under  tho  name  of 
Oregon. 


114 


FIlANCFirRK  S    VOYAOE. 


ii  m 


ill:' 


Clarke,  in  180G.  Wo  left  our  men  at  a  large 
village,  to  take  care  of  the  canoe  tind  baggage ; 
and  following  our  guide,  after  walking  about  two 
hours,  in  a  beaten  path,  we  came  to  the  foot  of 
the  fall,  where  we  amused  ourselves  for  some 
time  with  shooting  the  seals,  which  were  here  in 
abundance,  and  in  watching  the  Indians  taking- 
salmon  below  the  cataract,  ij^  their  scoop-nets, 
from  stages  erected  for  that  purpose  over  the  ed- 
dies. A  chief,  a  young  man  of  fine  person  and 
a  good  mien,  came  to  us,  followed  by  some  twenty 
others,  and  invited  us  to  his  wigwam :  we  accom- 
panied him,  had  roasted  salmon  for  supper,  and 
some  mats  were  spread  for  our  night's  repose. 

The  next  morning,  having  ascertained  that 
there  was  no  trading  post  near  the  Falls,  and 
Coalpo  absolutely  refusing  to  proceed  further, 
alleging  that  the  natives  of  the  villages  beyond 
were  his  enemies,  and  would  not  fail  to  kill  him 
if  they  had  him  in  their  power,  wo  decided  to 
return  to  the  encampment.  Having,  therefore, 
distributed  some  presents  to  our  host  (I  mean  the 
young  chief  with  whom  we  had  supped  and  lodged) 


RETURN. 


11 


t) 


i:  t 


and  to  some  of  his  followers,  and  procured  a  su|> 
ply  of  fresh  salmon  for  the  return  voyage,  we  re- 
onibarked  and  reached  the  camp  on  the  14th, 
without  accidents  or  incidents  worth  relating. 


f    ' 


■    -I 


no 


franchere's  voyage. 


f 
i 

1  : 
i  - 

i  > 

; 

<i 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Dopai'luro  of  the  Tonquin. —  Indian  Messengers. —  Project  of  nn 
Expedition  to  the  Interior. — Arrival  of  Mr.  Daniel  Thompson. — 
Departure  of  the  Expedition. —  Designs  upon  us  by  the  Natives. 
—  Rumors  of  the  Destruction  of  the  Tonquin. —  Scarcity  of 
Provisions. —  Nairativo  of  a  strange  Indian. —  Duplicity  and 
Cunning  of  Conicomly. 

Having  built  a  warehouse  (62  feet  by  20)  to 
put  under  cover  the  articles  we  were  to  receive 
from  the  ship,  we  were  busily  occupied,  from  the 
16th  to  the  30th,  in  stowing  away  the  goods  and 
other  eifects  intended  for  the  establishment. 

The  ship,  which  had  been  detained  by  circum- 
stances, much  longer  than  had  been  anticipated, 
left  her  anchorage  at  last,  on  the  1st  of  June, 
and  dropped  dowu  to  Baker's  bay,  there  to  wait 
for  a  favorable  wind  to  get  out  of  the  river.  As 
she  was  to  coast  along  the  north,  and  enter  all 
the  harbors,  in  order  to  procure  as  many  furs  as 


MY  GOOD   FORTUNE. 


117 


possible,  and  to  touch  at  the  Columbia  river  be- 
fore she  finally  left  these  seas  for  the  United 
States,  it  was  unanimously  resolved  among  the 
partners,  that  Mr.  M'Kay  should  join  the  cruise, 
as  well  to  aid  the  captain,  as  to  obtain  correct 
information  in  regard 'to  the  commerce  with  the 
natives    on   that  *  coast.      Mr.   M'Kay   selected 
Messrs.  J.  Lewis  and  0.  de  Montigny  to  accom- 
pany him ;    but  the   latter  having  represented 
that  the  sea  made  him  sick,  was  excused ;  and 
Mr.  M'Kay  shipped  in  his  place  a  young  man 
named  Louis  Brusle,  to  serve  him  in  the  capacity 
of  domestic,  being  one  of  the  young  Canadian 
sailors.     I  had  the  good  fortune  not  to  bo  chosen 
for  this  disastrous  voyage,  thanks  to  my  having 
made  myself  useful  at  the  establishment.     Mr. 
Mumford  (the  second  mate)  owed  the  same  hai> 
piness  to  the  incompatibility  of  his  disposition 
with  that  of  the  captain ;  he  had  permission  to 
remain,  and  engaged  with  the  company  in  place 
of  Mr.  Aikin  as  coaster,  and  in  command  of  the 
schooner.* 

*  This  srlioonor  was   foiinrl   too  smnll   for  tho  purposo.     Mr. 
Astor  lm<l  no  iclpn  of  the  dangpis  l,o  be  met  at  the  moutli  of  the 


I 


1.    |.i 


•|i 


i  1  I 


J    I 


118 


franchere's  voyage. 


On  the  5tli  of  June,  tlie  ship  got  out  to  sea, 
with  a  good  wind.  We  continued  in  the  mean- 
time to  labor  without  intermission  at  the  comple- 
tion of  the  storehouse,  and  in  the  erection  of  a 
dwelling  for  ourscl^'es,  and  a  powder  magazine. 
These  buildings  were  constructed  of  hewn  logs, 
and,  in  the  absence  of  boards,  tightly  covered 
and  roofed  with  cedar  bark.  The  natives,  of 
both  sexes,  visited  us  more  frequently,  and 
formed  a  pretty  considerable  camp  near  the  es- 
tablishment. 

On  the  15th,  some  natives  from  up  the  river, 
brought  us  two  strange  Indians,  a  man  and  a 
woman.  They  were  not  attired  like  the  savages 
on  the  river  Columbia,  but  wore  long  robes  of 
dressed  deer-skin,  with  leggings  and  moccasins 
in  the  fashion  of  the  tribes  to  the  east  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  TVe  put  questions  to  them  in 
various  Indian  dialects ;  but  they  did  not  under- 
stand us.     They  showed  us  a  letter  addressed  to 


Columbia,  or  he  would  have  ordered  the  frame  of  a  vessel  of  at 
least  one  hundred  tons.  The  frames  shipped  in  New  York  were 
used  in  the  construction  of  this  one  only,  which  was  employed 
solely  in  the  river  trade. 


STUANGE  INDIANS. 


119 


lei  of  at 
[v.  were 
iployed 


"  Mr.  John  Stuart,  Fort  Estekatadene,  Neiv  Cal- 
edonia.^* Mr.  Fillet  then  addressing  them  in  the 
Knisteneaux  language,  they  answered,  although 
they  appeared  not  to  understand  it  perfectly. 
Notwithstanding,  we  learned  from  them  that  they 
had  been  sent  by  a  Mr.  Finnan  M'Donald,  a 
clerk  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
and  who  had  a  post  on  a  river  which  they  called 
Spokan;  that  having  lost  their  way,  they  had 
followed  the  course  of  the  Tacousah-  Tcsseh  (the 
Indian  name  of  the  Columbia),  that  when  they 
arrived  at  the  Falls,  the  natives  made  them  un- 
derstand that  there  were  white  men  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river ;  and  not  doubting  that  the  person 
to  whom  the  letter  was  addressed  would  be  found 
there,  they  had  come  to  deliver  it. 

We  kept  these  messengers  for  some  days,  and 
having  drawn  from  them  important  information 
respecting  the  country  in  the  interior,  west  of  the 
Mountains,  we  decided  to  send  an  expedition 
thither, under  the  command  of  Mr.  David  Stuart; 
and  the  15th  July  was  fixed  for  its  departure. 

All  was  in  fact  ready  on  the  appointed  day, 


120 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


and  we  were  about  to  load  the  canoes,  when 
toward  midday,  we  saw  a  large  canoe,  with  a  flag 
displayed  at  her  stern,  rounding  the  point  which 
we  called   Tongue  Point.     We  knew  not  who  it 
could  be  ;  for  we  did  not  so  soon  expect  our  own 
party,  who  (as  the  reader  will  remember)  were 
to  cross  the  continent,  by  the  route  which  Cap- 
tains Lewis  and  Clarke  had  followed,  in  1805, 
and  to  winter  for  that  purpose  somewhere  on  the 
Missouri.     "We  were  soon  relieved  of  our  uncer- 
tainty by  the  arrival  of  the  canoe,  which  touched 
shore  at  a  little  wharf  that  we  had  built  to  facili- 
tate the  landing  of  goods  from  the  vessel.     The 
flag  she  bore  »7as  the  British,  and  her  crew  was 
composed  of  eight  Canadian  boatmen  or  voya- 
g-etirs.     A  well-dressed  man,  who  appeared  to 
be  the  commander,  was  the  first  to  leap  ashore, 
and  addressing  us  without  ceremony,  said  that 
his  name  was  David  Thompson,  and  that  he  was 
one  of  the  partners  of  the  Northwest  Company. 
We  invited  him  to  our  quarters,  which  were  at 
one  end  of  the  warehouse,  the   dwelling-house 
not  being  yet  completed.     After  the  usual  civili- 


MR.    THOMPSON. 


121 


was 
voya- 
d  to 
lore, 
that 
was 
^any. 
re  at 
house 
civili- 


ties had  been  extended  to  our  visitor,  Mr.  Thomp- 
son said  that  he  had  crossed  the  continent  during 
the  preceding  season ;  but  that  the  desertion  of 
a  portion  of  his  men  had  compelled  him  to  win- 
ter at  the  base  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  at  the 
head  waters  of  the  Columbia.     In  the  spring  he 
had  built  a  canoe,  the  materials  for  which  he  had 
brought  with  him  across  the  mountains,  and  had 
come  down  the  river  to  our  establishment.     He 
added  that  the  wintering  partners  had  resolved 
to  abandon  all  their  trading  posts  west  of  the 
mountains,  not  to  enter  into  competition  with  us, 
provided  our  company  would  engage  not  to  en- 
croach upon  their  commerce  on  the  cast  side : 
and  to  support  what  he  said,  produced  a  letter 
to  that  effect,  addressed  by.  the  wintering  part- 
ners to  the  chief  of  their  house  in  Canada,  the 
Hon.  William  M'Gillivray. 

Mr.  Thompson  kept  a  regular  journal,  and 
travelled,  I  thought,  more  like  a  geographer  than 
a  fur-trader.  He  was  provided  with  a  sextant, 
chronometer  and  barometer,  and  during  a  week's 

sojourn  which  he  made  at  our  place,  had  an  op- 

6 


122 


franchere's  voyage. 


■   i 


portunity  to  make  several  astronomical  observa- 
tions. He  recognised  the  two  Indians  who  had 
brought  the  letter  addressed  to  Mr.  J.  Stuart, 
and  told  us  that  they  were  two  women,  one  of 
whom  had  dressed  herself  as  a  man,  to  travel 
with  more  security.  The  description  which  ho 
gave  us  of  the  interior  of  the  country  was  not 
calculated  to  give  us  a  very  favorable  idea  of  it, 
and  did  not  perfectly  accord  with  that  of  our 
two  Indian  guests.  We  persevered,  however,  in 
the  resolution  we  had  taken,  of  sending  an  ex- 
pedition thither ;  and,  on  the  23d  Mr.  D.  Stuart 
set  out,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Pillet,  Ross, 
M'Clellan  and  de  Montigny,  with  four  Canadian 
voyageurs^  and  the  two  Indian  women,  and  in 
company  with  Mr.  Thompson  and  his  crew.  The 
wind  being  favorable,  th'  Mttle  flotilla  hoisted 
sail,  and  was  soon  out  of  our  sight.* 

*  Mr,  Thompson  had  no  doubt  been  sent  by  the  agents  of  the 
Northwest  Company,  to  take  possession  of  an  eligible  spot  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  with  a  view  of  forestalling  the  plan  of 
Mr.  Astor.  He  would  have  been  there  before  us,  no  doubt,  but 
for  the  desertion  of  his  men.  The  consequence  of  this  step  would 
have  been  his  taking  possession  of  the  country,  and  displaying 
the  British  flag,  as  an  emblem  of  that  possession  and  a  .guarantee 


WE  FORTIFY  OURSELVES. 


123 


Ithe 

I  the 

of 

I  but 

luld 
[ing 
Itee 


The  natives,  who  till  then  had  surrounded  us 
in  great  numbers,  began  to  withdraw,  and  very 
soon  we  saw  no  more  of  them.  At  first  we  at- 
tributed their  absence  to  the  want  of  furs  to  trade 
with ;  but  we  soon  learned  that  they  acted  in  that 
manner  from  another  motive.  One  of  the  sec- 
ondary chiefs  who  had  formed  a  friendship  for 
Mr.  R.  Stuart,  informed  him,  that  seeing  us  re- 
duced in  number  by  the  expedition  lately  sent 
off,  they  had  formed  the  design  of  surprising  us, 
to  take  our  lives  and  plunder  the  post.  We 
hastened,  therefore,  to  put  ourselves  in  the  best 
possible  state  of  defence.  The  dwelling  house 
was  raised,  parallel  to  the  warehouse  ;  we  cut  a 
great  quantity  of  pickets  in  the  forest,  and  form- 
ed a  square,  with  palisades  in  front  and  rear,  of 
about  90  feet  by  120 ;  the  warehouse,  built  on 
the  edge  of  a  ravine,  formed  one  flank,  the  dwel- 
ling house  and  shops  the  other ;  with  a  little  bas- 

of  protection  liprcafter.  Hn  found  himself  too  late,  however,  and 
the  stars  and  stripes  floating  over  Astoria.  This  note  is  not  in- 
tended by  the  author  as  an  after-thought:  as  the  opinion  it  con- 
veys was  that  which  we  all  entertained  at  the  time  of  that  gentle- 
man's visit. 


•1 


124 


FRANCHFRE  S   VOYAGE. 


fc 


tion  at  each  angle  north  and  south,  on  whicli 
were  mounted  four  small  cannon.  The  whole 
was  finished  in  six  days,  and  had  a  sufficiently 
formidable  aspect  to  deter  the  Indians  from  at- 
tacking us  ;  and  for  greater  surety,  we  organized 
a  guard  for  day  and  night. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  month,  a  large  assem- 
blage of  Indians  from  the  neigliborhood  of  the 
straits  Juan  de  Fuca,  and  Graifs  Harbor^  formed 
a  great  caiiio  on  Baker's  Bay,  for  the  ostensible 
object  of  fishing  for  sturgeon.  It  was  bruited 
among  these  Indians  that  the  Tonquin  had  been  de- 
stroyed on  the  coast,  and  Mr.  M'Kay  (or  the  chief 
trader,  as  they  called  him)  and  all  the  crew,  mas- 
sacred by  the  natives.  We  did  not  give  credence 
to  this  rumor.  Some  days  after,  other  Indians 
from  Gray's  Harbor,  called  Tchikej/Hs,  confirmed 
what  the  first  had  narrated,  and  even  gave  us, 
as  far  as  we  could  judge  by  the  little  we  knew 
of  their  language,  a  very  circumstantial  detail 
of  the  affair,  so  that  without  wholly  convincing 
us,  it  did  not  fail  to  make  a  painful  impression 
on  our  minds,  and  keep  us  in  an  excited  state  of 


SCARCITY   OF   FOOD. 


125 


feeling  as  to  the  truth  of  the  report.  The  In- 
dians of  the  Bay  looked  fiercer  and  more  warl'ke 
than  those  of  our  neighborhood  ;  so  we  redoubled 
our  vigilance,  and  performed  a  regular  daily  drill 
to  accustom  ourselves  to  tiie  use  of  arms. 

To  the  necessity  of  securing  ourselves  against 
an  attack  on  tlie  part  of  tlie  natives,  was  joined 
that  of  obtaining  a  stock  of  provisions  for  the 
winter:  those  which  we  had  received  from  the 
vessel  were  very  quickly  exhausted,  and  from  the 
commencement  of  the  month  of  July  we  were 
forced  to  depend  upon  fish.  Not  having  brought 
hunters  with  us,  we  had  to  rely  for  venison,  on 
the  precarious  hunt  of  one  of  the  natives  who  had 
not  abandoned  us  when  the  rest  of  his  country- 
men retired.  This  man  brought  us  from  time  to 
time,  a  very  lean  and  very  dry  doe-elk,  for  which 
we  had  to  pay,  notwithstanding,  very  dear.  The 
ordinary  price  of  a  stag  was  a  blanket,  a  knife, 
some  tobacco,  powder  and  ball,  besides  supplying 
our  hunter  with  a  musket.  This  dry  meat,  and 
smoke-dried  fish,  constituted  our  daily  food,  and 
that  in  very  insufficient  quantity  for  hardworking 


Mm 


120 


FRAXrirKRES  VOYAOR. 


"iW^: 


iii*-^ 


men.  Wc  had  no  In'cad,  and  vcfrctablcs,  of 
courso,  were  (iiiito  out  of  the  (question.  In  a 
word  our  fiire  was  not  sumptuous.  Those  who 
accommodated  themselves  best  to  our  mode  of 
living  were  the  Sandwich-islanders :  salmon  and 
elk  were  to  them  exquisite  viands. 

On  the  11th  of  August  a  number  of  Chinooks 
visited  us,  bringing  a  strange  Indian,  who  had, 
they  said,  something  interesting  to  communicate. 
This  savage  told  us,  in  fact,  that  he  had  been  en- 
gaged with  ten  more  of  his  countrymen,  by  a 
Captain  Ai/res,  to  hunt  seals  on  the  islands  in 
Sir  Francis  Drake's  Baij^  where  these  animals 
are  very  numerous,  with  a  promise  of  being  taken 
home  and  paid  for  their  services ;  the  captain 
had  left  them  on  the  islands,  to  go  southwardly 
and  purchase  provisions,  he  said,  of  the  Spaniards 
of  Monterey  in  California ;  but  he  had  never  re- 
turned :  and  they,  believing  that  he  had  been 
wrecked,  had  embarked  in  a  skiff  which  he  had 
left  them,  and  had  reached  the  main  land,  from 
which  they  were  not  far  distant ;  but  their  skiif 
was  shattered  to  pieces  in  the  surf,  and  they  had 


COMCOMI.V  S   SoUi:    TUllOAT. 


127 


paved  tli<'ins('lvi»H  by  swimming:.  Holievinj*;  that 
thoy  wore  not  tar  from  tlic  river  Cohiiuljia,  they 
had  foUowed  the  shore,  livinjr,  on  the  way,  upon 
shell-fish  and  fro^s  ;  at  last  they  arrived  nmonj:^ 
strange  Indians,  who,  far  from  receiving  them 
kindly,  had  killed  eight  of  them  and  made  tho 
rest  prisoners  ;  but  the  K/cmoo/cs,  a  neighboring 
tril)e  to  tlie  C/(Uso/)s,  hearing  that  they  were  cap- 
tives, had  ransomed  them. 

These  faets  must  have  oceurred  in  March  or 
April,  1811.  The  Indian  who  gave  us  an  account 
of  them,  appeared  to  have  a  great  deal  of  intelli- 
gence and  knew  some  words  of  the  English  lan- 
guage. He  added  that  he  had  been  at  the  Rus- 
sian trading  post  at  Cliitka,  that  he  had  visited 
the  coast  of  California,  the  Sandwich  islands,  and 
oven  China. 

About  this  time,  old  Comcomly  sent  to  Astoria 
for  Mr.  Stuart  and  me,  to  come  and  cure  him  of 
a  swelled  throat,  which,  he  said,  afflicted  him 
sorely.  As  it  was  late  in  the  day,  we  postponed 
till  to-morrow  going  to  cure  the  chief  of  the  Chi- 
nooks ;  and  it  was  well  we  did ;  for,  the  same 


I  I 


% , 


3    ! 


12S 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


..i:r;'!4 


evening,  the  wife  of  the  Indian  who  had  accom- 
panied us  in  our  voyage  to  the  Falls,  sent  us  word 
that  Comcomly  was  perfectly  well,  the  pretended 
tonsillitis  being  only  a  pretext  to  get  us  in  his 
power.     This  timely  advice  kept  us  at  home. 


OUR  DWELLINCJ-IIOUSE. 


129 


CHAPTER   X. 

Occujiatioiia  at  Astoria. —  Return  of  a  Portion  of  the  Men  of  tho 
Expedition  to  tho  Interior. —  New  Expedition.-*- Excursion  in 
Search  of  three  Deserters. 

Ox  the  f!6th  of  September  our  house  was  fin- 
ished, and  we  took  possession  of  it.  The  mason 
work  had  at  first  caused  us  some  difficulty ;  but 
at  last,  not  being  able  to  make  lime  for  want  of 
lime-stones,  we  employed  blue  clay  as  a  substitute 
for  mortar.  This  dwelling-house  was  sufficiently 
spacious  to  hold  all  our  company,  and  we  had 
distributed  it  in  the  most  convenient  manner 
that  we  could.  It  comprised  a  sitting,  a  dining 
room,  some  lodging  or  sleeping  rooms,  and  an 
apartment  for  the  men  and  artificers,  all  under 
the  same  roof.  We  also  comi)leted  a  shop  for 
the  blacksmith,  who  till  that  time  had  worked  in 
the  open  air. 


♦» 


130 


franchere's  voyage. 


Nl 


The  schooner,  the  construction  of  which  had 
necessarily  languished  for  want  of  an  adequate 
force  at  the  ship-yard,  was  finally  launched  on 
the  2d  of  October,  and  named  the  Dolly ^  with 
the  formalities  usual  on  such  occasions.  I  was 
on  that  day  at  Young'^s  Bay,  where  I  saw  the 
ruins  of  the  quarters  erected  by  Captains  Lewis 
and  Clarkfe,  in  1805-'06  :  they  were  but  piles  of 
rough,  unhewn  logs,  overgrown  with  parasite 
creepers. 

On  the  evening  of  the  5th,  Messrs.  Fillet  and 
M'Lellan  arrived,  from  the  party  of  Mr.  David 
Stuart,  in  a  canoe  manned  by  two  of  his  men. 
They  brought,  as  passengers,  Mr.  Ri-gis  Bruguier, 
whom  I  had  known  in  Canada  as  a  respectable 
country  merchant,  and  an  Iroquois  family.  Mr. 
Bruguier  had  been  a  trader  among  the  Indians 
on  the  Saskatchewine  river,  where  he  had  lost 
his  outfit :  he  had  since  turned  trapper,  and  had 
come  into  this  region  to  hunt  beaver,  being  pro- 
vided with  traps  and  other  needful  implements. 
The  report  which  these  gentlemen  gave  of  the  in- 
terior was  highly  satisfactory:  they  had  found 


THK   OKEXAKAN. 


131 


the  climate  salubrious,  and  had  been  well  re- 
ceived by  the  natives.  The  latter  possessed  a 
great  number  of  horses,  and  Mr.  Stuart  had  pur- 
chased several  of  these  animals  at  a  low  price. 
Ascending  the  river  they  had  come  to  a  pretty 
stream,  which  the  natives  called  Okenakan.  Mr. 
Stuart  had  resolved  to  establish  his  post  on 
the  bank  of  this  river,  and  having  erected  a  log- 
house,  he  thought  best  to  send  back  the  above 
named  persons,  retaining  with  him,  for  the  winter, 
only  Messrs.  Ross  and  de  Montigny,  and  two 
men.* 

Meanwhile,  the  season  being  come  when  the 
Indians  quit  the  seashore  and  the  banks  of  the 
Columbia,  to  retire  into  the  woods  and  establish 
their  winter  quarters  along  the  small  streams  and 
rivers,  we  b'^gan  to  find  ourselves  short  of  pro- 
visions, having  received  no  supplies  from  them 
for  some  time.  It  was  therefore  determined  that 
Mr.  R.  Stuart  should  set  out  in  the  schooner  with 


*  One  of  these  men  had  been  loft  with  him  by  Mr.  Thompson, 
in  exchange  for  u  Sandwich-islander  whom  that  gentleman  pro- 
posed to  take  to  Canada,  and  thence  to  England. 


132 


franchere's  voyage. 


Mr.  Mumford,  for  the  tlirccfold  purpose,  of  ob- 
taining all  the  provisions  they  could,  cutting 
oaken  staves  for  the  use  of  the  cooper,  and  tra- 
ding with  the  Indians  up  the  river.  They  left 
with  this  design  on  the  12th.  At  the  end  of  five 
days  Mr.  Mumford  returned  in  a  canoe  of  Indians. 
This  man  having  wished  to  assume  the  command, 
and  to  order  (in  the  style  of  Captain  Thorn)  the 
person  who  had  engaged  him  to  obey,  had  been 
sent  back  in  consequence  to  Astoria. 

On  the  10th  of  November  we  discovered  that 
three  of  our  people  had  absconded,  viz.,  P.  D. 
Jeremie,  and  the  two  Belleaux.  They  had  leave 
to  go  out  shooting  for  two  days,  and  carried  off 
with  them  firearms  and  ammunition,  and  a  hand- 
some light  Indian  canoe.  As  soon  as  their  flight 
was  known,  having  procured  a  large  canoe  of  the 
Chinooks,  we  embarked,  Mr.  Matthews  and  I,  with 
five  natives,  to  pursue  them,  with  orders  to  pro- 
ceed as  far  as  the  Falls,  if  necessary.  On  the 
11th,  having  ascended  the  river  to  a  place  called 
Oak  Point,  we  overtook  the  schooner  lying  at 
anchor,  while  Mr.  Stuart  was  taking  in  a  load  of 


0{^ll    SEARCH. 


133 


staves  and  hoop-})oles.  Mr.  Farnliam  joined  our 
party,  as  well  as  one  of  the  hands,  and  thus  re- 
inforced, \vc  pursued  our  way,  journeying  day 
and  niglit,  and  stopping  at  every  Indian  village, 
to  make  inquiries  and  offer  a  reward  for  the  ap- 
prehension of  our  runaways.  Having  reached 
the  Falls  without  finding  any  trace  of  them,  and 
our  provisions  giving  out,  we  retraced  our  steps, 
and  arrived  on  the  16th  at  Oak  Point,  which  we 
found  Mr.  Stuart  ready  to  quit. 

Meanwhile,  the  natives  of  the  vicinity  informed 
us  that  they  had  seen  the  marks  of  shoes  im- 
printed on  the  sand,  at  the  confluenoo  of  a  small 
stream  in  the  neighborhood.  We  got  three  small 
canoes,  carrying  two  persons  each,  and  having 
ascertained  that  the  information  was  correct, 
after  searching  the  environs  during  a  part  of  the 
17th,  we  ascended  the  small  stream  as  far  as 
some  high  lands  which  are  seen  from  Oak  Point, 
and  which  lie  about  eight  or  nine  miles  south  of 
it.  The  space  bciwebn  these  high  lands  and  the 
ridge  crowned  with  oaks  on  the  bank  of  the 
Columbia,  is  a  low  and  swampy  land,  cut  up  by 


134 


FRANCIIERES    VOYAflR. 


m 


•H 


^IIMV 


an  infinity  of  little  clianncls.  Toward  evening 
we  returned  on  our  path,  to  regain  the  schooner; 
but  instead  of  taking  the  circuitous  way  of  the 
river,  by  which  we  had  come,  we  made  for  Oak 
Point  by  the  most  direct  route,  through  these 
channels;  but  night  coming  on,  we  lost  ourselves. 
Our  situation  became  the  most  disagreeable  that 
can  be  imagined.  Being  unable  to  find  a  place 
where  we  could  land,  on  account  of  the  morass, 
we  were  ol)liged  to  continue  rowing,  or  rather 
turning  round,  in  this  species  of  labyrinth,  con- 
stantly kneeling  in  our  little  canoes,  which  any 
unlucky  movement  would  infallibly  have  caused 
to  upset.  It  rained  in  torrents  and  was  dark  as 
pitch.  At  last,  after  having  wandered  about 
during  a  considerable  part  of  the  night,  we  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  the  edge  of  the  mainland. 
Leaving  there  our  canoes,  because  we  could  not 
drag  them  (as  we  attempted)  through  the  forest, 
we  crossed  the  woods  in  the  darkness,  tearing 
ourselves  with  the  brush,  and  reached  the  schoon- 
er, at  about  two  in  the  morning,  benumbed  with 
cold  and  exhausted  with  fatigue. 


ligS 
but 
wii 
put 


FRESH  DIFFICULTIES. 


inf) 


The  18tli  was  spent  in  getting  in  the  remain- 
der of  the  lading  of  the  little  vessel,  and  on  the 
morning  of  the  10th  we  raised  anchor,  and  drop- 
ped down  aln'east  of  the  Kreluit  village,  where 
some  of  the  Indians  offering  to  aid  us  in  the 
search  after  our  deserters,  Mr.  Stuart  put  Mr. 
Farnhani  and  me  on  shore  to  make  another  at- 
tempt. We  passed  that  day  in  drying  our  clothes, 
and  the  next  day  embarked  in  a  canoe,  with  one 
Kreluit  man  and  a  squaw,  and  ascended  the  river 
before  described  as  entering  the  Columbia  at  this 
place.  We  soon  met  a  canoe  of  natives,  who  in- 
formed us  that  our  runaways  had  been  made 
prisoners  by  the  chief  of  a  tribe  which  dwells 
upon  the  banks  of  the  Willamet  river,  and  which 
they  called  Cathlanaminim.  We  kept  on  and 
encamped  on  a  beach  of  sand  opposite  Deer 
island.  Therq  we  passed  a  night  almost  as  dis- 
agreeable as  that  of  the  17tli-18th.  We  had 
lighted  a  fire,  and  contrived  a  shelter  of  mats ; 
but  there  came  on  presently  a  violent  gust  of 
wind,  accompanied  with  a  heavy  rain :  our  fire  was 
put  out,  our  mats  were  carried  away,  and  we  could 


^ 
' 


'  *  1 


if 


136 


franchere's  voyage. 


I 


1,1  i; 


neither  rekindle  the  one  nor  find  tlic  others :  so 
that  we  had  to  remain  all  night  exposed  to  the 
fury  of  the  storm.     As  soon  as  it  was  day  we  re* 
embarked,  and  set  ourselves  to  paddling  v/ith  all 
our  miglit  to  warm  ourselves.     In  the  evening  wc 
arrived  near   the   village   where  our   deserters 
were,  and  saw  one  of  them  on  the  skirts  of  it. 
We  proceeded  to  the  hut  of  the  chief,  where  wo 
found  all  three,  more  inclined  to  follow  us  than 
to  remain  as  slaves  among  these  barbarians.    We 
passed  the  night  in  the  chief's  lodge,  not  without 
some  fear  and  some  precaution  ;  this  chief  having 
the  reputation  of  being  a  wicked  man,  and  ca- 
pable of  violating  the  rights  of  parties.     He  was 
a  man  of  high  stature  and  a  good  mien,  and  proud 
in  proportion,  as  we  discovered  by  the  chilling 
and  haughty  manner  in  which  he  received  us. 
Farnham  and  I  agreed  to  keep  watch  alternately, 
but  this  arrangement  was  superfluous,  as  neither 
of  us  could  sleep  a  wink  for  the  infernal  thump- 
ing and  singing  made  by  the  medicine  men  all 
night  long,  by  a  dying  native.     I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  the  sick  man  make  his  last  will 


th( 


li^i 


AUTHORS    FIIlMXi:.->4. 


187 


so 
the 
5  re* 


rr  WO 


rtcrs 
)f  it. 
•e  we 
than 
,   We 
itliout 

laving 
nd  ca- 
c  was 
proud 
hilling 
ed  us. 
nately, 
leither 
thump- 
tnen  all 
oppor- 
ast  will 


and  testament :  having  caused  to  be  brought  to 
him  whatever  he  had  that  was  most  precious,  hiS 
bracelets  of  cop})er,  his  bead  necklace,  his  bow 
and  arrows  and  quiver,  hi?  nets,  his  lines,  his 
spear,  his  pipe,  etc.,  he  distributed  tlie  whole  to 
his  most  intimate  friends,  with  a  promise  on  tu^.r 
part,  to  restore  them,  if  he  recovered. 

On  the  22d,  after  a  great  deal  of  talk,  and  in- 
finite quibbling  on  the  part  of  the  chief,  we  agreed 
with  him  for  the  ransom  of  our  men.  I  had 
visited  every  lodge  in  the  village  and  found  but 
few  of  the  young  men,  the  greater  part  having 
gone  on  a  fishing  excursion ;  knowing,  therefore, 
that  the  chief  could  not  be  supported  by  his  war- 
riors, I  was  resolved  not  be  imposed  upon,  and 
as  I  knew  where  the  firearms  of  the  fugitives  had 
been  deposited,  I  would  have  them  at  all  hazards ; 
but  we  were  obliged  to  give  him  all  our  blankets, 
amounting  to  eight,  a  brass  kettle,  a  hatchet,  a 
small  pistol,  much  out  of  order,  a  powder-horn, 
and  some  rounds  of  ammunition :  with  these 
articles  placed  in  a  pile  before  him,  we  demanded 
the  men's  clothing,  the  three  fowling-pieces,  and 


nn 


KHANCIIKUK  S    VOYAflK. 


M 


their  canoe,  whicli  lie  had  caused  to  be  liiddcii  in 
the  woods.  Nothing  but  our  iirnmcss  compelled 
him  to  accept  the  articles  offered  in  exchange; 
but  at  last,  with  great  reluctance,  he  closed  the 
bargain,  and  suffered  us  to  depart  in  the  evening 
with  the  prisoners  Und  the  property. 

We  all  five  (including  the  three  deserters) 
embarked  in  the  large  canoe,  leaving  ourKreluit 
and  his  wife  to  follow  in  the  other,  and  proceeded 
as  far  as  the  Cowlitzk,  where  we  camped.  The 
next  day,  we  pursued  our  journey  homeward, 
only  stopping  at  the  Kreluit  \illage  to  get  some 
provisions,  and  soon  entered  the  group  of  islands 
which  crowd  the  river  above  Gray's  bay.  On 
one  of  these  we  stopped  to  amuse  ourselves  with 
shooting  some  ducks,  and  meanwhile  a  smart 
breeze  springing  up,  we  split  open  a  double-rush 
mat  (which  had  served  as  a  bag),  to  make  a 
sail,  and  having  cut  a  forked  sapling  for  a  mast, 
shipped  a  few  boulders  to  stay  the  foot  of  it,  and 
spread  our  canvass  to  the  wind.  We  soon  ar- 
rived in  sight  of  Gray's  bay,  at  a  distance  of 
fourteen  or  fifteen  miles  from  our  establishment. 


OUR   TRMKUITY. 


V,V.) 


^Xc  liad,  notwithstanding,  a  lonp:  passage  across, 
tlie  river  forming  in  this  place,  as  1  have  before 
observed,  a  sort  of  lake,  by  the  recession  of  its 
shores  on  eitlier  hand :  but  the  wind  was  fair. 
We  *  undertook,  then,  to  cross,  and  quitted  the 
island,  to  enter  the  broad,  lake-like  expanse,  just 
as  the  sun  was  going  down,  hoping  to  reach  As- 
toria in  a  couple  of  hours. 

We  were  not  long  before  we  repented  of  our 
temerity:  for  in  a  short  time  the  sky  became 
overcast,  the  wind  increased  till  it  blew  with 
violence,  and  meeting  with  the  tide,  caused  the 
waves  to  rise  prodigiously,  which  broke  over  our 
wretched  canoe,  and  filled  it  with  water.  W^e 
lightened  it  as  much  as  we  could,  by  throwing 
overboard  the  little  baggage  wc  had  left,  and  I 
set  the  men  to  baling  with  our  remaining  brass 
kettle.  At  last,  after  having  been,  for  three  hours, 
tlie  sport  of  the  raging  billows,  and  threatened 
every  instant  with  being  swallowed  iip,  we  had 
the  unexpected  happiness  of  landing  in  a  cove  on 
the  north  shore  of  the  river.  Our  first  care  was 
to  thank  the  Almighty  for  having  delivered  us 


140 


FRANTIIKUKS   VOYA(!E. 


/    • 


from  so  itniiiinoiit  a  diuigor.  Then,  when  wc  liad 
secured  the  canoe,  and  groi)ed  our  way  to  the 
forest,  where  we  made,  with  ijranclu's  of  trees,  a 
shelter  against  the  wind  —  still  continuing  to 
Mow  with  violence,  and  kindled  a  great  fire 
to  warm  us  and  dry  our  clothes.  That  did  not 
prevent  us  from  shivering  the  rest  of  the  night, 
even  in  congratulating  ourselves  on  the  happi- 
ness of  setting  our  foot  on  shore  at  the  moment 
when  we  began  quite  to  despair  of  saving  our- 
selves at  all. 

The  morning  of  the  24  th  brought  with  it  a 
clear  sky,  but  no  abatement  in  the  violence  of  the 
wind,  till  toward  evening,  when  we  again  em- 
barked, and  arrived  with  our  deserters  at  the 
establishment,  where  they  never  expected  to  see 
us  again.  Some  Indians  w^ho  had  followed  us  in 
a  canoe,  up  to  the  moment  when  we  undertook 
the  passage  across  the  evening  before,  had  fol- 
lowed the  southern  shore,  and  making  the  port- 
age of  the  isthmus  of  Tongue  Point,  had  happily 
arrived  at  Astoria.  These  natives,  not  doubting 
that  we  were  lost,  so  reported  us  to  Mr.  M'Dou- 


ARRIVE  SAFELY. 


141 


had 

the 
js,  a 
r   to 

liio 
1  not 
li^ht, 
lappi- 


r  our- 

3 


gal ;   accordingly   that   gentleman   was   equally 
overjoyed  and  astonished  at  beholding  us  safely 
landed,  which  procured,  not  only  for  us,  but  for 
the  culprits,  our  companions,  a  cordial  and  hearty  • 
reception. 


h  it  a 
of  the 
in  em- 
at  the 
to  see 
,d  lis  in 
iertook 
lad  fol- 
ic port- 
happily 
.oubting 


I-W 


142 


franchere's  voyage. 


CHAPTER  XL 

Departure  of  Mr.  R.  Stuart  for  tho  Interior.— Occupations  at 
Astoria. — Arrival  of  Messrs.  Donald  M'Kenzie  and  Robert 
M'Lellan. —  Account  of  their  Journey. — Arrival  of  Mr.  Wilson 
P.  Hunt. 

The  natives  having  given  us  to  understand  that 
beaver  was  *7ery  abundant  in  the  country  wa- 
tered by  the  Wiiiamet,  Mr.  R.  Stuart  procured  a 
euide,  and  set  out,  on  the  5th  of  December,  ac- 
companied by  Messrs.  Fillet  and  M'Gillis  and  a 
few  of  the  men,  to  ascend  that  river  and  ascertain 
whether  or  no  ic  would  be  advisr.ble  to  establish  a 
trading-post  on  its  banks.  Mr.  R,  Bruguier  accom- 
panied them  to  follow  his  pursuits  as  a  trapper. 

The  season  at  which  we  expected  the  return 
of  the  Tonquin  was  now  past,  and  we  began  to 
regard  as  too  probable  the  report  of  the  Indians 
of  Cray's  Harbor.     We  still  flattered  ourselves, 


with( 

her, 

the 

^erenl 

a  dis« 

spirit] 

passet 

well 


f«li'l! 


THE   NEW   YEAR. 


143 


tions   at 

Robert 

.  Wilson 


ad  that 
ry  wa- 
cured  a 
ber,  ac- 
and  a 
certain 

Hisli  a 
accom- 
appcr. 

return 
egan  to 
Indians 
irselveB, 


notwithstanding,  with  the  hope  that  perhaps  that 
vessel  had  sailed  for  the  feast  Indies,  without 
touching  at  Astoria ;  but  this  was  at  most  a  con- 
jecture. 

The  25th,  Christmas-day,  passed  very  agree- 
ably :  we  treated  the  men,  on  that  day,  with  the 
best  the  establishment  afforded.  Although  that  was 
no  great  aifair,  they  seemed  well  satisfied ;  for  they 
had  been  restricted,  during  the  last  few  months, 
to  a  very  meagre  diet,  living,  as  one  may  say,  on 
sun-dried  fish.  On  the  27th,  the  schooner  having 
returned  from  her  second  voyage  up  the  river, 
we  dismantled  her,  and  laid  her  up  for  the  winter 
at  the  entrance  of  a  small  creek. 

The  weather,  which  had  been  raining,  almost 
without  interruption,  from  the  beginning  of  Octo- 
ber, cleared  up  on  the  evening  of  the  31st ;  and 
the  1st  January,  1812,  brought  us  a  clear  and 
serene  sky.  We  proclaimed  the  new  year  with 
a  discharge  of  artillery.  A  small  allowance  of 
spirits  was  served  to  the  men,  and  the  day 
passed  in  gaycty,  every  one  amusing  himself  as 
well  as  he  could. 


144 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


km 


The  festival  over,  our  people  resumed  their 
ordinary  occupations  :  while  some  cut  timber  for 
building,  and  others  made  charcoal  for  the  black- 
smith, the  carpenter  constructed  a  barge,  and  the 
cooper  made  barrels  for  the  use  of  the  posts  wo 
proposed  to  establish  in  the  interior.  On  the 
18th,  in  the  evening,  two  canoes  full  of  white 
men  arrived  at  the  establishment.  Mr.  M'Dou- 
gal,  the  resident  agent,  being  confined  to  his 
room  by  sickness,  the  duty  of  receiving  the 
strangers  devolved  on  me.  My  astonishment 
was  not  sliglit,  when  one  of  the  party  called  mo 
by  name,  as  he  extended  hi?  hand,  and  I  recog- 
nised Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie,  the  same  who  had 
quitted  Montreal,  with  Mr.  W.  P.  Hunt,  in  the 
month  of  July,  1810.  He  was  accompanied  by  a 
Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan,  a  partner,  Mr.  John  Reed,  a 
clerk,  and  eight  vo7/agenrs,  or  boatmen.  After 
having  reposed  themselves  a  little  from  their  fa- 
tigues, these  gentlemen  recounted  to  us  the  his- 
tory of  their  journey,  of  which  the  following  is 
the  substance. 
Messrs.  Hunt  and  M'Kenzie,  quitting  Canada, 


THE   OVERLAND    PARTY. 


145 


Loir 
for 
ack- 
Lthe 
;9  wo 
L  the 
white 
L'Dou- 

to  his 
ig  the 
shment 
lied  me 
I  recog- 
rho  had 
;,  m  the 
lied  by  a 
Eocd,a 
After 
their  fa- 
the  his- 
[lowing  is 

Canada, 


proceeded  by  way  of  Mackinac  and  St.  Louis, 
and  ascended  the  Missouri,  in  the  autumn  of 
1810,  to  a  place  on  that  river  called  Nadoicat/, 
■where  they  wintered.  Here  they  were  joined 
by  Mr.  R.  M'Lellan,  by  a  Mr.  Crooks,  and  a 
Mr.  Miiller,  traders  with  the  Indians  of  the 
South,  and  all  having  business  relations  with  Mr. 
Astor. 

In  the  spring  of  1811,  having  procured  two 
large  keel-boats,  they  ascended  the  Missouri 
to  the  country  of  the  Arikaras,  or  Rice  Indians, 
where  they  disposed  of  their  boats  and  a  great 
part  of  their  luggage,  to  a  Spanish  trader, 
by  name  Manuel  Lisa.  Having  purchased  of 
him,  and  among  the  Indians,  130  horses,  they 
resumed  their  route,  in  the  beginning  of  August, 
to  the  number  of  some  sixty-five  persons,  to  pro- 
ceed across  tlie  mountains  to  the  river  Columbia. 
Wishing  to  avoid  the  Blackfeet  Indians,  a  war- 
like and  ferocious  tribe,  who  put  to  death  all  the 
strangers  that  fall  into  their  hands,  they  directed 
their  course  southwardly,  until  they  arrived  at 
the  40th  degree  of  latitude.    Thonce  they  turned 


i 


14G 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


!!!!}! 


to  the  northwest,  and  arrived,  by-and-by,  at  an 
old  fort,  or  trading  post,  on  the  banks  ot  a  little 
river  flowing  west.  This  post,  which  was  then 
deserted,  had  been  established,  as  they  afterward 
learned,  by  a  trader  named  Henry.  Our  people, 
not  doubting  that  this  stream  would  conduct 
them  to  the  Columbia,  and  finding  it  navigable, 
constructed  some  canoes  to  descend  it.  Having 
left  some  hunters  (or  trappers)  near  the  old  fort, 
with  Mr.  Miller,  who,  dissatisfied  with  the  expe- 
dition, was  resolved  to  return  'o  the  United 
States,  the  i)arty  cml)arked  ;  but  very  soon  find- 
ing the  river  obstructed  with  rapids  and  water- 
falls, after  having  upset  some  of  the  canoes,  lost 
one  man  by  drowning,  and  also  a  part  of  their 
baggage,  perceiving  that  the  stream  was  imprac- 
ticable, they  resolved  to  abandon  their  canoes 
and  proceed  on  foot.  The  enterprise  was  one  of 
great  difficulty,  considering  the  small  stock  of 
provisions  they  had  left.  Nevertheless,  as  there 
was  no  tim^  to  lose  in  deliberation,  after  deposit- 
ing in  a  cache  the  superfious  part  of  their  bag- 
jingo,   they  divided    themselves   into  four   corn- 


left. 


THEIR  SUFFERINGS. 


147 


panics,  under  the  command  of  Messrs.  M'Kcnzic, 
Hunt,  M'Lcllan  and  Crooks,  and  proceeded  to 
follow  the  course  of  the  stream,  which  they 
named  Mad  river,  on  account  of  the  insurmount- 
able difficulties  ^t  presented.  Messrs.  M'Kcnzie 
and  M'Lcllan  took  the  right  bank,  and  Messrs. 
Hunt  and  Crook  the  left.  They  counted  on  ar- 
riving very  quickly  at  the  ColumV)ia ;  but  tlicy 
followed  this  ]\rad  river  for  twenty  days,  finding 
nothing  at  all  to  eat,  and  suffering  horribly  from 
thirst.  The  rocks  between  which  the  river  flows 
being  so  -teep  and  abrupt  as  to  prevent  their 
descending  to  quench  their  thirst  (so  that  even 
their  dogs  died  of  it),  they  suffered  the  torments 
of  Tantalus,  with  this  difference,  that  ho  had  the 
water  which  he  could  .  3t  reach  above  his  head, 
while  our  travellers  had  it  beneath  their  feet. 
Several,  not  to  die  of  this  raging  tliirst,  drank 
their  own  urine :  all,  to  appease  tlic  cravings  of 
hunger,  ate  beaver  skins  roasted  in  the  evening 
at  the  camp-fire.  They  even  were  at  last  con- 
strained to  eat  their  moccasins.  Those  on  the 
left,  or  southeast  bank,  suffered,  however,  less 


148 


pranchere's  voyage. 


J      ■  :  .' 


than  the  others,  because  they  occasionally  fell  in 
with  Indians,  utterly  wild  indeed,  and  who  fled 
at  their  approach,  carrying  off  their  horses.  Ac- 
cording to  all  appearances  these  savages  had 
never  seen  white  men.  Our  travellers,  when 
they  arrived  in  sight  of  the  camp  of  one  of  these 
wandering  hordes,  approached  it  with  as  much 
precaution,  and  with  the  same  stratagem  that 
they  would  have  used  with  a  troop  of  wild 
beasts.  Having  thus  surprised  them,  they 
would  fire  upon  the  horses,  some  of  which 
would  fall ;  but  they  took  care  to  leave  some 
trinkets  on  the  spot,  to  indemnify  the  owners 
for  what  they  had  taken  from  them  by  violence. 
This  resource  prevented  the  party  from  perishing 
of  hunger. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  having  overtaken  Mr,  M'Lellan, 
their  two  companies  pursued  the  journey  to- 
gether. Very  soon  after  this  junction,  they  had 
an  opportunity  of  approaching  sufficiently  near 
to  Mr.  Hunt,  who,  as  I  have  remarked,  was  on 
the  other  bank,  to  speak  to  him,  and  inform 
him  of  their  distressed  state.     Mr.  Hunt  caused 


THEIR  MISFORTUNES. 


149 


a  canoe  to  be  made  of  a  horse-hide  ;  it  was  not, 
as  one  may  suppose,  very  large ;  but  they  suc- 
ceeded, nevertheless,  by  that  means,  in  convey- 
ing a  little  horse-flesh  to  the  people  on  the  north 
bank.  It  was  attempted,  even,  to  pass  them 
across,  one  by  one  (for  the  skiff  would  not  hold 
any  more)  ;  several  had  actually  crossed  to  the 
south  side,  when,  unhappily,  owing  to  the  impet- 
uosity of  the  current,  the  canoe  capsized,  a  man 
was  drowned,  and  the  two  parties  lost  all  hope 
of  being  able  to  unite.  They  continued  their 
route,  therefore,  each  on  their  own  side  of  tlie 
river.  In  a  short  time  those  upon  the  north 
bank  came  to  a  more  considerable  stream,  which 
they  followed  down.  They  also  met,  very  op- 
portunely, some  Indians,  who  sold  them  a  num- 
ber of  horses.  They  also  encountered,  in  these 
parts,  a  young  American,  who  way  deranged,  but 
who  sometimes  recovered  his  reason.  This  young 
man  told  them,  in  one  of  his  lucid  intervals,  that 
he  was  from  Connecticut,  and  was  named  Archi- 
bald Pelton ;  that  he  had  come  up  the  Missouri 
with  Mr.  Henry ;  that  all  the  people  at  the  post 


150 


FUANCIIERE  S   YOYAGF:. 


(-.f 


established  by  tliat  trader  were  massacred  by  the 
Blackf'eet ;  that  he  alone  had  escaped,  and  had  been 
wandering,  for  three  years  since,  with  the  Snake 
Indians.*  Our  people  took  this  young  man  wi^h 
them.  Arriving  at  the  confluence  with  the  Co- 
lumbia, of  the  river  wliose  banks  tlicy  were  fol- 
lowing, they  perceived  that  it  was  the  same  which 
had  been  called  Lewis  river,  by  the  American 
captain  of  that  name,  in  1805.  Here, 'then,  they 
exchanged  their  remaining  horses  for  canoes, 
and  so  arrived  at  the  establislnnent,  safe  and 
sound,  it  is  true,  but  in  a  pitiable  condition  to 
see ;   their  clothes  being  nothing  but  fluttering 


rags. 


The  narrative  of  these  gentlemen  interested  us 
very  much.  They  added,  that  since  their  separ- 
ation from  Messrs.  Hunt  and  Crooks,  they  had 
neither  seen  nor  heard  aught  of  them,  and  be- 
lieved it  impossible  that  they  should  arrive  at 
the  establishment  before  spring.  They  were 
mistaken,  however,  for  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  on  the 

*  A  tliorouglily  savage  and  lazy  tribe,  inliabiting  the  plains  of 
the  Columbia,  between  the  43d  and  44th  degrees  of  latitude. 


01 
P 


DKSPATCUES    HOME. 


lol 


:1 


Ill9 


of 


loth  Februai'v,  "witii  thirty  iikmi,  one  woman,  aiul 
two  children,  liiiviug  k'ft  Mr.  Crooks,  with  five 
men,  among  the  Snakes.  They  miglit  have 
reached  Astoria  almost  as  soon  as  I^Ir.  M'Kenzie, 
but  they  had  passed  from  eight  to  ten  days  in 
the  midst  of  a  plain,  among  some  friendly  In- 
dians, as  well  to  recruit  their  strength,  as  to 
make  search  for  two  of  the  party,  who  had  been 
lost  in  the  woods.  Not  finding  them,  they  had 
resumed  their  journey,  and  struck  the  banks  of 
the  Columbia  a  little  lower  down  than  the  mouth 
of  Lewis  river,  where  Mr.  ^I'Kenzie  had  come 
out. 

The  arrival  of  so  great  a  number  of  persons 
would  have  embarrassed  us,  had  it  taken  })lace  a 
month  sooner.  Happily,  at  this  time,  the  natives 
were  bringing  in  fresh  fish  in  abundance.  Until 
the  30th  of  March,  we  were  occupied  in  prepar- 
ing triplicates  of  letters  and  other  necessary 
papers,  in  order  to  send  ^[r.  Astor  the  news  of 
our  arrival,  and  of  the  reunion-  of  the  two  ex- 
peditions. The  letters  were  intrusted  to  Mr. 
John  Reed,  who  quitted  Astoria  for  St.  Louis,  in 


m 


Mn 


152 


franchere's  voyage. 


company  with  Mr.  M'Lcllan — anuiMr  discon- 
tented partner,  who  wished  to  discc^ect  him- 
self with  the  association,  —  and  Mr.  R.  Stuart, 
who  was  conveying  two  canoc-loads  of  goods  for 
his  uncle's  post  on  the  Okenakan.  Messrs. 
Farnham  and  M'Gillis  set  out  at  the  same  time, 
with  a  guide,  and  were  instructed  to  proceed  to 
the   cache*  where  the  overland  travellers  had 

*  These  caches  are  famous  in  all  tlio  narratives  of  overland 
travel,  whether  for  trade  or  discovery.  The  manner  of  making 
them  is  described  by  Captains  Lewis  ai^d  Clarke,  as  follows :  they 
choose  a  dry  situation,  then  describing  a  circle  of  some  twenty 
inches  diameter,  remove  the  sod  as  gently  and  carefully  as  pos- 
sible. The  hole  is  then  sunk  a  foot  deep  or  more,  pei-pendicu- 
larly ;  it  is  then  worked  gradually  wider  as  it  descends,  till  it  be- 
comes six  or  seven  feet  deep,  and  shaped  like  a  kettle,  or  the 
lower  part  of  a  largo  still.  As  the  earth  is  dug  out,  it  is  handed 
up  in  a  vessel,  and  carefully  laid  upon  a  skin  or  cloth,  in  which  it 
is  carried  away,  and  usually  thrown  into  the  river,  if  there  be  one, 
or  concealed  so  as  to  leave  no  trace  of  it.  A  floor  of  three  or 
four  inches  thick  is  then  made  of  dry  sticks,  on  which  is  thrown 
hay  or  a  hide  perfectly  dry.  The  goods,  after  being  well  aired 
and  dried,  are  laid  down,  and  preserved  from  contact  with  the 
wall  by  a  layer  of  other  dried  sticks,  till  all  is  stowed  away.  Vv'hen 
the  hole  is  nearly  full,  a  hide  is  laid  on  top,  and  the  earth  is  thrown 
upon  this,  and  beaten  down,  until,  with  the  addition  of  the  sod 

first  removed,  the  whole  is  on  a  level  with  the  gixmnd,  and  there 

« 

remains  not  the  slightest  appearance  of  an  excavation.  The  first 
shower  ctTiicos  evoi-y  siffn  of  what  has  been  done,  and  such  a 
cache  is  safe  for  vears. — En. 


I   WRITE   HOME. 


153 


t  be- 

m 

r  the 

F 

nded 

ich  it 

!  one, 

ee  or 

irown 

^K    '.^' 

aired 

M 

h  tho 

When 

K.'  _f 

hrown 

le  8od 

11 

there 

K.;J 

le  first 

md\  a 

hidden  their  goods,  near  old  Fort  Henry,  on  the 
Mad  river.  I  profited  by  this  opportunity  to 
write  to  my  family  in  Canada.  Two  days  after, 
Messrs.  M'Kenzic  and  Matthews  set  out,  with 
five  or  six  men,  as  hunters,  to  make  an  excur- 
sion up  the  Willamet  river. 

7* 


>i 


154 


FRANCHERES   VOYAGE. 


CnAPTER   XII. 

Anival  of  llio  Ship  Bi-nvcr. —  Uiii'xpi'Cti'd  Rcfuin  of  Mrssrn,  D. 
Stuart,  R.  Stuart,  M'Lt'lland,  &r. —  Cause  of  that  Rintun.^ 
Ship  dischargint,'. —  Ntnv  Expodilious. —  Hostik'  Atliluch'  of  tho 
Nafivos. —  Drj)artur('  of  the  Bcavor, — Journeys  of  the  Author. 
—  His  Occupations  ttt  the  Estahlishment. 

From  the  departure  of  the  last  outfit  under 
Mr.  M'Kenzic,  nothhig  remarkable  took  place  at 
Astoria,  till  the  9tli  of  May.  On  that  day  we 
descried,  to  our  great  surprise  and  great  joy,  a 
sail  in  the  offing,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
Forthwith  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  despatched  in  a 
boat  to  the  cape,  to  make  the  signals.  On  tho 
morning  of  the  10th,  the  weather  being  fine  and 
the  sea  smooth,  the  boat  pushed  out  and  arrived 
safely  alongside.  Soon  after,  the  wind  springing 
up,  the  vessel  made  sail  and  entered  the  river, 
where  she  dropped  anchor,  in  Baker's  Bay,  at 
about  2  P.  M.     Toward  evening  the  boat  return- 


1( 
oi 

m 


hUPDEN    KKTUKN. 


106 


we 

ver. 
in  a 

the 

and 
L'ivcd 

-ivcr, 
ly,  at 
jturn- 


ed  to  the  Fort,  with  the  following  passengers : 
Messrs.  John  Clarke  of  Canada  (a  wintering 
partner),  Alfred  ^Seton,  (Jeorge  J'^hnaingcr,  a 
nephew  of  Mr.  Astor  (clerks),  and  two  men. 
We  learned  from  the.sc  gentlemen  that  the  vessel 
was  the  Bcaucr,  Cai)tain  CorncHus  Soic/cs,  and 
was  consigned  to  us  ;  that  she  left  New  York  on 
the  10th  of  October,  and  had  toiiclied,  in  the  pas- 
sage, at  Massa  Fuero  ond  tlio  Sandwich  Isles. 
Mr.  Clarke  handed  mc  letters  from  my  father  and 
from  several  of  my  friends :  I  thus  learned  thai 
death  had  deprived  me  of  a  beloved  sister. 

On  the  morning  of  the  Itth,  we  were  strangely 
surprised  by  the  return  of  Mes'^^rs.  D.  Stuart,  R. 
Stuarc,  R.  M'Lelland,  Crooks,  Reed,  and  Farn- 
ham.  This  return,  as  sudden  as  unlookcd  for, 
was  owing  to  an  unfortunate  adventure  which 
befell  the  party,  in  ascending'  the  river.  When 
they  reached  the  Falls,  where  the  portage  is  very 
long,  some  natives  came  with  their  horses,  to 
offer  their  aid  in  transporting-  the  goods.  Mr. 
R.  Stuart,  not  distrusting  them,  confided  to  their 
care   some   bales   of   merchandise,   which    they 


166 


FRAXCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


\'.     '  I 


mm 


packed  on  tlicir  liorscb :  but,  in  making  the  tran- 
sit, they  darted  up  a  narrow  path  among  the 
rocks,  and  fled  at  full  gallop  toward  the  prairie, 
without  its  l)cing  possible  to  overtake  them.  Mr. 
Stuart  had  several  shots  fired  over  their  heads, 
to  frighten  them,  ])ut  it  had  no  other  effect  than 
to  increase  their  speed.  Meanwhile  our  own  peo- 
ple continued  the  transportation  of  the  rest  of  the 
goods,  and  of  the  canoes;  but  as  there  was  a 
great  number  of  natives  about,  whom  the  success 
and  impunity  of  those  thieves  had  emboldened, 
Mr.  Stuart  thought  it  prudent  to  keep  watch 
over  the  goods  at  the  upper  end  of  the  portage, 
while  Messrs.  M'Lellan  and  Reed  made  the  rear- 
guard. The  last  named  gentleman,  who  carried, 
strapped  to  his  'iihoulders,  a  tin  box  containing 
the  letters  and  despatches  for  New  York  with 
which  he  was  charged,  happened  to  be  at  some  dis- 
tance from  the  former,  and  the  Indians  thought  it 
a  favorable  opportunity  to  attack  hin^  and  carry 
off  his  box,  the  brightness  of  which  no  doubt  had 
tempted  their  cupidity.  They  threw  themselves 
upon  him  so  suddenly  that  he  had  no  time  to 


INDIAN    RENCONTRE. 


157 


place  himself  on  the  defcii.dvc.  After  a  short 
resistance,  he  received  a  How  on  the  head  from 
a  war  club,  which  felled  him  to  the  ground,  and 
the  Indians  seized  upon  their  booty.  Mr.  ^I'Lel- 
lan  perceiving  what  was  done,  fired  his  carabine 
at  one  of  the  robbers  and  made  him  bite  the 
dust ;  llie  rest  took  to  flight,  but  carried  off  the 
box  notwithstanding,  lur.  M'Lellan  immediately 
ran  up  to  Mr.  Reed ;  but  finding  the  latter  mo- 
tionless and  bathed  in  blood,  he  hastened  to  re- 
join Mr.  Stuart,  urging  him  to  get  away  from 
these  robbers  and  murderers.  But  Mr.  Stuart, 
being  a  self-possessed  and  fearless  man,  would 
not  proceed  without  ascertaining  if  Mr.  Reed  were 
really  dead,  or  if  he  v:ere,  without  carrying  off 
his  body ;  and  notwithstanding  the  remonstrances 
of  Mr.  M'Lellan,  taking  his  way  back  to  the 
spot  where  the  latter  had  left  his  companion,  had 
not  gone  two  hundred  paces,  when  he  met  him 
coming  toward  them,  holding  his  bleeding  head 
with  both  hands.* 


^,i 


i-i 


*  Wo  vvnro  apprized  of  this  mifurtiinatp  rencontre  by  natives 
from  lip  the  river,  on  the  15th  of  April,  but  disbeliovcd  it.     [It  is 


r 


158 


FriAXCHERE  S    VOYA(;E. 


The  object  of  Mr.  Reed's  journey  being  de- 
feated by  tlie  loss  of  his  papers,  he  repaired,  with 
the  other  gentlemen,  to  ^Ir.  David  Stuart's 
trading  post,  at  Okenakan,  whence  thay  iiad  all 
set  out,  in  the  beginning  of  May,  to  return  to  As- 
toria. Coming  down  the  river,  they  fell  in  with 
Mr.  R.  Crooks,  and  a  man  named  John  Day.  It 
was  observed  in  the  preceding  chapter  that  Mr. 
Crooks  i'cmained  with  five  men  among  some  In- 
dians who  were  there  termed  friendly :  but  this 
gentleman  and  his  companion  were  the  only 
members  of  that  party  who  ever  reached  the  es- 
tablishment: and  they  too  arrived  in  a  most 
pitiable  condition,  the  savages  having  stripped 


curious  to  observe  the  want  of  military  sngacity  aiul  precaution 
wliich  characterized  the  operations  of  those  traders,  compared 
with  the  exact  calculations  of  danger  and  the  unfailing  measures 
of  defence,  employed  from  the  vei-y  outset  by  Captains  Lewis  and 
Clarke  in  tho  same  country.  There  was  one  very  audacious  at- 
tempt at  plunder  made  upon  tho  latter ;  but  besides  that  it  cost 
the  Indians  a  life  or  two,  tho  latter  lost  property  of  their  own  far 
exceeding  their  booty.  It  ia  tnie  that  tho  American  oflicers  had 
a  strong'cr  force  at  their  disposal  than  our  merchants  had,  and 
that,  too,  consisting  of  experienced  western  hunters  and  veteran 
soldiers  of  the  frontier;  but  it  is  not  less  interesting  to  noto  tlia 
difference,  because  it  ia  easy  to  account  for  it. —  J.  V.  M.] 


iuuj 
^vliil 


TIIK  TOXQUIX. 


150 


lution 
iparod 
lasiiros 
[is  and 
)us  nt- 
|it  cost 
kwn  far 
[m-3  had 
id,  and 
•etoran 

loto  the 


them  of  evcrytliing,  leaving  them  but  some  bits 
of  deerskin  to  cover  their  nakedness. 

On  the  12th,  the  schooner,  /which  had  been 
sent  down  the  river  to  the  Beaver's  anchorage, 
returned  witli  a  cargo  (being  the  stores  intended 
for  Astoria),  and  the  IbUowing  passengers:  to 
wit,  Messrs.  B.  CLapp,  J.  C.  Ilalsoy,  C.  A. 
Nichols,  and  R.  Cox,  clerks ;  five  Canadians, 
seven  Americans  (all  mechanics),  and  a  dozen 
Sandwich-islanders  for  the  service  of  the  estab- 
lishment. The  captain  of  the  Beaver  sounded 
the  channel  diligently  for  several  days  ;  but  find- 
ing it  scared}^  deep  enough  for  so  large  a  vessel, 
he  was  unwilling  to  l)ring  her  up  to  Astoria.  It 
was  necessary,  in  consequence,  to.  use  the  schoon- 
er as  a  lighter  in  discharging  the  sliip,  and  this 
tedious  operation  occupied  us  during  the  balance 
of  tliis  month  and  a  part  of  June. 

Captain  Sowles  and  Mr.  Clarke  confirmed  the 
report  of  the  destruction  of  the  Tonquin ;  they 
had  learned  it  at  Owhyhee,  by  means  of  a  letter 
which  a  certain  Captain  El)betts,  in  the  employ 
of  ^[r.  Astor,  had  left  there.     It  wa8  nevertheless 


160 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


resolved  that  Air.  Iliint  should  embark  upon  the 
"  Beaver,"  to  carry  out  the  plan  of  an  exact  com- 
mercial survey  of  the  coast,  which  Mr.  M'Kay 
had  been  sent  to  accomplish,  and  in  particular  to 
visit  for  that  purpose  the  Russian  establishments 
at  Chitka  sound. 

The  necessary  papers  having  been  prepared 
anew,  and  being  now  ready  to  expedite,  were 
confided  to  Mr.  R.  Stuart,  who  was  to  cross  the 
continent  in  company  with  Messrs.  Crooks  and 
R.  M'Lellan,  partners  dissatisfied  with  the  en- 
terprise, and  who  had  made  up  their  minds  to 
return  to  the  United  States.  Mr.  Clark,  accom- 
panied by  Messrs.  Fillet,  Donald,  M'Lellan, 
Farnham  and  Cox,  was  fitted  out  at  the  same 
time,  with  a  considerable  assortment  of  merchan- 
dise, to  form  a  new  establishment  on  the  Spokan 
or  Clarke's  river.  Mr.  M'Kenzie,  with  Mr.  Se- 
ton,  was  destined  for  the  borders  of  Lewis  river : 
while  Mr.  David  Stuart,  reinforced  by  Messrs. 
Matthews  and  M'Giilis,  was  to  explore  the  region 
lying  north  of  his  post  at  Okenakan.  All  these 
outfits  being  ready,  with  the  canoes,  boatmen. 


OUR   ALARM. 


161 


and  hunters,  the  flotilla  quitted  Astoria  on  the 
30th  of  June,  in  the  afternoon,  having  on  board 
sixty-two  persons.  The  sequel  will  show  the 
result  of  the  several  expeditions. 

During  the  whole  month  of  July^  the  natives 
(seeing  us  weakened  no  doubt  by  these  outfits), 
manifested  their  hostile  intentions  so  openly  that 
we  were  obliged  to  be  constantly  on  our  guard. 
We  constructed  covered  ways  inside  our  palisades, 
and  raised  our  bastions  or  towers  another  story. 
The  alarm  became  so  serious  toward  the  latter 
end  of  the  month  that  we  doubled  our  sentries 
day  and  night,  and  never  allowed  more  than  two 
or  three  Indians  at  a  time  within  our  gates. 

The  Beaver  was  ready  to  depart  on  her  coast- 
ing voyage  at  the  end  of  Juno,  and  on  the  1st  of 
July  Mr.  Hunt  went  on  board:  but  westerly 
winds  prevailing  all  that  month,  it  was  not  till 
the  4th  of  August  that  she  was  able  to  get  out 
of  the  river ;  being  due  again  by  the  end  of  Oc- 
tober to  leave  her  surplus  goods  and  take  in  our 
furs  for  market. 

The  months  of  August  and  September  were 


1 


m ' 


1(32 


-' . 


FHA NCll KIIK  S    VOYAGE. 


i 


1! 


employed  in  fiuisliiiiti;  ii  house  forty-five  feet  by 
thirty,  shintjrled  and  perfectly  tight,  as  a  hospital 
for  the  sick,  and  lodging  house  for  the  mechanics. 

Experience  having  taught  us  that  from  the  be- 
ginning of  October  to  the  end  of  January,  pro- 
visions were  brought  in  by  the  natives  in  very 
small  quantity,  it  was  thought  expedient  that  I 
should  proceed  in  the  schooner,  accompanied  by 
Mr.  Clapp,  on  a  trading  voyage  up  the  river  to 
secure  a  cargo  of  dried  lish.  We  left  Astoria 
on  the  1st  of  October,  with  a  small  assortment  of 
merchandise.  The  trip  was  highly  successful : 
we  found  the  game  very  abundant,  killed  a  great 
quantity  of  swans,  ducks,  foxes,  &c.,  and  re- 
turned to  Astoria  on  the  20th,  with  a  part  of  our 
venison,  wild  fowl,  and  bear  meat,  besides  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  smoked  salmon,  a  quantity  of 
the  Wapto  root  (so  called  by  the  natives),  which 
is  found  a  good  substitute  for  potatoes,  and  four 
hundred  and  fifty  skins  of  beaver  and  other  ani- 
mals of  the  furry  tribe. 

The  encouragement  derived  from  this  excursion 
induced  us  to  try  a  second,  and  I  set  off  this  time 


THE   RATNY   SEASON. 


103 


alone,  that  is,  with  a  crew  of  five  men  only,  and 
an  Indian  boy,  son  of  the  eld  chief  Comconily. 
This  second  voyage  jjroved  anything  but  agree- 
able. We  experienced  continual  rains,  and  the 
game  was  much  less  abundant,  while  the  natives 
had  mostly  left  the  river  for  their  wintering 
grounds.  I  succeeded,  nevertheless,  in  excliang- 
ing  my  goods  for  furs  and  dried  fish,  and  a  small 
supply  of  dried  venison :  and  retui-ned,  on  the 
loth  of  November,  to  Astoria,  where  the  want  of 
fresh  provisions  began  to  be  severely  felt,  so  that 
sevoi-al  of  the  men  were  attacked  with  scurvy. 

Messrs.  Halsey  and  Wallace  having  been  sent 
on  the  23d,  with  fourteen  men,  to  establish  a 
trading  post  on  the  Willamet,  and  Mr.  [M'Dougal 
being  confined  to  his  room  by  sickness,  Mr. 
Clapp  and  I  were  left  with  the  entire  charge  of 
the  post  'at  Astoria,  and  were  each  other's  only 
resource  for  society.  Happily  Mr.  Clapp  was  a 
man  of  amiable  character,  of  a  gay,  lively  humor, 
and  agreea])le  conversation.  In  tlie  intervals  of 
our  daily  duties,  we  amused  ourselves  with  music 
and  reading ;   having  some  instruments  and  a 


164 


FRANCHKUKS   VOYAGE. 


/ .  ■  ■ 


choice  1  library.  Otlierwiso  wc  should  have  passed 
our  time  in  a  state  of  insufferable  ennui,  at  this 
rainy  season,  in  the  midst  of  the  deep  mud  which 
surrounded  us,  and  which  interdicted  the  pleasure 
of  a  promenade  outside  the  buildings. 


MR.    M  KENZIE   RETURNS. 


165 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

Uneasiness  respecting  the  "Beaver." — News  of  the  Declaration 
of  War  between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  State*. —  C  > 
sequences  of  that  Intelligence. —  Different  Occurrences. —  Ani- 
val  of  two  Canoes  of  the  Northwest  Company. —  Prcparai.ons 
ibr  abandoning  the  Country.— Postponement  of  Departure. — 
Arrangement  with  Mr.  J.  G.  M'Tavish. 

The  months  of  October,  November,  ana  De- 
cember passed  away  without  any  news  of  the 
"  Beaver,"  and  we  began  to  fear  that  there  had 
happened  to  her,  as  to  the  Tonquin,  some  disas 
trous  accident.  It  will  be  seen,  in  the  following 
chapter,  why  this  vessel  did  not  return  to  Astoria 
in  the  autumn  of  1812. 

On  the  15th  of  January,  Mr.  M'Kcnzie  arrived 
from  the  interior,  having  abandoned  his  trading 
establishment,  after  securing  his  stock  of  goods 
in  a  cache.  Before  his  departure  he  had  paid  a 
visit  to  Mr.  Clark  on  the  Spokan,  and  while  there 


m) 


FRANTIIERKS    VOVAGE. 


.  «  'V'  4 

•  .V 

.1- 


hadloarnoil  the  news,  wliich  ho  came  to  aiinoimco 
to  us,  that  hostilities  had  actually  commenced 
between  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States. 
The  news  had  l)een  brought  by  some  gentlemen 
of  the  Nri'thwest  Company,  who  handed  to  them 
a  copy  of  the  Proclamation  of  the  President  to 
that  effect. 

When  we  learned  this  news,  all  of  us  at  Asto- 
ria who  were  British  subjects  and  Canadians, 
wished  ourselves  in  Canada;  but  we  could  not 
entertain  even  the  thouulit  of  transporting  our- 
selves thither,  at  least  immediately :  we  were 
separated  from  our  country  l)y  an  immense  space, 
and  the  difficulties  of  the  journey  at  this  season 
were  insuperable :  l)esides,  Mr.  Astor's  interests 
had  to  be  consulted  first.  We  held,  therefore,  a 
sort  of  council  of  war,  to  wliich  the  clerks  of  tho 
factory  were  invited  pro  form''/,  as  they  had  no 
voice  in  the  deliberations.  Having  maturely 
weighed  our  situation  ;  after  having  seriously  con- 
sidered that  being  almost  to  a  man  British  sub- 
jects, we  were  trading,  notwithstanding,  under  tho 
American  flag :  and  foreseeing  the  improbalulity, 


0V( 


IMrORTANT    RFPOLrTrON*. 


1(»7 


or  rather,  to  cut  tlio  niattor  sliort,  tlio  impopsihility 
that  ^h\  Astor  couM  send  us  furl  her  supplies  or 
reinlorcemcuts  Avliile  the  war  lasted,  as  most  of 
the  ports  of  tlie  United  States  wouhl  inevital>ly  bo 
blockaded  bv  tlie  British  ;  we  concluded  to  aban- 
don  tlieestaldishniont  in  the  ensuinii:  sprinu^,  or  at 
latest,  in  the  beirinning  of  tlie  summer.  AVe  did 
not  communicate  these  resolutions  to  the  men, 
lest  they  should  in  consequence  abandon  their 
labor :  but  we  discontinued,  from  that  moment, 
our  trade  with  the  natives,  except  for  provisions  ; 
as  well  because  we  had  no  longer  a  largo  stock 
of  goods  on  hand,  as  for  the  reason  that  we  had 
already  more  furs  than  wo  coukl  carry  away 
overland. 

So  long  as  we  expected  the  return  of  the  ves- 
sel, we  had  served  out  to  the  peo})le  a  regular 
supply  of  bread :  we  found  ourselves  in  conse- 
quence, very  short  of  provisions,  on  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  M'Kenzie  and  his  men.  This  augmenta- 
tion in  the  number  of  mouths  to  be  fed  compelled 
us  to  reduce  the  ration  of  each  man  to  four  ounces 
of  flour  and  half  a  pound  of  dried  fish  pf^r  diem: 


168 


FRANCHERE  .S    VOYAGE. 


and  even  to  send  a  portion  of  the  liands  to  pass 
the  rest  of  the  winter  with  Messrs.  Wallace  and 
Halsey  on  the  Willamct,  whore  ^ame  was  ])lenty. 

Meanwhile,  the  sturgeon  liaving  begun  to  enter 
the  river,  I  left,  on  the  l-3th  of  February,  to  fish 
for  them  ;  and  on  the  15th  sent  the  first  boat-load 
to  the  establishment ;  which  proved  a  very 
timely  succor  to  the  men,  who  for  several  days 
had  broken  off  work  from  want  of  sufficient  food. 
I  formed  a  camp  near  Oak  Point,  whence  I  con- 
tinued to  despatch  (;anoc  after  canoe  of  fine  fresh 
fish  to  Astoria,  and  Mr.  ISDDougal  sent  to  me 
thither  all  the  men  who  wore  sick  of  scurvy,  for 
the  re-establishment  of  their  health. 

On  the  2Cth  of  March,  Messrs.  Reed  and  Seton, 
who  had  led  a  part  of  our  men  to  the  post  on  the 
Willamet,  to  subsist  them,  returned  to  Astoria, 
with  a  supply  of  dried  venison.  These  gentlemen 
spoke  to  us  in  glowing  terms  of  the  country  of 
the  Willamet  as  charming,  and  abounding  in  bea- 
ver, elk,  and  deer ;  and  informed  us  that  Messrs. 
Wallace  and  Halsey  had  constructed  a  dwelling 
and  trading  house,  on  a  great  prairie,  about  one 


a  I 
ofl 


•■  ■ »  ^ 


TWO    f'AXOnS    ARRIVE. 


ir,o 


SB 

ad 

ty. 
iter 
iisU 
load 
very 
days 
food. 
I  con- 
3  frcs^i 
to  me 
vy,  for 


huiulrod  and  fifiy  mllos  fi'oin  tho  confluonce  of 
that  riv(M"  witli  the  Cnlimibiii.  yiv.  ^IKciizlc  imd 
his  party  quitted  us  a^raiu  ou  tlu,'  ol.>t,  to  uialvo 
knowu  tho  resolutions  recently  adopted  at  A.-^to- 
ria,  to  the  j:^entlemen  who  were  wintering  in  tlie 
interior. 

On  the  11th  of  April  two  bireli-hark  eanocs, 
bearing  the  Britisli  flag,  arrived  at  the  faetory. 
Thej'  were  commanded  by  Messr.s.  J.  0.  M-Tav- 
ish  ani  Joseph  Larofjue,and  manned  by  nineteen 
Canadian  coijag-curs.  They  laud.^d  on  a  j)oint 
of  land  under  the  guns  of  the  fort,  and  formed 
their  camp.  Wo  invited  tliese  gentlemen  to  our 
quarters  and  learned  from  them  tli(^  object  of  their 
visit.  Thevhad  come  to  await  the  arrival  of  the 
ship  Isaac  7bf/^/,  despatched  from  (.'anada  by  the 
Northwest  Com])any,  in  Octo)»er,  ISll,  witli  fui's, 
and  from  England  in  ^larch,  iSlii,  with  a  cargo 
of  suitable  merchandise  for  th(;  Indian  trade. 
They  had  orders  to  wait  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia liU  the  month  of  July,  and  then  to  return, 
if  the  vessel  did  not  make  her  a})pearance  by  that 

time.     They  also  informed  us   that  the  natives 

8 


170 


FRANCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


i  ilNi; 


near  Lewis  river  had  shown  them  fowling-pieces, 
gun-flints,  lead,  and  powder ;  and  that  they  had 
communicated  this  news  to  Mr.  ^I'Kenzie,  pre- 
suming that  the  Indians  had  discovered  and  plun- 
dered his  cache;  which  turned  out  afterward  to 
he  the  case. 

The  month  of  May  was  occupied  in  prepara- 
tions for  our  departure  from  the  Columbia.  On 
the  25th,  Messrs.  Wallace  and  Ilalsey  returned 
from  their  winter  quarters  v/ith  seventeen  packs 
of  furs,  and  thirtv-two  bales  of  dried  venison. 
The  last  article  was  received  with  a  great  deal  of 
pleasure,  as  it  would  infallibly  be  needed  for  the 
journey  we  were  about  to  undertake.  Messrs. 
Clarke,  D.  Stuart  and  M'Kenzie  also  arrived,  in 
the  beginning  of  June,  with  one  hundred  and  forty 
packs  of  furs,  the  fruit  of  two  years'  trade  at  the 
post  on  the  0/cenakan,  and  one  year  on  the 
Spokan.* 

The  wintering  partners  (that  is  to  say,  Messrs. 
Clarke  and  David  Stuart)  dissenting  from  the 

*  Tlio  profits  of  the  la.ot  rstablislimont  wrro  slender;  because 
fho  people  ciiguged  nt  it  were  obliged  to  subsist  on  horse-flesh, 
and  they  ate  ninety  horses  diiring  the  winter. 


VG 


Mi 

tll( 

fro 
j'ni 


PLANS   DEFERRED. 


171 


id 
re- 
la- 
te 

[ira- 

On 
ruiid. 
►acks 
lison. 
jal  of 
bribe 

essra. 

ed,  iu 
forty 
at  the 
Dn  tlio 

Sklcssrs. 
)m  the 

because 


proposal  to  abandon  the  country  as  soon  as  wc 
intended,  the  thing  being  (as  they  observed)  im- 
practicable, from  the  want  of  provisions  for  the 
journey  and  horses  to  transport  the  goods,  the 
project  was  deferred,  as  to  its  execution,  till  the 
following  April.  So  these  gentlemen,  having 
taken  a  new  lot  of  mercliandise,  set  out  again  for 
their  trading  posts  on  tlie  Tth  of  July.  J5ut  Mr. 
M'Kenzie,  whose  goods  had  been  ])illaged  by  the 
natives  (it  will  be  remembered),  remained  at 
Astoria,  and  was  occupied  with  the  care  of  col- 
lecting as  great  a  quantity  as  possible  of  dried 
salmon  from  the  Indians,  He  made  seven  or 
eight  voyages  up  the  river  for  that  purpose, 
while  we  at  the  Fort  were  busy  in  baling  the  bea- 
ver-skins and  other  furs,  in  suitable  packs  for 
horses  to  carr).  Mr.  Reed,  in  the  meantime, 
was  sent  on  to  the  mountain-passes  where  ISlv. 
Miller  had  been  left  with  the  trappers,  to  winter 
there,  and  to  procure  as  many  horses  as  he  could 
from  the  natives  for  our  use  in  the  contemplated 
journey.  lie  was  furnished  for  this  expedition 
with  three  Canadians,  and  a  half-breed  hunter 


'J-  I 


1-  • 


172 


FRANTIIERi:  S   VOYAGE. 


/   ' 


named  Daion,  the  latter  accompanied  by  his  wife 
and  two  children.  This  man  came  from  the  lower 
Missouri  with  Mr.  Hunt  in  1811-12. 

Our  object  being  to  provide  ourselves,  before 
quitting  the  country,  with  the  food  and  horses 
necessary  for  the  journey ;  in  order  to  avoid  all 
opposition  on  the  part  of  tlio  Northwest  Company, 
we  entered  into  an  arrangement  with  Mr.  M'Tav- 
ish.  This  gentleman  having  represented  to  us 
that  he  was  destitute  of  the  necessary  goods  to 
procure  wherewith  to  sulisist  his  party  on  tlieir 
way  homeward,  we  supplied  him  from  our  ware- 
house, payment  to  be  made  us  in  the  ensuing 
spring,  either  in  furs  or  in  bills  of  exchange  on 
their  house  in  Canada. 


hi 

ill 
it, 


A  STRAXOE  SHIP. 


173 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

» 

Amval  of  tViP  Ship  "  AIl)ntn)ss." — Reasons  for  the  Non-Appoar- 
ancf  of  tho  Bi-nvor  at  Astoria. —  Fruitless  Attempt  of  Captain 
Smith  on  a  Former  Occnsion. —  Astonishmrnt  and  Rofrret  of  Mr. 
Hunt  at  the  Resohilion  of  tlie  Partners. —  His  Departure. —  Nar- 
rative of  the  Destrurtion  of  the  Tonquin. —  Causes  of  that  Dis- 
nbter.—  Refleelions. 


■\ 


Ox  tlie  4th  of  Auj^ust,  contrary  to  all  expecta- 
tion, we  saw  a  sail  at  the  nioiith  of  the  river. 
One  of  our  gentlemen  immediately  got  into  the 
barge,  to  ascertain  her  nationality  and  object :  but 
before  ho  had  fairly  crossed  the  river,  we  srtw 
her  pass  the  bcu'  and  direct  her  course  toward 
Astoria,  as  if  she  were  conunanded  by  a  captain 
to  whom  the  intricacies  of  the  channel  were  fa- 
miliar. I  had  stayed  at  the  Fort  with  Mr.  Clapp 
and  four  men.  As  soon  as  v»'e  Juui  recognised 
the  American  flag,  not  doubting  any  longer  that 
it  was  a  ship  destined  for  the  factory,  we  saluted 


174 


FRANC HERE  S   VOYAGE. 


her  with  three  guns.  She  came  to  anchor  over 
against  tlie  fort,  but  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  and  returned  our  salute.  In  a  sh.ort  time 
a%r,  we  saw,  or  rather  we  heard,  the  oars  of  a 
boat  (for  it  was  already  niglit)  tliat  came  toward 
us.  We  expected  her  a])proach  with  impatience, 
to  know  who  tlie  stranger  was,  and  what  news 
she  brought  us.  Soon  we  were  relieved  from 
our  uncertainty  l)y  the  appearance  of  Mr.  Hunt, 
who  informed  us  that  the  sliip  was  called  tlie 
Albatross  and  was  commanded  by  Captain  Smith. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  Mr.  Hunt  had 
sailed  from  Astoria  on  board  tlie  "'•  Beaver,"  on 
the  4th  of  August  of  the  |u*oceding  year,  and 
should  have  returned  wl*i  !':at  vessel,  in  the 
month  of  Octol)er  of  the  same  vear.  AVe  testified 
to  him  our  surprise  that  he  had  not  returned  at 
the  time  appointed,  and  expressed  the  fears  which 
we  had  entertained  in  regard  to  his  fate,  as  well 
as  that  of  the  Beaver  itself:  and  in  reply  he  ex- 
plained to  us  the  reasons  why  neither  he  nor 
Captain  Sowlcs  had  been  able  to  fulfil  the  prom- 
ise which  they  had  made  us. 


Mil.    \tVST  S   STORY. 


17;] 


^.-•m 


ho 

me 

X  a 

ard 

ncc, 

icws 

from 
luut, 
d  the 

it  had 


i^ 


ori. 


,r,  and 
111  the 
.cstificd 
iruod  at 
s  which 
as  weU 
|y  he  cx- 
hc  nor 
[lie  pvom- 


After  having  got  clear  of  the  river  Columbia, 
they  had  sciid<led  to  the  north,  and  had  repaired 
to  the  Russian  post  of  Chitka,  where  they  had 
exchanged  a  part  of  their  goods  for  furs.  They 
had  made  with  the  governor  of  that  establishment, 
Barnoff  by  name,  arrangements  to  supply  him 
regularly  with  all  the  goods  of  which  he  had  need, 
and  to  send  hun  every  year  a  vessel  for  that  pur- 
pose, as  well  as  for  the  transportation  of  his  sur- 
plus furs  to  the  East  Indies.  They  had  then 
advanced  still  further  to  the  north,  to  the  coast 
of  Kamskatka ;  and  l)eing  there  informed  that 
some  Kodiak  hunters  had  been  left  on  some  ad- 
jacent isles,  called  the  islands  of  St.  Peter  and 
St.  Paul,  and  that  these  hunters  had  not  been 
visited  for  three  years,  they  determined  to  go 
thither,  and  having  reached  those  isles,  they 
opened  a  l)risk  trade,  and  secured  no  loss  than 
eighty  thousand  skins  of  the  South-sini  seal. 
These  operations  had  consumed  a  great  deal  of 
time  :  the  season  was  already  far  advanced ;  ice 
was  forming  around  them,  and  it  was  not  with- 
out having  incurred   considerable  dangers  that 


•'■Ml 

1 

in 

^fl^^^H^B 

H 


176 


FRAXniERE's   VOYAGE. 


they  succeeded  in  making  tlieir  way  out  of  those 
latitudes.  Ilavino:  extricated  themselves  from 
the  frozen  «cas  of  the  nortli,  but  in  a  shattered 
condition,  tliey  deemed  it  more  prudent  to  run 
for  the  Sandwich  isles,  where  they  arrived  after 
enduring  a  succession  of  severe  gales.  Here  Mr. 
Hunt  disembarked,  with  the  men  who  had  ac- 
companied him,  and  who  did  not  form  a  part  of 
tlie  ship's  crew  ;  and  the  vessel,  after  undergoing 
the  necessary  repairs,  set  sail  for  Canton. 

^rr.  Ilu't  had  then  passed  nearly  six  months 
at  the  Sandwich  islands,  expecting,  the  annual 
ship  from  New  York,  and  never  imagining  that 
Avar  had  been  declared.  But  at  last,  weary  of 
waiting  so  long  to  no  purpose,  he  had  bought  a 
small  scliooner  of  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  isle  of 
AVahoo,  and  was  engaged  in  getting  her  ready  to 
sail  for  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  when  four 
sails  hove  in  sight,  and  presently  came  to  anchor 
in  Olictih/  hay.  Re  immediately  went  on  board 
of  ono  of  tliom,  and  learned  that  tliey  came  from 
the  Indies,  wlience  tliey  had  sailed  precipitately, 
to  avoid  the  Euii'li.sh  cruisers.     Tie  also  learned 


THE    ALBATROSS  —  HER   CAPTAIN. 


177 


5se 
om 
red 
run 
ifter 
Mr. 
[  ac- 
rtof 


going 


lontha 
xnnual 
o-  that 
arv  of 
judit  a 


isle  of 
laely  to 
cu  four 

anclior 
,n  board 
lue  from 
pitalcly, 

learned 


from  the  ca])tiiiu  of  the  vessel  he  boarded,  tliat 
the  Beaver  had  arrived  in  Canton  suuie  days  be- 
fore the  news  of  tlu3  dechiration  of  war.  Tliis 
Captain  Smith,  moreover,  had  on  board  some 
cases  of  nankeens  and  other  goods  shii)ped  l)y 
Mr.  Astor's  agent  at  Canton  for  us.  Mr.  Hunt 
then  cliartered  the  Albatross  to  take  hiin  witli 
his  people  and  the  goods  to  the  Cobnnl>ia.  Tiiat 
gentleman  had  not  been  idle  during  tlie  time  tlmt 
he  sojourned  at  Wahoo :  lie  brouglit  us  85  bar- 
rels of  salt  pork  or  beef,  nine  tierees  of  rice,  a 
great  quantity  of  dried  Taro,  and  a  good  supply 
of  salt. 

As  I  knew  the  channel  of  the  river,  I  went  on 
board  the  Albatross,  and  piloted  her  to  the  old 
anchorage  of  the  Tonquin,  under  the  guns  of  the 
Fortj  in  order  to  facilitate  the  landing  of  the 
goods. 

Captain  Smith  informed  us  that  in  I.SIO,  a 
year  before  the  founding  of  our  establishment,  ho 
had  entered  the  river  iii  tlie  same  vessel,  and 
ascended  it  in  boats  as  far  as  Oak  Point ;    and 

that  he  had  attempted  to  form  an  estaldisliment 

8* 


178 


francherp:  s  voyage. 


there  ;  ])ut  the  spot  which  he  chose  for  buildinpr, 
and  on  which  he  liad  even  commenced  fencing 
for  a  garden,  \)q\\\^  overflowed  in  the  snmmer 
freshet,  he  had  been  forced  to  abandon  his  j<roj- 
ect  and  re-embark.  We  liad  seen,  in  fact,  at 
Oak  Point,  some  traces  of  this  projected  estab- 
lishment. The  liold  manner  in  which  this  ca])- 
tain  had  entered  the  river  was  now  accounted 
for. 

Captain  Smith  had  chartered  liis  vessel  to  a 
Frenchman  named  Demcstre^  who  was  then  a 
passenger  on  board  of  her,  to  go  and  take  a  car- 
go of  sandal  wood  at  tlie  Marquesas^  where  that 
gentleman  liad  left  some  men  to  collect  it,  the 
y^'}"r  l»efor<'.  He  could  not,  therefore,  comply 
with  tlie  request  we  made  him,  to  remain  dur- 
ing the  summer  with  us,  in  order  to  transport 
our  goods  and  people,  as  soon  as  they  could  be 
got  together,  to  the  Sandwich  islands. 

Mr.  Hunt  ^»v  as  surprised  beyond  measure,  when 
we  informed  him  of  tlie  resolution  we  had  taken 
of  al)and()ning  the  country:  he  blamed  us  severe- 
ly for  having  acted  with  so  much  precipitation, 


AfR.    HUNT   SAILS. 


170 


pointing  out  that  the  success  of  the  late  coasting 
voyage,  and  the  arrangements  we  had  made  with 
the  Russians,  promised  a  most  advantageous 
trade,  which  it  was  a  thousand  pities  to  sacrifice, 
and  lose  the  fruits  of  the  hardships  he  had  en- 
dured and  the  dangers  he  had  braved,  at  one  fell 
swoop,  by  this  rash  measure.  Xcvcrthclcss, 
seeing  the  partners  were  determined  to  abide  by 
their  first  resolution,  and  not  bcinu-  able,  bv  him- 
self  alone,  to  fulfil  his  engagements  to  Governor 
Barnofi",  he  consented  to  embark  once  more,  in 
order  to  seek  a  vessel  to  transport  our  heavy 
goods,  and  such  of  us  as  wished  to  return  by  sea. 
He  sailed,  in  fact,  on  tlic  Albatross,  at  the  end 
of  the  month.  My  friend  Chipp  embarked  witli 
him :  they  were,  in  the  first  instance,  to  run 
do^vn  the  coast  of  California,  in  tlie  hope  of  meet- 
ing there  some  of  tlic  American  vessels  which 
frequently  visit  that  coast  to  ol)tain  provisions 
from  the  Spaniards. 

Some  cHys  after  the  departure. of  Mr.  Hunt, 
the  old  one-eyed  cliief  Comcomly  came  to  tell  us 
that  an  Indian  of  Grat/'s  Harbor,  wlio  had  sailed 


180 


FRANTHEHE  3    VOYAGE. 


;k'^ 


im 


oil  tilt'  Tonquiii  in  l-Sll.  mid  wlio  wan  the  only 
Soul  tliiit  had  escujK'd  the  nias^sacre  of  the  crow 
of  tlial  unturtunate  vessel,  had  returned  to  his 
tribe.  As  the  distanec  from  tiie  I^iver  Ci)luinl»ia 
to  Gray's  Harbor  was  not  i>reat,  we  sent  for  this 
native.  At  first  ho  ina<hj  consideral)le  diffienllv 
al)out  follon-iiig  our  poo[>le,  but  was  finally  per- 
suaded. He  arrived  at  Astoria,  and  related  to 
us  the  eireunistances  of  tliat  sad  catastroi>he, 
nearly  as  follows  :* 

"After  I  had  embarked  on  the  Tonqnin,"  said 
he,  ''that  vessel  sailed  for  Nootlc(i.\  Having 
arrived  opposite  a  largo  village  called  NeirUi/, 
we  dropped  anchor.  Tiie  natives  having  invited 
Mr.  M'Kay  to  land,  he  did  so,  and  was  received 
in  the  most  cordial  manner:  they  even  kept  him 
several  days  at  their  village,  and  made  him  lie, 

*  It  bring  undrrstooil,  (if  course,  that  I  i«Mi(l(>r  iiitu  rivilizcd 
cxpros-iioiis  tlif  lanpiinpc  nf  this  haihiiriiin,  luid  jcpri'scnt  l>y 
words  nnd  phraaos  wliat  ho  coidd  otdy  nmvry  by  <rr»turr'8  or  liy 
»is;ii9.  [Tin"  iinivr'v  <if  these  iiDtfS,  nnd  <it'  ihf  iiaiiativt*  in  tlieso 
j'atisa^rc,  is  aniusini;. — Er>.  j 

t  A  great  villagt'  or  rncmnpniont  of  Inch'nns,  iinnng  wliotn  tho 
Spaniards  had  sent  iiiir  sioiiarirs  under  the  condiiet  of  Signor 
Quadra  ;  but  wlience  tho  latter  were  cliased  by  Captain  Vancouver, 
in  1792,  as  mentioned  in  tho  Introduction. 


r.vTK  OF  Tirr:  roxgrix. 


181 


lit     I'V 

or  I'V 
thesP 


bin 


tho 


louver, 


every  iii«iiit,  (ui  a  cuiich  of.-ea-otler  sUiii.s.  Mean- 
while tlie  eaj)tiiiii  was  eiiiraucd  in  tradinjj;-  willi 
such  ul'  Uu)  natives  as  resorted  to  his  shij):  hut 
liaving  had  a  diftieulty  witli  one  of  the  i)rin('ipal 
chiefs  in  regard  t<>  the  price  of  certain  goods,  lie 
ended  by  putting  the  latter  out  of  the  shij),  and 
in  the  act  of  so  re})ening  him,  strucic  him  on  tlio 
face  with  the  roll  of  furs  which  lie  had  i)ronght 
to  trade.  This  act  was  regarded  hy  that  chief 
and  his  followers  as  the  most  grievous  insult,  and 
they  resolved  to  take  vengeance  for  it.  To  arrive 
more  surely  at  their  purpose,  tlioy  disi-\jmltled 
tlu'ir  resentment,  and  came,  as  usual,  on  hoard 
the  ship.  One  day,  very  early  in  the  morning,  a 
large  pirogue,  containing  ahout  a  score  of  na- 
tives, came  alongside :  eveiy  man  had  in  his 
hand  a  packet  of  furs,  and  held  it  over  his  head 
as  a  sign  that  thoy  came  to  trade.  The  watch 
let  them  come  on  deck.  A  little  after,  arrived 
a  second  pirogue,  carrying  about  as  many  men 
as  the  other.  The  sailoi  -  l)elieved  that  these 
also  came  to  exchange  their  furs,  and  allowed 
them  to  mount  the  ship's  side  like  the  first.  Very 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0    !pa  111^ 

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Sciences 
Corporation 


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WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

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r II A  NC  H  EIIE  S    VO  Y A  G  E . 


soon,  the  pirogues  tliu-  siieccccliiig  one  another, 
the  crew  saw  themselves  Hurrounded  by  a  multi- 
tude of  savages,  who  eaine  upon  the  deek  from  all 
sides.  Becoming  alarmed  at  the  appearance  of 
things,  they  went  to  ap])rize  the  captain  and  Mr, 
M'Kay,  wlio  hastened  to  the  ])oop.  I  was  with 
them,"  said  the  narrator,  "  and  fearing,  from  the 
great  multitude  of  In<lians  whom  I  saw  already 
on  the  deck,  and  from  the  movements  of  those  on 
shore,  who  were  huriying  to  embark  in  their 
canoes,  to  approach  the  vessel,  and  from  the 
•women  beinu;  left  in  cliara'C  of  the  canoes  of  those 
who  had  arrived,  that  some  evil  design  was  on 
foot,  1  connnunicated  my  suspicions  to  Mr. 
M'Kay,  who  liimself  spoke  to  the  captain.  The 
latter  affected  an  air  of  security,  and  said  that 
with  the  firearms  on  board,  there  was  no  reason 
to  fear  even  a  greater  number  of  Indians.  Mean- 
while these  gentlemen  had  come  on  deck  un- 
armed, without  even  their  sidcarms.  The  trade, 
nevertheless,  did  not  advance ;  the  Indians  of- 
fered less  than  was  asked,  and  pressing  with 
their  furs  close  to  the  captain,  Mr.  M'Kay,  and 


a 
th 

'Vl 
Wll 


TItE   MASSACIIK. 


183 


er, 

Ati- 
all 

^  of 

Mr. 

with 

1  tho 

'cady 

se  on 
their 

(n  the 

■  those 

ras  on 
Mr. 
Tho 
d  that 
reason 
Mcan- 
ck  nn- 
trade, 

ans  of- 
(T  ^vith 
ay, and 


Mr.  Lewi:2,  repeated  the  word  Makoke !  Md- 
koke  !  ^'  Trade  I  '\\\u\(\ !"  I  urtred  the  frentlemen 
to  put  to  ,<ea,  aiitl  llu^  captain,  at  last,  seeiui:;  tho 
nuinl)er  of  Indians  increase  every  moment,  al- 
lowed  himself  to  ))e  pin'suaded :  he  ordered  a 
part  of  the  crew  to  raise  the  anchor,  and  the  rest 
to  go  aloft  and  unfurl  the  sails.  At  the  same 
time  he  warned  the  natives  to  withdraw,  as  the 
slii})  was  going'  to  sea.  A  fresh  breeze  was  then 
springing  uj),  and  in  a  few  moments  moi'c  their 
prey  would  have  escaped  them  ;  l)ut  immediately 
on  receiving  this  notice,  by  a  preconcerted  signal, 
the  Indians,  with  a  terrific  yell,  dicw  forth  the 
knives  and  war-bludgeons  they  had  concealed  in 
their  bundles  of  furs,  and  rushed  upon  tlie  crew 
of  the  ship.  Mr.  Lewis  was  struck,  and  fell  over 
a  l)ale  of  blankets.  ]Mr.  M'lvay,  however,  was 
tlio  first  victim  whom  they  sacrificed  to  their  fury. 
Two  savages,  whom,  from  the  crown  of  the  poop, 
vviiei'o  I  was  seated,  I  had  seen  follow  this  mm- 
il  Mmm  step  by  step,  now  cast  themselves  upon 
liiin,  and  haviim"  ii'iven  him  a  blow  on  the  head 
with  a  potumaa^an  Ca  kind  of  sabre  which  is  de- 


184 


fraxchere's  voyage. 


scribed  a  little  Jjelow),  felled  him  to  the  deck, 
then  took  liim  up  and  flung  him  into  the  sea, 
where  the  women  left  in  charge  of  the  canoes, 
quickly  finished  him  with  their  paddles.  Another 
set  flung  themselves  upon  the  captain,  who  de- 
fended himself  for  a  long  time  with  his  pocket- 
knife,  but,  overpowered  by  numbers,  perished 
also  under  tlio  blows  of  tliesc  murderers.  I  next 
saw  (and  that  was  the  last  occurrence  of  which  I 
was  witness  l^efore  quitting  the  ship)  the  sailors 
Avho  were  aloft,  slip  down  by  the  rigging,  and 
get  below  through  the  steerage  hatchway.  They 
were  five,  I  think,  in  number,  and  one  of  them, 
in  descending,  received  a  knife-stab  in  the  back. 
I  then  jumped  overboard,  to  escape  a  similar  fate 
to  that  of  the  captain  and  ]\Ir.  M'Kay :  the  wo- 
men in  the  canoes,  to  whom  I  surrendered  my- 
self as  a  slave,  took  mc  in,  and  bade  me  hide 
myself  under  some  mats  which  were  in  the  pi- 
rogues ;  which  I  did.  Soon  after,  I  heard  the 
discharge  of  firearms,  immediately  upon  which 
the  Indians  fied  from  the  vessel,  and  pulled  for 
the  shore  as  fast  as  possible,  nor  did  they  venture 


THE    KXPLOSIO.V. 


185 


sea, 

lOCS, 

)t\icr 
)  do- 
)clvet- 
•islicd 
[  next 
Incli  I 
sailors 
;ig,  and 


to  go  alongside  llie  ship  again  the  whole  of  that 
day.  The  next  day,  having  seen  four  men  lower  a 
boat,  and  pull  away  i'roin  the  ship,  they  sent  some 
pirogues  in  cliase :  but  Avlietlier  those  men  were 
overtaken  and  murdered,  or  gained  the  open  sea 
and  perished  there,  I  never  could  learn.  Noth- 
ing more  was  seen  stirring  on  board  tlie  Tonquin ; 
the  natives  pulled  cautiously  around  lier,  and 
some  of  the  more  daring  went  on  board  ;  at  last, 
the  savao'es,  linding  themselves  absolute  masters 
of  tlie  sliip,  rushed  on  board  in  a  crowd  to  pillage 
her.  But  very  soon,  when  there  w^rc  about  four 
or  five  hundred  either  luiddhid  together  on  deck, 
or  clinging  to  the  sides,  all  eager  for  plunder,  the 
ship  blew  up  with  a  liorril)le  noise.  "  I  was  on 
the  shore,"  said  the  Indian, "  when  the  explosion 
took  place,  saw  the  great  volume  of  smoke  burst 
forth  in  he  spot  Avhere  the  ship  had  been,  and 
high  in  the  air  above,  arms,  legs,  heads  and 
bodies,  flymg  in  every  direction.  The  tribe  ac- 
knowledo-ed  a  loss  of  over  two  hundred  of  their 
people  on  that  occasion.  As  for  me  I  remained 
their  prisoner,  and  have  been  their  slave  fur  two 


18^> 


vn\ xcM kre's  voyage. 


years.  It  is  but  now  that  I  have  been  ransomed 
by  ray  friends.  I  have  told  you  the  truth,  and 
hope  you  will  acquit  me  of  having  in  any  way 
participated  in  that  l)loody  affair." 

Our  Indian  having  finished  his  discourse,  we 
made  him  presents  proportioned  to  the  melan- 
choly satisfaction  he  had  given  us  in  communica- 
ting the  true  history  of  the  sad  fate  of  our  former 
companions,  and  to  the  trouble  he  had  taken  in 
coming  to  us ;  so  that  he  returned  apparently 
well  satisfied  with  our  liberality. 

According  to  the  narrative  of  this  Indian,  Cap- 
tain Thorn,  by  his  abrupt  manner  and  passionate 
temper,  was  the  primary  cause  of  his  own  death 
and  that  of  all  on  board  his  vessel.  What  ap- 
pears certain  at  least,  is,  that  he  was  guilty  of 
unpardonable  negligence  and  imprudence,  in  not 
causing  the  boarding  netting  to  be  rigged,  as  is 
the  custom  of  all  the  navigators  who  frequent 
this  coast,  and  in  suffering  (contrary  to  his  in- 
structions) too  great  a  number  of  Indians  to 
come  on  board  at  once.* 

*  It  is  rqually   evident  that  even   at  the  time  when  Captain 
Thorn  was  first  notified  of  the  dangerons  crowd  and  threatening 


of 
\\i 

wi 


ANOTIIEU   SUGGESTION. 


187 


and 
^ay 

,  we 

clan- 
nica- 
)rmei* 
en  in 
rently 

I,  Cap- 

lonate 
death 

lat  ap- 

Ity  of 

in  not 

,  as  is 

equent 

liis  in- 

ians  to 


n  Captain 
threatening 


Captain  Smith,  of  the  Albatross,  who  had 
seen  the  wreck  of  the  Tonquin,  in  mentioning  to 
us  its  sad  fate,  attributed  the  cause  of  the  disas- 
ter to  tlie  rash  conduct  of  a  Captain  Ayres,  of 
Boston.  That  navigator  had  taken  off,  as  I  have 
mentioned  already,  ten  or  a  dozen  natives  of 
New-itty,  as  hunters,  with  a  promise  of  bringing 
them  back  to  their  country,  which  promise  he 
inhumanly  broke  by  leaving  them  on  some  desert 
islands  in  Sir  Francis  Drake's  Bay.  The  coun- 
trymen of  these  unfortunates,  indignant  at  the 
conduct  of  the  American  captain,  iiad  sworn  to 
avenge  themselves  on  the  first  white  men  who 
appeared  among  them.  Chance  willed  it  that 
our  vessel  was  the  first  to  enter  that  bay,  and 
the  natives  but  too  well  executed  on  our  people 
tlieir  project  of  vengeance. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  first  and  princi- 
pal cause  of  this  misfortune  (for  doubtless  it  is 

appearance  of  the  natives,  a  display  of  firearms  would  havo  suf- 
ficed to  prevent  an  outbreak.  Had  ho  come  on  deck  witii  Mr. 
M'Kay  and  Mr.  Lewis,  eucli  armed  with  a  musket,  and  a  couple 
of  pigtolg  at  the  belt,  it  is  plain  from  the  timidity  the  savaf^jes  after- 
ward displayed,  that  he  might  have  cleared  the  ship,  probably 
without  shedding  a  drop  of  blood. —  Ed. 


'I 


m 

Ui^.3 
'??^ 


188 


Vn\ XCH KIJE'S    VOYAGK. 


"       l! 


necessary  to  suppose  more  than  one),  seventeen 
white  men  and  twelve  Sandwicli-Islandcrs,  were 
massacred  :  not  one  escaped  from  the  butchery, 
to  bring  ns  the  news  of  it,  but  the  Indian  of 
Grai/s  Harbor.  Tlie  massacre  of  our  people 
was  avenged,  it  is  true,  by  tlie  destruction  of  ten 
times  the  number  of  tlieir  murderers ;  but  tliis 
circumstance,  which  could  perhaps  gladden  the 
heart  of  a  savage,  was  a  feeble  consolation  (if  it 
w^as  any)  for  civilized  men.  The  death  of  Mr. 
Alexander  M'Kay  was  an  irreparable  loss  to  the 
Company,  which  would  probably  have  been  dis- 
solved by  the  remaining  partners,  but  for  the 
arrival  of  the  energetic  Mr.  Hunt.  Interesting 
as  was  the  recital  of  the  Indian  of  Gray's  Har- 
bor throughout,  when  he  came  to  the  unhappy 
end  of  that  estimable  man,  marks  of  regret  were 
visibly  painted  on  the  countenances  of  all  who 
listened. 

At  the  bcgiiming  of  September,  Mr.  M'Kenzie 
set  off,  with  Messrs.  Wallace  and  Seton,  to  carry 
a  supply  of  goods  to  the  gentlemen  wintering  in 
the  interior,  as  well  as  to  inform  them  of  the  ar- 


pt*  ■' 


NOTE. 


180 


teen 

w'ere 

icry, 

m  of 

eoplo 

)f  ten 

t  this 

m  the 

L  (if  it 

of  Mr. 

!  to  the 

en  dis- 

for  the 

jresting 
's  Har- 

mhappy 
■ct  were 
all  who 


ranfrcmcnts  conchulod  with  Mr.  Ilimt,  and  to 
enjoin  them  to  send  down  all  their  furs,  and  all 
tlie  Sandwich-Islanders,  that  the  former  miglit  be 
shipped  for  America,  and  the  latter  sent  back  to 
their  conntrj. 

Note. 

It  will  novo;  bo  known  liow  or  by  whom  tho  Tnnqnhi  was 
blown  up.  iSonio  pn'toiid  to  sny  llnit  it  was  tlie  work  of 
•Tames  Lewis,  but  tliiit  is  impossildc,  for  it  tippcars  from  tbo 
narrative  of  tlie  Indian  that  be  was  one  of  tli(>  iiist  peisons  n)ur- 
ilered.  It  will  be  recollrrled  tbat  five  m(Mi  got  between  decks 
from  aloft,  d  nn'ng  the  affray,  and  four  only  wen;  seen  to  quit  tho 
ship  afterward  in  the  boat.  The  presumption  was  that  the  mis 
sintj  ninn  must  have  done  it,  and  in  further  ronversation  with  the 
Gray's  Harbor  Indian,  ho  inclined  to  that  opinion,  and  even 
affirmed  that  the  individual  was  the  ship's  armorer,  Wccka.  It 
mipht  also  have  been  accidental.  There  was  u  large  quantity  of 
powder  in  the  run  immediately  under  tho  cabin,  and  it  is  not  im- 
possible that  while  the  Indians  were  intent  on  plunder,  in  opening 
some  of  the  kegs  they  may  have  set  fire  to  the  contents.  Or 
again,  the  men,  before  quitting  the  ship,  may  have  lighted  a  slow 
train,  which  is  tho  most  likely  supposition  of  all. 


['Kenzie 
to  carry 
;ering  in 
f  the  ar- 


100 


FRANCIIERE  S   VOYAGE. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Arrival  of  a  Niimbor  of  Canoes  of  the  Northwest  Company.— 
Sale  of  the  Estahlit*hmcnt  at  Astoria  to  that  Company.— Cana- 
dian News. —  An-ival  of  the  British  Sloop-of-War  '*  Raccoon." 
—  Acciflent  on  Board  that  Vessel. —  The  Captain  takes  Formal 
Possession  of  Astoria. —  Surprise  and  Discontent  of  the  Officers 
and  Crew. —  Departure  of  the  "  Raccoon." 

A  FEW  days  after  Mr.  M'Kcnzic  left  us,  we 
were  greatly  surprised  by  the  appearance  of  two 
canoes  bearing  the  British  flag,  witli  a  third  be- 
tween them,  carrying  the  flag  of  the  United 
States,  all  rounding  Tongue  Point.  It  was  no 
other  than  Mr.  ]\I'Kenzie  himself,  returning  with 
Messrs.  J.  G.  M'Tavish  and  Angus  Bethune,  of 
the  Northwest  Company.  He  had  met  these 
gentlemen  near  the  first  rapids,  and  had  deter- 
mined to  return  with  them  to  the  establishment, 
in  consequence  of  information  which  they  gave 
him.     Those  gentlemen  w^ere  in   light  canoes 


cai 
a 

bui 
drJ 


HOSTILE    A  KM  A  ME  XT. 


101 


ipany.— 
—  C  ana- 


It 


iccoon. 
J  Fornml 
!  Officcid 


US,   WO 

of  two 
lird  bc- 
Uuited 
was  no 
ing  with 
hune,  of 
et  these 
xd  deter- 
Lislmieut, 
Ley  gave 
t  canoes 


(i.  c,  wiiiiout  any  ladinp:),  and  formed  tlic  van- 
guard to  a  flotiUa  of  eight,  h)adcd  with  furs,  un- 
der the  conduct  of  Messrs.  John  Stuart  and 
M'Milhm. 

Mr.  ^I'Tavish  came  to  our  quarters  at  tlie  fac- 
tory, and  showed  Mr.  M'Dougal  a  letter  which 
liad  been  addressed  to  the  latter  l)y  Mr.  iVngus 
Shaw,  his  uncle,  and  one  of  tlic  partners  of  the 
Northwest  Com})any.  Mr.  Sliaw  informed  liis 
nephew  tliai  tlic  ship  Isaac  Todd  had  sailed  from 
Loudon,  with  letters  of  marque^  in  the  montli  of 
March,  in  company  witli  the  frigate  Ph(Fbe,  hav- 
ing orders  from  the  government  to  seize  our 
establishment,  which  had  been  represented  to 
the  lords  of  the  admiralty  as  an  important  col- 
ony founded  by  the  American  government.  The 
eight  canoes  left  behind,  came  up  meanwhile,  and 
uniting  themselves  to  the  others,  they  formed  a 
camp  of  about  seventy-five  men,  at  tlie  bottom  of 
a  little  bay  or  cove,  near  our  factory.  As  they 
were  destitute  of  provisions,  we  supplied  them ; 
but  Messrs.  M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie  affecting  to 
dread  a  surprise  from  this  British  force  under 


192 


FRANniFRKS    VOYAOR. 


our  puns,  wo  kopt  sti'iclly  on  om*  puard;  for  we 
were  infoi-ior  in  point  of  numboi's,  although  our 
position  was  cxcoo(linL!;ly  advantairoous. 

Ah  the  season  advanccMl,  and  tlioir  sliip  did  not 
arrive,  our  now  noiii'hl)ors  foinid  tliomscdvrs  in  a 
very  disagrcoaldo  situation,  without  food,  or  mcr- 
chundisewlierewith  to  pro(Mire  it  from  the  natives; 
viewed  by  tlio  hitter  with  a  distrustful  and  hostile 
eye,  as  being  our  enemies  and  therefore  exposed 
to  attack  and  plunder  on  their  part  with  impu- 
nity ;  supplied  wi.tli  good  hunters,  indeed,  but 
wanting  ammunition  to  render  their  skill  availa- 
ble. AVcary,  at  length,  of  applying  to  us  inces- 
santly for  food  (which  we  furnished  them  with 
a  sparing  hand),  unalde  either  to  retrace  their 
steps  through  the  wilderness  or  to  remain  in 
their  present  position,  they  came  to  the  conclu- 
sion of  proposing  to  buy  of  us  the  whofte  estab- 
lishment. 

Placed,  as  wc  were,  in  the  situation  of  expect- 
ing, day  by  day,  the  arrival  of  an  English  ship- 
of-war  to  seize  upon  all  wc  possessed,  we  listened 
to  their  propositions.     Several  meetings  and  dis- 


SALK   TO    TIIK    DUITISH. 


11)3 


[•  we 
our 

d  uot 
3  iu  a 
•:  mcr- 
itlvca ; 

liosUlo 

xposcd 

L  impu- 

cd,  but 
avalla- 

is  inccs- 

,cm  with 

,CG  their 
imain  v^ 
conclu- 
de cstab- 

,:  expect- 
tlish  ship- 
re  listened 
[s  and  dis- 


cussions took  placo  ;  tlio  ncji-otiat ions  wore  pm- 
tractod  \)y  lln-  liDpc  nl'  on<;  jKirty  that  the  l()n<i- 
expocttnl  arnicil  lorco  would  arrivo,  to  roiulor  thu 


pu 


rcliu 


.so  n 


nneccssarv,  and  woru  ur^'t^'d  forward 


1)}'  tlie  otiicr  ill  order  to  concludo  tlioalVair  before 
that  occurrence  sliouUl  intervene  ;  at  lcn<i-tli  the 


pi 


ice  of  the  ffoods  and  furs  in  the   factory  was 


agreed  upon,  and  thi;  bargain  was  .-signed  l)y  both 
parties  on  the  2-jd  of  OctobiM*.  The  genlUMnon 
of  the  Xortliwest  Company  took  posscssi(jn  of 
Astoria,  agreeing  to  j)ay  the  servants  of  the  Pa- 
cific Fur  C(jinpany  (the  name  which  had  been 
chosen  by  Mr.  Astor),  the  arrears  of  tlu.'ir  wages, 
to  be  deducted  from  the  price  of  tlie  goods  wliich 
we  delivered,  to  sui)}»ly  tliem  with  provisions,  and 
give  a  free  passage  to  those  who  wished  to  return 
to  Canada,  over  hind.  The  American  coh)rs  woro 
hauled  down  fi'om  tlie  factory,  and  the  iJritish 
run  up,  to  the  no  small  cliagrin  and  mortilication 
of  those  who  were  American  citizens. 

It  Avas  thus,  that  aftjr  having  passed  the  soas, 
and  sullered  all  sorts  of  fatigues  and  privations, 

I  lost  m  a  moment  all  my  hopes  of  fortune.     I 

9 


,j,4  rUANdlKBKS   VOVAr.f:. 

eould  not  help  vc..navk.ns? 

i,„  goverumout,  altu  «-  ^^_^^     . 

•     ,1  from  'Mr.  JacUsou,  ln^  "'».)'■■  '^ 

York      But  as  1  l.avo  ju.t  mlunalod,  *«  - 

'"r::^l«u.aa..,,o.-™atUat.o  . 

.,      vivan-   of  tho  rur-tradors   of  tl>o 
ino:  but   the   vnaii> 

time  expedition  to  destroy  u.     U.e  ««q 

V  that  1  >vaB  not  mistaken  in  this  opuuon. 
show  tiiai  A  »^  Pacific 

4-  r.c  il^o  «5crvo  ^ts  ot  tlic  1  ii^i"^ 

^'''«S'"^*"-^t:         lice  of  the  company 
^-«-^^"f''"tt       :\,.fe.edto..etnvn 

of  *°^''*-^"^'-  til  of  the  number  oi 
to  their  country,  and  1  ^Nas  oi 
L      last.     Nevertheless,  Mr.  M^Tav.h,  ^ 

Lv  i-ffectual  attempts  to  persuade  mo  t 
r„....h  thorn,  havin.  intimated  that  the  estah 


NKW    KNGACKMEXT. 


195 


ight 
Rritr 
1  vc- 
irtri,'"''  . 
tKcw 

,c  r>vit- 

Avhat  it 
at  noUi- 
of  tlio 
L  Us  do- 

a  inari- 
iqiicl  wiU 
)mion. 
ho  Pacific 
Company 
to  return 
num^^or  ot 
ixvisU,  after 
0  mo  to  rc- 
a,  the  esta.i>- 


lisliment  could  not  disponso  with  my  services,  as 
I  was  the  only  person  wlio  could  assist  ♦lieni  in 
their  trade,  cspt^cial'  for  provisions,  of  which 
they  would  soon  be  in  tlie  j^reatest  need,  1 
a<^reed  witli  them  (^without  howt;vi;r  relincjuishing 
my  previous  en<^agement  with  Mr.  Astor's  agents) 
for  live  months,  that  is  to  5iiy,  till  the  departnrc 
of  the  expedition  which  w;is  to  ascend  the  Colum- 
bia in  the  Sj)ring,  and  reach  Canada  by  way  of 
the  Rocky  i\[ounlains  and  tlu^  rivei-s  of  tlie  inte- 
rior. Messrs.  John  Stuart  and  ^Mvenzi(^  set  olV 
about  the  end  of  this  month,  for  the  interior,  in 
order  that  the  latter  might  nnike  over  to  the 
former  the  posts  established  on  *he  Spokan  and 
Okcnakan. 

Oil  the  loth  of  November,  Messrs.  Alexander 
Stuart  and  Alexander  rieniy,  botli  partniM-s  of 
the  N.  "VV.  Com])any,  ai-rived  at  tin;  factory,  in  a 
cou})le  of  bark  canoes  manned  by  sixteiMi  voi/a- 
f^eurs.  They  had  set  out  from  Fort  Willium^  on 
Lak(»,  Superior,  in  the  montli  of  .July.  Tliey 
brought  us  Canadian  papers,  by  which  we  learned 
that  the  British  arms  S(>  far  liad   hem   in  tiu^  as- 


t^',*  .  " 


-  vwmm&' 


^1 


196  rHANClIERK's   VOYAGE. 

ceudant.     They  co.Uu..ed  also  the  ne.s  that  an 
J,uonda.c.ahV«t;thenvcreev.s- 

"  Ou  the  morning  of  the  30th,  we  saw  a  large 

,^  proved  in  this   instance  to  desen      . 
Lev,  and  soon  after  that  vessel  ca.^^  a 

chor  in  Bakc/s  bay-    ^ot  kno^^  u,, 

1     .cio  snil  wo  thought  it 
was  a  friendly  or  a  hostile  sail,  ^ 

/  t  to  send  on  Wd  Mr.  M'Dongalm  a 
prudent  to  senu   ui 

canoe,  manned  by  such  of  the  men  as  had  heen 
liusly  in  the  service  of  the  Pacific  Fnr  Com- 

preMou.i^  .IpoKre   themselves 

T^aiiV    with  iniimctions    to    dcclaic 

^  if   the   vessel  ^vas   Ameriean,  and 

Americans,  if   the   ^e. 

•     +i,n  pnntrarv   case,     wniio   in^^ 
Eno-lishmen  m  the  contiaiy 

Us  way  Mr.  H'Tavish  caused  all 
r^nrtv  was  on  its  way,  i>Ai. 

P      ^  1    ^  ^vUn  the  initials  of 

the  furs  which  were  marked  witii  the 

.     !.<.  -..liced  on  board  the 
the  N  W.  Company  to  be  placea  o 

1         .  .t  the  Fort,  and  sent  them  up  the 
two  barges  at  tlie  roit, 

Hver    above  Tongue   Toint,  where   they  we- 
to  wait  for  a  coneertec^al,  that  was  to  m- 


THE   RACCOON. 


197 


,  an 

sur- 
L  the 

large 
itment 
■ve  its 
to  an- 
other it 
lUght  it 
ral  in  a. 
ad  ^)cen 
\iv  Com- 
Icinselves 

;an,  and 
liilo  this 
[auscd  all 
.nitials  of 
Iboard  the 
■ixi  np  the 
they  were 
kvas  to  in- 


form them  whether  the  new-comers  were  friends 
or  foes.  Towainl  midnight,  Mr.  Ilalscy,  who 
had  accompanied  Mr.  M'Dougal  to  the  vessel, 
returned  to  the  Fort,  and  announced  to  us  that 
she  was  tlie  British  skjo})-of-war  Raccoon,  of  26 
guns,  commanded  by  Captain  Black,  witli  a  com- 
plement of  120  men,  fore  and  aft.  ^Ir.  John 
M'Donald,  a  partner  of  the  N.  W.  Company,  was 
a  passenger  on  the  Raccoon,  with  five  voyag^cnrs, 
destined  for  the  Company's  service.  He  had 
left  England  in  the  frigate  Phccbe,  which  had 
sailed  in  company  with  the  Isaac  Todd  as  flir  as 
Rio  Janeiro;  but  there  falling  in  with  the  British 
squadron,  the  admiral  changed  the  destination 
of  the  frigate,  despatching  the  sloops -of- war 
Raccoon  and  Cherub  to  convoy  the  Isaac  Todd, 
and  sent  the  Phoibe  to  search  for  the  American 
commodore  Porter,  who  was  then  on  the  Pacific, 
capturing  all  the  British  whalers  and  other  tra- 
ding vessels  he  met  with.  These  four  vessels 
then  sailed  in  company  as  far  as  Cnpe  Horn, 
where  they  parted,  after  agreeing  on  the  island 
of  Juan  Fernandez  as  a  rendezvous.     The  three 


f'""^ 


■"i 
,-1  ;.. 


,i'''' 


198  franchere's  voyage. 

eon.—dtV«  little  ..uadron,heana.^*e 
,,„,M.tea..Co— .ePoHe.0^^^^^^ 

British  commerce,  and  especially  on  the 
!Lft.o™ent  these  sea.,  vesolved  to  go  .n  quest 

:"::oMerto,ve.mcomhat;and.^^^^ 
i„,  the  C/..n.&  to  assist  lum,dctaded  the  Eac 

eoo     to  -  aud  destroy  the  American  estah,sh. 

Tt  1  the  Kiver  Colnmhia.  hein,  assured  hy 

r  M'DonaW  that  a  single  sloop-of.var  would 
be  sufficient  for  that  service. 
'  Mr.   M-Bonald  had  consequently   emhar.e  , 

i.nnra  the  Raccoon,     itiis 
with  his  people,  on  board  tne 

LaemJin^ormedusthattheyha^^^^^^^^^ 
fri,.vhtful  weather  in  douWmg  the  C  pe,  a 
;  entertained   serious    apprehensions  for    the 
Jy  of  the  Isaac  Todd,  but  that  if  ..e  .as 
^  .  1  „v  to  arrive  in  the  river 

,afo,  wo  might  expect  her  to  an  ive 

'  ,        Thp  si-rnal  gun  agreed 

iu  two  or  three  weeks.     The  si^na  ^ 

„„   havinc^  been  fired,  for  the  return  of  th 
upon,  na\uin  ,      -p^^^ 

barges,  Mr.  M'Tavish  camo  hack  to  the 


FATAL    ACCIDENT. 


109 


but 

tlie 
wlio 
'  the 

the 
lalers 
quest 
•etain- 
c  Kac- 
/ablish- 
Tcd  by 

would 

Lbarl?^cd, 
a.    This 
crienced 
and  that 
for    the 
she  was 
the  river 
luu  agreed 
rn  of  the 
the  Tort 


with  the  furs,  and  was  overjoyed  to  leani  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  M'Donahl. 

On  the  1st  of  December  the  Raccoon's  gig 
came  up  to  the  fort,  bringing  Mr.  M'Donald 
(surnamed  Bras  Croche,  or  crooked  arm),  and 
the  first  lieutenant,  Mr.  Sheriff.  Both  these 
gentlemen  were  convalescent  from  the  ciTects  of 
an  accident  wiiich  had  happened  to  them  in  the 
passage  between  Juan  Fernandez  and  tlie  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  The  captain  wishing  to  clean 
the  guns,  ordered  them  to  be  sealed,  that  is, 
fired  off:  during  this  exercise  one  of  the  guns 
hung  fire ;  the  sparks  fell  into  a  cartridge  tub, 
and  setting  fire  to  the  combustibles,  communi- 
cated also  to^  some  priming  horns  suspended 
above ;  an  explosion  followed,  which  reached 
some  twenty  persons ;  eight  were  killed  on  the 
spot,  the  rest  Avere  severely  burnt ;  Messrs. 
M'Donald  and  Sheriff  had  suffered  a  great  deal ; 
it  was  with  difficulty  that  their  clotlies  had  been 
removed ;  and  wlien  the  lieutenant  came  ashore, 
he  had  not  recovered  the  use  of  liis  hands. 
Among  the  killed  was  an  American  named  FkUt^ 


,1-  ' 


200 


FRAXCHERE  S   VOYAGE. 


who  was  in  the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company 
and  whose  loss  these  gentlemen  appeared  ex- 
ceedingly to  regret. 

As  there  were  goods  destined  for  the  Company 
on  board  the  Raccoon,  the  schooner  Dolly  was 
sent  to  Baker's  bay  to  bring  them  up :  but  the 
weather  was  so  bad,  and  the  wind  so  violent, 
that  she  did  not  return  till  the  12th,  bringing  up, 
together  with  the  goods,  Captain  Black,  a  lieu- 
tenant of  marines,  four  soldiers  and  as  many 
sailors.  We  entertained  our  guests  as  splendidly 
as  it  lay  in  our  power  to  do.  After  dinner,  the 
captain  caused  firearms  to  be  given  to  the  ser- 
vants of  the  Company,  and  we  all  marched  under 
arms  to  the  square  or  platform,  where  a  flag-staff 
had  been  erected.  There  the  captain  took  a 
British  Union  Jack,  which  he  had  brought  "on 
shore  for  the  occasion,  and  caused  it  to  bo  run 
up  to  the  top  of  the  staff';  then,  taking  a  bottle 
of  Madeira  wine,  he  broke  it  on  the  flag-staff*,  dc- 
clarir-r  in  a  loud  voice,  that  he  took  possession  of 
the  establishment  and  of  the  countiy  in  the  name 
of  His  Britai\nic  Majesty ;  and  changed  the  name 


ci 


OFFICERS     DISAPPOINTMENT. 


•JOl 


my 
cx- 

)any 
was 

L  the 
olcnt, 

I  lieu- 
many 
iiididly 
ler,  the 


'» 


of  Astoria  to  Fort  Gcori^e.  Some  few  Indian 
chiefs  had  been  got  top;cthcr  to  "witness  this 
ceremony,  and  I  explained  to  them  in  their  own 
language  wluit  it  signified.  Three  rounds  of 
artillery  and  musketry  were  fired,  and  the  health 
of  the  king  w'^.s  drunk  by  the  parties  interested, 
according  to  the  usage  on  like  occasions. 

The  sloop  being  detained  by  contrary  winds, 
the  captain  caused  an  exact  survey  to  be  made 
of  the  entrance  of  the  river,  as  well  as  of  the 
navigable  channel  between  Baker's  bay  and  Fort 
George.  The  officers  visited  the  fort,  turn 
about,  and  seemed  to  me  in  general  very  much 
dissatisfied  with  their  fool's  errand,  as  they  called 
it :  they  had  expected  to  find  a  number  of  Amer- 
ican vessels  loaded  with  rich  furs,  and  had  cal- 
culated in  advance  their  share  in  the  booty  of 
Astoria.  They  had  not  met  a  vessel,  and  their 
astonishment  was  at  its  height  when  tliey  saw 
that  our  establishment  had  been  transferred  to 
the  Northwest  Company,  and  was  under  the 
British  flag.  It  will  sufiice  to  quote  a  single  ex- 
pression of  Captain  Black's,  in  order  to  show 

9* 


it* 


(I 


'ill! 


iSii  i ;] 

Jill:;    J'lll 

m  il 


i  ' 


202  FRAX"'WV.'s  ^•"^•■^"^• 

,ol  ««<'H  t>.oy  .V..VC  aocoh-od  in  t.oiv  cxpccta- 

tl      The  Captain, Tea  aru.  .^U ;  .   e„  .e 

showed  him  ti.c  next  movn>ng  ti.  1  alua 
,0.  h..tion.  of  ti>c  factory,  l>c  nv,uu-ed  >f  t hc.c 
^  ,,.  on  bein"  assured  tluvttl>cre 

^,.s  not  another  iovt,  on  iKin.  nhcsrreat- 

,.a,„oothor,,>oeriedont,.ithanau-ofthcg.ea 

!    .-.W„,._"M-hat:i.thisthcfortwh.eh 
estaston.Ament.  ,„„.„,„,,ict     Good 

.vas  represented  to  me  as  so  toimidable  . 
;r:  1  conUi  i>atter  it  down  in  two  hours  .rth  a 

^°"^-''""*' •",,,„,,.,  the  Kaceoon  two  youn, 

Tlicrc  were  on  Doaui  mv. 
,en  from  Canada,  who  had  boon  impressed  at 

,       ihat  ve^sel  was  tlrere  some  years 
Quebec,  when  tliat  \e...ei 
LrehervoyagetotheCoU.mb.a:onof.     em 

Is  named  P«««^,  a  biaehsmith,  and  was  of 
Qnebec.  the  other  was  from  Upper  Canada,  and 

Tnamed  McDonald.     These  young  persons 
r;aedtonstirattheywonldbe,adtoremam 

Jrort  George:    and  as  there  was  amon^c. 

1      ,>-nnld  oladlv  have  shipped,  ^^o 
men  some  wlw  wonld  e,t^«y 

proposed  to  the  ca,tain   an  exchange,  bn    h 
^  i  t     it      John  Little,  a  boat- 

^onld  not  consent  to  it.     Jolm  ' 

,„Uder  from  Kew  York,  who  had  been  on  the 


REFLKCTIONS. 


203 


reta- 
il ^vc 
},  and 
there 
,  there 
gvcat- 
:  wh^eh 
Good 
i  ^v'itli  a 

0  yoini?? 
■cpscd  at 
no  years 

of.  them 

1  was  of 
nada,  and 

persons 
to  remain 
imong  0^^^' 
hipped,  ^vc 
.c,  but  he 
Lie,  a  hoat- 
,een  on  the 


cr 


sick  list  a  long  time,  was  sent  on  board  and 
placed  under  the  care  of  the  sloop's  surgeon,  Mr. 
O'Brien ;  the  cai)tuin  engaging  to  land  him  at 
the  Sandwich  Islands.  P.  D.  Jeremie  also  ship- 
ped himself  as  under  clerk.  The  vessel  hoisted 
sail,  and  got  out  of  the  river,  on  the  31st  of  De- 
cember. 

From  the  account  given  in  this  chapter  the 
reader  will  sec  with  what  facility  the  estaldish- 
ment  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Com])any  could  have  es- 
caped capture  by  the  British  force.  It  was  only 
necessary  to  get  rid  of  the  land  i)arty  of  the 
Northwest  Company — who  were  completely  in 
our  power — then  remove  our  effects  up  the  river 
upon  some  small  stream,  and  await  the  result. 
The  sloop-of-war  arrived,  it  is  true ;  but  as,  in 
the  case  I  suppose,  she  would  have  found  nothing, 
she  would  have  left,  after  setting  fire  to  our  de- 
serted houses.  None  of  their  boats  would  have 
dared  follow  us,  even  if  the  Indians  had  betraye  1 
to  them  our  lurking-place.  Those  at  the  head 
of  affairs  had  their  own  fortunes  to  ticek,  and 
thought  it  more  for  their  interest,  doubtless,  to 


I'# 


<  -3 


j^Rft?^  >    '* 

\'  \ 

204  FRANCIIEUE'S  VOYACJK. 

act  aBt.oyalO^«ttUatwm  not  clear  the,.  >n 

t,.e  eyes  of  tU.  .     A,  and  the  cl>a,-,o  of  t.ca  ou 

.      /,ii  nUvivsbo  attached 
to  Mr.  ABtor's  interests  will  ahvajs 

to  their  characters. 


■  \ 


SI'- 


:|1 


NEW   EXPKDITIOX. 


205 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

Expoflitioiis  to  thp  Interior. —  Rituni  of  Messrs.  Joliii  Stimrt  iiiul 
D.  M'Konzie. — Tlioft  coinmitttnl  by  tho  Ntilivfs. —  Wur  i'urty 
iigiiiiist  ilu!  Tliiiivt'fl. 

On  the  3(1  of  January,  1814,  two  canoes  laden 
with  merchandise  for  the  interior,  were  de- 
spatched under  the  command  of  Mr.  Alexander 
Stuart  and  Mr.  James  Keith,  with  fifteen  men 
under  them.  Two  of  the  latter  were  charged 
with  letters  for  tho  posts  (of  the  Northwest 
Company)  cast  of  the  mountains,  containing  in- 
structions to  the  persons  in  superintendence 
there,  to  have  in  readiness  canoes  and  the  requi- 
site provisions  for  a  largo  party  intending  to  go 
east  the  ensuing  spring.  I  took  this  opportunity 
of  advising  my  friends  in  Canada  of  my  intention 
to  return  home  that  season.  It  was  the  third 
attempt  I  had  made  to  send  news  of  my  exist- 


206 


FRANTTIEnF:  S   VOYAGE. 


cnco  to  my  rt'lnl Ives  and  IVIoiuIh  :  tho  first  two 
had  iniscaiTicd  and  tlii.s  was  doomed  to  meet  tho 
same  fate. 

Messrs.  J.  Stuart  and  M'Konzie,  who  (as  was 
seen  in  a  previous  chapter")  had  l>oon  sent  to 
notify  tlio  gentlemen  in  thi;  interior  of  wliat  liad 
taken  j)hiec  at  Astoria,  and  to  transfer  the  win- 
terinp:  posts  to  the  Northwest  Company,  returned 
to  Fort  George  on  the  morning  of  the  Oth.  They 
stated  tliat  they  had  left  Messrs.  Clarke  and  I). 
Stuart  behind,  with  the  loaded  canoes,  and  also 
that  the  party  had  lieen  attacked  l»y  the  natives 
above  the  falls. 

As  they  were  descending  the  river  toward 
evening,  between  the  first  and  second  portages, 
they  had  espied  a  large  number  of  Indians  con- 
gregated at  no  great  distance  in  the  prairie  ; 
which  gave  them  some  uneasiness.  In  fact,  some 
time  after  they  had  encamped,  and  when  all  the 
people  (tout  1e  monde')  were  asleep,  except  Mr. 
Stuart,  who  was  on  guard,  these  savages  had 
stealthily  approached  the  camp,  and  discharged 
some  arrows,  one  of  which  had  penetrated  the 


XATIVK    ATTAf K. 


207 


two 

the 

vras 
it  to 

5  wiu- 
urned 
Tlioy 
ind  I). 
td  also 
natives 

toward 
ortagcs, 
ins  con- 
prairie  ; 
Lct,  some 
I  all  the 
opt  Mr. 
lo-cs  had 
iscliarged 
rated  the 


coverlet  of  one  of  the  iiieii,  who  was  lying  near 
the  l)n,iri;a|;e,  and  liad  pierced  the  cartihi<!;e  of  ins 
car ;  tlie  pain  made  liiui  utter  a  sharp  cry,  wliifii 
alarmed  the  wliok»  camp  and  threw  it  into  an  up- 
roar. T!ie  natives  pereeivin<^  it,  fled  to  the 
woods,  liowling  and  yellin«^  liice  so  many  demons. 
In  tlie  mornin<i'  our  people  picked  uj)  (Muht  arrows 
round  the  camp :  tlicy  could  yet  liear  tlie  sav- 
ages yell  and  wlmop  in  tlie  woods :  but,  notwitli- 
standing,  tlie  party  reached  the  lower  end  of  the 
portage  unmolested. 

The  audacity  whicli  these  barl)arians  had  dis- 
played in  attacking  a  i)arty  of  from  forty  to 
forty-live  pci^ons,  made  us  suppose  that  they 
would,  much  more  probably,  attack  the  ])arty  of 
Mr.  Stuart,  which  was  composed  of  but  seven- 
teen men.  Consequently,  I  received  orders  to 
get  ready  forthwith  a  canoe  and  firearms,  in 
order  to  proceed  to  their  relief.  The  whole  was 
ready  in  the  short  space  of  two  hours,  and  I  em- 
barked immediately  with  a  guide  and  eight  men. 
Our  instructions  were  to  use  all  possible  diligence 
to  overtake  Messrs.  Stewart  and  Keith,  and  to 


;!^^ 


.  -J 


m 


208  FUANOIKW.'S  VOV.MiF.. 

convoy  tUcn  to  a,o  up,..-.- ona  or  .Uc  last  ,.oHag«; 

^        ^  ,  1.  ir  wciuet  too  much 

or  to  vctuni  witU  tlu,  ^o  .     , 

„„.  ,,.,,.tor  tlic  uiitives.     Wt  ua\ 
resistance  on  tliov-"^'"  •  i,t  „f  tho 

11  il,.it  dav,  ami  all  t\.c  msl't  "'  """ 
cllcd,  tlicu,  all  lUat  da)  ,,.„,ai„„  our- 

Olli  and  on  the  7lh,  till  cvenmsr.     In^m 
::e;.enataUtacdi—  rroniUie.^^^^^^^^^^ 

1  oU  to  Dut  the  fircariuH  lu  oidci,  ana 
came  to  a  lialt,  to  pui  liio 

1  caused   ilunn  to  re.mbavlc,  and  ordc.od  tlio 

1   tl.nt  tlio  party  whom 
men  to  sins  as  Ihcy  rowed,  that  llio  l      y 

"^         n  ivoqr  US   as  wo 

,vo  wished  to  overtake   nnght  hcai 

,  ,i,.w  wove   encamped  on 

„.,ssed    if  pcrclianco   tl.cy  wcu,  .    ,  ,, 

^  n   the  is'ands  of  which  the  river  is  fnll 

^'••"^''"'^  °   ';  It  we  had  hardly  proceeded 
ill  tlvis  part,     ii^  1^^^^' 

ftvc  or  Bi.  miles,  when  wc  were  haded  by  .omo 
o     apparently  in  Che  middle  or  the  stream.    W 

joined  by  onr  people  of  the  cxp.d 

In  dcscendin,  the  river  in  a  can  e     1  e 

formed  «s  that  they  had  been  attacked  the  even 

r.before,andthat.r.«.^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

,a      Wc  turned   about,  and  all  pioeeedt 

,  ,1,^  fort     111  tlic  morning,  when 
company  toward  the  toit. 


INDIAN'    riCHT 


'200 


ill 
lV- 

,ho 
ur- 

5,1 

and 
ight 

tlio 
horn 
3  wo 
d  on 
s  fnll 

cded 

somo 
We 
}  soon 
0  were 

icy  in- 
0  cvcn- 
^vound- 
(Icd   in 
g,  when 


wo  stopped  to  lirt'iikrnsf,  Mr.  Keith  uavo  ma 
the  particuhirs  of  (he  atVair  of  lh(^  day  piTOodinu;. 
lliiviiio-  arrive»l  at  the  loot  of  the  rapids,  tli(»y 
coimneiieed  th(»  ])oi'tau-e  on  the  south  bauiv  of  tiic 
river,  which  is  ul»strneted  with  JK^uhhM's,  ov(n* 
wliieli  it  was  necessary  to  pass  tlie  elVeets.  After 
tljey  luul  haided  ovin-  the  two  canoes,  and  a  pai't 
of  tlio  li'oods,  tlie  natives  approaclied  in  ;j^reat 
numbers,  trviuii:  to  earrv  olV  soinethiuu'  unob- 
served.  Mr.  Stuai't  was  at  the  uj)ptM'  end  of  tI\o 
poi"tap>  (th(^  portage;  beiiiu:  about  six  hunth'ed 
yards   iu   leniitlO,  and   Mr.    Keith   accompanied 


tlu)  loaded   men.     An    indian  seized  a  baix  0( 


m- 


taining*  artich's  of  little  vabi(%  and  lied:  Mr. 
Stuart,  wlio  saw  ihe  act,  pursueil  the  thief,  and 
after  8(nnc  resistance  on  tlu*  latter's  ])art,  suc- 
eeinhnl  in  making  liini  rcdiiupiish  Ids  booty.  Im- 
mediately he  saw  a  number  iS  Indians  armed 
with  bows  and   aiTows,  ap])roaching  him:  one  of 


them  bent  his  l)ow  and  took  aim  ;   Mr.  Sluai't,  o 


n 


liis  j)art,  leveUed  iiis  gun  at  the  Indian,  warning 
tlie  latter  not  to  siioot,  and  at  the  same  instant 
received  an  arrow,  wliich    pierced  his  h'ft  slioul- 


210 


fuanciiere's  voyage. 


(ler.  lie  then  drew  the  trigger ;  but  as  it  had 
rained  all  day,  the  gun  missed  lire,  and  before 
he  could  re-prime,  another  arrow,  better  aimed 
than  the  first,  struck  him  in  the  left  side  and 
penetrated  between  two  of  his  ribs,  in  the  region 
of  the  heart,  and  would  have  proved  fatal,  no 
doubt,  but  for  a  stone-pipe  he  had  fortunately  iu 
his  side-pocket,  and  which  was  broken  by  the 
arrow;  at  the  same  moment  his  gun  was  dis- 
charged, and  the  Indian  fell  dead.  Several 
others  then  rushed  forward  to  avenge  the  death 
of  their  compatriot ;  but  two  of  the  men  came  up 
with  their  loads  and  their  gun  (for  these  port- 
ages were  made  arms  in  hand),  and  seeing  what 
was  going  forward,  one  of  them  threw  his  pack 
on  the  ground,  fired  on  one  of  the  Indians  and 
brought  him  down.  He  got  up  again,  however, 
and  picked  up  his  weapons,  but  the  other  mai 
ran  upon  him,  wrested  from  him  his  war-club, 
and  despatched  him  by  repeated  blow^s  on  the 
head  with  it.  The  other  savages,  seeing  the 
bulk  of  our  people  approaching  the  scene  of  com- 
bat, retired  and  crossed  the  river.     In  the  mean- 


OUR   PEOPLE   RETREAT. 


211 


thad 
)cfore 
aimed 
e  and 
region 
;al,  no 
itely  in 
by  the 
as   dis- 
Sevcral 
le  death 
came  up 
3se  port- 
ing what 
tiis  pack 
ians  and 
however, 
ihor  ma^. 
war-cluh, 
^-s  on  the 
eciug  the 
lie  of  com- 
the  mean- 


time, Mr.  Stuart  extracted  the  arrows  from  liis 
body,  by  the  aid  of  one  of  the  men :  the  blood 
llowod  in  abundance  from  the  wounds,  and  he 
saw  tliat  it  would  be  impossible  for  him  to  pur- 
sue his  journey ;  he  therefore  gave  orders  for  the 
canoes  and  goods  to  be  carried  back  to  the  lower 
end  of  the  portage.  Presently  they  saw  a  great 
number  of  pirogues  full  of  warriors  coming  from 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  Our  people  then 
considered  that  they  could  do  nothing  better  than 
to  get  away  as  fast  as  possible  ;  they  contrived 
to  transport  over  one  canoe,  on  which  they  all 
embarked,  abandoning  the  other  and  the  goods, 
to  the  natives.  While  the  barbarians  were  plun- 
dering these  effects,  more  precious  in  their  esti- 
mation than  the  apples  of  gold  in  the  garden  of 
the  Ilesperides,  our  party  retired  and  got  out  of 
Bight.  The  retreat  was,  notwithstanding,  so 
precipitate,  that  they  left  behind  an  Indian  from 
the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains,  who  was  in  the 
service  of  the  Company  as  a  hunter.  This  In- 
dian had  persisted  in  concealing  himself  behind 
the  rocks,  meaning,  he  said,  to  kill  some  of  those 


212 


FRANCIIKKE  S   VOYAGE. 


■  <-l 


I      » *•' 


/ .  •  •' 


Si 


1:         I 


W     il 


thievos,  and  did  not  return  in  time  for  the  em- 
barkation. Mr.  Keith  regretted  this  brave  man's 
obstinacy,  fearing,  with  good  reason,  that  he 
would  be  discovered  and  murdered  by  the  natives. 
We  rowed  all  that  day  and  night,  and  reached 
the  factory  on  the  0th,  at  sunrise.  Our  first 
care,  after  having  announced  the  misfortune  of 
our  people,  was  to  dress  the  wounds  of  Mr. 
Stuart,  which  had  been  merely  bound  with  a 
wretched  piece  of  cotton  cloth. 

The  goods  which  had  been  abandoned,  were 
of  consequence  to  the  Company,  inasmuch  as  they 
could  not  be  replaced.  It  was  dangerous,  be- 
sides, to  leave  the  natives  in  possession  of  some 
fifty  guns  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  ammu- 
nition, which  they  might  use  against  us.*  The 
partners,  therefore,  decided  to  fit  out  an  expedi- 
tion immediatelv  to  chastise  the  robbers,  or  at 
least  to  endeavor  to  recover  the  goods.  I  went, 
by  their  order,  to  find  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 
neighboring  tribes,  to  explain  to  them  what  had 


*  However,   some   ciises  of  guns  and  kegs  of  powder  were 
thrown  into  the  falls,  before  the  piirty  retreated. 


'i 


*••.■ 


&■ 


WARLIKE   EXPEDITION. 


213 


3  cm- 
nan's 
it  he 
itivcs. 
jaclicd 
r  first 
Line  of 
of  ISIr. 
with   a 

d,  were 
L  as  they 
oiis,  he- 
of  some 
f  ammu- 


s. 


* 


The 


expedi- 
^rs,  or  at 

I  went, 
}fs  of  the 
Kvhat  had 

lowder  were 


taken  place,  and  invite  them  to  join  us,  to  which 
they  willingly  consented.  Then,  having  got 
ready  six  canoes,  we  re-embarked  on  the  10th, 
to  the  number  of  sixty-two  men,  all  armed  from 
head  to  foot,  and  provided  with  a  small  brass 
lield-pieco. 

"VYc  soon  reached  the  lower  end  of  tlie  first 
rapid  :  but  the  essential  thing  was  wanting  to 
our  little  force  ;  it  was  without  i)rovisions ;  our 
first  care  then  was  to  try  to  procure  these. 
Having  arrived  opposite  a  village,  we  perceived 
on  the  bank  about  thirty  armed  savages,  who 
seemed  to  await  us  firmly.  As  it  was  not  our 
policy  to  seem  bent  on  hostilities,  we  landed  on 
the  opposite  bank,  and  I  crossed  the  river  with 
five  or  six  men,  to  enter  into  parley  with  them, 
and  try  to  obtain  provisions.  I  immediately  be- 
came aware  that  the  village  was  abandoned,  the 
women  and  children  having  fled  to  the  woods, 
taking  with  them  all  the  articles  of  food.  The 
young  men,  however,  oiTered  us  dogs,  of  which 
we  purchased  a  score.  Then  we  passed  to  a 
second  village,  where  they  were  already  informed 


214 


fuanchere's  voyage. 


of  our  coming.  Here  we  bought  forty-five  dogs 
and  a  horse.  With  this  stock  we  formed  an 
encampment  on  an  island  called  Strawberry 
island. 

Seeing  ourselves  now  provided  with  food  for 
several  days,  we  informed  the  natives  touching 
the  motives  which  had  brought  us,  and  announced 
to  them  that  we  were  determined  to  put  them  all 
to  death  and  burn  their  villages,  if  they  did  not 
bring  back  in  two  days  the  eifects  stolen  on  the 
7th.  A  party  was  detached  to  the  rapids,  where 
the  attack  on  Mr.  Stuart  had  taken  place.  Wo 
found  the  villages  all  deserted.  Crossing  to  tho 
north  bank,  we  found  a  few  natives,  of  whom  we 
made  inquiries  respecting  the  Nipissingue  Indian, 
who  had  been  left  behind,  but  they  assured  us 
that  they  had  seen  nothing  of  him.* 

*  This  Indian  returned  some  time  after  to  the  factory,  but  in  a 
pitiable  condition.  After  the  departure  of  the  canoe,  he  had  con- 
cealed himself  behind  a  rock,  and  so  passed  the  night.  At  day- 
break, fearing  to  be  discovered,  he  gained  the  woods  and  directed 
his  steps  toward  the  fort,  across  a  mountainous  region.  He  ar- 
rived at  length  at  the  bank  of  a  little  stream,  which  he  was  at  first 
unable  to  cross.  Hunger,  in  the  meantim",  began  to  urge  him ; 
he  might  have  appeased  it  with  game,  of  which  he  saw  plenty, 
but  unfortunately  he  had  lost  the  flint  of  his  gun.     At  last,  with  a 


COALPO  S    ADVICE. 


215 


dogs 
d  an 
berry 

)d  for 

acliing 
ounccd 

lem  all 
did  not 
1  on  tho 
3,  where 
cc.    Wo 
ig  to  tlio 
;v^liom  we 
e  Indian, 
sured  us 


lory,  ^)ut  w  a 
,  he  had  con- 
ht.     At  day- 
and  directed 
ion.     He  ar- 
hc  was  at  fust 
to  urge  him; 
le  saw  pleiity> 
r  last,  with  a 


Not  having  succeeded  in  recovering,  above  the 
rapids,  any  part  of  the  lost  goods,  the  inhabitants 
all  protesting  that  it  was  not  they,  but  the  vil- 
lages below,  which  had  perpetrated  the  rol)bery, 
we  descended  the  river  again,  and  re-encamped 
on  Strawberry  island.  As  the  intention  of  the 
partners  was  to  intimidate  the  natives,  ^vithout 
(if  possible)  shedding  blood,  we  made  a  display 
of  our  numbers,  and  from  time  to  time  fired  off 
our  little  field-piece,  to  let  them  sec  that  we 
could  reach  them  from  one  side  of  the  river  to 
the  other.  The  Indian  CoaJpo  and  his  wife, 
who  had  accompanied  us,  advised  us  to  make 
prisoner  one  of  the  chiefs.  We  succeeded  in 
this  design,  without  incurring  any  danger.  Hav- 
ing invited  one  of  the  natives  to  come  and  smoke 
with  us,  he  came  accordingly:  a  little  after, 
came  another ;  at  last,  one  of  the  chiefs,  and  he 
one  of  the  most  considered  among  them,  also 
came.     Being  notified  secretly  of  his  character 

mft  of  sticks,  he  crossnd  the  river,  and  arrived  at  a  village,  the 
inhabitants  of  whirh  disarmed  him,  and  made  him  prisoner.  Our 
people  hearing  where  he  was,  sent  to  seek  him,  and  gave  some 
hiankers  for  his  ransom. 


■\ 


fv?^ 


,^;. 


I . 


4 

n 

II 

{H 

1 

™|i  :i 


i 

,    ;,.■' 

r 

! 

"        ,     ■! 

216  FBANCIIEUB'S  VOYAGE. 

.,  Coa,,o,  .Uo  .a.  concealed  i.  tUe  teut  we 
.L,ed  Wm  fovtWiA,  tied  bin.  to  a  stake  and 
ecda.na.dovevVnn.UUanakod.^^ 

.  I  •.  ^  hold  off  ou  the  least  attempt 
if  ready  to  cut  his  htaa  ou 
UngnadcbyMsiWofo.hUlU,e«U.on      10 

J  Indians  .e.t.onea.o..cd  to  de^HtK 
t,e   ncs  for  his  tribe,  that  unles.  tK  go 
U  bron.Ut  to  us  in  t.enty-fou.  l-ou.-s,  ti.e. 
or  .onld  be  put  to  deatU.     Onr  s«en 

tlcded:    soon  after  .e  beavd  .ad.ng   .  d 

.       •     ,Uo  viUao-e,  and  tUey  presently 
lamentation  n.  tlic  mIW„  , 

,  „f  „,„  „uns,  some  brass  kettles, 
ln-ou"-lit  us  part  ot  tlic  ^a"' , 
uiuuj,"        i  ,.  ,  ,  v.iwitostin"'  that 

■  I      e  ciiviUor  articles,  pioitsuno 

,1   n  T-nrH»tV  OI   sniail^i    til 

and  a  \aiit.iv  "'  TfppiVm" 

,,,.asalUbeirs,iareoft,iepUuie.     Ke^- 

...eliief  as  a  liostage,  repassed  to  t.ec^^> 

.UU.e,  and  suceeeded  in  recovering  the  lest  o 
;:.,andaboatatliirdortlieotliergo... 
\lliougk  tliey  bad  been  tlieaggressovset. 

tUey  bad  Uad  two  men  killed  ail. e- 
lost  any  on  our  side,  we  tbou  lit  it  ou         y 
,0   conform  to  tbe   usage  of  the  count  yj^ 
abandon  to  them  the  remainder  of  the  st  len 
abanaou  expression, 

effects,  to  cover,  according  to  tUcu      P 


IIKTUIIN. 


217 


at,  we 
LC,  and 
ovd,  as 
attempt 

art  ^vith 
le  goods 
iirs,  tbcir 
stratagem 

iling   i^^^<-^ 
presently 

.S3  kettles, 

isting  that 
Keeping 

^  tlie  otlver 
tlic  rest  of 
icr  goods. 
ssors,  yet  as 
wc  Ivad  not 
it  our  duty 
country,  and 
,f  the  stolen 
lv  expression, 


the  bodies  of  their  two  ^hiin  compatriots.  Be- 
sides, wc  began  lo  hud  uurselvcs  short  of  provis- 
ions, and  it  would  not  have  ))een  easy  to  got  at 
our  euemiea  to  punisli  them,  if  tliey  had  taken 
refuge  in  the  woods,  according  to  their  custom 
when  they  feel  themselves  the  weaker  party.  So 
wc  released  our  prisoner,  and  gave  him  a  flag, 
telling  him  that  when  he  presented  it  nnfurled, 
we  should  regard  it  as  a  sign  of  peace  and 
friendsliip :  but  if,  wlicn  avo  were  passing  tho 
portage,  any  one  of  the  natives  should  have  the 
misfortune  to  come  near  the  baggage,  we  would 
kill  him  on  the  spot.  We  re-embarked  on  tho 
19th,  and  on  the  22d  reached  the  fort,  where  we 
made  a  report  of  our  martial  expedition.  "We 
found  Mr.  Stuart  very  ill  of  his  wounds,  espe- 
cially of  the  one  in  the  side,  which  was  so  much 
swelled  that  we  had  every  reason  to  think  the 
arrow  had  been  poisoned. 

If  we  did  not  do  the  savages  as  much  harm  as 
wc  might  have  done,  it  was  not  from  timidity  but 
from  humanity,  and  in  order  not  to  shed  human 

blood  uselessly.     For  after  all,  what  good  would 

10 


1 

'ittiH^  : 

||^Hh||c' 

i^^Bi  i 

il^^^^^n' 

iHPp  1 ;:  ^ 

ik 

^    "W^'h  '■'■[  i 

.,„  „UICllOlll'«  VOViOB. 

.      .     A    nf  the  partners  of  the  iNoiui 
woll -understood,  ol  xnc  i^^i 

"°"''  '^"^        ";,„,iw  or  too  rigorously  pun- 
countrymeu  too  s.gually  ^^^^^ 

i^^ed^y«--'-;^;^trLr  to  resist 
^ade  conunou  cause  .nth  tU^fo^^^^ 

the  latter,  and  perhaps  even  to  dnvo 

the  country  ^^^^,  .^.t  all  the  firearms 

T  must  not  omit  to  staxc  tu 

7     T  iw  the  Indians  on  this  occasion, 
Burrendered  by  tne  ww 
lere  found  loaded  with  ball,  and  primed,  ..th 


REMARK. 


219 


mo  of 
i  effect 
ardcut 

I-  contli- 
intcvcst, 

J  Korth- 

strongly 
behooved 
onciliablc 
i(f  on  tlic 
would  so 
future.    It 
^-es  on  tlie 
)f  tlie  sea, 
cncc,  tlieir 
)rously  pun- 
would  have 
cr  to  resist 
3  tliemfrom 


a  little  piece  of  cotton  laid  over  the  priming  to 
keep  the  i)owder  dry.  This  s\\uk\  ^  how  soon 
they  would  acquire  the  use  of  guns,  und  how 
careful  traders  should  V)e  in  intercourse  with 
strange  Indians,  not  to  teach  them  llieir  use. 


the  firearms 

ais   occasion, 

primed,  ^ith 


(*1 


220 


liKMARKS. 


1^    < 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Dpsrrlptlon  of  Tnii;:iic  I'uiiit. —  A  Tii[i  to  the  Willnmet, —  Ar- 
riviil  tif  W.  Hunt  in  tlm  Brij;  i'tMllar. —  iNiirriitivo  of  tlio  Loss 
of  llio  Sliij)  Laik. —  l'r('ii!iiiitii»ii9  for  rrossiiig  the  Coiitiiu'iit. 

The  new  proprietors  of  our  establishment, 
being'  dissatisfied  witli  the  site  we  had  cliosen, 
came  to  tlie  determination  to  cliai  r,-o  it ;  after 
surveying-  botli  sides  of  the  river,  they  found  no 
better  place  than  tlie  head-land  \:hicli  we  had 
named  Tongue  point.  Tliis  point,  or  to  speak 
more  accurat'^ly,  perliaps,  this  cape,  extends 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  into  the  river,  being 
connected  with  the  main-land  by  a  low,  narrow 
neck,  over  wliich  the  Indians,  in  stormy  weather, 
haul  their  canoes  in  passing  up  and  down  the 
river ;  and  terminating  in  an  almost  perpendicu' 
lar  rock,  of  about  250  or  300  feet  elevation. 
This   bold   summit   was   covered  with   a   dense 


TOXr.UE   POINT. 


221 


of  tl>e  l'""' 
ontiiiont. 

d  cliosen, 
it;  after 

fouuil  no 
ii  we  \\^^ 

to  spc'cilv 
extenils 
'iver,  being 
ow,  narrow 
Yiy  wcatlier, 
d  down  the 
pcrpcndicu' 
it   elevation, 
itli   a   tleusc 


forest  of  pine  trees ;  the  ascent  from  tlie  l()\v(;r 
neck  was  frrjuhial  and  easy;  it  al)oiin(l(.Ml  in 
S[)riiigs  of  the  fiiiust  water;  on  (uthcr  side  it  iiad 
a  cove  to  shelter  tlie  boats  necessary  for  a  trading; 
establishment.  Tliis  ])oninsuhi  had  truly  the 
a])j)earance  of  a  liuf^e  tongne.  Astoria  bad  l)ecn 
built  nearer  the  ocean,  I)ut  tlio  advantages  olVered 
by  Tonj^uo  point  more  than  compensated  for  its 
greater  distance.  Its  soil,  in  the  rainy  season, 
could  be  drained  with  little  or  no  trouble  ;  it 
was  a  better  position  to  guard  against  attacks  on 
the  part  of  the  natives,  and  less  exposed  to  that 
of  civilized  enemies  by  sea  or  land  in  time  of 
war. 

All  the  hands  who  had  returned  from  the 
interior,  added  to  those  who  were  already  at 
the  Fort,  consumed,  in  an  incrcdil)ly  short  space 
of  time  the  small  stock  of  provisions  winch  had 
been  conveyed  by  the  Pacific  Fur  Com})any  to 
the  Company  of  the  Northwest.  It  became  a 
matter  of  necessity,  therefore,  to  seek  some  spot 
where  a  part,  at  least,  could  bo  sent  to  subsist. 
With  these  ^dews  I  left  the  fort  on  the  7th  Feb- 


222  niANCHERE'S  VOYAGE.. 

iry  Wit.  a  number  Of  .nc«,  ^>cWnS  to  the 

,1  «l,o  had  vetoed  to  enter  the 
ad  couceru,  and  .ho  ha  ^^^^  ^^^^^ 

,e,rviec  of  the  new  one,  to  procee 

.       il,e  vriWawct  river,  under  the  charf, 
Ushmont  on  the  m«  .^^^  ^  .^^  ,^ 

,f  Mr.  Alexander  11  my  w  ^^. 

c  fiv^t-ratc  hunters.     LiCcWuio 

^-^''^""^T'tr.—iweii  wooded,  hut 

''"^"'^"  :,lreaei.edther.rst..-.; 

low  and  swami-y,  "nt'l  j 

V     •  „  mssed  whieh,  hy  makmg  a  portag  , 
having  passed  „.oderately 

commenced   ascondmg  a  de  ^^^^^^^^^^ 

deep  channel,  against  a  sw.ft  cunent 

H,  ov  side  wer6  bordered  with  foresUroes 
on  either  .ide  ^^e  ^^i,„,,,ificd  with 

.^.heiiindthatnarrw        t,  ^^^^^^._^^^ 

T^rairie,  the  landscape  Avas  ma^ 

r  ^.^apvite   elevation,  and  ufei"n 
,ero  of  moderat  ^^^  ^^^^^^^  ^^^^  .„ 

amphiti-eatre.    ^^^  ^^^  ;„  ehavgo  of  Mr. 

great  abundance ;  and  the  po 

Henry  had  been  established  with  a  view  of  W 

,        o  r^nmbcr  of  hunters  to  pre- 
i„g  constantly  there     nunbei^^^^^^^^^^_ 

pave  dried  venison  for  the  u.e 

On  ouv  arrival  at  the  Columbia,  consideri  g 

?::de,  we  had  expected  sev.e  winter  weather, 


OAK   POINT. 


228 


the 
•  the 
;staVj- 
Imvge 
[lim  a 
10  Co- 
hanks 
,3a,hut 


:tagc,  1 
dcratcly 
l^c\)ank3 
jstrtrccs, 
icd  with 
the  hills 
11  g  in  an 
d  hero  ii^ 
:go  of  Mr. 
w  of  keep- 
ers to  pre- 
le  factory, 
idcring  the 
^er  weather, 


Fuch  as  is  cxpcricMicod  in  llio  san\o  latitudes 
cast;  but  v.o  Avcrc  soon  uudcccivod  ;  llic  mild- 
ness of  the  climate  never  permitted  us  to  trans- 
port iVesli  provisions  from  the  Willamet  to 
Astoria.  We  had  not  a  particle  of  salt;  and 
the  attempts  we  made  to  smoke  or  dry  tho 
venison  })roved  abortive. 

Having  left  the  men  under  my  cliarge  with 
Mr.  Henry,  I  took  leave  of  tliat  genlhMiian,  and 
returned.  At  Oak  point  I  found  Messrs.  Kcjith 
and  Fillet  encamped,  to  pass  tiiere  the^  season  of 
sturgeon-fisliing.  Tlu^y  informed  me  that  I  was 
to  stay  with  tliem. 

Accordingly  I  remained  at  Oak  point  the  i-cst 
of  tlie  winter,  occupied  in  trading  with  iho  In- 
dians spread  all  along  the  river  for  some  80  or 
40  miles  above,  in  order  to  supply  the  factory 
Avith  provisions.  I  used  to  take  a  boat  with  four 
or  five  men,  visit  every  fishing  station,  trade  for 
as  nnich  iisli  as  would  load  the  boat,  and  send 
her  down  to  the  fort.  Tiu;  surplus  fish  traded 
in  the  interval  l)etwcen  the  dej)artui"(^  and  return 
of  the  boat,  was  cut  up,  salted  and  barrelled  for 


}    M"- ■   ..■; 


.'»    * 


k.t. 


j-:^H 


224 


FRANCIIERE  S   VOYAGE. 


future  use.  The  salt  had  been  recently  obtained 
from  a  quarter  to  be  presently  mentioned. 

About  the  middle  of  March  Messrs.  Keith  and 
Pillet  ])oth  left  me  and  returned  to  the  fort. 
Being  now  alone,  I  began  seriously  to  reflect  on 
my  position,  and  it  was  in  this  interval  that  I 
positively  decided  to  return  to  Canada.  I  made 
inquiries  of  tlie  men  sent  up  witli  the  boats  for 
fish,  concerning  tlie  preparations  for  departure, 
but  whether  they  had  been  enjoined  secrecy,  or 
were  unwilling  to  communicate,  I  could  learn 
nothing  of  what  was  doing  below. 

At  last  I  heard  that  on  the  28th  Fel)ruary  a 
sail  had  appeared  at  the  mouth  of  the  river. 
The  gentlemen  of  the  N.  W.  Company  at  first 
flattered  tliemsclves  that  it  was  the  vessel  they 
had  so  long  expected.  They  were  soon  unde- 
ceived by  a  letter  from  Mr.  Hunt,  which  was 
brought  to  the  fort  by  the  Indians  of  Baker^s 
bay.  That  gentleman  had  purchased  at  the 
Marquesas  islands  a  brig  called  The  Pedlar:  it 
was  on  that  vessel  that  he  arrived,  having  for 
pilot  Captain  Northrop,  formerly  commander  of 


WRECK   OF   THE   LARK. 


225 


ained 

}\  and 
;   fort. 
Lcct  on 
that  I 
1  made 
oats  for 
iparturc, 
irccy,  or 
lid  learn 

bruary  a 
tlic  river. 
y  at  first 
cssel  tlicy 
5oon  nnde- 
wliicli  was 
of  Baker's 
ed  at  tlie 
Pedlar:  it 
having  for 
iimander  of 


the  ship  Lark.  The  latter  vessel  had  been  out- 
fitted by  Mr.  Astor,  and  despatched  from  New 
York,  in  spite  of  tlie  Wockadiug  squadron,  with 
supplies  for  the  ci-devant  Pacific  Fur  Company ; 
but  unhappily  she  had  been  assailed  by  a  furious 
tempest  and  capsized  in  lat.  10^  N.,  and  three  or 
four  hundred  miles  fro'ii  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
The  mate,  who  was  sick,  was  drowned  in  the 
cabin,  and  four  of  the  crevr  perished  at  the  same 
time.  The  captain  had  the  masts  and  rigging 
cut  away,  which  caused  the  vessel  to  right  again, 
though  full  of  water.  One  of  the  hands  dived 
down  to  the  sail-maker's  locker,  and  got  out  a 
small  sail,  which  they  attached  to  the  bowsprit. 
He  dived  a  second  time,  and  brought  up  a  box 
containing  a  dozen  bottles  of  wine.  For  thirteen 
days  they  had  no  other  sustenance  but  the  flesii 
of  a  small  shark,  which  they  had  the  good  for- 
tune to  take,  and  which  they  ate  raw,  and  for 
drink,  a  gill  of  the  wine  each  man  per  diem.  At 
last  the  trade  winds  carried  them  upon  the  island 
of  Tahoiiraka,  where  the  vessel  went  to  pieces 
on  the  reef.    The  islanders  saved  the  crew,  and 


10 


^ 


i;;  % 


326  mi«CHEBT='S  VOYAGE. 

x.'^\.  floated  on  tlie  water, 
seized  all  *e  goods  which  floated 

tt,pn   at    TTa/ioo,  and  learnea 

*^°"^'  ^Tat  It  led  on  the  isle  of  T. 
Americans  had  been  wi  ^^^ 

tTa  went  immediately  to  wki- 
fto«rate.    He  went  ^^^^.^  to  Cap- 

and  gave  the  pilotage  of  his 

^""''"TLa.inedwhatwasthesui-pviseof 
It  may  he  imagined  ^^^^  ^^^^^^ 

Mr.  Hunt  when  he  saw  Astou  ^^^ 

ft.,,  .nd  passed  into  sti-aiig^—;  ^^. 

— tnnewash.01.-^^    ^,^^„^,, 
liged  to  content  lumselt  t,  and 

t,eAnieHcanswliowe.a^-- 

--^-^-^-7':::Isey,Seton,and 

°^^^°^*^^\t^.ocmharlced.Ishall 

^^^•""'^^C::::^^t::eaderofthepaHeach 

'"^"aa^howtheyreachedtheirhomes. 
of  them  played,  ana  now      j 

When  I  heard  that  Mr.  Hunt  was  m  the  rive 
.  tliat  the  overland  expedition  was  to 
and  knowing  that  tno  u 

1     ^.   /inril    I  raised  camp  at  OaK 
set  out  early  m  AprU, 

:r «  r  :rx  -  - -, « 


^','  • 


I   QUIT   ASTORIA. 


227 


water, 
earned 
it  some 

oiTor 
hem  off, 

to  Cap- 

•prisc  of 
J  Britisli 
But  the 
J  was  on- 
board all 
iment,  and 
>  Company 
3cton,  and 
^ed.  I  shall 
ic  part  each 
heir  homes. 
Lii  the  river, 
Lition  was  to 
amp  at  Oak 
,   2d  of  that 
hat  very  day 


got  outside  the  river,  after  several  fruitless  at- 
tempts, in  one  of  which  she  narrowly  missed  be- 
ing lost  on  the  bar. 

I  would  gladly  have  gone  in  her,  had  I  but 
arrived  a  day  sooner.  I  found,  however,  all 
things  prepared  for  the  departure  of  tlic  canoes, 
which  was  to  take  place  on  the  4th.  I  got  ready 
the  few  articles  I  possessed,  and  in  spite  of  the 
very  advantar^cous  offers  of  the  gentlemen  of  the 
N.  W.  Company,  and  their  reiterated  persuasions, 
aided  by  the  crafty  M'Dougal,  to  induce  me  to 
remain,  at  len^t  one  year  more,  I  persisted  in  my 
resolution  to  leave  the  country.  The  journey  I 
was  about  to  undertake  was  a  long  one :  it  would 
bo  accompanied  with  great  fatigues  and  many 
privations,  and  even  by  some  dangers ;  but  I  was 
used  to  privations  and  fatigues ;  I  had  braved 
dangers  of  more  than  one  sort ;  and  even  had  it 
been  otherwise,  the  ardent  desire  of  revisiting 
my  country,  my  relatives,  and  my  friends,  the 
hope  of  finding  myself,  in  a  few  months,  in  their 
midst,  would  have  made  me  overlook  every  other 
consideration. 


.ir. 


J. 


'  ■  '  ' 


•i'S  ■^' 


228  FU^SCHEfili'S  VOYAOB. 

I  am  about,  the,  to  ,uit  the  banl^s  of  tho 
^  1     +  +l,P  reader  tlirougli 

,,,e.  Coluu*ia,  and  — ^  t^- 

,,,  .ouutaia  passes,  over  tUopla,t 

1  tl,n  Kkos  of  our  contment :  but  1  ougi 
and  the  lakes  ,^  ^^^ 

togiveWmatloastan.deaofth 

t  ™,  of  the  mhabltants,  as  ^voU  as 
customs  ot  ^^^  J  „Q^ 

prineipal  produet.ous  of  the  eount  ^ 

,„;t,  after  a  sojoun.  of  three  yeavslns- 

:  .;U  try  to  do  i.  the  fonoV.,  chapter. 

ae.„U.  o„  0.C  W.„.„  """;»;::;:„  „  „,„„  ..,.,  .,..  .™vel. 
U,  i„  foc,  wta,,  .lu-y  ...,ht  -  »  -:         .^,  ^  ,„.  „,„  „„iect  of  r.y 

.„.cU«a,  not  of*,,  ^^^^^J,^  „,  preface,  I ««  "■»• 


GEOGRAPHY. 


229 


f  tlio 

DVCStS, 

it  iirst 

rs  and 

of  the 

1 1  now 

is  what 


s. 


e 


scientific 


11  try. 


Tlmt 


,  had  travel- 
object  of  ni> 
had  no  vela- 
j,  I  was  not, 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Siuiation  of  the  Columbia  River. —  Qualities  of  its  Soil. —  Climate, 
&.C. —  Vegetable  and  Animal  I'roductions  of  the  Country. 

The  moutli  of  the  Columbia  river  is  situated  in 
46°  19'  north  latitude,  and  125°  or  12Go  of 
longitude  west  of  the  meridian  of  Greenwich. 
The  highest  tides  are  very  little  over  nine  or  ten 
feet,  at  its  entrance,  and  are  felt  up  stream  for  a 
distance  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  leagues. 

During  the  three  years  I  spent  there,  the  cold 
never  was  much  below  the  freezing  point ;  and  I 
do  not  think  the  heat  ever  exceeded  76°.  West- 
erly winds  prevail  from  the  early  part  of  spring, 
and  during  a  part  of  the  summer  ;  that  wind  gen- 
erally springs  up  with  iho  flood  tide,  and  tempers 
the  heat  of  the  day.  The  northwest  wind  pre- 
vails during  the  latter  part  of  summer  and  com- 


2B0 


franchere's  voyage. 


fi' 


mcncemcnt  of  autumn.  This  last  is  succe^'^.ed 
by  a  southeast  wind,  which  blows  almost  without 
intermission  from  the  beginning  of  October  to  the 
end  of  December,  or  commencement  of  January. 
This  interval  is  the  rainy  season,  the  most  disa- 
greeable of  the  year.  Fogs  (so  thick  that  some- 
times for  days  no  object  is  discernible  for  five  or 
six  hundred  yards  from  the  beach),  arc  also  very 
prevalent. 

The  surface  of  the  soil  consists  (in  the  valleys) 
of  a  layer  of  black  vegetable  mould,  about  five  or 
six  inches  thick  at  most;  under  this  layer  is 
found  another  of  gray  and  loose,  but  extremely 
cold  earth  ;  below  which  is  a  bed  of  coarse  sand 
and  gravel,  and  next  to  that  pebble  or  hard  rock. 
On  the  more  elevated  parts,  the  same  black  ve- 
getable mould  is  found,  but  much  thinner,  and 
under  it  is  the  trap  rock.  We  found  along  the 
seashore,  south  of  Point  Adams,  a  bank  of  earth 
white  as  chalk,  which  we  used  for  white-washing 
our  walls.  The  natives  also  brought  us  several 
specimens  of  blue,  red  and  yellow  earth  or  clay, 
which  they  said  was  to  be  found  at  a  great  dis- 


VEGETATION. 


231 


Lliout 
,0  the 
luary. 
,  disa- 
some- 
iive  or 
50  very 

valleys) 
.t  five  or 
layer  is 
xtremely 
Lrsc  sand 
ird  rock, 
black  ve- 
Liicr,  and 
ilong  tke 
of  earth 
L-wasliing 
Ls  several 
l\i  or  clay, 
great  dis- 


tance south ;  and  also  a  sort  of  shining  earth, 
resembling  lead  ore.*  Wc  found  no  limestone, 
although  wc  burnt  several  kilns,  but  never  could 
get  one  ounce  of  lime. 

Wc  had  brought  with  us  from  New  York  a 
variety  of  garden  seeas,  which  were  put  in  the 
ground  in  the  montli  of  May,  1811,  on  a  ri^^h 
piece  of  land  laid  out  for  the  purpose  on  a  slo- 
ping ground  in  front  of  our  establishment.  The 
garden  had  a  fine  appearance  in  the  month  of 
August ;  but  although  the  plants  were  left  in  the 
gromid  until  December,  not  one  of  them  came  to 
maturity,  with  tlie  exception  of  the  radishes,  the 
turnips,  and  the  potatoes.  The  turnips  grew  to 
a  prodigious  size  ;  one  of  the  largest  we  had  the 
curiosity  to  weigh  and  measure ;  its  circumfer- 
ence was  thirty-three  inches,  its  weight  fifteen 
and  a  half  pounds.  The  radishes  were  in  full 
blossom  in  the  month  of  December,  and  were  left 
in  the  ground  to  perfect  the  seeds  for  the  ensuing 
season,  but  they  were  all  destroyed  by  the  ground 
mice,  who  hid  themselves  under  the  stumps  which 


*  Plumbago. 


232 


FIlANCHKRKa    VOVAOK. 


•*••.' 


WO  had  not  rooted  out,  juid  iiiHiHtod  our  p:ardon. 
With  uU  tlio  care  wc  coukl  bestow  ou  them 
during  the  passage  from  Xew  York,  only  twelve 
potatoes  were  saved,  and  even  these  so  shrivelled 
up,  tliat  we  despaired  of  raising  any  from  the 
I'gw  sprouts  that  still  gave  signs  of  life.  Never- 
theless wc  raised  one  hundred  and  ninety  pota- 
toes the  first  season,  and  after  sparing  a  few 
plants  for  our  inland  traders,  we  planted  about 
fifty  or  sixty  hills,  which  produced  five  bushels 
the  second  year ;  about  two  of  these  were  planted, 
and  gave  us  a  welcome  crop  of  fifty  bushels  in 
the  year  1813. 

It  would  result  from  these  facts,  that  the  soil 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  as  far  as  tide  water,  or 
for  a  distance  of  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  is  very  little 
adapted  for  agriculture  ;  at  all  events,  vegetation 
is  very  slow.  It  may  bo  that  the  soil  is  not  ev- 
erywhere so  cold  as  the  spot  we  selected  for  our 
garden,  and  some  other  positions  might  have 
given  a  better  reward  for  our  labor.:  this  suppo- 
sition is  rendered  more  than  probable  when  we 
take  into  consideration  the  great  difference  in 


TREKS. 


283 


i-ilon. 
t\icm 
vvclvo 
veiled 
,m  the 
Kcver- 
y  pota- 
•  a  few 
d  about 
busliels 
planted, 
Lisbcls  in 


tlic  iiidijronoiis  vopjctal)lcs  of  the  country  in  diflor- 
ent  lucalilioH. 

The  Ibrcrit  ti'eos  most  coniinon  jit  the  nioutli  of 
the  river  and  near  our  establislunent,  were  cechir, 
hcndock,  wliite  and  reel  spruce,  and  ahler.  There 
were  a  few  dwnrf  wliite  and  ^ray  asiics ;  and 
here  and  there  a  soft  maide.  The  ahh)r  grows 
also  to  a  very  larti'e  size  ;  T  measured  some  of 
twelve  to  iifteen  inches  diameter ;  the  wood  was 
used  by  ns  in  preference,  to  uiake  charcoal  for 
the  blacksmitli's  foro-e.  Ilut  tlu*  larirest  of  all 
the  trees  that  1  saw  in  llie  country,  was  a  wluto 
spruce  :  this  tree,  which  liad  lost  its  to[)  l)ranches, 
and  l)ore  evident  marks  of  having  been  struck  ))y 
lightning,  was  a  mere,  straight  trunk  of  about 
eighty  to  one  liundred  feet  in  height;  its  l>ark 
whitened  by  age,  made  it  very  cons})icuous  amon^ 
ihc  other  trees  with  tlieir  l)rown  bark  and  dark 
foliage,  like  a  huge  column  of  white  marble. 
It  stood  on  the  slo})e  of  a  hill  innnediately  in  the 
roar  of  our  pidisades.  Seven  of  us  placed  our- 
selves round  its  trunk,  and  we  could  not  embrace 
it  by  extending  our  arms  and  touching  merely  the 


234 


FRANCIIEEE3   VOYAOB. 


tips  of  our  fingci'9 ;  wo  measured  it  afu  rward 
in  a  more  regular  manner,  and  found  it  forty-two 
feet  in  circumference.  It  kept  the  same  size,  or 
nearly  the  same,  to  the  very  top. 

We  had  it  in  contemi)lation  at  one  time  to  con- 
struct a  circular  staircase  to  its  summit,  and 
erect  a  platform  thereon  for  an  observatory,  but 
more  necessary  and  pressing  demands  on  our 
time  made  us  abandon  the  project. 

A  short  distance  above  Astoria,  the  oak  and 
ash  are  plentiful,  but  neither  of  these  is  of  much 
value  or  beauty. 

From  the  middle  of  June  to  the  middle  of 
October,  we  had  abundance  of  wild  fruit ;  first, 
strawberries,  almost  white,  small  but  very  sweet ; 
then  raspberries,  both  red  and  orange  color. 
Tkesc  grow  on  a  bush  sometimes  twelve  feet  in 
height :  they  are  not  sweet,  but  of  a  large  size. 

The  months  of  July  and  August  furnish  a  small 
berry  of  an  agreeable,  slightly  acid  flavor ;  this 
berry  grows  on  a  slender  bush  of  some  eight  to 
nme  feet  high,  with  small  round  leaves ;  they  are 
in  size  like  a  wild  cherry  :   some  are  blue,  while 


FRUITS 


285 


ard 
two 

J,  or 

I  con- 
,,  and 

y,  but 

)i\  our 

ak  and 
^f  much 


others  are  of  a  cherry  red :  the  la5<t  boinn;  PinaUor ; 
they  have  no  pits,  or  Htoiios  in  them,  but  seeds, 
such  as  arc  to  be  seen  in  currants. 

I  noticed  in  the  month  of  August  anotn  ycrry 
growing  in  bunches  or  grapes  like  the  currant, 
on  a  bush  very  simihir  to  the  currant  ))us]i :  the 
leaves  of  this  shrub  resemble  those  of  the  laurel : 
they  arc  very  thick  and  always  green.  Tiie  fruit 
is  oblong,  and  disposed  in  two  rows  on  the  stem : 
the  extremity  of  the  berry  is  open,  having  a  little 
speck  or  tuft  like  that  of  an  apple.  It  is  not  of 
a  particularly  fine  flavor,  but  it  is  wliolesouie, 
and  one  may  cat  a  quantity  of  it,  witliout  incon- 
venience. Tlic  natives  make  great  use  of  it ; 
tliey  prepare  it  for  the  winter  by  bruising  and 
drying  it ;  after  which  it  is  moulded  into  cakes 
according  to  fancy,  and  laid  up  for  use.  There 
is  also  a  great  abundance  of  cranberries,  which 
proved  very  useful  as  an  antiscorbutic. 

We  found  also  the  whortleberry,  chokecher- 
ries,  gooseberries,  and  black  currants  with  wild 
crab-apples :  these  last  grow  in  clusters,  are  of 
small  size  and  very  tart.     On  the  upper  part  of 


f   I* 

(' 


■    ■  1' 


% 


28G 


FUANcnr.RE  S    VOYAUK. 


iho  ri\cr  aro  foiiiul  MjicklxM'rios,  li!r/,(»l-nuts, 
acorns,  kc.  '!Mio  couiifrv  also  ])ossossos  n  i»rcat 
vanity  of  nutrilivo  rools  :  Ww.  nalivrs  niaUo  groat 
uso  of  tijoso  wlii  'h  liavo  ih«»  virdio  of  (Miring  or 
])revcn(i!m-  (ho  sourvv.  Wo  a  to  IVoolv  of  tlioni 
wiili  t1»o  same  intonlion,  and  with  tho  sanio  sue 
coss.  Ono  of  (iioso  rools,  whicii  nnioh  rosonihloa 
a  small  onion,  sorvos  ihoni,  in  sonio  sort,  in  plaoo 
of  ohooso,  llavinir  gathci'od  a  sullioiont  (pian- 
tity,  (hoy  bako  (honiwith  rod-hot,  stonos,  until 
the  stoani  eoasos  (o  ooze  from  the  layer  of  grass 
and  earth  with  which  tho  roots  are  covered  ;  then 
they  ponntl  thoni  into  a.  paste,  and  make  tho 
paste  into  loavf's,  of  live  or  six  pounds  weight : 
the  taste  is  not  unlike  liipiorico,  but  not  of  so 
sickly  a  sweetness.  WIumi  wo  made  our  iirst 
V(>yage  up  tho  river  tho  natives  gave  us  S{piaro 
biscuits,  \K^vs  well  worked,  and  ])rint(Ml  with  dif- 
fiM'ont  ligures.  Tlnv^i^  are  made  of  a,  white  root, 
l)ounded,  I'oducod  to  i»asto,  and  di'iod  in  tln^  sun. 
Tiioy  eall  it  ('iHipitlci'l :  it  is  not  very  palatable, 
nor  very  iuitrilivo. 

Hut  the  p:-inei|)al  food  of  the  natives  of  tho  Co- 


FISH. 


2a: 


nnit 

^  or 
l\\om 
3  puc 

(,  uniU 
1'  p:n\sa 
\ ;  i\\cu 

lot  of  so 
)iir  iu'^t 

u\lU  ail- 
hit  0,  root, 

|)a\j\t!V^\o, 
Lr  Uu>  ^^'^' 


Imiibia  is  fisli.  The  sjilmon-fisliorv  bouins  \\\ 
,Fuly:  lluit  fish  is  lioro  of  an  ox(]uisi(o  llavor,  but 
it  is  oxtreinoly  iht  Qi^ul  oily  ;  >v]iich  ronibM's  it  un- 
wliolosonic  Tor  those  \vho  arc  not  acciistonuMl  to 
it,  and  avIio  oat  too  i^roat  a  (i|unntily  :  thus  S(n'tM*a! 
of  our  peoph*  W(U*o  attni'kod  with  diarrlura  in  a 
low  (liiys  aflor  wo  lio^aii  lo  niakt*  Ihis  fish  our 
orcliuary  sus(ouano(» ;  l)ut  th(\v  fouiul  a,  riMuoiiy 
in  tho  raspberries  oi'  tlu^  country  whicii  have  an 
astrin,t>ent  propoi'ly. 

The  months  of  Aui>'ust  and  S(»j)tonil)or  furnish 
oxcellent  sturoeon.  Tins  fish  vari(\s  ex<*oo»iin_uiy 
in  size ;  J  have  seen  souu»  eh'von  l\?ol  h>u^- ;  and 
we  took  one  that  weiuhed,  alhM*  tlie  rtMuoval  of 
tlie  egi^'s  and  intestines,  tlin»e  lunuh'ed  uiid  iiiuoty 
pounds.  Wc  toolv  out  nin(;  pdhuis  of  roc.  The 
sturgeon  does  not  tMiter  tlu'  liver  in  so  groat 
(plant it ios  as  the  salmon. 

In  October  and  N'oviMubiM-  wi»  had  sabnon  too, 
but  of  a  (piito  (UlhM'ont  spoci(»s — hian,  (h-y  jiiul 
insipid.  It  difVers  from  t!ie  otlun*  sort  in  i'ov 
also:  havinir  verv  Ioiili:  teeth,  and  a  hooked  lU) 


m 


like  tho  boak  of  a  parrot.     C)ur  men  termed  it  in 


::v 


'"'■yi./ 


;   ■X■^ 
•   ».■ 


238 


FRANCHERE's   VOYiGE. 


■■■'•f.-' 


Si.  < 


'!:  1 


derision  "  seven  bark  salmon,"  ))ecause  it  had 
almost  no  nutritive  substance. 

February  brings  a  small  fish  about  the  size  of 
a  sardine.  It  has  an  exquisite  flavor,  and  is 
taken  in  immense  quantities,  by  means  of  a  scoop 
net,  which  the  Indians,  seated  in  canoes,  plunge 
into  the  schools :  but  the  season  is  short,  not 
even  lasting  two  weeks. 

The  principal  quadrupeds  of  the  country  are 
the  elk,  the  black  and  white  tailed  deer ;  four 
species  of  bear,  distinguished  chiefly  by  the  color 
af  the  fur  or  poil,  to  wit,  the  black,  brown,  white 
and  grisly  bear ;  the  grisly  bear  is  extremely  fe- 
rocious ;  the  white  is  found  on  the  seashore 
toward  the  north ;  the  wolf,  the  panther,  the 
catamount,  the  lynx,  the  raccoon,  the  ground 
hog,  opossum,  mink,  fisher,  beaver,  and  the  land 
and  sea  otter.*  The  sea  otter  has  the  handsom- 
est fur  that  is  known ;  the  skin  surpasses  that  of 
the  land  variety  in  size  and  in  the  beauty  of  the 
poll;  the  most  esteemed  color  is  the  silver  gray, 

*  Horsos  arc  abundant  up  tliR  rivor;  but  they  are  not  indige- 
noui  to  the  country.     They  will  be  spoken  of  iu  a  future  chapter. 


BIRDS. 


239 


t  had 

size  of 
and  is 
a  scoop 
plunge 


which  is  highly  prized  in  the  Indies,  and  com- 
mands a  great  price. 

The  most  remarkable  birds  are  tlie  eagle,  the 
turkey-bnzzard,  the  hawk,  pelican,  heron,  gull, 
cormorant,  crane,  swan,  and  a  great  variety  of 
wild  ducks  and  geese.  The  pigeon,  woodcock, 
and  pheasant,  are  found  in  the  forests  as  with  us. 


■\ 


mtry  are 

er;  four 

the  color 

^vTi,  white 

remely  fe- 
seashore 

Lther,  the 
^Q  ground 
the  land 
handsom- 
^ses  that  of 
,uty  of  the 
silver  gray, 


iro  not  indige- 
I  future  chapter. 


in 

'A!      ' 


3^  ■■.■5! 


^*'.. 


A: 


240 


FBAr-IIER^'S  VOYAGE. 


'-Tv^^ 

* 

'•*>:■'   ^  -I 

■I 

.  ''i^:-*--' 

.; 

■''H-"^ 

,  *" 

,-..t^v. 

.      "i    W    ,  ■  - 

■  y  ■ 

,|^gi 

.•■;t 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


<(.r     of  the  Natives  on  the  RWcr 

THB  natives  inhabiting  on  *eCoU-mbia,  from 
TofthatrivertotUefalls,thatistosay, 
^'7C     0— .abont.50.i.s.o.^ 

to  west,  are,  „  ^^^^ 

few  of  tlicm  passmg  five  toet  s 

t  .vcn  five  feet.    Tfiey  pluck  ont  the 
""vtr— onheotherlndiansofNoHh 

'"':;ri-^  the  old  men  only  suffer  a 
Amenca ;  but    fe  ^^^^,, 

tuft  to  grow  upon  tbeu  ohms. 
tl,om  wc  were  exceedingly  surprised  to  see 
Clldal^ost  all  fiattened  heads.    TMsc.- 

:;.ationi.notanaturald.ornnty« 

„f  aH  caused  by  compression  of  the 
;;:y.Itshoclcsstrangcrse.tremely,especiallyat 


(r 


II 

•"  "^fc^^^lw^ 

*t)  Ijjjit'  -^1^ 

n 

1 

SLAVES. 


241 


)n 


tVic  B^^cr 


abia,  from 
bis  to  say, 
3  from  east 
)^  stature, 
Indies,  an^ 


first  sight;  nevertheless,  among  these  harlmrians 
it  is  an.  indispensal)le  oriianiont:  and  wlieii  we 
signified  to  them  liow  much  this  mode  of  flattening 
the  fi>rehead  appeared  to  us  to  viohitc  nature  and 
good  taste,  they  answered  that  it  was  only  slaves 
who  had  not  their  heads  flattened.  The  slaves, 
in  fact,  have  the  usual  rounded  head,  and  tliey 
are  not  permitted  to  flatten  the  foreheads  of  their 
children,  destined  to  bear  the  chains  of  their 
sires.  The  natives  of  the  Columbia  procure 
these  slaves  from  the  neidiborini'-  tril)es,  and 
from  the  interior,  in  exchange  f(jr  beads  and  furs. 
They  treat  them  with  humanity  while  theii*  ser- 
vices arc  useful,  but  as  soon  as  they  become  in- 
capable of  labor,  neglect  them  and  suffer  them 
to  perish  of  want.  Wlien  dead,  they  throw  their 
l)odies,  without  ceremony,  under  the  stump  of  an 
old  decayed  tree,  or  drag  them  to  the  woods  to 
be  devoured  by  the  wolves  and  vultures. 

The  Indians  of  the  Colnniliia  are  of  a  light 
copper  color,  active  in  l»o(ly,  and,  above  all,  ex- 
coUout  swinmiers.  Tliey  are  addicted  to  theft,  or 
rather,  they  make  no  scruple  of  laying  hands  on 

n 


tp.y 


'  ^ 


•  U^' 


>* 


J 


It.  '1  .' 


>  •' 


w 


H         j'S 


^■Si^'   I 


m 


242 


FllANCHKUK'S   VOYAGE. 


.«o.«uUstUc.  in  tUo  property  of  Bt^n,. 

.,„r  tW  can  fuu.  au  opportu^- J 
goods  audcffccts  otEavopcanman«fact«.e  a. 

.        •     Ao   eves  of  these  barbarians,  that 
precious  in  the  eyc»  o  „toaling 

Ly  rarely  resist  the^  temptation  ot   stealing 

'' «  sava.es   are  not  addicted  to  intempo- 

.+ +1,0  otlicr  American 
ranee,  nnlilcc,  in  that  respect  tl>e  othe 

+  ..nf  al^o  except  the  i  aia^o 
ludians,  if  Ave  must  not  also  .^^^^ 

1     m-o  the  Flathcads,  regard  intoxicating 
nians, wlw,  like  the  r  lai  ,vm<rracc- 

arinUs  as  poisons,  and  drunkenness  as  dis„  ac 
,     I. ill  relate  a  fact  in  point:   one  of  *e 

'11  of  the  chief  Comco^ly  being  at  the  estal> 

Xnentoneday,soincoftheg— n— d 

themselves  .ithmaiang  hi.  dnnlcw.,  and  ^ 

.r,  rlvunk     He  was  sick  m  const 
WIS  very  soon  aiunK.     ^ 
:ice,:ndre.ainedinastateofstuporf.^^^ 

days.  The  old  chief  came  to  reproach  us  say  ng 
t^we  had  degraded  his  son  by  exposing  lu^ 
:i  ridicule  of  tiie  Slaves,  and  besought ^ - 

to  induce  him  total,  strong  liquors  in  l^ur^. 

The  men  go  entirely  naked,  not  coneealm  J. 
part  of  their  bodies.    Only  in  winter  they  throw 


fi^ 


DRESS  OF  THE  WOMEN. 


24B 


gci'S, 

ire  so 

tealitig 

utcinpo- 
iTicrlcati 

,  I'atago- 

oxicatmg 

disgracc- 

uc  of  the 

tlie  cstab- 

en  amused 

Liic,  and  lie 
iti  conse- 

ipor  for  tNVO 
ti  us,  saying 
Lposing  lii«^ 
)uglit  us  not 
ia  future, 
[uccaling  any 
.r  they  throw 


over  tlio  .shoulders  a  panther's  skin,  or  else  a 
sort  of  mantle  made  of  the  skuis  of  wood-rats 
sewed  together.  In  rainy  weather  I  liave  seen 
them  wear  a  mantle  of  rush  mats,  like  a  Roman 
toga,  or  the  vestment  which  a  priest  wears  in 
celebrating  mass ;  thus  equipped,  and  furnished 
with  a  conical  hat  made  from  iib.vous  roots  and 
impermeable,  they  may  call  themselves  rain-proof. 
The  w^omen,  in  addition  to  the  n.antle  of  skins, 
wear  a  petticoat  made  of  the  cedar  bark,  which 
they  attach  round  the  girdle,  and  wliich  reaches 
to  the  middle  of  the  thigh.  It  is  a  little  longer 
behind  than  before,  and  is  fabricated  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  They  strip  off  the  fine  bark  of 
the  cedar,  soak  it  as  one  soaks  hemp,  and  when 
it  is  drawn  out  into  fibres,  work  it  into  a  fringe ; 
then  with  a  strong  cord  they  bind  the  fringes 
together.  "With  so  poor  a  vestment  tliey  contrive 
to  satisfy  the  requirements  of  modesty ;  when 
they  stand  it  drapes  them  fairly  enough ;  and 
when  they  squat  down  in  their  manner,  it  falls 
between  their  legs,  leaving  nothing  exposed  ]jut 
the  bare  knees  and  thighs.    Some  of  the  younger 


f'l^H^ 

,— ^^^mJ^^^^MHIH^H 

1  !i^S'!| 

#' 

■iV&^  '' 

•^ 

"''m. 

, 

,"» ■••• 

■    ,i     '■•     : 

** 

\         ''»ii.: 

■  •-■v'.-^^ 

^vl:v, 

' 

s     .^^:^.' 

»   t  . 

>"  1,,    , 

1 

I  ''.  "•,■,; 

}             ■*-■.:• 

^i:'  ■: 

•'^^■■-,^ 

I 

'  4  ' 


m 


franciiehe's  voyage. 


244  - 

twist  Ae  fibres  of  baric  into  smaU  cords 

^'"Ti: :  ^t:^-- -^'' ^™*  ^"°^^ 

'I'^PO^'^'^  "^   '         Vof  bettor  appearance, 
easily  icept  clean  and  of  bettc     IP  ^^^^^^^ 

•^    VI  nf    n    Virtue   <iui^"& 

Cleanliness  «  not  ^^^^  ^^^^^^. 

,.ales,  .bo,  in  tbat  respect   re  on. 

^"""^\~rl  bair  .itb  fisb  oil,  .bleb 

"'"       ';;ffr.n  ag-able  perfume.    Tboir 
does  notdiff«»o  an     .  ;ot  black; 

,  .  1    1    fi.  Qoxos  wear  long;  i»  J^ 
hair  (wliicli  both  scxcb 

^  n    1   1  ,f  ..nrtcd  in  the  middle,  as 

^«  *«  -*°'"  ;\'V  1  Jentionod.     Son.- 
^"'"^''^.«^oV^enren,tboy  paint  tbo 

''"^^"tua^llcartb»i.ed^vitbfisb-oil. 

^^■^'"^"'^'^'"tensist  of  bracelets  of  brass, 
Their  ornamcnt»  consist 
1  VI,  thoy  wear  indifferently  on  tbo  ^M>st 

f  trin..s  of  beads  of  different  colors 
"''"^  tironcetotbeblne),anddis. 
(tbey  g-o  a  piofei  1  ^^^^^^  ^^,, 

,,,ed  in  groat  pro— ^^^^^ 

-^"^'^"'Vt'toir   ordinary   circnlatin, 

Ilaiqm,  .luob  aie 

medium.    Those  shells  are  found  b.yon 


FEMALE   OCCUPATIONS. 


245 


cords? 
iticoat, 

t  more 

c. 

hcsc  fe- 
\xQ  other 
jy .  anoint 

.0.    Their 
jet  Hack; 
tniddlc,  as 
p,  and  Ivcpt 
cd.     Sonie- 
y  paint  the 
with  fish-oil. 
,^g  of  l)rass? 
^0  v.rrists  and  , 
Lrcnt  colors 

no),  aird  dis- 
Itho  neck,  and 

b  shells,  callod 

^^.y   circnlatiu? 

,a  beyond  the 


straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca^  and  are  from  one  to 
four  inches  long,  and  about  luxlf  au  inch  in  diam- 
eter: they  are  a  little  curved  and  naturally 
perforated :  the  longest  are  most  valued.  The 
price  of  all  commodities  is  reckoned  in  tliesc 
shells  ;  a  fatliom  string  of  the  largest  of  them  is 
worth  about  ten  beaver-skins. 

Although  a  little  less  slaves  than  the  greater 
part  of  the  Indian  women  elsewhere,  the  women 
on  the  Columbia  are,  nevertheless,  charged  with 
the  most  painful  labors ;  they  fetch  water  and 
wood,  and  carry  the  goods  in  their  frequent 
changes  of  residence  ;  they  clean  the  fish  and  cut 
it  up  for  drying ;  they  prepare  the  food  and  cook 
the  fruits  in  their  season.  Among  their  principal 
occupations  is  that  of  making  rush  mats,  baskets 
for  gathering  roots,  and  hats  very  ingeniously 
wrought.  As  they  want  little  clothing,  they  do 
not  sew  much,  and  the  men  have  the  needle  in 
hand  oftener  than  they. 

The  men  are  not  lazy,  especially  during  the 
fishing  season.  Not  l)eing  hunters,  and  eating, 
consequently,  little  flesh-meat  (although  they  arc 


til,      ; 


'  1, '   • , 


ft!j-;i. 


3 


246  FBANcnr-nF/s  voyaoe. 

Priucipal   diet.     They  l-rofit,  tUcrcfovc,  by 

.hen  it  is  to  bo  had,  by  taldng  as  much 

season  when  ii  i»  i-^  , 

•      *i.af  +l\o  intervals  wui  uu 
as  they  can ;  knowm-  that  tlio  init 

Their  canoes  arc  all  maac  o 
,i„„lo  trunk  :.e  saw  some  .hich  .ore  hvcf^e 

:  L  at  midships,  and  thirty  foot  iulou,th;  to 

lo  the  largest,  and  .iU  carry  from  25 

„    f  ™-,ll  rarrv  but  two  or  throe, 
men ;  tlio  smallest  wiU  carry 

•     t„  in  1  very  elongated  pomt, 
The  bows  termmatc  in  a  vay         = 
Inning  out  four  or  five  feet  from  the  water  im. 

eonstitutes  a  separate  piece,  very  ing— ly 
Ud.and  serves  to-the-..^^^ 
or  the  wave  on  a  rough  sea.    In  land  "g 
put  the  canoe  round,  so  as  to  strike  the  beae 
Lrn  on.    Their  oars  or  paddles  are  made  of 
r:  and  are  about  five  feet  long  with  a    road 

Uade,  in  the  shape  of  an  inverted  crescent,   n 
.eroL  at  the  top,  like  the  handle  of  a  cru.. 

The  object  of  the  crescent  shape  of  the  blade 
to  be  able  to  draw  it,  edge-wise,  through  the 


THMTR    IIOUSKS. 


217 


,  tliclv 

)y    tllC 
i  iniicli 
will  1)0 
ss  tlicy 

xnd  of  a 
iivc  feet    ^ 
th ;  tliese 
25  to  30 
or  tlircc. 
ted  point, 
vater  lino, 
ngeiiiously 
m  landing, 
iiding  they 

tlio  bcacli 
made  of 
ith  a  broad 
rescent,  and 

f  a  crutcli. 

the  blade  is 

tbrougli  tbe 


re 


3 


water  without  making  any  «oise,  when  tliey  hunt 
the  soa-ottor,  an  animal  which  can  only  l>o 
cauuht  when  it  is  lyiiii;'  asleep  on  the  I'ocks,  and 
whieh  lias  the  sense  of  h(>aring  very  acjute.  All 
their  canoes  are  painted  red,  and  riuicifnily  deco- 
rated. 

Their  houses,  constructed  of  cedar,  arc  re- 
markable for  their  form  and  size :  some  of  them 
arc  one  hundred  feet  in  length  by  thirty  or 
forty  feet  in  width.  They  arc  constructed  as 
follows:  An  oblong  square  of  tlie  intiuided  size 
of  the  building  is  dug  out  to  the  de[»th  of  two 
or  three  feet ;  a  double  row  of  cedar  posts  is 
driven  into  the  earth  about  ten  feet  apart;  be- 
tween these  the  planks  are  laid,  overlapping  each 
other  to  the  requisite  height.  The  roof  is  formed 
by  a  ridge-pole  laid  on  taller  posts,  notched  to 
receive  it,  and  is  constructed  with  rafters  and 
planks  laid  clapboarJ-wisc,  and  secured  by  cords 
for  want  of  nails.  AVhen  tlic  house  is  desiirned 
for  several  families,  there  is  a  door  for  each,  and 
a  separate  firejdace ;  the  smoke  escapes  through 
an  aperture   formed    l>y   removing   one   of  tbo 


248 


r[lANt'Ili:UK  S    V()VA(iK. 


Pi 


r-^ ". » 


boards  ol'  the  roof.  Tli(3  door  is  low,  of  an  oval 
Rliape,  and  is  ]irovided  willi  a  ladder,  cut  out  of 
a  lo^^  (o  descend  Inlo  (lie  lodi;"e.  The  entrance 
is  ft'eneridly  efleele<l  s(ern-lorenK»st. 

Tlir  kitchen  utensils  consist  of  ])lates  of  ash- 
wood,  howls  of  iilirous  roots,  iind  a  wooden  ket- 
tle:  with  these  thev  succeed  in  cookin<i'  their  fish 
and  meat  in  less  time  than  we  tak(;  \vith  the  help 
of  pots  and  stcwpans.  Sec  how  they  do  it! 
Having*  heated  a  number  of  stones  red-hot,  they 
plung'c  them,  one  by  one,  in  the  vessel  which  is 
to  contain  the  food  to  be  })repared  ;  as  soon  as 
the  water  boils,  they  put  in  the  fish  or  meat,  with 
some  more  heated  stones  on  to}),  and  cover  up 
the  whole  with  small  rusli  mats,  to  retain  the 
steam.  In  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time 
the  article  is  taken  out  and  placed  on  a  wooden 
platter,  perfectly  done  and  very  palatable.  The 
broth  is  taken  out  also,  with  a  ladle  of  wood 
or  horn. 

It  will  be  asked,  no  douljt,  what  instruments 
these  savages  use  in  the  construction  of  their 
canoes  and  their  houses.    To  cause  their  patience 


Cv- 


Til  EI  U   TOOLS. 


210 


u  ovjvl 
out  of 
itrancn 


\vn  Ivct- 
heii*  fi^^n 

the  lielp 
f   do   itl 
-liut,  they 
,  ^vUicli  is 
^s  soon  as 
meat,  NvHh 
[  cover  up 

retain  the 
iQ  of  time 
1  a  wooden 

able.    The 

Ic  of  wood 

instruments 

ion  of  theii- 
Ueir  patience 


and  industry  to  1)0  admired  lu  mucli  as  tlicy 
deserve,  it  will  be  sudieient  for  me  to  nuMition 
that  we  did  not  find  among  them  a  single  liatehet: 
their  only  to(ds  consisted  of  an  ineli  or  lialf-ineh 
chisel,  usnally  made  of  an  old  file,  and  of  a  mal- 
let, which  was  nothing  but  an  oMong  stone. 
"With  these  wretched  implements,  and  wedges 
made  of  hendock  knots,  steejied  in  oil  and 
hardened  by  the  fire,  they  would  undertake  to 
cut  down  the  largest  cedars  of  the  forest,  to 
dig  them  out  and  fashion  them  into  canoes,  to 
split  them,  and  get  out  the  boards  wherewith  to 
build  their  houses.  Such  achievements  with 
such   means,   arc    a    marvel   of   ingenuity   and 

patience. 

11* 


i  \ 


l\ 


;;^r 

\ 

4  -  .,,■ 

' 

.!'■'-    ' 

• 

i 

i  ' 

• .;. 

1- 

1      .^  4 


250 


franciierEkS  voyage. 


CIIArTER   XX. 

Manners  and  Custcims  of  tho  Natives  continuod, —  Thoir  Wars.— 
TliPir  Marnap«^s. —  Mi'dicino  Men. —  Funeral  Ceremonies.— 
Religious  Notions. —  Language. 

The  politics  of  tho  natives  of  the  Columbia  are 
a  simple  aflair :  cr.cli  villag-c  has  its  chief,  but 
that  chief  docs  not  seem  to  exercise  a  great  au- 
thority over  liis  fellow-citizens.  Nevertheless,  at 
his  death,  they  pay  him  great  lienors :  they  use 
a  kind  of  mourning,  Avliich  consists  in  painting 
the  face  Antli  black,  in  lieu  of  gay  colors ;  they 
chant  liis  funeral  song  or  oration  for  a  whole 
month.  The  chiefs  arc  considered  in  proportion 
to  their  riches :  such  a  chief  has  a  great  many 
wives,  slaves,  and  strings  of  beads — he  is  ac- 
counted a  great  chief  These  barbarians  approach 
in  that  respect  to  certain  civilized  nations,  among 
whom  the  worlli  of  a  man  is  estimated  by  the 
quantity  of  gold  lie  possesses. 


MODE   OF   MAKING   WAR. 


251 


Wars.— 

ionics. — 

bia  are 
ief,  but 
rcat  au- 
ilcss,  at 
liey  uso 
tainting 
s ;  they 
wliolo 
portion 
t  many 
e  is  ac- 
pproacli 
among 
by  the 


As  all  tic  villages  form  so  many  indopendent 
sovcreignt  jS,  difTerences  sometimes  arise,  wheth- 
er Ijetwceu  tlic  chiefs  or  the  tribes.     Ordinarily, 
these  terminate  hy  com])ensati()ns  equivalent  to 
the  injury.     Ihit  when  the  latter  is  of  a  grave 
character,  like  a  murder  (which  is  rare),  or  the 
abduction  of  a  woman  (which  is  very  common), 
the  pa  ties,  having  made  sure  of  a  number  of 
young  braves  to  aid  them,  prepare  for  war.     Be- 
fore commencing  hostilities,  however,  tliey  give 
notice  of  tlie  day  when  they  will  proceed  to  at- 
tack the  hostile  vilhige  ;   not  foHowing  in  that 
respect  the  custom  of  almost  all  other  American 
Indians,  who  arc  wont  to  burst  upon  tlieir  enemy 
unawares,  and  to  massacre  or  carry  off  men,  wo- 
men, and  children ;  these  i)eoph3,on  the  contrary, 
embark  in  their  canoes,  wliich  on  these  occasions 
arc  paddled  by  tlie  women,  repair  to  the  hostile 
village,  enter  into  parley,  and  do  all  they  can  to 
terminate  the  alfair  amicably  :  sometimes  a  third 
party  becomes  mediator  l>etween  the  first  two, 
and  of  course  observes  an  exact  muitralitv.     If 
those  who  seek  justice  do  not  obtain  it  to  their 


.u*. 


■i 


:  i 


252 


FIIAXCIIEIIL  S   VOYAGE. 


Rati.sfjiction,  ilicy  n^lirc  to  some  distance,  and  the 
combat  begins,  and  is  continned  for  some  time 
with  fury  on  both  sides  ;  but  as  soon  as  one  or 
two  men  are  killed,  the  party  which  has  lost 
these,  owns  itself  ])eaten  and  the  battle  ceases. 
If  it  is  the  i)eo})le  of  the  village  attacked  who 
arc  worsted,  the  others  do  not  retire  without  re- 
ceiving presents.  AVlien  the  conflict  is  post- 
poned till  tiie  next  day  (for  they  never  light  but 
in  open  dayliglit,  as  if  to  render  nature  witness 
of  their  exploits),  they  keep  uj)  frightful  cries  all 
night  long,  and,  when  tliey  are  suIUciently  near 
to  understand  each  other,  defy  one  another  l)y 
menaces,  railleries,  and  sarcasms,  like  the  heroes 
of  Homer  and  Yii-gil.  The  women  and  children 
are  always  removed  from  the  village  before  the 
action. 

Their  combats  are  almost  all  maritime :  for 
they  fight  ordinarily  in  their  [urogues,  which  they 
take  care  to  careen,  so  as  to  present  the  broad- 
side to  \]u)  enemv,  and  half  Ivino*  down,  avoid 
the  greater  part  of  the  arrows  let  (ly  at  them. 

But  the  chief  reason  of  the  bloodlessness  of 


TFIFJR  WEAPONS. 


253 


the 
ime 
2  or 

lost 
ascs. 
L  wlio 
Lit  rc- 

post- 
Ut  but 
v'itncss 
vies  all 
ly  near 

\\iiv  by 

heroes 
khildvcn 

ore  tliG 

liie:   for 
lick  tlicy 
[^  hroad- 
III,  avoid 
them. 
Isucss  of 


their  combats  is  the  iiicfiicieiicy  of  tlicir  offensive 
weapons,  and  the  excellence  of  tlieir  defensive 
armor.  Tlicir  offensive  arms  are  merely  a  bow 
and  arrow,  and  a  kind  of  doulde-edgcd  sabre, 
about  two  and  a  lialf  feet  long,  and  six  inches 
wide  in  the  blade :  they  rarely  come  to  sufficiently 
close  quarters  to  make  use  of  the  last.  For  de- 
fensive armor  they  wear  a  cassock  or  tunic  of  elk- 
skin  double,  descending  to  iha  ankles,  with  lioles 
for  the  arms.  It  is  impenetrable  l>y  their  arrows, 
which  can  not  pierce  two  tliicknesscs  of  leather ; 
and  as  their  heads  are  also  covered  witli  a  sort 
of  lielmet,  the  neck  is  almost  the  only  part  iii 
which  they  can  be  wounded.  They  have  another 
kind  of  corslet,  made  like  the  corsets  of  our  la- 
dies, of  splinters  of  hard  wood  interlaced  with 
nettle  twine.  The  warrior  who  wears  this  cuirass 
does  not  use  tlie  tunic  of  elk-skin ;  he  is  conse- 
quently less  protected,  but  a  great  deal  more 
free ;  the  said  tunic  being  very  heavy  and  very 
stiff 

It  is  almost  useless  to  observe  tliat,  in  tlieir 
military  expeditions,  they  have  their  bodies  and 


« 


r   < 


254 


FRANCHERE  S  VOYAGE, 


't-' 


<  I 

•  1 


faces  daubed  witli  different  paints,  often  of  the 
most  extravagant  designs.  I  remember  to  have 
seen  a  war-chief,  with  one  exact  half  of  his  face 
painted  white  and  the  other  lialf  black. 

Their  marriages  are  conducted  with  a  good 
deal  of  ceremony.  When  a  young  man  seeks  p, 
girl  in  marriage,  his  parents  make  the  proposals 
to  those  of  the  intended  bride,  and  when  it  has 
been  agreed  upon  what  presents  the  future  bride- 
groom is  to  offer  to  the  parents  of  the  bride,  all 
parties  assemble  at  the  house  of  the  latter, 
whither  the  neighbors  are  invited  to  witness  the 
contract.  The  presents,  which  consist  of  slaves, 
vStrings  of  l)eads,  copper  bracelets,  haiqiia  sh'^ls, 
&G. ,  are  distributed  by  the  young  man,  who,  on 
his  part  receives  as  manj^,  and  sometimes  more, 
according  to  the  means  or  the  murdficencc  of  the 
parents  of  his  betrothed.  The  latter  is  then  led 
forward  by  the  old  matrons  and  presented  to  the 
young  man,  who  takes  her  as  his  wife,  and  all  re- 
tire to  their  quarters. 

The  men  are  not  very  scrupulous  in  their  choice, 
and  take  small  pains  to  inform  themselves  what 


MARRIAGES. 


255 


the 
lave 
facG 


o;00d 


)Osals 

it  lias 

bridc- 

de,  all 

latter, 

ess  the 
slaves, 
shells, 

who,  on 
s  more, 
3  of  the 
hen  led 
d  to  the 
id  all  re- 

ir  choice, 
Ives  what 


conduct  a  young  girl  has  observed  licforc  her 
nuptials ;  and  it  must  be  owned  tliat  few  mar- 
riages would  take  place,  if  the  youth  would  only 
espouse  maidens  without  reproach  on  the  scoro 
of  chastity ;  for  the  unmarried  girls  arc  l)y  no 
means  scrupulous  in  that  particular,  and  their 
parents  give  tlieni,  on  that  head,  full  liberty.  But 
once  the  marriage  is  contracted,  the  spouses 
observe  toward  each  other  an  inviolable  fidelity; 
adultery  is  almost  unknoAvn  among  them,  and 
the  woman  who  should  be  guilty  of  it  would  bo 
punished  with  death.  At  the  same  time,  the 
husband  may  repudiate  his  wife,  and  the  latter 
may  then  unite  herself  in  marriage  to  another 
man.  Polygamy  is  permitted,  indeed  is  cus- 
tomary; there  are  some  who  have  as  many 
as  four  or  five  wives ;  and  although  it  often 
happens  that  the  hus1)and  loves  one  better  than 
the  rest,  they  never  show  any  iealousy,  but  live 
together  in  the  most  perfect  concord.* 

*  Tliis  appears  improbablp,  iincl  is,  no  doul)t,  ovprstiitntl ;  but  so 
far  as  it  is  true,  only  shows  tlie  (legruclation  of  these  women,  and 
the  absence  of  moral  love  on  both  sides.  Tlie  indifference  to 
virgin  chastity  described  by  Mr.  F.,  ig  a  characteristic  of  barbur- 


i 


\m 


*M 


1: 

.■  .1  ■'>■■">.  : 

I;   ■•*:■ 


tf/'i/.. 


•♦■■ 


■'  ■4:: ^ 


.1' 


'^1' 


2e56 


FR ANCII i:U,K  S   Vp Y AC; E . 


There  are  cliaiiataiis  cvoiywlierc,  but  they  aro 
more  numerous  among  savages  than  anywhere 
else,  ])eeauso  among  these  ignorant  and  supersti- 
tious people  the  trade  is  at  once  more  profitable 
and  less  dangerous.  As  soon  as  a  native  of  the 
Columbia  is  indisposed,  no  matter  wliat  the 
malady,  they  send  for  the  medicine  man,  who 
treats  the  patient  in  the  absurd  manner  usually 
adopted  by  these  impostors,  and  with  such  vio- 
lence of  manipulation,  that  often  a  sick  man, 
whom  a  timely  bleeding  or  purgative  would  have 
saved,  is  carried  off  by  a  sudden  death. 

They  deposite  their  dead  in  canoes,  on  rocks 
sufficiently  elevated  not  to  be  overflowed  by  the 
spring  freshets.  By  the  side  of  the  dead  are  laid 
his  bow,  his  arrows,  and  some   of  his  fishing 

ous  nations  in  goneral,  and  is  explained  by  the  pniuMi)Io  stated  in 
the  next  note  below  ;  the  savage  state  being  essentially  one  in  which 
the  supernatural  bond  of  human  fellowship  is  snapped  :  it  is  (as 
it  has  been  called)  the  state  of  nalurc,  in  which  continence 
is  practically  impossible ;  and  what  niim  can  not  have,  that  they 
soon  cease  to  prize.  Tlio  same  utter  indifilrence  to  the  past  con- 
duct of  the  girls  they  marry  is  mentioned  by  Mayhkw  as  existing 
among  the  costernioiigers  and  street  pojiulation  of  London,  wliom 
he  well  likens  to  the  barbarous  tribes  lying  on  the  outskirts  of  more 
Qncient  nations.— Ed. 


WORSHIP. 


257 


y  avo 

pcrsti- 
fitablc 
of  the 
at  the 
11,  who 
usually 
ucli  vio- 
clc  man, 
uld  liavc 

on  rocks 
d  by  the 
d  arc  laid 
\s  fishing 


•'I 


,lo  stated  in 
one  in  which 

pod :  it  is  (fis 
\i  continence 

•ivi.,  iViat  they 
,  tlio  pa^t  con- 
•AV  as  existing 
),ulon,  whom 
Ltskii-tsofmoro 


implements ;  if  it  is  a  woman,  her  beads  and 
bracelets :  the  wives,  the  relatives  and  the  slaves 
of  the  defunct  cut  their  luiir  in  sign  of  grief,  and 
for  several  days,  at  tlie  rising  and  setting  of  the 
sun,  go  to  some  distance  from  tlie  village  to 
chant  a  funeral  song. 

These  people  have  not,  properly  speaking,  a 
public  worship.*  I  could  never  perceive,  during 
my  residence  among  them,  that  they  worshipped 
any  idol.  Tliey  had,  nevertheless,  some  small 
sculptured  figures ;  but  they  appeared  to  hold 
them  in  light  esteem,  offering  to  barter  them  for 
trifles. 

Having  travelled  with  one  of  the  sons  of  the 
chief  of  the  Cliinooks  (Comcomly),  an  intelligent 
and  communicative  young  man,  I  put  to  him  seve- 
ral questions  touching  their  religious  belief,  and 

*  It  is  Coloriilgo  who  ohscrvcs  ihnt  every  tribe  is  larbarous 
which  has  no  recoj^nisod  jnihlic  worsliij)  or  cult,  and  no  regular 
priestliood  as  opposed  to  sclf-conslitutcd  coniun)r.-<.  It  is,  in  fact, 
hy  puhHc  worship  ahme  that  liuman  society  is  orphan i zed  and 
vivitlod  ;  and  it  is  inipossible  to  maintain  such  worsliip  wilhoiit  a 
sacerdotal  order,  however  it  be  constituted.  No  culture  vifhout  a 
cult,  is  the  result  of  the  study  of  the  races  of  mankind.  Ilenco 
tliose  who  would  destroy  religion  arc  the  cnemiea  of  civiliza- 
tion.—  Ed. 


0:; 


ij  -f:'/ 


■i»i;V'" 


ir    .  ^  ^ 


11 


2r,8 


PR  A  XCn  ERE^J^    VO  YA  TJ  R. 


tlio  following  is,  in  substance,  whai.  he  told  mo 
respecting  it :  Men,  according  to  their  ideas,  were 
created  l»y  a  divinity  whom  they  name  E/alapass; 
but  th(;y  were  imi)erfect,  having  a  mouth  tliat 
was  not  opened,  eyes  that  were  fast  closed,  liands 
i.'id  feet  that  were  not  moveable;  in  a  word,  they 
wcii  "ather  statues  of  flesh,  than  living  men.  A 
second  divinity,  whom  they  call  Ecanmim,  less 
powerful,  but  more  benign  than  the  former,  hav- 
ing seen  men  in  their  state  of  imperfection,  took 
a  sharp  stone  and  laid  open  their  mouths  and 
eyes ;  he  gave  agility,  also,  to  their  feet,  and 
motion  to  their  hands.  This  compassionate  di- 
vinity was  not  content  with  conferring  these  fi/st 
benefits  ;  he  taught  men  to  make  canoes,  paddles, 
nets,  and,  in  a  word,  all  the  tools  and  instru- 
ments they  use.  He  did  still  more :  he  threw 
great  rocks  into  the  river,  to  obstruct  the  ascent 
of  the  salmon,  in  order  that  they  might  take  as 
many  as  they  wanted. 

The  natives  of  the  Columbia  further  believe, 
that  the  men  who  have  been  good  citizens,  good 
Mhers,  good  husbands,  and  good  fishermen,  who 


RELIGIOUS  NOTIONS. 


259 


(\  mo 
,  wcro 
ipass ; 
1  thai 

d,  tlicy 
i3n. 


A 


m,  loss 

cr,  liav- 

)n, took 

tlis  and 

oct,  and 

)aatc  dl- 

lese  ftst 
padcilcs, 

d  instru- 
10  threw 
]\Q  ascent 
t  take  as 

,r  believe, 
zcns,  good 
Irmcn,  who 


have  not  committed  murder,  ttc,  will  be  perfect- 
ly happy  after  their  death,  and  will  go  to  a  coun- 
try where  they  will  find  fish,  fruit,  &c.,  in  almn- 
dance ;  and  that,  on  tiie  contrary,  those  wlio 
have  lived  wickedly,  will  inhabit  a  country  of 
fiisting  and  want,  where  they  will  cat  nothing 
but  bitter  roots,  and  have  nothing  to  drink  but 
salt  water. 

If  these  notions  in  regara  t  the  origin  and 
future  destiny  of  man  arc  not  exactly  conformed 
to  sound  reason  or  to  divine  revelation,  it  will  be 
allowed  that  they  do  ii^u  offer  the  absurdities 
with  which  the  mythologies  of  many  ancient  na- 
tions abound.*  The  article  which  makes  skill  in 
fishing  a  virtue  worthy  of  being  compensated  in 
the  other  world,  does  not  disfigure  the  salutary 
and  consoling  dogma  of  the  immortality  of  the 

*  It  seems  clear  that  this  Iiulian  mytlirdogy  is  a  form  of  the 
primitive  tradition  obscured  hy  aymhol.  The  creation  of  man  by 
the  Supreme  Divinity,  but  in  an  imperfect  state  ("his  eyes  not 
yet  opened"),  his  deliverance  from  that  condition  by  an  inferior 
but  more  beneficent  deity  (the  Satan  of  the  Bible),  and  the  prog- 
ress of  the  emancipated  and  enlightened  being,  in  the  arts  of 
industry,  arc  clearly  set  forth.  Thus  the  devil  has  his  cosmogony 
R8  well  as  the  Almighty,  and  his  tradition  in  opposition  to  tho 
divine. — Ed. 


■  ''*'■.  ' 


200 


FIIANCIIKUH  8   VOYA(JK. 


soul,  and  that  oi'  future  rewards  and  punish- 
ments, so  much  as  one  is  at  first  tempted  to 
think  ;  for  if  we  reflect  a  little,  we  sliall  discover 
that  the  skilful  fisherman,  in  laboring  for  himself, 
laliors  also  for  society ;  he  is  a  useful  citizen, 
who  contributes,  as  much  as  lies  in  his  })ower,  to 
avert  from  his  fellow-men  the  scourge  of  famine ; 
he  is  a  religious  man,  wlio  honors  the  divinity  by 
making  use  of  his  benefits.  Surely  a  great  deal 
of  the  theology  of  a  future  life  prevalent  among 
civilized  men,  does  not  excel  this  in  profundity. 

It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  men  perfectly  ig- 
norant, like  these  Indians,  should  be  free  from 
superstitions :  one  of  the  most  ridiculous  they 
have,  regards  the  method  of  preparing  and  eating 
fish.  In  the  month  of  July,  1811,  the  natives 
brought  us  at  first  a  very  scanty  supply  of  the 
fresh  salmon,  from  the  fear  tliat  we  would  cut 
the  fish  crosswise  instead  of  lengthwise ;  being 
persuaded  that  if  we  did  so,  tlie  river  would  be 
obstructed,  and  the  fishing  ruined.  Having  re- 
proached the  chief  on  that  account,  they  brouglit 
us  a  greater  quantity,  but  all  cooked,  and  wliich, 


INTELLECTUAL   CAPACITY. 


201 


miisli- 
:cd  to 
scovor 
hnrfclf, 
[iiti/iCU, 
wcr,  to 
Camine ; 
inity  by 
cat  deal 
t  amonp;    ^ 
Aindity. 
fcctly  i<^- 
frcc  from 
lous  they 
md  eating 
ic  natives 
ply  of  tiie 
would  cut 
isc;  being 
r  would  V^e 
Having  rc- 
ley  brougiit 
and  wlucli, 


not  to  displease  tliem,  it  was  nccessuiy  to  eat 
licfore  sunset.  Rc-assiircd  at  last  by  our  solemn 
promises  not  to  cut  the  fish  crosswise,  they  sup- 
plied us  uluindantly  durin«i;  the  remainder  of  tiic 
season. 

In  spite  of  the  vices  that  niny  be  hi  id  to  the 
charge  of  the  natives  of  the  Columbia,  I  regard 
them  as  nearer  to  a  state  of  civilization  than  any 
of  the  tribes  who  dwell  east  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains. They  did  not  ap})ear  to  me  so  attached 
to  their  customs  that  they  could  lujt  easily  adopt 
tliose  of  civilized  nations:  they  would  dress 
themselves  willingly  in  the  European  mode,  if  they 
had  the  means.  To  encourage  this  taste,  we  lent 
pantaloons  to  the  chiefs  who  visited  ns,  when 
they  wished  to  enter  our  houses,  never  allowing 
them  to  do  it  in  a  state  of  nudity.  They  possess, 
in  an  eminent  degree,  the  qualities  opposed  to 
indolence, improvidence, and  stupidity:  the  chiefs, 
above  all,  are  distinii-uished  for  their  o-ood  sense 
and  intelligence.  Generally  speaking,  tliey  have 
a  ready  intellect  and  a  tcnacicnis  memory.  Thus 
old  Comcondy  recognised  the  mate  of  the   Al- 


f 


.    I    if'' 


262 


FRANCIIEriE's   VOYAGE. 


..^: 

^B  'H^^^^k' 

^K/  tl^^^^Blir 

• 

^n    i^^^^Hfr 

K 

• 

1 

1 

n 

■■f . 

batross  as  having  visited  the  country  rfixtccn 
years  before,  and  recalled  to  tlie  latter  the  name 
of  the  captain  under  whom  ho  had  sailed  at  that 
period. 

Tho  Chinook  language  is  spoken  by  all  tho 
nations  from  tlic  mouth  of  the  Columbia  to  the 
falls.  It  is  hard  and  diflieult  to  pronounce,  for 
strangers ;  being  full  of  gutturals,  like  the  Gaelic. 
The  combinations  thl,  or  //,  and  //,  are  as  frequent 
in  the  Chinook  as  in  the  Mexican.* 

*  Tlirro  can  not  bo  n  doubt  tbat  tbo  existing-  tribps  on  tho  N. 
W.  const,  havo  roachod  that  country  from  tbo  South,  and  not  from 
tbo  North.  Tboy  nro  tbo  dchrix  of  tlio  civiliziifion  of  Central 
America,  cxpellofl  by  a  dofocatiiif^  process  that  is  poinj''  on  in  ull 
human  societies,  and  so  have  sunk  into  barbarism. —  Ed 


!'«:■ 


OUR  RKTTIXG   OUT. 


263 


tccn 

lamo 

that 


il  tho 
,0  tho 
3C,  for 
iacllc. 
cqucut 


on  tho  N. 

I  not  frc»m 

)f  Contnil 

on  in  uU 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Dppnrture  from  Astoria  or  Fort  Goorgo. — Acridont. —  Passage 
of  thn  Dnllos  or  Narrows. —  Grout  Columbian  Dosi'rt. —  Aspoct 
of  the  Countiy.  —  Walltiwalla  mid  Shaptin  Ilivors. —  Ralllo- 
»nakc».— Sumo  Details  rogunling  tho  Natives  of  tho  Upper 
Columbia. 

AVe  quitted  Fort  George  (or  Astoria,  if  you 
please)  on  Monday  morning,  the  4th  of  April, 
1814,  in  ten  canoes,  five  of  which  were  of  bark 
and  five  of  cedar  wood,  carrying  each  seven  men 
as  crew,  and  two  passengers,  in  all  ninety  persons, 
and  all  well  armed.  Messrs.  J.  G.  M'Tavish, 
D.  Stuart,  J.  Clarke,  B.  Fillet,  W.  Wallace,  D. 
M'Gillis,  D.  M'Kenzic,  &c.,  were  of  the  party. 
Nothing  remarkable  occurred  to  us  as  far  as  tho 
first  falls,  which  wo  reached  on  the  10th.  The 
portage  was  eflected  immediately,  and  we  en- 
camped on  an  island  for  the  night.     Our  num- 


MiM 


.  V 


/■■'■'. 


204 


FIlAXCIliniES   VOYAGE. 


bci'S  had  caused  tlic  g:rcatcr  part  of  tlic  natives 
to  take  to  fli.irlit,  and  those  who  remained  in  tlic 
viUages  showed  the  most  pacillc  dispositions. 
They  soM  us  four  liorses  and  tliirty  dogs,  which 
were  immediately  shiuglitered  for  food. 

We  resumed  our  route  on  the  11th,  at  an  early 
hour.  The  wind  was  favorable,  l)ut  blew  with 
violence.  Toward  evening,  tlie  canoe  in  which 
Mr.  X'Tavish  was,  in  doubling  a  point  of  rock, 
was  run  under  by  us  press  of  sail,  and  sunk. 
IFappily  the  river  was  not  deep  at  this  j  lace;  no 
one  was  drowned  ;  and  we  succeeded  in  saving 
all  tlie  goods.  Tliis  accident  compelled  u^  to 
camp  at  an  early  hour. 

On  the  12th,  we  arrived  at  a  ra})id  called  the 
Dalles:  this  is  a  channel  cut  ])v  nature  throuii;h 
the  rocks,  which  arc  here  almof^t  perpendicular: 
the  channel  is  from  loO  to  800  feet  wide,  and 
about  two  miles  long.  The  wliole  body  of  the 
river  ruslies  tlirougli  it,  with  great  violence,  and 
riMiders  navigation  impracticable.  The  portage 
occii[)iL'd  us  till  dusk.  All  hough  \\(\  liad  iu)t  seen 
a  single  Indian  in  the  course  of  the  day,  we  kept 


it  its 


PLAINS   OF   TlIK   COLUMUIA. 


21).) 


Ivcs 
the 

rlllch 

early 
AvltU 

^vhicl^ 
rock, 
suulc. 

,cc;  no 
saving 
us  to 

cd  tl\o 
hrough 
licular : 
do,  and 
of  the 
uco,  and 
])orta;j-e 
not  scon 
wc  kept 


sentinels  on  duly  all  night:   for  it  was  lierc  lliat 
^lessrs.  l^tuart  and  Heed  were  attacked  I)y  the  * 
natives. 

On  tlie  10th,  wc  made  two  more  porta^^es,  and 
met  Indians,  of  wliom  we  pnreliased  horses  and 
wood.  Wc  camped  early  on  a  sandy  ])lain,  where 
wc  passed  a  bad  night;  (he  wind,  whieh  l)lew 
violently,  raised  clouds  of  sand,  whieh  ineoni- 
modcd  us  greatly,  and  spoiled  every  nioutafnl  of 
food  we  took. 

On  the  14tli  and   ir)th,  wo  passed   wliat  are 

called  the  Great  Plains  of  the  Colnmhia.     From 

the  top  of  the  first  rai)id  to  tiiis  ])oint,  llie  aspect 

of  the  country  l)ecomcs  more  and  more  triste  and 

disagreeable  ;  one  meets  at  first  nothing  but  bare 

liills,  which  scarcely  otTer  a  few  isolated  j)ines,  at 

a  great  distance  from  each  otiier ;  after  that,  the 

earth,  stripped  of  verdure,  does  not  aftbrd  you 

the  sight  of  a  single  shrul);  the  little  grass  wiiieh 

^rrowb    in   that  arid  soil,   a))pears  l)iirnl   by  tlu? 

rigor  of  the  climate.  The  natives  wlio  frecpient  the 

hunks  of  tlie  river,  for  tlic  salmon  lish-M-y,  have 

uo  other  wood  but  tliat  which  tliev  take  lh)ating 

12 


I     -  '*•¥''•;»  . , 
I-       '■*■■'.♦ 

|;    •.■*■?-'':''    ■ 
«"■  *;■   ■-■' 

'■• -.1  ■ 
J,  '• 

"  ■■♦.  ;- 


'%■ 


V  i 


:'•! 


«i  t 


■  t 


266 


FUAXCllKllES   VOYAGE. 


clown.     "\Vc  passed  .several  rapids,  and  a  small 
.stream  called Utalali,  Avliicli  Hows  from  tlic  south- 
east. 

On  the  IGtli,  Ave  fi)up.d  the  river  narrowed  ;  tiio 
hanks  rose  on  either  side  in  elevations,  without, 
however,  offering-  a  single  tree.  We  reached  the 
river  Wallairalla^  wliich  empties  into  tlie  Colum- 
Lia  on  tlie  soutiieast.  It  is  narrow  at  its  conllu- 
encc,  and  is  not  navigable  for  any  great  distance. 
A  range  of  mountains  was  visible  to  the  S.  E... 
about  lifty  or  sixty  miles  off.  Behind  these  moun- 
tains the  country  becomes  again  flat  and  sandy, 
and  is  inhaluted  by  a  tribe  called  the  Snakes. 
Wc  found  on  the  left  bank  of  tlie  WaUaivalh^  an 
cncamjmient  of  Indian:',  consisting  of  about  twen- 
ty lodges.  They  sold  us  six  dogs  and  eight 
horses,  the  greater  ])art  cxtreniely  lean.  "\Vc 
killed  two  of  the  horses  innnediately  :  I  mounted 
one  of  the  six  that  remained ;  ^\\\  Ross  took 
another ;  anO  we  drove  the  other  four  before  us. 
Toward  the  decline  of  day  wc  passed  the  river 
Lewis,  called,  in  the  language  of  the  country,  the 
Sha-np-dn.     It  como>  from  the  S.  E.,  and  is  tln^ 


TRAIRIE   DOGS. 


267 


nnall 
vjuili- 

1 ;  tno 

itliout, 

cd  t^^c 

Colum- 

contlu- 

istance. 

c  S.  E.. 

;c  moun- 

d  sandy, 
Snakes. 

calh,  an 
ut  tr-^rt- 
ud  ciglit 
111.     ^Vc 
mounted 
k)ss  took 
|)ctovc  us.  ^ 
the  river 

lud  is  th<^ 


same  that  Lewis  and  Clarke  descended  in  1805. 
The  Sha-ap-tui  appeared  to  me  to  have  little 
deptli,  and  to  Ijc  about  300  yards  wide,  at  its 
confluence. 

The  country  through  which  we  were  now  pas- 
sing, was  a  mingling  of*  hills,  steep  rocks,  and 
valleys  covered  with  wormwood  ;  the  stems  of 
wliicli  slirul)  arc  nearly  six  inches  thick,  and 
might  serve  for  fuel.  "We  killed  six  rattlesnakes 
on  the  lotli,  and  on  the  10th  saw  a  great  many 
more  among  the  rocks.  Tiiese  dangerous  rej)- 
tiles  appeared  to  l>e  very  numerous  in  lliis  part 
of  the  country.  The  plains  are  also  inhabited  by 
a  little  quadruped,  only  about  eight  or  nine  inch- 
es in  length,  and  approaching  the  dog  in  A)rm. 
These  animals  have  the  hair,  or /w«7,  of  a  reddish 
brown,  and  strong  fore-paws,  armed  witli  long 
claws  which  serve  them  to  dig  out  tiieir  holes 
imder  the  earth.  Tiiey  have  a  great  deal  of 
curiosity :  as  soon  as  they  hear  a  noise  they  come 
out  of  their  liole;  d  bark.  They  arc  not  vicious, 
but,  thougli  'jasily  tamed,  can  not  'oc  domesti- 
cated. 


(    1  a 


Vi 


"^•' 


•  jwygs 


I 


268 


FRA xcii i:iu-:  s  vo ya» ;  k. 


The  natives  of  the  upper  Coluiiihia,  b<^o-iiniing 
at  the  lulls,  diller  essentially  in  lanu'uage,  num- 
ncrs,  and  habits,  IVoni  those  of  whom  I  have 
8])oken  in  the  preceding  chapters.  They  do  not 
dwell  in  villages,  like  the  latter,  but  arc  nomads, 
like  the  Tartars  and  tlic  Ara])s  of  the  desert: 
their  women  are  more  industrious,  and  the  young 
girls  more  reserved  and  chaste  than  those  of  the 
populations  lower  down.  They  do  not  go  naked, 
but  both  sexes  wear  ha))its  made  of  dressed  deer- 
skin, which  tliey  take  care  to  rub  with  chalk,  to 
keep  them  clean  and  white.  They  arc  almost 
always  seen  on  horsel)ack,  and  are  in  general 
good  riders ;  they  pursue  the  deer  and  i)enetrato 
even  to  MissouJ'i,  to  kill  buffalo,  tlie  flesh  of  which 
they  dry,  a:.«i  ^»ring  it  back  on  their  liorscs,  to 
nuikc  their  |)rincii)al  food  during  the  winter. 
These  exi)editious  arc  not  free  from  danger  ;  for 
they  have  a  great  deal  to  apprehend  from  the 
Black-feet,  who  are  tlieir  enemies.  As  this  last 
tribe  is  powerful  and  ferocious,  the  Snakes,  the 
Pierced-norcs  or  Sha-ajh/.ins,  the  F/atheacls,  etc., 
make  connnon  cause  against  them,  when  the  for- 


1-:         ' 


km 


THE  rprKR  roixMiiiA. 


mg 


lau- 
lavc 
I  not 


rads, 
rtcrt : 
roung 
)f  the 
lakcd, 
I  dccr- 

allc,  to 

uliuost 

geucval 

uctvatc 
f  >YliicU 
rsos,  to 
Avintcr. 
rcr;  for 
roui  tlio 
thiri  last 
,/A'es,  tUc 
a(/s,  ^^"> 
u  tlic  for- 


mer go  to  hunt  cast  of  tlic  mountains.  They  set 
out  with  their  families,  and  tlie  cavalcade  often 
numbers  two  tliousand  horses.  When  tliey  Inive 
the  good  fortune  not  to  encounter  the  enemy,  they 
return  with  the  s})oils  of  an  abundant  clnise  ;  tliey 
load  a  part  of  their  liorses  witii  the  hides  and 
buef,  and  return  home  to  pass  tlie  winter  in  pence. 
Sometimes,  on  the  contrary,  tliev  are  so  liarassed 
by  tlie  Blackfeet,  wlio  sur}.i'ise  them  in  the  night 
and  carry  oil'  their  horses,  that  they  are  forced 
to  return  liiiht-handed,  and  then  thev  have  noth- 
ing  to  eat  but  roots,  all  the  winter. 

These  Indians  are  passionately  fond  of  horse- 
races :  by  the  bets  they  make  on  these  occasions 
they  sometimes  lose  all  that  they  possess.  The 
women  ride,  as  well  as  the  men.  Fc  r  a  -  ridle 
they  use  a  cord  (jf  horse-hair,  which  they  ntiich 
round  the  animal's  mouth  ;  with  that  he  is  easily 
checked,  and  by  laying  tlie  hand  on  his  neck,  is 
made  to  wheel  to  this  side  or  that.  The  saddle 
is  a  cushion  of  stuffed  deer-skin,  verv  suitalde  for 
tlic  i)urpose  to  which  it  is  destined,  rarely  hurting 
the  horse,  and  not  fatiguing  tin   rider  so  mucU 


1^ 


;■.*;>■ 


270 


fiianchere's  voyage. 


V^j'^i 


• 

1 

'^ 

1 

as  our  European  saddles.  The  stirrups  are 
pieces  of  liard  "wood,  ingeniously  wrought,  and  of 
the  same  shape  as  those  which  are  used  in  civili- 
zed countries.  They  are  covered  with  a  piece 
of  deer-skin,  which  is  sewed  on  wet,  and  in  dry- 
ing stiffens  and  becomes  hard  and  lirni.  The 
saddles  for  women  differ  in  form,  being  furnished 
with  the  antlers  of  a  deer,  so  as  to  rcsemljle  the 
high  pommelled  saddle  of  the  Mexican  ladies. 

Tliey  procure  their  horses  from  tlie  herds  of 
these  animals  which  are  found  in  a  wild  state  in 
the  country  extending  between  the  northern  lat- 
itudes and  tiic  gulf  of  Mexico,  and  which  some- 
times count  a  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred  in  a 
troop.  These  hoi*ses  come  from  New  Mexico, 
and  arc  of  Spanish  race.  We  even  saw  some 
which  had  l)cen  marked  with  a  hot  iron  by  S])an- 
iards.  Some  of  our  men,  who  had  been  at  tlic 
soiUh,  told  me  that  they  had  seen  among  the  In- 
dians, bridles,  tlio  bits  of  which  were  of  silver. 
The  form  of  the  saddles  used  by  the  females, 
proves  that  they  have  taken  tlieir  pattern  from 
the  Spanish  ones  destined  for  the  same  use.     One 


TAK1N'(^    WllJt    HOUSES. 


liTl 


are 
id  of 
•ivili- 
plcco 

1  dvy- 

Tlie 
uislicd 

Acs. 

ivds  of 

state  ill 

cm  lat- 

jU  some- 
cd  iu  a 
Mcx-ico, 

aw  some 
y  i^pan- 
n  at  the 
the  Tn- 
of  silver, 
females, 
torn  fi'oui 
use.     Olio 


of  the  partners  of  llu^  X.  W.  Company  (Mr. 
M'Tuvisb)  assured  ui  tliut  lie  had  seen  among 
the  Spokans^^au  ohl  woman  who  told  liim  that 
she  had  seen  men  ploughing  the  earth  ;  she  told 
him  that  she  had  also  seen  churches,  which  she 
made  him  understand  by  imitating  the  sound  of  a 
bell  and  the  action  of  pulling  a  bell-rope ;  and 
further  to  confirm  Ium-  account,  nmde  the  sign  of 
the  cross.  Tiiat  gentleman  concludetl  tliat  she 
had  l)een  made  j)risoner  and  sold  to  the  Sj»aniards 
on  the  Del  Norte ;  l)ut  1  think  it  more  probable 
it  was  nearer,  in  North  Calilni-nia,  at  the  mission 
of  San  Carlos  or  Sm-  Franciseo. 

As  the  manner  of  taking  wild  horses  should 
not  be  generally  known  to  my  readers,  I  will  re- 
late it  here  in  few  words.  The  Indian  who  wish- 
es to  capture  some  horses,  mounts  one  of  his 
fleetest  coursers,  being  armed  with  a  long  cord 
of  horsehair,  one  end  of  which  is  attached  to  his 
saddle,  and  the  other  is  a  ru*  ning  noose.  Ar- 
rived at  the  herd,  he  dashes  into  the  midst  of  it, 
and  dinging  his  cord,  or  fasso,  passes  it  dexter- 
ously over  the  head  of  the  animal  he  selects ; 


272 


FIlANCnKIlE  S    VOYAGi:. 


then  wlict'liu<^  his  courser,  draws  the  cord  after 
hiin  ;  the  wikl  horse,  i'niding  itself  stran«>liug, 
makes  litth;  resistance  ;  tlie  Indian ttlien  ai)i)roaeli- 
cs,  ties  his  fore  and  hind  legs  together,  and 
leaves  him  till  he  has  taken  in  this  manner  as 
many  as  he  can.  lie  then  drives  them  home 
before  him,  and  breaks  them  in  at  leisure. 


REXCON'TRK. 


273 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Mt'ctinp  with  tlic  Widdw  (if  u  lIimtiT. —  llcr  Narrative. —  Rcflco 
tioiis  ot'tlio  AutliDr. — i'rii'st's  KMpiil. — Hivcr  OUoiuikaii, — Krttio 
Full!*. —  Piiic'  M(i89. —  Sciurity  of  Fnod.— Rivers,  L;iki>s,  &c.^ 
Accitlont. —  A  Roncoiitro. —  First  View  of  the  Rueky  Mottn- 
taiiis. 

On  tlio  ITtli,  the  fatigue  I  liad  ex[)crieiice(l  tlie 
day  l)cfore,  on  horseback,  obliged  me  to  re-em- 
bark in  my  canoe.  About  eiglit  o'clock,  we 
passed  a  little  river  flowing  from  the  X.  W.  Wo 
perceived,  soon  after,  three  canoes,  the  persons 
in  which  were  struggling  with  their  paddles 
to  overtake  us.  As  we  were  still  pursuing  our 
way,  we  heard  a  child's  voice  cry  out  in  French 
— "  arretez  done,  arrctez  dotic^' — (stop !  stop  !). 
We  put  ashore,  and  the  canoes  having  joined  us, 
we  perceived  in  one  of  llieni  tlie  wife  and  children 
of  a  man  named  Pierre  Dorian.,  a  liunter,  who 

had  been  sent  on  with  a  party  of  eight,  under 

12* 


I 


I 

Wi 

i 

,'TS'ji' 

f    '%  i*^ 

■  -..f^--; 

',.,.-;•  ■    • 

)     'i'-'r 

'  ^Un, 

^^•:>u 

''■"■if 

■(;,..■»;•>. 

r^-r 

■ -f. 

■\E  - 

■W'   :. 

\ 


274 


rilANCIIKUKS   VOYAr.K. 


tlio  coiuinaiul  of  Mr.  J.  R(.»o<1,  iinioii«::  llic  Sna/rr.s'^ 
to  join  thoro  tlio  liuntcrs  left  l)y  >f('>srs.  Jlmit 
and  Crooks,  near  Fort  IIcMiiy,  and  to  secure 
horses  and  ])rovisious  I'or  our  journey.  Tliis 
woninn  informed  us,  to  our  no  small  di^Uiry,  of 
the  tragical  fate  of  all  tliose  who  comjjoscd  that 
party.  Slic  told  us  that  in  the  month  of  January, 
the  hunters  being  dispersed  here  and  there, 
setting  tlieir  traps  for  the  heaver,  Jacob  Heguer, 
Cilles  Leclerc,  and  Pierre  Doi'ion,  her  husl)and, 
had  Iteeu  attacked  by  the  natives.  Leclerc,  hav- 
ing been  mortally  wounded,  reached  her  tent  or 
hut,  where  he  expired  in  a  few  minutes,  after 
having  announced  to  her  that  her  husl>and  had 
been  killed.  Slic  iinmediatelv  took  two  horses 
that  were  near  the  lodge,  mounted  her  two  boys 
upon  them,  and  fled  in  all  haste  to  the  wintering 
house  of  Mr.  Reed,  which  was  about  live  days' 
march  from  the  spot  where  her  husband  fell.  Her 
horror  and  disappointment  were  extreme,  when 
phe  found  the  house — a  log  cabin  —  deserted, 
and  on  drawing  nearer,  was  soon  convinced,  by 
the  traces  of  blood,  that  Mr.  Reed  also  had  been 


WOMAN  S   STOKY. 


276 


hint 
cure 
This 
jr,  of 
that 
imry, 
Lb  ere, 
iguer, 

3,  liav- 
mt  or 
after 
d  had 
horses 
0  boys 
iitcring 
days' 
1.   Her 
c,  when 
cserted, 
ccd,  by 
ad  been 


c 


1 


murdered.  No  time  was  to  be  lost  in  laiiuMita- 
tions,  and  ,<h»^  luul  inmnMliMtt'ly  (led  toward  t!ic 
mouiilain.s  south  of  tlie  Wdllavuilht^  wlioi-c,  bointr 
impeded  by  tlio  dcplli  oftlu*  snow,  she  was  Ibrced 
tc  winter,  liaving  kilh'd  l>otli  \\w  horso.s  to  sub- 
sist liersclf  and  lier  ohil(h'on.  Ibit  at  bist,  rind- 
ing herself  out  of  provisions,  and  tlie  snow  l)c- 
g'innint";  to  melt,  slie  had  crossed  the  niounta  iis 
with  her  boys,  hojiinu'  to  lind  some  more  liuuianc 
Indians,  who  would  let  her  live  amonii'  them  till 
the  boats  from  the  Ibrt  below  should  be  ascend- 
ing the  river  in  the  Sj)rin!r,  and  so  reached  the 
banks  of  tlie  Cobnnhia,  bv  the  AValhiwalla. 
Here,  indeed,  tlie  natives  had  received  her  with 
much  hospitality,  anrl  it  was  tlie  Indians  of  Wal- 
lawalla  who  brought  her  to  us.  We  made  them 
some  presents  to  repay  their  care  and  jiains,  and 
they  returned  well  satisfied. 

The  ])orsons  who  lost  their  lives  in  this  unfor- 
tunate win-ering  party,  were  Mr.  .F(jhn  Reed, 
(clerk),  Jacob  Regner,  John  iriibbough,  Piei-ro 
Dorion  (hunters),  Cilles  Leclerc, Francois  Landry, 
J.   B.  Turcottc,  iVjidrc  la  (Jhapelh?   and  Pierre 


1 

I 


mi 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


m  III25 


•MUu 

11= 

U    IIIIII.6 


V2 


^ 


/a 


^c^ 


'W 


^^/   M^'^i    v>' 


>/ 


y 


&>. 


/A 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


\ 


'^§^ 


^\^ 


m 


^ 


o 


o^ 


ri' 


276 


FRANCIIERE  S   YOYACE. 


■!t'^' 


Dc  Lauuay,  (vojjagjeiirs^.*  Wo  had  no  doubt 
that  this  massacre  was  an  act  of  vengeance,  on 
the  part  of  the  natives,  in  retaliation  for  tlie  death 
of  one  of  tlieir  people,  whom  Mr.  John  Clark 
had  hanged  for  theft  the  spring  before.  This 
fact,  the  massacre  on  tlie  Tonquin,  the  nnhajipy 
end  of  Captain  Cook,  and  many  other  similar 
examples,  prove  how  carefully  the  Europeans, 
who  have  relations  with  a  barbarons  people, 
should  abstain  from  acting  in  regard  to  them  on 
the  footing  of  too  marked  an  ineqnality,  and 
especially  from  punishing  their  oiTences  according 
to  usages  and  codes,  in  which  there  is  too  often 
an  enormous  disproportion  l)etween  the  crime 
and  the  punishment.  If  these  pretended  exem- 
plary punishments  seem  to  have  a  good  eftect  at 
first  sight,  they  almost  always  produce  terrible 
consequences  in  the  sequel. 

On  the  18th,  we  passed   Priest's  Rapid,   so 
named  by  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  people,  who  saw  at 

*  TmrottR  (liod  of  King's  Evil.  Do  Lauiiay  was  a  hiilf-l)ifrd, 
of  violent  tomppr,  who  had  taken  an  Indian  woman  to  live  witli 
him  ;  he  left  Mr.  Reed  in  the  autumn,  and  was  never  heard  of 
again. 


SXOWY   SL'MMIT.S. 


277 


douVit 
ucc,  on 
vc  death 
a  Clark 
3.     This 
unhappy 
•   siuiihir 
iropeans, 
^   people, 
,  them  on 
xllty,  and 
according 

too  often 
Ithe  crime 
Ided  cxem- 

\  effect  at 

-,e  terrible 

\Rapid,   so 
rho  saw  at 

L  a  hiilf-livord, 
liui  to  live  witli 
iicver  heard  of 


this  Spot,  in  1811,  as  they  were  ascending  the 
river,  a  number  of  savages,  one  of  whom  was 
performing  on  the  rest  certain  aspersions  and 
other  ceremonies,  which  had  tlie  air  of  being 
coarse  imitations  of  the  Catholic  worship.  For 
our  part,  we  met  hero  some  Indians  of  wJiom  wc 
bouglit  two  liorses.  The  banks  of  tlie  river  at 
this  place  are  tolerably  high,  ])ut  tlie  country 
back  of  tliem  is  flat  and   uninteresting. 

On  the  20th,  we  arrived  at  a  jdace  wliere  the 
bed  of  the  river  is  extremely  contracted,  and 
where  wc  were  ol)liged  to  make  a  portage. 
Messrs.  J.  Stuart  and  Clarke  left  us  here,  to 
proceed  on  horseback  to  the  Spokan  trading 
house,  to  procure  there  the  provisions  which 
would  be  necessary  for  us,  in  order  to  push  on  to 
the  mountains. 

On  the  21st,  we  lightened  of  their  cargoes, 
three  canoes,  in  which  those  who  were  to  cross 
the  continent  embarked,  to  get  on  with  greater 
speed.  We  passed  several  rapids,  and  began  to 
see  mountains  covered  with  snow. 

On  the  22d,  we  began  to  see  some  pines  on 


278 


FllAXCIIEnK's   VOYAGE. 


the  ridn-o  of  tlic  nciu]il)oi'inn:  hills  ;  and  at  cvenin2: 
\vc  eiicami)e(l  inidor  //vr.s-,  a  thing  which  had  not 
hapi)Ciicd  to  us  suicc  the  12tli. 

On  the  23d,  toward  0,  A.  ]\[.,  we  reached  the 
trading  post  cstal)lished  by  D.  Stuart,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Okrnakan.  The  sjjot  ap- 
peared to  us  charming',  in  comparison  with  the 
country  tlirouirh  which  we  had  iournevcd  for 
twelve  days  past :  the  two  rivers  here  meeting, 
ana  the  immense  prairies  covered  with  a  hue 
verdure,  strike  agreeal)ly  the  eye  of  the  observer; 
but  there  is  not  a  tree  or  a  shrub  to  diversify  tho 
scene,  and  render  it  a  little  less  naked  and  less 
monotonous.  We  found  here  Messrs.  J.  M'Gilli- 
vray  and  Ross,  and  Mr.  0.  de  Montigny,  who  had 
taken  service  with  the  X.  W.  Company,  and  who 
charged  me  with  a  letter  for  his  brother. 

Toward  midday  we  re-embarked,  to  continue 
our  journey.  After  having  passed  several  dan- 
gerous rapids  without  accident,  always  through 
a  country  broken  by  shelving  rocks,  diversified 
with  hills  and  verdant  prairies,  wc  arrived,  on 
the  29th,  at  the  portage  of  the  Chandler cs  or 


KETTLE   FALLS. 


270 


renin  g 
ad  not 

cd  tho 

at   the 

pot  n])- 

,'itli  the 

ycd   for 

meeting, 

[i  a   iino 

>])scrvcr ; 

irsify  tlio 

and  less 
;M'Gilli- 
who  had 
and  who 

• 

continue 
:cral  dan- 
Is  through 
lliversified 
Irrivcd,  on 

udieres  or 


Ketile  falls.  This  is  a  fall  where  the  water 
preeipitaterf  ilsolf  over  an  iniineuse  roek  of  white 
marble,  veiued  with  red  and  green,  that  traverses 
the  bed  of  the  river  from  X.  W.  to  8.  E.  We 
effected  the  portage  immediately,  and  encamped 
on  the  edge  of  a  charming  jirairie. 

We  found  at  this  })lace  some  Indians  who  had 
been  fasting,  they  assured  us,  for  several  days. 
They  ai)peared,  in  fact,  reduced  to  the  most  })iti- 
able  state,  having  nothing  left  but  skin  and  bones, 
and  scarcely  able  to  drag  themselves  along,  so 
that  not  without  difficidty  could  they  even  reach 
the  margin  of  the  river,  to  get  a  little  water  to 
wet  their  parched  lips.     It  is  a  thing  that  often 
ha[)pens  to  these  poor  })eople,  when  their  cliaso 
has  not  been  productive  ;  their  principal  nourish- 
ment consisthig,  in  that  case,  of  the  i»ine  moss, 
which  they  boil  till  it  is  reduced  to  a  sort  of  glue 
or  black  paste,  of  a  sufQeient  consistence  to  take 
the  form  of  biscuit.     I  had  tlie  curiosity  to  taste 
this  l)read,  and  I  thought  I  had  got  in  my  mouth 
a  l)it  of  soap.     Yet  some  of  our  ])eople,  who  had 
been  reduced  to  cat  this  glue,  assured  me  that 


280 


frantiiere's  voyage. 


/jsjuj 


wliGii  frcsli  iiiatlc  it  liad  a  very  good  taste,  sea- 
soned witli  meat.*  We  partly  relieved  these 
wretclied  natives  from  our  scanty  store. 

On  the  30th,  while  we  were  yet  encamped  at 
Kettle  falls,  Messrs.  J.  Stuart  and  Clarke  arrived 
from  the  post  at  Spokan.  The  last  was  mounted 
on  the  fmest-proportioned  gray  charger,  full  seven- 
teen hands  high,  that  I  had  seen  in  these  parts :  Mr. 
Stuart  had  got  a  fall  from  his,  in  trying  to  urge 
him,  and  had  hurt  himself  severely.  These  gen- 
tlemen not  having  brought  us  the  provisions  we 
expected,  because  the  hunters  who  had  been  sent 
for  that  purpose  among  the  Flatheads,  had  not 
been  able  to  procure  any,  it  was  resolved  to  di- 
vide our  party,  and  that  Messrs.  M'^ Donald,  J. 
Stuart,  and  M'Kenzie  should  go  forward  to  the 
post  situated  east  of  the  mountains,  in  order  to 
send  us  thence  horses  and  supplies.  These  gen- 
tlemen quitted  us  on  the  1st  of  May.     After  their 

*  The  process  of  boiling  employed  by  the  Indians  in  this  case, 
extracts  from  tho  moss  its  golatinc,  which  serves  to  supply  tlio 
waste  of  those  tissues  into  which  that  principle  enters;  but  as  tlio 
moss  contains  little  or  none  of  the  proximates  which  constitute 
the  bulk  of  the  living  solids  and  fluicis,  it  will  not,  of  course,  by 
itself,  support  life  or  strength. —  En. 


FORESTS   APPKAn. 


281 


iste,  sca- 
cd   these 

;ampcd  at 
kc  arrived 
s  mounted 
fidl  neveu- 
parts:  Mr. 
Lug  to  urge 
These  gen- 
ovisions  we 
,d  been  sent 
ds,  had  not 
dved  to  di- 
3onald,  J. 
ward  to  the 
in  order  to 
These  gen- 
After  their 

iaiis  in  lt»s  ciise, 

.>s  to  surpiy  t^"^ 

nlers  ;  but  as  the 
which  constitute 
ot,  of  course,  by 


departure  we  killod  two  horses  and  dried  the 
meat ;  whieli  oeeu}»ied  us  tlie  rest  of  tluit  day  and 
all  the  next.  In  tlic  evening  of  the  2d,  ^Ir.  A. 
Stuart  arrived  at  our  eamp.  He  had  recovered 
from  his  wounds  (received  in  the  conflict  with 
the  natives,  before  related),  and  was  on  his  way 
to  his  old  wintering  place  on  Slai'c  lake,  to  fetch 
his  family  to  the  Columbia. 

We  resumed  our  route  on  the  morning  of  tlie 
3d  of  May,  and  went  to  encamp  that  evening  at 
the  upper-end  of  a  rapid,  where  we  began  to 
descry  mountains  covered  with  forests,  and  where 
the  banks  of  the  river  themselves  were  low  and 
thinly  timbered. 

On  the  4th,  after  having  passed  several  consid- 
erable rapids,  we  reached  the  confluence  of  Flal- 
head  river.  This  stream  comes  from  the  S.  E., 
and  falls  into  the  Columbia  in  the  form  of  a  cas- 
cade: it  may  be  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide  at  its  junction. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th,  we  arrived  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Coutonais  river.  This  stream 
also  flows  from  the  south,  and  has  nearly  the  same 


282 


FKAXrHKRH  ^^   VOYACIO. 


1)'  ! 


m 


widtli  as  tlio  Flathc(((l.  Sliortly  after  passing 
it,  wc  cnt(3ro(l  a  lake  or  cnlargciucut  of  tlie  river, 
wiiicli  we  crof^scd  to  eiicani])  at  its  ii])])er  extrem- 
ity. This  lake  may  Ite  thirty  or  forty  miles,  and 
about  four  wide  at  its  Ijroadest  i)art :  it  is  sur- 
rounded by  lofty  hills,  which  fo]'  the  most  part 
have  their  base  at  the  water's  edge,  and  rise  by 
gradual  and  hnely-wooded  terraces,  offering  a 
suOiciently  ])retty  view. 

On  tlie  Gtli,  after  we  had  run  through  a  nar- 
row strait  or  channel  some  fifteen  miles  long,  wo 
entered  another  lake,  of  less  extent  than  the  for- 
mer but  equally  picturesque.  When  we  were 
ncarlv  in  the  middle  of  it,  an  accident  occurred 
which,  if  not  very  disastrous,  was  sufficiently 
singular.  One  of  the  men,  wlio  had  been  on  the 
sick-list  for  several  days,  requested  to  l)e  landed 
for  an  instant.  Xot  being  more  than  a  mile 
from  the  shore,  we  acceded  to  his  request,  and 
made  accordingly  for  a  projecting  head-land ; 
but  when  we  w^ere  about  three  linndrcd  or  four 
hundred  yards  from  the  point,  the  canoe  struck 
with  force  against  the  trunk  of  a  tree  which  was 


AN   ACCIDENT. 


3  river, 
extrem- 
es, and 

is  sur- 
)st  part 

rise  by 
ering    a 

1  a  nar- 
long,  wo 
1  tlic  for- 
wc  were 
occurred 
ifiiciently 
en  on  tlie 
10  landed 
n  a  milo 
uest,  and 
ead-land ; 
d  or  four 
00  struck 
liicli  was 


planted  in  tlic  hottoin  oi'  the  lake,  and  the  ex- 
tremity of  wliicli  l)arely  reached  the  surface  of 
the  Avater/  It  needed  no  more  to  break  a  hole 
in  so  frail  a  A'cssel ;  the  canoo  was  pi<M'ccd 
through  the  l)ottoiu  and  fdhnl  in  a  trice ;  and 
despite  all  our  elTorts  we  could  not  get  oft'  tlio 
tree,  wliich  liad  penetrated  two  or  three  feet 
within  lier ;  perliaps  that  was  our  good  fortune, 
for  the  o])ening  was  at  least  a  yard  long.  One 
of  tlic  men,  avIio  was  an  export  swiuinicr,  strii)pcd, 
and  was  al)out  to  go  aslioro  witli  an  axe  lashed 
to  his  back,  to  make  a  raft  for  us,  wlien  the  otli- 
cr  canoo,  which  had  been  proceeding  u})  tlie  lake, 
and  was  a  mile  ahead,  perceived  our  signals  of 
distress,  and  came  to  our  succor.  Thev  carried 
US  to  land,  where  it  was  necessary  to  encamp 
forthwith,  as  wxU  to  dry  ourselves  as  to  mend 
the  canoo. 

On  the  7th,  Mr.  A.  Stuart,  whom  wo  had  loft 
behind  at  Kettle  falls,  came  up  with  us,  and  wo 
pursued  our  route  in  company.     Toward  evening 

*  A  snag  of  com-so,  of  tho  nature  of  wliioli  the  young  Canadian 
seems  to  have  been  ignorant. 


nr:, 


284 


FUAXCIIKRi:  S   VOYACE. 


we  met  nutivcs,  camped  on  the  l)aiik  of  tlie  river : 
they  gave  us  a  letter  from  wliieli  "we  learned  tliat 
J\Ir.  M'Donald  and  liis  party  had  passed  there  on 
the  4th.  Tlie  women  at  tins  camp  were  l)usy 
Sj/inniiig  the  coarse  wool  of  tlie  mountain  sheej) : 
they  had  blankets  or  numtles,  woven  or  ])hitted  of 
the  same  material,  with  a  heavy  fringe  all  round  : 
I  would  gladly  have  purchased  one  of  these,  but 
as  we  were  to  carry  all  our  baggage  on  our  backs 
across  the  mountains,  was  forced  to  relinciuish 
the  idea.  Having  bought  of  these  savages  some 
pieces  of  dried  venison,  we  pursued  our  journey. 
The  country  began  to  be  ascending ;  the  stream 
was  very  rapid ;  and  we  made  that  day  little 
progress. 

On  the  8th  wc  began  to  sec  snow  on  the  shoals 
or  sand-banks  of  the  river :  the  atmosphere  grew 
very  cold.  The  banks  on  either  side  presented 
only  high  hills  covered  to  the  top  with  impenetra- 
ble forests.  While  the  canoes  were  working  up 
a  considerable  rapid,  I  climbed  the  hills  with  Mr. 
M'Gillis,  and  we  walked  on,  following  the  course 
of  the  river,  some  five  or  six  miles.     The  snow 


THE   MOUNTAIN'S   IX   SlfillT. 


285 


lie  river : 
•ned  tUiit 
there  on 
-ere  busy 
ill  slieop : 
platted  of 
.ill  round : 
these,  I  tut 
our  backs 
reVuKtuish 
rages  some 
ur  journey, 
tlic  stream 
,  day  little 


was  very  deep  in  tlie  ravines  or  narrow  o-orjrog 
whieli  are  Ibund  b(!t\veen  the  l)ases  of  the  liills. 
The  most  common  trees  are  tlie  Norway  pine  and 
the  cedar :  the  last  is  liere,  as  on  the  l)orders  of 
tlie  sea,  of  a  prodij^'ious  si/.e. 

On  tlie  0th  and  10th,  as  we  advanced  but  slow- 
ly, the  country  presented  the  same  aspect  as  on 
the  8th.  Toward  evening  of  the  lOtli,  we  per- 
ceived a-head  of  us  a  chain  of  hl^'h  mountains 
entirely  covered  with  snow.  The  Ijcd  of  the  riv- 
er was  hardly  more  than  sixty  yards  wide,  and 
was  filled  with  dry  banks  composed  of  coarse 
gravel  and  small  pe1jl)lc. 


1 


the  shoals 
:>lierc  grew 
presented 
impenetra- 
working  up 
ills  with  Mr. 
jr  tlie  course 
The  snow 


28G 


FUANCUKUE S   VOYAGE. 


Hi: 


*'Jhfn.  't  ■] 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Course  nf  ilio  Columbia  River. —  Cuiioo  Ilivor. —  Foot-mfirch  to- 
ward the  llocky  MouiUuiiis. —  rassago  of  the  Mouiituiiis. 

On  tliG  lltli,  that  is  to  say,  one  inoiitli,  day 
for  day,  after  our  departure  from  the  falls,  -wo 
quitted  the  Columbia,  to  enter  a  little  stream  to 
wliicli  Mr.  Thompson  had  given,  in  1811,  the 
name  of  Canoe  river,  from  the  lixct  that  it  was 
on  this  fork  that  lie  constructed  the  canoes  which 
carried  liini  to  i\\Q  Pacific. 

The  Colunil)ia,  whicli  in  the  portion  above  the 
falls  (not  taking  into  consideration  some  local 
sinuosities)  comes  from  the  N.  N.  E.,  takes  a 
bend  here  so  that  \\\q  stream  appears  to  flow  from 
the  S.  E.*    Some  boatmen,  and  particularly  Mr. 

*  Mr.  Franchcre  uniformly  mentions  the  direction  from  which 
a  stream  appears  to  flow,  not  that  toward  wliich  it  runs;  a  natur- 
al method  on  the  part  of  one  who  was  ascending  the  current. 


COUUSE   OF  TIIK   COLUMUrA. 


287 


ot,-mnrc^i  to- 

lonth,  day 

;  falls,  wo 

stream  to 

1811,  tlio 

tliat  it  was 

uocs  wliicli 

above  the 
some  local 

,  takes  a 
to  flow  from 
Lcularly  ^Ii'- 

lion  from  wl>ich 
It  inns ;  a  nuUu- 


Tlogis  Bnip;nicr,  wlio  had  ascended  that  river  to 
its  source,  inCornied  me  that  it  came  out  of  two 
^^iiiiill  hikes,  not  far  from  tiio  chain  of  the  Koci^y 
[Mountains,  wliicii,  at  tliat  place,  divorpres  consid- 
erahly  to  the  cast.     According  to  Arrowsmith's 
mai»,  tlie  course  of  tli(3  Tdcoulrhe  Tcss<\  from  its 
moutli  in  tlic  Pacilic  Ocean,  to  its  source  in  the 
Rocky  mountains,  is  ahout  twelve  hundred  Kn- 
glisli  miles,  or  four  hundred   Freneli  leagues  of 
twc'ity-fivc  to  a  degree ;  tlnit  is  to  say,  Ironi  two 
hundred  and  forty  to  two  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  from  Avcst  to  east,  from  its  mouth  to  the 
first  falls :    seven  hundred  and  fifty  miles  nearly 
from  S.  8.  AV.  to  N.  X.  E.,  from  the  first  ra])ids 
to  the  bend  at  the  confluence  of  Canoe  river ;  and 
one  hundred  and  flfty  or  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  from  that  confluence  to  its  source.      Wo 
were  not  provided  with  the  necessary  instruments 
to  determine  the  latitude,  and  still  less  the  lon- 
gitude, of  our  different  stations ;  ])ut  it  took  us 
four  or  five  days  to  go  np  from  the  factory  at  As- 
toria to  the  falls,  and  we  conld  not  have  mado 
less  than  sixty  miles  a  day :  and,  as  1  have  just 


;   'i.r 


288 


FRAXCHERE  S   YOYAfiE. 


-  ',      -  /-,  -;■  ■ 


%. 


rcmarlvGcl,  wc  occupied  an  entire  month  in  getting 
froni  the  fails  to  Canoe  river :  deducting  four 
or  five  days,  on  wliicli  avc  did  not  travel,  there 
remain  twenty-iive  days  march ;  and  it  is  not 
possible  that  we  made  less  tlian  thirty  miles  a 
day,  one  day  with  another. 

Vio  ascended  Canoe  river  to  the  point  where 
it  ceases  to  be  navigable,  and  encamped  in  the 
same  place  where  Mr.  Thompson  wintered  in 
1810-'ll.  We  proceeded  immediately  to  secure 
our  canoes,  and  to  divide  the  baggage  among  the 
men,  giving  each  fifty  pounds  to  carry,  including 
his  provisions.  A  sack  of  pcmican,  or  pounded 
meat,  which  we  fotmd  in  a  cache,  where  it  had 
been  left  for  us,  was  a  great  acquisition,  as  our 
supplies  were  nearly  exhausted. 

On  the  12th  we  begai.  our  foot  march  to  the 
mountains,  being  twenty-four  in  number,  rank 
and  file.  Mr.  A.  Stuart  remained  at  the  portage 
to  bestow  in  a  place  of  safety  the  effects  Avhich 
we  could  not  carry,  such  as  boxes,  kegs,  camp- 
kettles,  <fcc.  We  traversed  first  some  swamps, 
next  a  dense  bit  of  forest,  and  then  we  found 


A   SEVERE   LOSS. 


280 


getting 
ng  four 
cl,  tlicrc 
t  is  not 
r  miles  a 

int  where 
3d  in  the 
utcred  in 
■  to  secure 
among  the 
,  including 
X  pounded 
ere  it  had 
ion,  as  our 

irch  to  the 
nber,  rank 
the  portage 
ccts  which 
icgs,  camp- 
lue  swamps, 
n  we  found 


ourselves  marchinn  up  tlic  gravelly  banks  of  llio 
little  Canoe  river.  Faliu'ue  o])!!^'!!  us  to  eauip 
early. 

On  the  18th  we  pursued  our  journey,  and  en- 
tered into  the  valleys  between  tlie  mountains, 
whore  there  lay  not  less  than  lour  or  five  feet  of 
snow.  We  were  obliged  to  bnnl  tlie  river  ten  or 
a  dozen  times  in  the  eourst^  of  the  day.  sonu^times 
with  the  water  up  to  our  necks.  These  frequent 
fordings  were  rendered  necessary  by  abrupt  and 
steep  rocks  or  blnlls,  wliieli  it  was  impossiide  to 
get  over  without  plunging  into  tlie  wood  fur  a 
ii'reat  distance.  The  stream  l)einu-  \ovy  swift, 
and  rushinu'  over  a  bed  of  stones,  one  of  the  men 
fell  and  lost  a  sack  containing  our  last  ])iece  of 
salt  pork,  which  we  were  preserving  as  a  most 
precious  treasure.  TIk;  circunistauijes  in  wliieli 
we  found  ourselves  made  us  regard  this  as  a  most 
unfortunate  accident.  We  encamped  that  niglit 
at  the  foot  of  a  steep  mountain,  and  sent  on  ^\v. 
Fillet  and  the  guide,  ^I-Kay,  to  hasten  a  supply 
of  provisions  to  meet  us. 

On  the  morning  of  the  l-lth  wc  began  to  climb 

13 


I  ■:•    .'■  I 


290 


FRAXCIIEllE  S    VOYAGE. 


the  mountain  which  we  had  before  us.  We  were 
obliged  to  stop  every  moment,  to  take  breath,  so 
stiff  was  the  ascent.  Happily  it  had  frozen  hard 
the  night  before,  and  the  crust  of  the  snow  was 
sufficient  to  bear  us.  After  two  or  three  hours 
of  incrcdil)le  exertions  and  fatigues,  we  arrived 
at  the  plateau  or  summit,  and  followed  the  foot- 
prints of  those  who  had  preceded  us.  This 
mountain  is  placed  between  two  others  a  great 
deal  more  elevated,  compaied  with  which  it  is 
but  a  hill,  and  of  which,  indeed,  it  is  only,  as  it 
were,  the  valley.  Our  march  soon  became  fa- 
tiguing, on  account  of  the  depth  of  the  snow, 
which,  softened  by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  could  no 
longer  bear  us  as  in  the  morning.  We  were 
obliged  to  follow  exactly  the  traces  of  those  who 
had  preceded  us,  and  to  plunge  our  legs  up  to  the 
knees  in  the  holes  they  had  made,  so  that  it  was 
as  if  we  had  put  on  and  taken  off,  at  every  step, 
a  very  large  pair  of  boots.  At  last  we  arrived 
at  a  good  hard  bottom,  and  a  clear  space,  which 
our  guide  said  was  a  little  lake  frozen  over,  and 
here  we  stopped  for  the  night.     This  lake,  or 


:m 


SCENERY. 


201 


'e  were 
3atli,  so 
en  hard 
LOW  was 
e  hours 
arrived 
the  foot- 
3.      This 
1  a  great 
ich  it  is 
nly,  as  it 
ccame  fa- 
the  snow, 
,  could  no 
■\Ve  were 
those  who 
s  up  to  the 
:hat  it  was 
every  step, 
5\^e  arrived 
)ace,  which 
n  over,  and 
ii^  lake,  or 


rather  tlicse  hikes  (for  there  are  two)  are  situated 
in  the  midst  of  the  valley  or  cup  of  the  mountains. 
On  either  side  were  immense  glaciers,  or  ice-bound 
rocks,  on  which  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  re- 
flected the  most  l)eautiful  prismatic  colors.  One 
of  these  icy  peaks  was  like  a  fortress  of  rock  ;  it 
rose  perpendicularly  some  fifteen  or  ciglitecn 
hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lakes,  and 
had  the  summit  covered  with  ice.  Mr.  J.  Henry, 
who  first  discovered  the  pass,  gave  this  extraor- 
dinary rock  the  name  of  M-  CUlivraifa  Eork,  in 
honor  of  one  of  the  partners  of  the  X.  W.  Com- 
pany. Tlie  lakes  themselves  are  not  much  over' 
three  or  four  hundred  yards  in  circuit,  and  not 
over  two  hundrci  yards  apart.  Canoe  river, 
which,  as  we  have  already  seen,  flows  to  the  west, 
and  falls  into  the  Columbia,  takes  its  rise  in  one 
of  them ;  while  the  other  gives  l)irth  to  one  of  tlic 
branches  of  the  Athabasca,  which  runs  first  east- 
ward, then  northward,  and  wliich,  after  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Unjig^hah,  north  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Mountains,  takes  the  nnuK^  of  *'^7^;/v;  river,  as  far 
the  lake  of  that  name,  and  afterward  that  of 


iWr 


^1 

.,  II 


292 


FRANCIIERE  S  VOYAGE. 


".I 


I 


*;•¥ 


'■-!  -. 


* 


■m 


M'Kenzie  river,  till  it  empties  into,  or  is  lost  in, 
the  Frozen  oeean.  Iluving  cut  a  large  })ilc  of 
wood,  and  having,  Ijy  tedious  labor  for  nearly  an 
hour,  got  through  the  iee  to  the  clear  water  of 
the  lake  on  which  we  were  encamped,  we  supped 
frugally  on  pounded  maize,  arranged  our  bivouac, 
and  passed  a  pretty  good  night,  though  it  Avas 
l)itterly  cold.  The  most  connnon  wood  of  the 
locality  was  cedar  and  stunted  pine.  The  heat 
of  our  lire  made  the  snow  melt,  and  by  morning 
the  embers  had  reached  the  solid  ice :  the  depth 
from  the  snow  surface  was  about  five  feet. 
,  On  the  loth,  we  continued  our  route,  and  soon 
began  to  descend  the  mountain.  At  the  end  of 
three  hours,  we  reached  the  banks  of  a  stream — 
the  outlet  of  the  second  lake  above  mentioned — 
here  and  there  frozen  over,  and  then  again  tum- 
bling down  over  rock  and  pebbly  bottom  in  a 
thousand  fantastic  gambols ;  and  very  soon  we 
had  to  ford  it.  After  a  tiresome  march,  by  an 
extremely  difficult  path  in  the  midst  of  woods, 
we  encamped  in  the  evening  under  some  cypres- 
ses.    I  had  hit  my  right  knee  against  the  branch 


V 


I 


ill 


BUFFALO  TRACKS. 


2oa 


t  in, 
Icof 
ly  an 
cr  of 
ippcd 
rouac, 
,t  was 
of  tlic 
.0  licat 
lorning 
0  depth 

• 

nd  soon 
end  of 
ream- — 
ioned — - 
ain  tmn- 
om  in  a 
soon  wo 
li,  by  an 
f  woods, 
le  cypres- 
le  brancli 


of  a  fallen  tree  on  the  first  day  of  our  mareli,  and 
now  began  to  suffer  aeutoly  with  it.  It  was  ini- 
possilde,  however,  to  fliueli,  as  I  must  Iceep  up 
with  the  party  or  be  left  to  porisli. 

On  the  IGtli,  our  patli  lay  througli  thiek 
swam])S  and  forest ;  we  recrossed  the  small  stream 
we  had  forded  the  day  before,  and  our  guide  con- 
ducted us  to  the  Ijanks  of  the  At/iahasra,  which 
we  also  forded.  As  this  passage  was  the  last  to 
be  made,  we  dried  our  clothes,  and  pursued  our 
journey  through  a  more  agrecalde  country  tlian  on 
the  preceding  days.  In  the  evening  we  camped  on 
the  margin  of  a  verdant  plain,  which,  the  guide 
informed  us,  was  called  Coro  prairie.  AVe  had 
met  in  the  course  of  the  day  several  bulla lo 
tracks,  and  a  numl)cr  of  the  l)onos  of  that  quad- 
ruped bleached  by  time.  Our  flesh-meat  having 
given  out  entirely,  our  supper  consisted  in  somo 
handfuls  of  corn,  which  we  parched  in  a  pan. 

"We  resumed  our  route  very  early  on  the  ITth, 
and  after  passing  a  forest  of  trembling  po^  .ar  or 
aspen,  we  again  came  in  sight  of  the  river  which 
we  had  left  the  day  before.     Arriving  then  at  an 


i;    I 


.'-■'.    1 


r  'jy-:^ 


294 


FRANCIIERE  S  YOYACE. 


elevated  i^romoiitoiy  or  cape,  our  guide  made  us 
turn  back  iu  order  to  pass  it  at  its  most  accessi- 
ble point.  After  crossing  it,  not  without  diflicul- 
ty,  we  soon  came  u{)on  fresli  horse-prints,  a  sure 
indication  that  there  were  some  of  tliose  animals 
in  our  neigliborhood.  Emerging  from  the  forest, 
each  took  the  direction  wliicli  lie  thouglit  would 
lead  soonest  to  an  encampment.  We  all  pres- 
ently arrived  at  an  old  house  wliich  the  traders 
of  tlie  N.  W.  Company  had  once  constructed,  1)ut 
which  had  been  abandoned  for  some  four  or  five 
years.  The  site  of  this  trading  post  is  the  most 
charming  that  can  be  imagined :  suffice  to  say 
that  it  is  built  on  tlie  bank  of  the  beautiful  river 
Athabasca,  and  is  surrounded  l)y  green  and 
smiling  prairies  and  superb  woodlands.  Pity 
there  is  nobody  there  to  enjoy  these  rural  beau- 
ties and  to  praise,  while  admiring  them,  the  Au- 
thor of  Nature.  We  found  there  Mr.  Pillet,  and 
one  of  Mr.  J.  McDonald's  party,  who  had  his  leg 
broken  by  the  kick  of  a  horse.  After  regaling 
ourselves  with  pemican  and  some  fresh  venison, 
WG  set  out  again,  leaving  two  of  the  party  to 


A    MKETINCJ. 


295 


[IC  U3 

cossl- 

ifiicul- 

a  sure 

nimals 

forest, 

wouUl 

lI  prcs- 

traders 

ted,  but 

'  or  five 

lie  most 
to  say 

ful  river 

ecu    and 
rity 

ral  bcau- 
,  tlie  Au- 
iUet,  and 
ad  liis  leg 
regaling 
li  venisou, 
party  to 


take  care  of  tlic   lanic  man,  and  went  on  about 
eight  or  nine  miles  farther  to  encamp. 

On  tlie  IStli,  we  had  ruiii.  1  took  the  lead, 
and  after  having;  walked  ai>out  ten  or  twelve 
miles,  on  the  slope  of  a  mountain  denuded  of 
trees,  I  perceived  some  smoke  issuing  from  a  tuft 
of  trees  in  the  bottom  of  a  valley,  and  near  the 
river.  I  descended  innnediutelv,  and  reached  a 
small  camp,  where  I  found  two  nn^n  wlio  were 
coming  to  meet  us  with  four  horses.  I  made 
them  fire  off  two  guns  as  a  signal  to  tlie  rest  of 
our  people  who  were  coming  up  in  the  rear,  and 
presently  Ave  heard  it  repeated  on  the  river,  from 
"which  we  were  not  far  distant.  We  repaired 
thither,  and  found  two  of  the  men,  who  had  been 
left  at  the  last  ford,  and  who,  having  constructed 
a  bark  canoe,  were  descending  the  river.  I  made 
one  of  tlicm  disembark,  and  took  his  place,  my 
knee  being  so  painful  that  I  could  walk  no  fur- 
ther. Meanwhile  the  whole  party  came  up;  they 
loaded  the  horses,  and  })ursued  their  route.  In 
the  course  of  the  day  my  companion  (an  Iro- 
quois) and  I,  shot  seven  ducks.     Coming,  at  last, 


«' 

f 

i.  h  . 

t 

'* 

296 


franciiere's  voyage. 


/!.'■•       ' 


to  a  hig'li  promontory  called  Millet's  rock,  wo 
found  some  of  our  foot-travellers  with  ^Messrs. 
Stewart  aud  Clarke,  who  were  on  liorseI)ack,  all 
at  a  stand,  doubting  whether  it  would  answer  to 
wade  round  the  base  of  tlie  rock,  which  dipped 
in  the  water.  We  sounded  the  stream  for  them, 
and  found  it  fordable.  So  they  all  passed  round, 
thereby  avoiding  the  inland  path,  which  is  ex- 
cessively miguing  by  reason  of  the  hills,  which 
it  is  necessary  perpetually  to  mount  and  descend. 
We  encamped,  to  the  number  of  seven,  at  the 
entrance  of  what  at  hiu'li  water  mia-ht  be  a  lake, 
but  was  then  but  a  flat  of  Idackish  sand,  with  a 
narrow  channel  in  the  centre.  Here  we  made 
an  excellent  supper  on  the  wild  ducks,  while 
those  who  were  behind  had  nothino-  to  eat. 


ROCKY   MOUNT  AT  Nf=^   ITOUSK. 


297 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Arrival  rvt  tlio  Fort  of  the  Mouiitriiris. —  Doscn'pti(»n  of  this  Post. 

—  Some  Detiiilsin  Regiinl  to  the  Rocky  Mountain:?. —  Mountain 
Shof'p,  &c. —  Coiitiiiuatioii  of  tho  Journey. —  Unhappy  Aeeident. 

—  Reflections. —  News  from  Cunachi. —  Hunter'.s  Lodge. —  Pim- 
bina  and  Red  Deer  Rivers. 

On  the  lOtli  wc  raised  our  camp  and  followed 
the  shore  of  the  little  dry  lake,  along  a  smooth 
sandy  beach,  having  abandoned  our  little  bark 
canoe,  both  because  it  had  become  nearly  unser- 
viceable, and  because  we  knew  ourselves  to  be 
very  near  the  Rocky  Mountains  House.  In  fact, 
we  had  not  gone  above  five  or  six  miles  when 
we  discerned  a  column  of  smoke  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream.  We  immediate]}'  1  )"ded 
across,  and  arrived  at  tho  post,  where  .  c  lound 
Messrs.  McDonald,  Stuart,  and  M'Kenzie,  who 

had  preceded  us  only  two  days. 

13* 


298 


FIlANniEIlES  VOVACE. 


'^^1 


The  pOJ  >r  llio  I^U'lvy  ^loimtains,  in  En<j:lisli, 
Rock//  Moin  Iduis  IIoKsr,  is  riitiintod  on  the 
slion;  of  the  little  lake  I  have  nieiitioiicd,  in  tlie 
midst  of  a  wood,  and  is  suD'ounded,  oxeej)!  on 
the  water  side,  by  steep  roeks,  iidiabited  only  by 
the  monntain  sheep  and  goat.  Here  is  seen  in 
tlie  west  the  ehain  of  the  Roeky  Mountains, 
whose  sunnnits  arc  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
On  the  lake  side,  MUh'Ta  Rock,  of  which  I  have 
spoken  above,  is  in  lull  view,  of  an  immense 
height,  and  resemldes  the  front  of  a  lingo  church 
seen  in  perspective.  The  post  was  under  the 
charge  of  a  ^Ir.  Decoigne.  He  docs  not  pro- 
cure many  furs  for  the  company,  which  has  only 
established  the  house  as  a  provision  depot,  with 
the  view  of  fticilitating  the  passage  of  the  moun- 
tains to  those  of  its  emploijlis  wiio  are  repairing 
to,  or  returning  from,  the  Columbia. 

People  speak  so  often  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
and  appear  to  know  so  little  about  them,  that  the 
reader  will  naturally  desire  me  to  say  here  a 
word  on  that  subject.  If  we  are  to  credit  trav- 
ellerSj  and  the  most  recent  maps,  these  mountains 


EXTKNT    OF   TMK    C'HAIX. 


290 


extend  nearly  in  a  strnijilit  lino,  from  tlio  ']^)\]\ 
or  3Gth  degree  of  north  hititude,  to  \\ui  nioiilh  (d' 
the  Utfjii>'/i(i/i^  01'  AT'Koizir's  rivcr/u]  the  Ardie 
ocean,  in  hititude  ()'>■-'  or  (jip  X.  This  distance 
of  thirty  degrees  of  latitude,  or  S('vcn  hundred 
and  fifty  leagues,  equivalent  to  two  tliousand 
two  hundred  and  iiftv  Knu-lisii  miles  or  thcrca- 
bouts,  is,  however,  only  tlie  mean  side  of  a  right- 
angled  triangle,  the  l)asc  of  which  occuj)ies  twen- 
ty-six degrees  of  longitude,  in  latitude  80^  or 
3G°,  that  is  to  say,  is  aljout  sixteen  hundred 
miles  long,  while  tlie  chain  of  mountains  forms 
tlic  hypoLoiuse ;  so  that  the  real,  and  as  it  were 
diagonal,  length  of  the  chain,  across  the  conti- 
nent, must  be  very  near  tlirce  thousand  miles 
from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  In  such  a  vast  extent  of 
mountains,  the  i:)erpcndicular  height  and  width 
of  base  must  necessarily  be  very  unequal.  We 
were  about  eight  days  in  crossing  them  ;  whence 
I  conclude,  from  our  dally  rate  of  travel,  that 
they  may  have,  at  tins  point,  i.  c.,  about  latitude 
04°,  a  base  of  two  hundred  miles. 
The  geographer  Pinkerton  is  assuredly  mis- 


I''  .    •; 


•* 


=1 


1 

4    « 

i 

■  ( 

:' 

* 

'; 

• 

1 

* 

) 
1 

t 

'^'i-'V''  -■•'■' 

'.■'■'■      i 

■  .■■■ 

( 

800 


FRAXniKRK's    VOYAGE. 


taken,  \vlii3ii  ho  <:,'ivos  thi\so  inDimtaiiis  an  eleva- 
tion of  but  three  tli(jiisan<l  feet  al)ovo  tlic  level 
of  the  sea ;    from  my  own  ol)servations  I  would 
not  hesitate  to  liive  tliem  six  thousand  ;    we  at- 
tained, in  crossinjj;  them,  an  eh;vatioii  |)i'ol)al»ly  of 
fifteen  hundred  feet  al)Ovc  tin;  valleys,  and  were 
not,  perhaj)3,  nearin*  than  half  way  of  their  total 
height,  while  the  valleys  themselves  must  bo  con- 
sideraVdy  elevated  al)ove  tlic  level  of  the  Paeifie, 
considering  the  prodigious  numher  of  rapids  and 
falls  which  arc  met  in  the  Columbia,  from  the 
first  falls  to  Canoe  river.     Be  that  as  it  may,  if 
these  mountains  yield  to  the  Andes  in  elevation 
and  extent,  they  very  much  surpass  in  both  re- 
spects the  Ai)alachian  chain,  regarded  until  re- 
cently as  the  principal  mountains  of  North  Amer- 
ica :  they  give  rise,  accordingly,  to  an  infinity  of 
streams,  and  to  the  greatest  rivers  of  the  conti- 
nent.* 


^^iiHi'i 


*  Tin's  is  iiitc'iTsting',  ;i9  tlio  rougli  Ciilcnlutioii  of  jin  unsriciitific 
tnvollor,  utiprovidi'd  with  inatrinnonrs,  and  at  tlial  d;ito.  The 
roiil  liei^ht  (if  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as  now  asoertuinod,  averages 
twelve  thousdiid  feet;  the  highest  known  peak  is  about  sixteen 
thousand, —  Ed. 


I 


ANINfAL??. 


801 


clcva- 

IcVi'l 

wo  III  <  I 
wc  at- 

[\\)\y  of 

(1  W(M-C 

ir  total 
bo  coii- 
racitl(3, 
►ids  and 
:-om  the 

may,  if 
Icvation 

both  rc- 
initil  re- 
:h  Aincr- 

finity  of 
he  conti- 


1  iinsric'iitific 
•late.  The 
i.'il,avoi;vc:P3 
buut  sixteen 


Tliey  olTor  a  vast  and  iinexiilorod  field  to  nat- 
urnl  liistoiy:  no  i»otanist,  no  miuendouisl,  has 
yet  cxainiiied  them.  The  lirst  travcllerH  called 
them  the  Glitteriii«?  mountains,  on  account  of  the 
infinite  number  of  innneuse  rock  crystals,  which, 
they  say,  cover  their  surfaci^,  and  which,  when 
they  are  not  covered  Avitli  snow,  or  lu  tlie  bare 
places,  reflect  to  an  immense  distance  tlie  rays 
of  the  sun.  Tlie  name  of  Rocky  mountains  was 
given  them,  prol)al»ly,  by  later  travellers,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  enormous  isolated  rocks  which 
they  offer  here  and  there  to  the  view.  In  fact, 
Millet's  rock,  and  31'  GUIirraj/s  a1)ovc  all,  ap- 
peared to  me  wonders  of  nature.  Sonu)  think 
that  they  contain  metals,  and  precious  stones. 

With  the  exception  of  the  mountain  sheej)  and 
goat,  the  animals  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  if 
these  rocky  passes  support  any,  are  not  better 
known  than  their  vegctalde  and  mineral  produc- 
tions. The  mountain  sheep  resorts  generally  to 
steep  rocks,  where  it  is  impossi)»le  for  men  or 
even  for  wolves  to  reach  them :  we  saw  several 
on  the  rocks  which  surround  the  Mountain  House. 


*'•  ft  t 


302 


FRANCIIERE  S   VOYAGE. 


This  animal  lias  great  curved  liorns,  like  tlioso 
of  the  Jomestic  ram:  its  -wool  is  loii^,  but 
coarse  ;  that  on  the  belU^  is  tlic  finest  and  whitest. 
The  Indians  who  dwell  near  tlie  mountains,  make 
blankets  of  it,  similar  to  ours,  wliich  tliey  ex- 
change with  the  Indians  of  the  Columbia  for  fish, 
and  otlier  commodities.  Tlic  ibex,  or  mountain 
goai-,  frequents,  like  the  slieep,  tlie  top  and  tho 
declivities  of  tlie  rocks :  it  differs  from  the  sheep 
in  haviiaL?-  hair  instead  of  avooI,  and  straia'lit  horns 
projecting  backward,  instead  of  curved  ones. 
The  color  is  also  diiferent.  Tlic  natives  soften 
the  horns  of  these  animals  by  boiling,  and  mako 
platiers,  spoons,  etc.,  of  them,  in  a  very  artistic 
manner. 

Mr.  DccoigTic  had  not  sufficient  food  for  us, 
not  having  expected  so  many  people  to  arrive  at 
once.  His  hunters  were  then  absent  on  Smoke 
river  (so  called  by  some  travellers  who  saw  in 
the  neighborhood  a  volcanic  mountain  belching 
smoke),  in  quest  of  game.  "We  were  therefore 
compelled  to  kill  one  of  the  horses  for  food.  "We 
found  no  birch  bark  either  to  make  canoes,  and 


WE   EMBARK. 


303 


3    tllOSO 
Iff,    ^>l^t 

whit  est. 


LS. 


make 


;hcy  cx- 
for  fish, 
nountaln 
and  tho 
;lic  sheep 
rht  horns 
cd   ones. 
'cs  soften 
and  make 
y  artistic 

►d  for  us, 
arrive  at 
Ion  Smoke 
ho  saw  in 
belching 
therefore 
tood.    We 
mocs,  and 


set  .the  men  to  work  in  constructinir  some  of 
wood.  For  want  ol'  belter  niateriul.'^,  we  were 
obliged  to  use  po})hir.  On  tlie  22d,  tlie  three 
men  whom  wo  had  k^ft  at  the  okl-hou.se,  arrived 
in  a  little  canoe  made  of  two  elk-skins  sewed  to- 
gether, and  stretched  like  a  drum,  on  a  frame  of 
poles. 

On  the  24th,  four  canoes  being  ready,  wc  fas- 
tened them  together  two  and  two,  and  eml)arked, 
to  descend  the  river  to  an  old  post  called  Ilini- 
ter^s  Lodg-c,  where  Mr.  Decoigiie,  who  was  to 
return  with  us  to  Canada,  informed  us  that  we 
should  find  some  bark  canoes  oi  pachc,  placed 
there  for  tlie  use  of  the  persons  who  descend  the 
river.  The  water  was  not  deep,  and  the  stream 
was  rapid ;  we  glided  along,  so  to  speak,  for 
ten  or  a  dozen  leagues,  and  encamped,  having 
lost  sight  of  the  mountains.  In  proportion  as 
we  advanced,  the  banks  of  the  river  grew  less 
steep,  and  the  country  became  more  agreeable. 

On  the  25th,  having  only  a  little  pemican  left, 
which  we  wished  to  keep,  wc  sent  forward  a 
Imnter  in  the  little  elk-skin  canoe,  to  kill  some 


•i''"'  ,.*  I. 
(    i  ,-  >"  1 


'*''■■■ 

/I.  •■■■.  • 


■^r 


304 


FRAXCIIEIIE  S  VOYAGE. 


game.  About  ten  o'clock,  wo  found  liini  waiting 
for  us  with  two  moose  tliat  lie  liad  killed.  IIo 
had  suspended  tlic  liearts  from  tlic  brancli  of  a 
tree  as  a  signal.  "We  landed  some  men  to  help 
him  in  cutting  up  and  sliipi)ing  the  game.  Wc 
continued  to  glide  safely  down.  But  toward  two 
o'clock,  P.  ^r.,  after  doubling  a  point,  we  got 
into  a  considerable  rapid,  where,  by  the  mala- 
droitness  of  those  who  manaQ:ed  the  double 
pirogue  in  which  I  was,  we  met  with  a  melan- 
choly accident.  I  had  proposed  to  g'o  ashore,  in 
order  to  lighten  the  canoes,  which  were  loaded 
to  the  water's  edge ;  but  the  steersman  insisted 
that  we  could  go  down  safe,  Avhile  the  bow-man 
was  turning  the  head  of  the  pirogue  toward 
the  beach  ;  by  tliis  manoeuvre  we  were  brought 
athwart  the  stream,  Avhich  was  carrying  us  fast 
toward  the  falls  ;  just  then  our  frail  bark  sinirk 
upon  a  sunken  rock ;  the  lower  canoe  broke 
amid-ships  and  filled  instantly,  and  the  u])per 
one  being  lighted,  rolled  over,  prccijutating  us 
all  into  the  water.  Two  of  our  men,  Olivier  Roy 
Lapensee  and  Andre  Bclangev,  were  drowned ; 


li 


I 


SAD    ACCIDKXT. 


805 


and  it  Avas  not  without  oxtrenio  difficulty  that 
we  succeeded  in  fsavini!;  Messrs.  Fillet  and  Wal- 
lace,  as  well  as  a  man  named  /.  Ilnrtean.     The 
latter  was  so  far  gone  that  we  were  obliticd  to 
have  recourse  to  the  usual  means  for  the  resusci- 
tation of  drowned  persons.      The  men  lost  all 
their  eflects ;  the  others  recovered  but  a  part  of 
theirs ;    and  all  our  provisions  went.      Toward 
evening',  in  ascending  the  river  (for  I  had  gone 
about  two  miles  below,  to  recover  the  eflects 
floating  down),  we  found  the  body  of  Lapensee. 
We  interred  it  as   decently  as  we  could,  and 
planted  at  his  grave  a  cross,  on  which  I  inscribed 
■with  the  point  of  my  knife,  his  name  and  the 
manner  and  date  of  his  death.     BL'langcr's  l)ody 
was  not  found.     If  anything  could  console  the 
shades  of  the  departed  for  a  premature  and  un- 
fortunate end,  it  would  be,  no  doubt,  that  tlie 
funeral  rites  have  been  paid  to  tlieir  remains, 
and  that  they  themselves  have  given  their  names 
to  the  places  where  they  perished  :  it  is  thus  that 
the  shade  of  Palinurus  re^joiced  in  the  regions 
below,  at  learning  from  the  mouth  of  the  >Sibyl, 


306 


FIIA  XrH  ERH  S    VO YA (J  E. 


/!:•■: 


tliat  the  promoiitoiy  near  which  ho  was  drowned 
would  liuDcot'urth  ])o  called  ])y  his  name  :  ^andet 
co^nomine  Icrra.  The  rapid  and  the  point  of 
land  whore  tlio  accident  I  have  described  took 
place,  will  bear,  and  bears  already,  probably,  tho 
name  of  Lapensle* 

On  the  20 Ih,  a  part  of  our  people  embarked  in 
tho  three  canoes  which  remained,  and  the  others 
followed  the  banks  of  tho  river  on  foot.  Wo 
saw  in  several  places  some  veins  of  bituminous 
coal,  on  tho  Ijanks  between  the  surface  of  the 
water  and  that  of  the  plain,  say  thirty  feet  below 
the  latter;  tho  veins  had  a  dip  of  about  25°. 
We  tried  some  and  found  it  to  burn  well.  "\Yo 
halted  in  the  evening  near  a  small  stream,  where 
wo  constructed  some  rafts,  to  carry  all  our  peo- 
ple. 

On  the  2Ttli,  I  went  forward  in  the  little  canoe 

*  Mr.  Franchcre,  not  having  the  fear  of  tho  Abb'?  Gaume  be- 
fore; his  eyes,  so  wroto  in  hi.s  Journal  of  1814;  fintliiig  consola- 
tion in  a  thouirhf  savorins:,  we  confess,  nioro  of  Virijil  than  of  the 
catechism.  It  is  a  classic  term  that  colls  to  onr  miini  rough  Cap- 
tain TJiorn\i  sailor-like  contempt  for  his  liierar}'  passengeis  so 
comically  closcril)ecl  hy  Mr.  Irv hi sf.  Half  of  the  humor  as  well 
as  of  the  real  interest  of  Mr.  Franchcre's  charming  narrative,  is 
lost  by  one  who  has  never  road  "  Astoria." 


V 

s  ■ 


I 


iif 


J  ' 

■i 


A    RRNCONTRK. 


807 


of  skins,  with  tlio  two  liunt(3i's.  Wc  soon  killed 
an  elk,  which  wc  skinned  and  suspended  the 
hide,  besmeared  with  lAood,  from  the  branch  of 
a  tree  at  the  extremity  of  a  point,  in  order  that 
the  peoi)lc  behind,  as  tliey  camo  up,  niiglit  per- 
ceive and  take  in  the  fruit  of  our  chase.  After 
fortifying  ourselves  with  a  little  food,  we  contin- 
ued to  glide  down,  and  encamped  for  the  night 
near  a  thick  wood  where  our  hunters,  from  the 
tracks  they  oljserved,  had  hopes  of  encountering 
and  capturing  some  ])ears.  This  hope  was  not 
realized. 

On  the  28th,  a  little  after  quitting  camp,  we 
killed  a  swan.  While  I  was  busy  cooking  it,  the 
hunters  having  plunged  into  the  wood,  I  heard  a 
rifle-shot,  which  seemed  to  me  to  proceed  from  a 
direction  opposite  to  that  which  they  had  taken. 
They  returned  very  soon  running,  and  were  ex- 
tremely surprised  to  learn  that  it  was  not  I  who 
had  fired  it.  Nevertheless,  the  canoes  and  rafts 
having  overtaken  us,  wc  continued  to  descend 
the  river.  Very  soon  wo  met  a  l)ark  canoe,  con- 
taining two  men  and  a  woman,  who  were  ascend- 


» 


!  '  '  J  <  1 


'  :    ■   ■ 


;(:•• 


308 


FRAXniERES   VOYAGE. 


ing  the  river  and  bringing-  letters  and  some  goods 
for  tlio  Rocky  Mimalains  House.  We  learned 
from  tlicse  letters  addressed  to  ]\[r.  Decoignc, 
several  eircunistances  of  tlic  war,  and  among 
others  tlie  defeat  of  Captain  Barclay  on  Lake 
Erie.  We  arrived  that  evening  at  Ilnntcr's 
Loclg-c,  where  we  found  four  new  birch-bark 
canoes.  We  got  ready  two  of  them,  and  resumed 
our  journey  down,  on  the  31st.  Mr.  Fillet  set 
out  before  us  with  the  hunters,  at  a  very  early 
hour.  They  killed  an  elk,  which  they  left  on  a 
point,  and  wiiich  we  took  in.  The  country 
through  which  we  passed  that  day  is  the  most 
charming  ])ossible  ;.the  river  is  wide,  handsome, 
and  bordered  with  low  outjutting  points,  covered 
with  birch  and  poplar. 

On  the  1st  of  June,  in  the  evening,  we  en- 
camped at  the  confluence  of  the  river  Pembina. 
This  stream  comes  from  the  south,  and  takes  its 
rise  in  one  of  the  spurs  of  the  great  chain  of  the 
Rocky  mountains ;  ascending  it  for  two  days, 
and  crossing  a  neck  of  land  about  seventy-five 
miles,  one  reaches  Fort  Augustus,  a  trading  post 


LITTLE  RED  ELK  RIVER. 


309 


mc  goods 
3  learned 
Decoignc, 
d    among 
on  Lake 
Ilinitcr's 
jircli-bark 
lI  resumed 
rillet  set 
^'cry  early 
r  left  on  a 
0   country 
the  most 
landsomc, 
s,  covered 

g,  we  en- 
Pemhina. 
takes  its 
ain  of  the 
two  days, 
venty-five 
iding  post 


on  tho  Saskatcli curiae  river.  IMessrs.  M'Donald 
and  M'Kenzie  had  taken  tliis  route,  and  liad  left 
for  us  half  a  sack  of  pcmican  in  a  cache^  at  the 
mouth  of  tho  river  Pembina.  After  landini;-  that 
cvcninir,  Mr.  Stuart  and  I  amused  ourselves  with 
angling,  but  took  only  five  or  six  small  fish. 

On  the  2d,  we  passed  tlie  confluence  of  Little 
Slave  Lake  river.  At  <i'vj:\\i  o'clock  in  tlie  morn- 
ing,  we  met  a  band  or  fixmily  of  Indians,  of  the 
Knisteneaux  tribe.  Thev  had  just  killed  a  buf- 
falo,  which  wc  bouglit  of  tlicm  for  a  small  brass- 
kettle.  We  could  not  have  had  a  more  season- 
able rcueontre^  for  our  })rovisions  were  all  con- 
sumed. 

On  the  3d,  we  reached  Little  Red  Elk  river, 
which  we  began  to  ascend,  quitting  the  Atha- 
basca, or  Great  Red  Elk.  This  stream  was 
very  narrow  in  its  channel,  and  obstructed 
with  boulders :  wc  were  obliged  to  take  to  the 
shore,  while  some  of  tlie  men  dragged  along  the 
canoes.  Their  method  was  to  lash  poles  across, 
and  wading  themselves,  lift  the  canoes  over  tho 
rocks — a  laborious  and  infinitely  tedious  opera- 


. 

f    . 

'%:^ 

'  , 

S^^M 

■  V' 

*^y 

R9^ 

-'^, 

',■''" 

<;■) 


♦,-"i''. 


310 


franciiere's  voyage. 


tion.  The  march  along  the  banks  was  not  less 
disagreeable :  for  we  had  to  traverse  points  of 
forest  where  the  fire  had  passed,  and  which  were 
filled  with  fallen  trees. 

"Wallace  and  I  having  stopped  to  quench  our 
thirst  at  a  rill,  the  rest  got  in  advance  of  us;  and 
we  lost  our  way  in  a  labyrinth  of  buffalo  tracks 
which  wo  mistook  for  the  trail,  so  tliat  we  wan- 
dered about  for  three  hours  ])cfore  we  came  up 
with  the  party,  wlio  began  to  fear  for  our  safety, 
and  were  firing  signal-iruns  to  direct  us.  As  the 
river  now  grew  deeper,  we  all  embarked  in  the 
canoes,  and  about  evening  overtook  our  hunters, 
who  had  killed  a  moose  and  her  two  calves. 

We  continued  our  journey  on  the  4th,  some- 
times seated  in  our  canoes,  sometimes  marching 
along  the  river  on  foot,  and  encamped  in  the 
evening,  excessively  fatigued. 


ANTOINE   DEJARLAIS. 


311 


not  less 
loiiits  of 
icli  wero 


leucli  our 
if  us ;  and 
xlo  tracks 
t  wc  wan- 
3  came  up 
our  saCcty, 
3.     As  the 
kcd  iu  the 
ur  lumtcrs, 
alvcs. 
4th,  some- 
Is  marchmg 
Iped  in  the 


CHAPTER  XXY. 

Red  Doer  Lake. — Antoliie  Dcjailais. —  Bravor  River. —  N.  Na- 
deau. —  Mooso  River. —  Biidiro  Lake. —  Sajskatcliawiiie  River. 
—  Fort  Vermilion. —  Mr.  Hallet. — Trading-Houses. —  Beautiful 
Country. —  Reflections. 

The  5th  of  June  brought  us  to  the  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  called  Red  Deer  lake,  irregular 
in  shape,  dotted  with  islands,  and  al)0ut  forty 
miles  in  length  by  thirty  in  its  greatest  wiuth. 
"We  met,  about  the  middle  of  it,  a  small  canoe 
conducted  by  two  young  women.  They  were 
searching  for  gulls'  and  ducks'  eggs  on  the 
islands,  this  being  the  season  of  laying  for 
those  aquatics.  They  told  us  that  tlicir  father 
was  not  far  distant  from  the  place  wlicrc  we  met 
them.  In  fact,  we  presently  saw  hiin  appear  in 
a  canoe  with  his  two  boys,  rounding  a  little  isle. 
We  joined  him,  and  learned  that  his  name  was 


312 


FRANC nERF/S    VOYA(JE. 


V       f.f 


/I.'- 


Iv:. 


1 1 


Antoinc  Dc'-jarlais  ;  that  lie  had  boon  a  guide  iu 
the  service  of  the  Northwest  Company,  ])ut  had 
left  them  since  1805.  Onbeinu*  made  acquainted 
witli  our  need  of  provisions,  lie  oflered  us  a  great 
quantity  of  eggs,  and  made  one  of  our  men  em- 
bark with  his  two  daughters  in  their  little  canoe, 
to  seek  some  more  substantial  supplies  at  his 
cabin,  on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  lie  him- 
self accom})anied  us  as  far  as  a  portage  of  about 
twenty-five  yards  formed  at  the  outlet  of  the 
lake  by  a  Beaver  dam.  Having  performed  the 
portage,  and  passed  a  small  pond  or  marsh,  we 
encamped  to  await  the  return  of  our  man.  lie 
arrived  the  next  morning,  with  Dgarlais,  bring- 
ing us  about  fifty  pounds  of  dried  venison  and 
from  ten  to  twelve  pounds  of  tallow.  We  invited 
our  host  to  breakfiist  with  us :  it  was  the  least 
we  could  do  after  the  good  offices  he  had  ren- 
dered us.  This  man  was  married  to  an  Indian 
woman,  and  lived  with  his  family,  on  the  prod- 
uce of  his  chase ;  he  appeared  quite  contented 
with  his  lot.  Nobody  at  least  disputed  with  him 
the  sovereignty  of  Red  Deer  lake,  of  which  he 


TOILSOME   TROuRESS. 


Ci-t  o 


••iiide  ill 
])ut  luid 
:^uaiutod 
5  a  great 
men  cui- 
Ic  cauoc, 
}S  at  Ilia 
He  liim- 
of  ai)Out 
ct  of  tlie 
jriiicd  the 
marrfli,  we 
mail.     lie 
.ais,  In-ing- 
;nison  and 
We  invited 
3  tlic  least 
le  liad  rcu- 
)  an  Indian 
the  prod- 
3  contented 
ed  witli  liim 
)f  which  ho 


liad,  as  it  were,  taken  poj'^ei^sioii.  lie  Ix'o-rrcd 
me  to  read  lor  him  two  letters  \vhi«'li  lie  liad  bad 
in  his  possession  i'or  two  ycnirs,  luid  of  which  he 
did  nut  vet  know  the  contents.  Thev  were  from 
one  of  his  sisters,  and  dated  at  Verclh  rrs^  m 
Canada.  I  even  thoiiu'lit  that  I  recouiiisi'd  the 
handwriting  of  Mr.  L.  G.  Lahadie,  teacher  of 
that  parish.  At  last,  having  testified  to  this 
good  man,  in  suitahle  terms,  our  gratitudi'  lor  the 
serviees  he  had  rendered  us,  we  (piilted  iiini  and 
prosecuted  our  journey. 

After  makinti-  two  i)ortau'es,  we  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  Beaver  river,  wliieh  was  here  Itut  a  riv- 
ulet. It  is  hy  this  route  tliat  the  canoes  ordi- 
narily pass  to  reaeh  Little  Slave  lake  and  the 
Athabasca  country,  from  the  head  of  Lake  Supe- 
rior, via.,  Cuuiberland  House,  on  Eiii^-Iish  river. 
AVc  were  obliged  bv  the  shallowness  ot  the 
stream,  to  drag  along  our  canoes,  walking  on  a 
bottom  or  beach  of  sand,  where  we  bea'an  to  feel 
the  importunity  of  the  mosfpiitoes.  One  of  the 
hunters  scoured  the  woods  for  game  but  without 

success.      By-and-by  we  passed  a  small   canoe 

14 


1  :.  M 


I    ■» 


;U4 


rnAN'ciiKiii:  s  votac.k. 


turned  bottom  up  and  covered  with  a  Vjlankct. 
Soon  after  wc  came  to  a  cabin  or  lodge,  where 
we  found  an  old  Canadian  hunter  nam(;d  Nadeau. 
lie  was  reduced  to  the  last  stage  of  weakness, 
having  had  nothing  to  eiit  for  two  days.  Never- 
theless, a  young  man  who  was  married  to  one  of 
his  dauglitcrs,  came  in  shortly  after,  witli  the 
good  news  that  he  had  just  killed  a  buflalo ;  a 
circumstance  which  determined  us  to  encamp 
there  for  the  night.  We  sent  some  of  our  men 
to  get  in  the  meat.  Nadeau  gave  us  half  of  it, 
and  told  us  that  wc  sliould  fmd,  thirty  miles  low- 
er down,  at  the  foot  of  a  pine  tree,  a  cache, 
where  he  had  deposited  ten  swan-skins,  and 
some  of  martin,  with  a  net,  which  he  prayed  us 
to  take  to  the  next  trading-post.  We  quitted 
this  good  fellow  the  next  morning,  and  pursued 
our  way.  Arriving  at  the  place  indicated,  we 
found  the  cache,  and  took  the  net,  leaving  the 
other  articles.  A  short  distance  further,  we 
came  to  Moose  river,  which  we  had  to  ascend,  in 
order  to  reach  the  lake  of  that  name.  The 
water  in  this  river  was  so  low  that  wc  were 


LO.JNO    Oim   WAY. 


JU") 


iankct. 

wlicro 
Jadeau. 
akiioss, 

Nevcr- 
I  one  of 
ith  the 
Tulo;  a 
encamp 
our  men 
ilf  of  it, 
lies  low- 
a  cache, 
ins,   and 
L-aycd  us 
5  quitted 

pursued 

ated,  we 
iving  the 

ther,  we 

scend,  in 
me.    The 

we  wore 


obliged  entirely  to  unload  the  canoo>»,  and  to 
lash  poles  across  them,  as  we  luid  done  bd'ore, 
that  the  men  might  carry  them  on  their  shoulders 
over  the  places  where  they  could  not  he  fli)ated. 
Ilavinji;  distrilnited  the  ba;>-ii-a''-e  tu  the  remainder 
of  the  hands,  we  ])ursued  our  way  through  the 
woods,  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  r)ec()igne. 

Tliis  gentlenum,  who  had  not  passed  here  for 
nineteen  years,  soon  lost  his  way,  and  we  got 
separated  into  small  parties,  hi  the  course  of  the 
afternoon,  some  going  one  way,  and  some  another, 
in  search  of  Moose  lake.  But  as  we  had  out- 
stripped the  men  who  carried  the  baggage  and 
the  small  stock  of  i)rovision  that  old  Nadeau  had 
given  us,  Mr.  AVallace  and  I.  thought  it  prudent 
to  retrace  our  steps  and  keep  with  the  rear-guard. 
"VVe  soon  met  Mr.  Fillet  and  one  of  the  hunters. 
The  latter,  ferreting  the  woods  on  both  sides  cf 
a  trail  that  he  had  discovered,  soon  gave  a  whoop, 
to  signify  that  we  should  stop.  Presently  emer- 
ging from  the  underwood,  he  showed  us  a  horse- 
whip which  he  had  found,  and  from  which  and 
from  other  uinnistakeablc  sirnis,  he  was  confident 


BIG 


FRAXCIIERE  S   VOYAGE. 


•i^^ 


i& . 


tlic  trail  would  lead  cither  to  the  lake  or  a  navi- 
gable part  ol"  Liie  river.  The  men  with  the  bag- 
gage then  coining  \\\),  we  entered  the  tliicket 
single  lile,  and  were  conducted  by  tliis  path,  in 
a  very  short  time,  to  the  river,  on  the  banks  of 
wliicli  were  visilde  the  traces  of  an  old  camping 
ground.  The  niglit  was  coming  on ;  and  soon 
after,  the  canoes  arrived,  to  our  great  satisfaction ; 
for  we  had  begun  to  fear  that  they  had  already 
passed.  The  splashing  of  their  paddles  was  a 
welcome  sound,  and  we  who  had  been  wise 
enough  to  keep  ])ehind,  all  encamped  togetlier. 

Very  early  on  the  Stli,  1  set  out  accompanied 
by  one  of  the  hnnters,  in  quest  of  Messrs.  D. 
Stuart,  Clarke  and  Decoigne,  who  had  gone  on 
ahead,  the  niglit  previous.  I  soon  fonnd  MM. 
Clarke  and  j\I'Gillis  encamped  on  the  shore  of 
the  lake.  The  canoes  presently  arrived  and  we 
embarked ;  MM.  Stuart  and  Decoigne  rejoined 
ns  shortly  after,  and  informed  ns  that  tlicy  had 
bivouacked  on  the  shore  of  Lac  Piinnt,  or  Stink- 
ing lake,  a  pond  situated  about  twelve  miles 
E.  N.  E.  from  the  lake  we  were  now  entering. 


LONG    LAKE. 


317 


Finding  ourselves  thus  reunited,  we  traversed 
the  latter,  which  is  about  eighteen  miles  in  cir- 
cuit, and  has  very  pretty  sliores.  Wo  encamped, 
very  early,  on  an  island,  in  order  to  use  old 
Nadeau's  fisliing  net.  I  visited  it  that  evening 
and  brought  Ijack  three  carp  and  two  water-hens. 
We  left  it  set  all  niglit,  and  the  next  morning 
found  in  it  twentv  white-fi^^li.  Leavini>:  camp  at 
an  earlv  liour,  we  Ci'ained  tlie  entrance  of  a  small 
stream  that  descends  between  some  liills  of  mod- 
erate elevation,  and  there  stopped  to  breakfast. 
I  found  the  white-lish  more  delicious  in  flavor, 
even  than  the  salmon.  AVe  had  again  to  foot  it, 
foUowino;  the  bank  of  this  little  stream.  It  was 
a  painful  task,  as  wc  were  obliged  to  oi)en  a 
path  through  thick  underbrush,  in  the  midst  of  a 
rain  that  lasted  all  day  and  kept  us  drenched. 
Two  mf^n  behig  left  in  each  canoe,  conveyed  them 
up  the  river  about  thirty  miles,  as  far  as  Long 
lake  —  a  narrow  pond,  on  the  margin  of  which 
we  spent  the  night. 

On  the  10th,  we  got  through  this  lakelet,  and 
entered  another  small  stream,  which  it  was  ne- 


it- 


f  i-  ■  ■  .  . 


('■  *M  '■■■■■ 

m 

1 

'sl^      . 

'•k 

t  ■ 

j^|: 

^■felk 

^         ' 

\ 

318 


PRANCIIERE  S  VOYAGE. 


ccssaiy  to  navigate  in  tlio  same  manner  as  the 
preceding,  and  wliich  conducted  us  to  Bridge 
lake.  The  latter  received  its  name  from  a  sort 
of  bridge  or  causeway,  formed  at  its  southern 
extremity,  and  which  is  nothing  more  than  a 
Iiuge  beaver  dam.  We  found  here  a  lodge, 
wliere  were  a  young  man  and  two  women,  who 
had  charge  of  some  horses  appertaining  to  one 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  trading  houses.  We  bor- 
rowed of  them  half  a  dozen  pack  horses,  and 
crossed  the  bridge  with  them.  After  surmount- 
ing a  considerable  hill,  we  reached  an  open,  level, 
and  dry  prairie,  which  conducted  us  in  about  two 
hours  to  an  ancient  trading-post  on  the  banks  of 
the  Saskatchaiuine.  Knowing  that  wo  were 
near  a  factory,  we  made  our  toilets  as  well  as 
we  could,  before  arriving.  Toward  sundown, 
we  reached  Fort  Vermilion,  which  is  situated 
on  the  bank  of  a  river,  at  the  foot  of  a  superb 
hill. 

We  found  at  this  post  some  ninety  persons, 
men,  women,  and  children ;  these  people  depend 
for  subsistence  on   the  chase,  and  fishin"-  with 


ODD    MISCALCULATION. 


819 


hooks  and  lines,  wliicli  is  very  precarious.  Mr. 
Hallet,  the  clerk  in  cliargc  was  absent,  and  wo 
were  dismayed  to  hear  that  there  were  no  pro- 
visions on  the  place  :  a  very  disagreeable  piece 
of  news  for  people  famished  as  we  were.  We 
had  been  led  to  suppose  that  if  we  could  only 
reach  the  plains  of  the  Saskatchawine,  we  should 
be  in  the  land  of  plenty.  'Mv.  Ilallet,  however, 
was  not  long  in  arriving:  ho  had  two  quarters 
of  buffalo  meat  brought  out,  wliich  liad  been  laid 
in  ice,  and  prepared  us  supper.  Mr.  Plallet  was 
a  polite  sociable  man,  loving  his  ease  passably 
well,  and  desirous  of  living  in  these  wild  coun- 
tries, as  people  do  in  civilized  lands.  Having 
testified  to  him  our  surprise  at  seeing  in  one  of 
the  buildings  a  large  cariole,  like  those  of  Cana- 
da, he  informed  us  that  having  horses,  lie  had 
had  this  carriage  made  in  order  to  enjoy  n  sloigh- 
ridc;  ])ut  that  the  workmen  having  forgo  l  ^ 
take  the  measure  of  the  doors  of  the  building  be- 
fore constructing  it,  it  was  found  when  finished, 
much  too  large  for  tlioin,  and  could  never  be  got 

m 

out  of  the  room  where  it  was  :  and  it  was  like  to 


■Wt..'.  t    t       • 


^M 


320 


'c 


FRANCHERE  S  VOYAGE. 


remain  tlicre  a  long  time,  as  he  was  not  disposed 
to  demolish  the  house  for  the  pleasure  of  usinj^ 
the  cariolc.  ^ 

By  the  side  of  the  factory  of  the  Northwest 
Company,  is  another  belonging  to  the  Company 
of  Hudson's  Bay.  In  general  tliese  trading- 
houses  are  constructed  thus,  one  close  to  the 
other,  and  surrounded  with  a  common  palisade, 
with  a  door  of  communication  in  tlie  interior  for 
mutual  succor,  in  case  of  attack  on  the  part  of 
the  Indians.  Tlie  latter,  in  this  region,  particu- 
larly the  Black-feet,  Gros-vcntres,  and  those  of 
the  Yellow  river,  are  very  ferocious :  they  live 
by  the  chase,  but  bring  few  furs  to  the  traders ; 
and  tlie  latter  maintain  these  posts  principally  to 
procure  themselves  provisions. 

On  the  11th,  after  breakfasting  it  Fort  Ver- 
milion, we  resumed  our  journey,  with  six  or 
seven  pounds  of  tallow  for  our  whole  stock  of 
food.  This  slender  supply  bronglit  ns  through 
to  the  evening  of  tlie  third  day,  when  we  had  for 
supper  two  ounces  of  tallow  each. 

On  the  lltli,  in  the  morning,  we  killed  a  wild 


BUFFALO. 


821 


goose,  and  toward  midday,  collected  some  Hag- 
root  and  choux-^^ras,  a  wild  lierb,  which  wc 
boiled  with  the  small  game :  we  did  not  ibi"get 
to  thiow  into  the  i)ot  the  little  tallow  we  had 
left,  and  made  a  delicious  repast.  Toward  the 
decline  of  day,  we  had  the  good  luck  to  kill  a 
buffalo. 

On  the  15th,  M^I.  Clarke  and  Decoigne  hav- 
ing landed  during  our  course,  to  hunt,  returned 
presently  with  tlie  agreeable  intelligence  that 
they  had  killed  three  buftaloes.  We  immediate- 
ly encamped,  and  sent  the  greater  part  of  tlie 
men  to  cut  up  the  meat  and  jerk  it.  Tliis  opera- 
tion lasted  till  the  next  evening,  and  wc  set  for- 
ward again  in  tlic  canoes  on  the  ITtli,  with  about 
six  hundred  pounds  of  meat  half  cured.  The 
same  evening  we  perceived  from  our  camp  sev- 
eral herds  of  buffaloes,  but  did  not  give  chase, 
thinking  we  had  enoufrh  meat  to  take  us  to  the 
next  post. 

The  river  SaskrUchawlne    flows  over   a  bed 

composed  of  sand  and  marl,  which  contributes 

not  a  little  to  diminish  the  purity  and  transpa- 

14* 


i  •).  • 


I     ■» 


822 


franchere's  voyage. 


4t 


.'  /■• 


,     4 


i:-^.^T 


;   I  1- 


1 


■Mi 

.  ■   ! 
"A 


rcncy  of  its  waters,  which,  like  those  of  the  Mis- 
souri, are  turl)id  and  whitisli.  Except  for  tliat 
it  is  one  of  tlie  prettiest  rivers  in  the  world.  Tlie 
banks  are  perfectly  chai'niing,  and  offer  in  many 
places  a  scene  the  fairest,  the  most  smiling,  and 
the  best  diversified  that  can  be  seen  or  imagined: 
hills  in  varied  forms,  crowned  with  superb 
groves ;  valleys  agreeably  embrowned,  at  even- 
ing and  morning,  by  the  prolonged  sliadow  of 
the  hills,  and  of  the  Avoods  which  adorn  them ; 
herds  of  light-limbed  antelopes,  and  heavy  colos- 
sal buffalo  —  the  former  bounding  along  the 
slopes  of  the  hills,  the  latter  trampling  under 
their  heavy  feet  the  verdure  of  the  plains ;  all 
these  champaign  beauties  reflected  and  doubled  as 
it  were,  by  the  waters  of  the  river ;  the  melodi- 
ous and  varied  song  of  a  thousand  birds,  perched 
on  the  tree-tops ;  the  refreshing  breath  of  the 
zephyrs ;  the  serenity  of  the  sky  ;  the  purity  and 
salubrity  of  the  air ;  all,  in  a  word,  pours  con- 
tentment and  joy  into  the  soul  of  the  enchanted 
spectator.  It  is  above  all  in  the  morning,  when 
the  sun  is  rising,  and  in  the  evening  when  he  is 


S 


y 


author's  reflection?. 


S23 


setting,  that  the  spectacle  is  really  ravishing.  I 
could  not  detach  my  regards  from  that  supcrl) 
picture,  till  the  nascent  ol)scurity  liad  obliterated 
its  perfection.  Then,  to  the  sweet  pleasure  that 
I  had  tasted,  succeeded  a  lristi\  not  to  say,  a 
sombre,  melancholy.  How  comes  it  to  pass,  I 
said  to  myself,  that  so  beautifid  a  country  is  not 
inhabited  by  human  creatures  ?  The  songs,  the 
hymns,  the  prayers,  of  the  laborer  and  the  arti- 
san, shall  they  never  be  heard  in  tliese  fmo 
plains  ?  Wherefore,  wliile  in  Europe,  and  above 
all  in  England,  so  many  thousands  of  men  do  not 
possess  as  their  own  an  inch  of  ground,  and  cul- 
tivate the  soil  of  their  country  for  proprietors 
who  scarcely  leave  them  wliereon  to  support  ex- 
istence : — wherefore  —  do  so  manv  millions  of 
acres  of  apparently  fat  and  fertile  land,  remain 
uncultivated  and  absolutely  useless  ?  Or,  at 
least,  why  do  they  support  only  herds  of  wild 
animals  ?  Will  men  always  love  better  to  vege- 
tate all  their  lives  on  an  ungrateful  soil,  than  to 
seek  afar  fertile  regions,  in  order  to  pass  in 
peace  and  plenty,  at  least  the  last  portion  of 


V, 


32-4 


f:?..\xciiere  s  voyage. 


u. 


I -v. 


'  .'f 


> 


'.{ 


their  clavs  ?  But  I  deceive  invself;  it  in  not  so 
easy  as  one  thinks,  for  tlio  ])oor  man  to  better  liis 
condition  :  he  has  not  tlie  means  of  transporting 
liiniself  to  distant  countries,  or  he  lias  not  tliose 
of  acqulriuu"  a  proi)erty  there;  for  these  nntilled 
hinds,  deserted,  abandoned,  do  not  appertain  to 
wlioever  wishes  to  establish  himself  upon  them 
and  reduce  them  to  culture  ;  they  have  owners, 
and  from  these  must  be  purchased  the  right  of 
rendering  th  }m  })r()ductive  I  Besides  one  ought 
not  to  give  way  to  illusions :  these  countries,  at 
times  so  delightful,  do  not  enjoy  a  perpetual 
spring ;  they  have  their  winter,  and  a  rigorous 
one ;  a  piercing  cold  is  then  spread  through  the 
atmosphere ;  deep  snows  cover  the  surface ;  the 
frozen  rivers  flow  only  for  the  fish  ;  the  trees  are 
stripped  of  their  leaves  and  hung  with  icicles ; 
the  verdure  of  tlie  plains  has  disappeared ;  the 
hills  and  vall:!vs  offer  but  a  uniform  whiteness : 
Nature  has  lost  all  her  beauty ;  and  man  has 
enough  to  do,  to  shelter  himself  from  the  injuries 
of  the  inclement  season. 


Ir 


FORT   MONTKE. 


325 


CHAPTER   XXYI. 

Fort  Mont6o. —  Cuml)eiliUi(I  Ildiiso. — L!il\(>  Bourhori. —  Grout 
Wiiiiprg  Riipids. —  Lakn  V-'nipcg. —  Trading-House. —  Lake 
of  the  Woods. —  Rainy  Laku  ina.so,  &;c. 

On  the  18tli  of  June  (a  day  wlilcli  its  next  an- 
niversary was  to  render  for  ever  cclcl)ratcd  in 
the  annals  of  the  world),  we  re-embarked  at 
an  early  hour :  and  the  wind  rising,  spread  sail, 
a  thing  we  had  not  done  l)eforc,  since  wo  quitted 
the  river  Columbia.  In  the  afternoon  the  clouds 
gathered  thick  and  black,  and  we  had  a  gust, 
accompanied  with  hail,  but  of  short  duration ;  the 
weather  cleared  up  again,  and  about  sundown  we 
arrived  at  Le  Fort  de  la  3Ioritee,  so  called,  on 
account  of  its  being  a  depot,  where  the  traders 
going  south,  leave  their  canoes  and  take  pack- 
horses  to  reach  their  several  posts.  We  found 
here,  as  at  Fort  Vermilion,  two  trading-houses 


f'^.^A*     • 


32G 


FRANTHERES    VOYACE. 


if  ■> 


joined  together,  to  make  common  cause  against 
the  Indians ;  one  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  tlie  other  to  the  company  of  tlie  North- 
west :  the  Hudson's  Bay  house  being  then  nnder 
the  cliarge  of  a  Mr.  Prudent,  and  tlie  N.  W. 
Company's  under  a  Mr.  John  M'Lean.  Mr.  do 
Roche  Blavc,  one  of  the  partners  of  the  last  com- 
pany having  the  sui)erintendence  of  this  district, 
wliere  he  had  wintered,  had  gone  to  Lake  Supe- 
rior to  attend  the  annual  meeting  of  the  partners. 
There  were  cultivated  fields  around  the  house ; 
the  barley  and  peas  appeared  to  promise  an 
abundant  harvest.  Mr.  M'Lean  received  us  as 
well  as  circumstances  permitted ;  but  that  gen- 
tleman having  no  food  to  give  us,  and  our  buffalo 
meat  beginning  to  spoil,  we  set  off  the  next 
morning,  to  reach  Cumberland  house  as  quick  as 
possible.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  passed 
two  old  forts,  one  of  which  had  been  built  by  the 
French  before  the  conquest  of  Canada.  Accord- 
ing to  our  guide,  it  was  the  most  distant  western 
post  that  the  French  traders  ever  liad  in  tho 
northwestern  wilderness.     Toward  evening  we 


'M  'V 


FORT   CUMniniLAND. 


827 


shot  a  moose.  Tlic  a3j)cct  of  tlic  country  changes 
considerably  since  leaving*  MorUcc ;  the  l)anks  ut* 
the  river  rise  more  l)ol(lly,  and  the  country  is 
covered  with  forests. 

On  the  20th,  we  saw  some  elms  —  a  tree  tliat 
I  had  not  seen  liitherto,  since  my  departure  from 
Canada.  We  reached  Fort  Cuml)erland  a  little 
before  the  setting  of  the  sun.  This  post,  called 
in  English  Cumber/and  House,  is  situated  at  the 
outlet  of  the  Sa.skatchawine,  where  it  empties 
into  English  lake,  l)etween  the  5od  and  r)4th 
degrees  of  north  latitude.  It  is  a  depot  for  those 
traders  avIio  are  o'oino-  to  Slave  lake  or  the  Atha- 
basca,  or  arc  returning  tlicnce,  as  well  as  for 
those  destined  for  the  llocky  mountains.  It  was 
under  the  orders  of  Mr.  J.  D.  Campbell,  who 
having  gone  down  to  Fort  William,  however,  had 
left  it  in  charge  of  a  Mr.  Harrison.  There  aro 
two  factories,  as  at  Vermilion  and  la  Montce. 
At  this  place  the  traders  who  resort  every  year 
to  Fort  William,  leave  their  half-l)rccd  or  Indian 
wives  and  families,  as  they  can  live  here  at  little 
expense,  the  lake  abounding  in  fish.     Messrs. 


Wl«<«~   ..  . 

W^; 

t 

ti 


!i   ■• 


328 


FR A xc II  r:Pv f:  s  vo vao e . 


Clarke  and  Sliiart,  wIjo  were  behind,  arrived  oa 
the  22(1,  and  in  the  evening*  we  had  a  danec. 
They  j^ave  us  four  r^aes  of  peniiean,  and  wo  set 
od*  aiiuin,  on  Ihe  2:*)d,  at  eiji'ht  A.  ^I.  We  cros- 
sed tlie  hike,  and  entered  a  ^^lnall  river,  and  luiv- 
ing  inad(!  some  ei.uhty  or  ninety  miles  nnder  sail, 
eneami)ed  on  a  hjw  shore,  where  the  mosiputoes 
tormented  us  iiorrihlv  all  ni«iht. 

On  the  24th,  we  })assed  Miiddi/  lake,  and  en- 
tered Lake  Jioin-bon,  where  we  fell  in  with  a 
canoe  from  Yor/c  factory,  under  the  command  of 
a  ^Ir.  Kennedy,  clerk  of  the  Hudson's  r)iiy  Com- 
pany. We  collected  some  dozens  of  gulls'  eggs, 
on  the  rocky  islands  of  the  lake :  and  stopi)ing 
on  one  of  tlic  last  at  iiiglit,  having  a  little  Hour 
left,  Mr.  Dccoigne  and  I  amused  ourselves  in 
making  fritters  for  the  next  day's  breakfast :  an 
occupation,  which  despite  the  small  amount  of 
materials,  employed  us  till  we  were  surprised  by 
the  daybreak ;  the  night  l)eing  but  brief  at  this 
season  in  that  high  latitude. 

At  sunrise  on  the  2oth,  we  were  again  afloat, 
passed    Lake    Travers,   or    Cross  lake,  which 


Tin:  kim;  ui'  rm;  lakk. 


i\'2{) 


ived  on 
,  (lance. 
I  wo  HCt 
iVc  cros- 
aiul  luiv- 
idcr  sail, 
i)S(iuitoes 

;,  and  cn- 
n  with  a 
nninnd  of 
r>nv  Com- 
\\W  eggs, 
stopping 
ttlc  Hour 
selves  ill 
vfast:  ail 
nount  of 
prised  by 
f  at  this 

lin  afloat, 
which 


cni})ti(\s  into  I.ake  Wlnipog  l»y  a  succession  of 
rai)ids ;  sliot  down  tlioso  cascades  without  acci- 
dent, and  an-ived,  towanl  noon,  at  the  great 
rapid  Oui  nijnc  or  Winipt^g,  whicli  is  al)ont  four 


ni 


ih.'s  hjiiL!'.     We  diseinltai'kcil  Ikmv,  and  > 


worked  down  tlic  canoes.     At  the  fooi 


..on 

this 


rajtid,  wliicli  is  tlio  inlet  of  Winipcg,  we  i'ound  an 
old  Canadian  fish(.'i'nuin,  who  called  jiiinself  A'///i,'* 
of  the  Idli'r.  11(3  niidit  fairlv  stvle  hiuiself  kinu; 
of  the  lish,  which  are  al)undant  and  which  ho 
alone  cujowmI.  Ilavini''  made  a  boil,  and  in.'ualcd 
ourselves  with  excellent  sturu'con,  we  left  this 


old  man,  and  entered  the  great  lake  Winipc 
"which  appeared  to  me  like  a  sea  of  fresh  water. 
This  lake  is  now  too  well  known  to  need  a  par- 
ticular description:  I  will  content  myself  with 
saying  that  it  visil)ly  yields  in  extent  only  to 
Lake  Superior  and  Great  Slave  lake :  it  has  for 
tributaries  several  large  rivers,  and  amonu-  others 
the  Saskatchawine,  the  Winipeg,  in  the  cast ;  and 
Red  river  in  tlie  south  ;  and  empties  into  Hud- 
son's bay  by  the  Nelson,  N.  X.  E.,  and  the  Scu- 
ern,  E.  N.  E.     The  shores  which  it  bathes  are 


sikf- 


330 


FliANCIlEllE  S   VOYAOE. 


5   ;>...  ■;.• 


generally  very  low ;  it  appears  to  have  little 
depth,  and  is  dotted  with  avast  niiml)er  of  islands, 
lying  pre'ty  close  to  land.  We  reached  one 
called  Egg'  island,  wlience  it  was  necessary  to 
cross  to  the  south  to  reach  the  main ;  but  the 
wind  A.  as  so  violent  that  it  was  only  at  decline 
of  day  that  we  could  perform  the  passage.  We 
profited  by  the  calm,  to  coast  along  all  day  and 
a  part  of  the  niglii  of  the  2Gth  ;  but  to  pay  for  it, 
rem'^ined  in  camp  on  the  2Tth,  till  evening:  the 
■^^ind  not  suffering  us  to  proceed.  The  wind 
having  appeared  to  abate  somewhat  after  sunset, 
we  embarked,  but  were  soon  forced  to  land  again. 
On  the  28th,  we  passed  the  openings  of  several 
deep  bays,  and  the  isles  of  St.  Martin,  and 
camped  at  the  bottom  of  a  little  bay,  where  the 
mosquitoes  did  not  suffer  us  to  close  our  eyes  all 
night.  We  were  rejoiced  when  dawn  appeared, 
and  were  eager  to  embark,  to  free  ourselves  from 
these  inconvenient  guests.  A  calm  permitted  us 
tiiat  day  to  make  good  progress  witli  our  oars, 
and  we  camped  at  Buffalo  Strait.  Wo  saw  that 
day  two  Indian  wigwams. 


■_jm>tmuigimuisKgi- 


BAS  DR   LA   RIVIERE. 


331 


5  littlo 
slands, 
ed  one 
sary  to 
but  the 
decline 
c.     We 
day  and 
ly  for  it, 
ng:  the 
[le  wind 
•  sunset, 
id  again. 
'  several 
lUi^  and 
here  the 

eyes  all 
ppcared, 
ves  from 
uitted  us 
3ur  oars, 

saw  that 


Tlic  30th  brought  us  to  "Winipcg  river,  whicli 
we  ])cgan  to  ascend,  and  about  noon  reached 
Fort  Bas  de  la  Riviere.  This  trading  post  had 
more  the  air  of  a  large  and  well-cultivated  farm, 
than  of  a  fur  traders'  factory :  a  neat  and  ele- 
gant mansion,  built  on  a  slight  eminence,  and 
surrounded  with  barns,  stables,  storehouses,  etc., 
and  by  fields  of  barley,  peas,  oats,  and  potatoes, 
reminded  us  of  the  civilized  countries  which  wo 
had  left  so  long  ago.  Messrs.  Crcbassa  and 
Kennedy,  who  had  this  post  in  charge,  received 
us  with  all  possible  hospitality,  and  supplied  us 
with  all  the  political  news  whicli  had  been  learned 
through  the  arrival  of  canoes  from  Canada. 

They  also  informed  us  that  Messrs  M'Donald 
and  de  Rocheblave  had  passed,  a  few  days  be- 
fore our  arrival,  having  been  obliged  to  go  up 
Red  river  to  stop  the  effusion  of  blood,  which 
would  probably  have  tal^en  place  but  for  their 
intervention,  in  the  colony  founded  on  that  river 
by  the  earl  of  Selkirk.  Mr.  Miles  M'Donnell, 
the  governor  of  that  colony,  or  rather  of  the 
Assiniboyne  district,  had  issued  a  proclamation 


■'■  ■  ! 


■    f'V.  "f' 


'■> . 


332 


•RAXCIIERK  S   VOYAGE. 


■      1.   '!  '• 


ll 


foi'l)iddiiig-  all  persons  whomsoever,  to  send  pro- 
visions of  anv  kind  out  ot"  the  district.  The 
Hudson's  Bay  traders  had  conformed  to  this 
proclamation,  but  those  of  tlic  Northwest  Com- 
pany paid  no  attention  to  it,  thinking  it  illegal, 
and  had  sent  their  servants,  as  usual  to  get  pro- 
visions u})  the  river.  ]\Ir.  McDonnell  having 
heard  that  several  hundred  sacks  of  pemican* 
were  laid  up  in  a  storehouse  under  the  care  of  a 
Mr.  Pritchard,  sent  to  require  their  surrender : 
Pritchard  refused  to  deliver  them,  whereupon 
Mr.  McDonnell  had  them  carried  off  by  force. 
The  traders  who  winter  on  Little  Slave  lake, 
English  river,  the  Athabasca  country,  &c.,  learn- 
ing this,  and  being  aware  that  they  would  not 


t  <    .1 


*  Pemican,  of  wliioli  I  luive  already  spoken  sovoral  times,  is 
the  Iiiilian  name  for  the  dried  and  pounded  meat  whieh  the  na- 
tives sell  to  the  traders.  About  fifty  pounds  of  this  meat  is 
placed  in  a  trough  {nn  prand  vaisscau  fnit  d^ioi  trojic  d^arbre), 
and  ahout  an  "^  jUal  quantity  of  tallow  is  melted  and  jioured  over 
it;  it  is  thoroughly  mixed  into  one  miiss,  and  when  cold,  is  put 
up  in  hass  made  of  undresricd  hutValo  hide,  with  the  hair  outside, 
and  sewed  up  as  tiii^htly  as  ])ossiI)Ie.  The  meat  thus  impregnated 
with  tallow,  hardens,  and  will  keep  for  years.  It  is  eaten  with- 
out any  dlher  preparation  ;  but  sometimes  wild  pejus  or  dried 
berries  are  added,  which  render  the  flavor  more  agreeable. 


„   4 

■V 


THRExiTEXED   CONFLICT. 


333 


nd  pro- 
.      The 
to   this 
it  Com- 
lllcgal, 
get  pro- 
having 
icmican* 
;arc  of  a 
iTcnder : 
liercupon 
jy  force. 
ivG  lake, 
c.,  Icarn- 
ould  not 


xl  times,  18 
licli  tlio  na- 
is    meat   is 
inc  cVarhre), 
nyiired  over 
colli,  is  put 
liiir  outside, 
ni])n',cnatecl 
eutiMi  with- 
u's  or  dried 
able. 


find  their  usual  supply  at  Bns  ch  'a  Rivil^e^  re- 
solved to  go  and  recover  the  seized  i)rovisions  by 
force,   if    they   were    not   peacea1)ly   given   up. 
Things  were  in  this   position  when  Messrs.  de 
Rocheblave  and  ^M-Donald  arrived.     Thev  found 
the  Canadian  vojjaii^cnra  in  arms,  and  ready  to 
give  battle  to  the  colonists,  who  persisted  in  their 
refusal  to  surrender  tlie  bags  of  pemican.     The 
two  peacemakers  visited  the  governor,  and  hav- 
ing explained  to  him  the  situation  in  which  the 
traders  of  the  Nortliwest  Com})any  would  fnid 
tliemselves,  ]>v  tiie  want  of  necessarv  provisions 
to  enable  them  to  transport  their  peltries  to  Fort 
William,  and  tlie  exasperation  of  tlieir  men,  who 
saw  no  other  alternative  for  them,  but  to  get  pos- 
session of  those  provisions  or  to  perish  of  hunger, 
requested  him  to   surrender   the  same  without 
delay.     Mr.  McDonnell,  on  his  part,  pointed  out 
the  misery  to  wliich  the  colonists  would  bo  re- 
duced bj   a  failure  in  the  supply  of  food.     In 
consequence  of  tliese  mutual  representations,  it 
was  agreed  that  one  half  of  the  pemican  should 
be  restored,  and  the  other  half  remain  for  the 


"•  mSi  ■  ■  ^r '  '^         '   -~ 

u  «r  ■  1^      ■    ^■'■'  ''■  ^ 


r^>. 


i  '  >  ■. 


,■.•-  *■ 


1'^  ■  '., 


I  > '- 


I  ! 


334 


franchere's  voyage. 


use  of  the  colonists.  Thus  was  arranged,  with- 
out bloodshed,  the  first  difficulty  which  occurred 
between  the  rival  coi.  panics  of  the  Northwest, 
and  of  Hudson's  Bay. 

Having  spent  the  1st  of  July  in  repairing  our 
canoes,  we  re-embarked  on  the  2d,  and  continued 
to  ascend  Winipeg  river,  called  also  White  rivery 
on  account  of  the  great  number  of  its  cascades, 
which  being  very  near  each  other,  offer  to  the 
sight  an  almost  continuous  foam.  We  made  that 
day  twenty-seven  portages,  all  very  short.  On 
the  3d,  and  4t .,  we  made  nine  more,  and  arrived 
on  the  5th,  at  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  This 
lake  takes  its  name  from  the  great  number  of 
woody  islands  with  which  it  is  dotted.  Our 
guide  pointed  out  to  me  one  of  these  isles,  telling 
me  that  a  Jesuit  father  had  said  mass  there,  and 
that  it  was  the  most  remote  spot  to  which  those 
missionaries  had  ever  penetrated.  We  encamped 
on  one  of  the  islands.  The  next  day  the  wind 
did  not  allow  us  to  make  much  progress.  On 
the  7th,  we  gained  the  entrance  of  Rainy  Lake 
river,      I  do  not  remember  ever  to  have  seen 


:  -r 


MOSQUITOES. 


33 


60 


with- 

! 

urrcd 

iWGSt, 

ig  our 

1 

tinucd 

•  river^ 

scadcs, 

to  the 

m 

dc  that 

I't.     On 

^^' 

arrived 

^Bcj 

.     This 

v^ 

aiber  of 

.      Our 

F 

,  telliug 

3re,  and 

;h  thoso 

icamped 

le  wind 

iss.     On 

yiU  Lake 

,vo  seen 

elsewhere  so  luciuy  mosquitoes  as  on  the  banks 
of  this  river.  Having  landed  near  a  little  rapid 
to  lighten  the  canoes,  we  had  the  misfortune,  in 
getting  through  the  brush,  to  dislodge  these  in- 
sects from  under  the  leaves  where  they  had  taken 
refuge  from  the  rain  of  the  night  before ;  they 
attached  themselves  to  us,  followed  us  into  the 
canoes,  and  .tormented  us  all  the  remainder  of 
the  day. 

On  the  8th,  at  sunset,  we  reached  Rainy  Lake 
House.  This  fort  is  situated  about  a  mile  from 
a  considerable  rapid.  "Wo  saw  here  cultivated 
fields  and  domestic  animals,  such  as  horses,  oxen, 
cows,  &c.  The  port  is  a  depot  for  the  wintering 
parties  of  the  Athabasca,  and  others  still  more 
remote,  who  bring  to  it  their  peltries  and  return 
from  it  with  their  outfits  of  merchandise.  Mr. 
John  Dease,  to  whoso  charge  the  place  had  been 
confided,  received  us  in  the  most  friendly  manner 
possible ;  and  after  having  made  an  excellent 
supper,  we  danced  a  part  of  the  evening. 

We  took  leave  of  Mr.  Dease  on  the  lOth,  well 
provided   for   tlie  journey,   and   paf??ing   round 


nf 


.Ki 


•  !'    ,- 


U 


i%- 


I;?:; 


I-^- 


336 


FRANCHERE  S  VOYAGE. 


Rainy  Lake  falls,  and  then  traversing  the  lake 
itself,  whicli  I  estimated  to  be  forty  miles  long, 
we  encamped  at  the  entrance  of  a  small  river. 
On  the  next  day  we  pursued  our  way,  now  thrid- 
ding  streams  impeded  with  wild  rice,  which  ren- 
dered our  progress  difficult,  now  traversing  little 
lakes,  now  passing  straits  where  wo  scarcely 
found  water  to  float  our  canoes.  On  the  13tli, 
we  encamped  near  Dog'  Portage  (^Portage  des 
chiens)^  where,  from  not  having  followed  the  ad- 
vice of  Mr.  Dease,  wlio  liad  counselled  us  to  take 
along  a  bag  of  pcmican,  we  found  ourselves  ab- 
solutely without  food. 


KAMINISTIQUIA    FALLS. 


037 


CHAPTER  XXXU. 

Arrival  at  Fort  William. —  Di'scriptii)ii  of  ilic  Fort. —  News  from 

tliP  Rivor  Coliiinliiii. 

Starvixg  men  are  early-risers.  AVe  set  out 
on  the  14th  before  day,  and  effected  the  |)ortage, 
which  is  long  and  diHicult.  At  tlie  foot  of  the 
rapid  we  found  a  soi't  of  restaurant  or  cabaret^ 
kept  by  a  man  named  Boudier.  We  treated  the 
men  to  a  little  can  de  vie,  and  breakfasted  on 
some   detestable   sausages,   }iois(.ned    witli    salt. 

After  this  wretched  repast,  we  set  out  again, 

and  passed  toward  noon,  the  Movntain  Portag-e. 

Here  the  river  Kaminhtiqiiia  flings  itself  over  a 

rock  of  immense  height,  an:!  forms  a  fall  scarcely 

less  curious  to  se(^  tluiii  tluit  of  Niagara,     liclfiw, 

the  succession  of  falls  and  rnpids  i<  constant,  so 

that  we  made  no  fewer  than  thirty-six  portages 

15 


;f  ^^>' 


•I,-' 


338 


franchere's  voyagf. 


v';. 


f" 


in  >' 


11.' 


:i^, 


in  the  course  of  the  day.  Nevertheless  wo  pur- 
sued our  laborious  way  with  good  clieer,  and 
without  a  murmur  from  our  Canadian  boatmen, 
who  kept  their  spirits  up  by  singing  their  voi/a- 
geur  songs.  At  last,  at  about  nine  o'clock  in 
the  evening,  wo  arrived  at  Fort  William. 

Fort  William  is  situated  on  Lake  Superior,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Kaministiquia  river,  about 
forty-five  miles  nortli  of  old  Grand  Portage. 
It  was  built  in  1805,  when  the  two  rival  Cana- 
dian companies  were  united,  and  was  named  in 
honor  of  Mr.  (now  the  Honorable)  William 
M'Gillivray,  principal  agent  of  the  Northwest 
Company.  The  proprietors,  perceiving  that  the 
old  fort  of  Grand  Portage  was  on  the  territory 
claimed  by  the  American  government,  resolved 
to  demolish  it  and  build  another  on  the  British 
territory.  No  site  appeared  more  advantageous 
than  the  present  for  the  purposes  intended ;  the 
river  is  deep,  of  easy  access,  and  offers  a  safe 
harbor  for  shipping.  It  is  true  they  had  to  con- 
tend with  all  the  difficulties  consequent  on  a  low 
and  swampy  soil ;  but  by  incredible  labor  and 


t^f^^^^ 


FORT    WILLIAM. 


330 


perseverance  tlicy  succeeded  in  drainino-  the 
marshes  and  reducing  the  loose  and  yielding  soil 
to  solidity. 

Fort  William  lias  really  the  appearance  of  a 
fort,  with  its  palisade  fifteen  feet  high,  and  that 
of  a  pretty  village,  from  the  number  of  edilices  it 
encloses.  In  the  middle  of  a  spacious  sipiaro 
rises  a  large  building  elegantly  constructed, 
though  of  wood,  with  a  long  piazza  or  portico, 
raised  about  live  feet  from  the  ground,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  balcony,  extending  along  tlie  whole 
front.  In  tlic  centre  is  a  saloon  or  hall,  sixty 
feet  in  length  by  thirty  in  width,  decorated  with 
several  pieces  of  painting,  and  some  portraits  of 
the  leading  partners.  It  is  in  this  hall  that  the 
agents,  partners,  clerks,  interpreters,  and  guides, 
take  their  meals  together,  at  different  tables. 
At  each  extremity  of  the  apartment  arc  two 
rooms ;  two  of  these  are  destined  for  tlie  two 
principal  agents ;  the  otlier  two  to  the  steward 
and  his  department.  The  kitclien  and  servants' 
rooms  are  in  the  basement.  On  cither  side  of 
this  edifice,  is  another  of  the  same  extent,  but  of 


340 


FRANnnaiK's.  VOYAGE. 


J. 
\      !■. 

/!■■■■      ■ 


I) 


I*  *  ■: '  * 


{ • 


:■  I     \ 


1  ':' 

Si    -  - 

t  ■  '•■■. 

^ 

less  elevation  ;  tlicy  are  ea(fli  divided  Ity  a  corri- 
dor riiniiinu'  tiiruiiuli  its  leit'iili,  and  contain  each, 
a  dozen  pretty  bed-rooms.  One  is  destined  for 
tlie  wintering-  partners,  the  other  ibr  tlic  clerks. 
On  tlio  east  of  the  sipiare  is  anotlier  bnilding 
similar  to  tlie  last  two,  and  intended  ibr  the 
same  use,  and  a  wareliousc  wliere  the  furs  are 
inspected  and  rej)acked  Tor  sliipment.  In  the 
rear  of  tliese,  are  the  lodu-in<i--]iouse  of  tlie  t>:uidcs, 
another  fur-Ava rehouse,  and  Hnally,  a  powder 
magazine.  The  last  is  of  stone,  and  has  a  roof 
covered  with  tin.  At  the  anji'le  is  a  sort  of  has- 
tion,  or  look-out  place,  commanding  a  view  of 
the  lake.  On  the  west  side  is  seen  a  range  of 
buildings,  some  of  which  serve  for  stores,  and 
others  for  workshoj)s  ;  there  is  one  for  tlic  equip- 
ment of  tlic  men,  another  for  the  litting  out  of 
the  canoes,  one  for  the  retail  of  goods,  another 
where  they  sell  liquors,  bread,  pork,  butter,  <fec., 
and  wliere  a  treat  is  given  to  the  travellers  who 
arrive.  Tliis  consists  in  a  white  loaf,  half  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  a  gill  of  rum.  The  voi/a- 
geurs   give    this  tavern   the   name   of    Gantinp. 


'  .^*'. 


<    :■..* 


mj 


THE   KSTAHLrsHMKXT. 


341 


salope.  ]Jdiin(l  jill  tlii.s  is  anotlicr  rniiiro,  wliorc 
wc  fmd  tlio  couiitliifj-liuuso,  a  tiiic  S(|uai'C  build- 
ing, and  woll-liiilitcd  ;  anotlior  stoii'liouso  of 
stone,  tin-roofed  ;  and  a  jai/,  not  less  necessary 
than  the  rest.  The  vo/jan'CHrs  give  it  tlic  name 
0^ pot  an  bcurre  —  the  butter-tub.  Beyond  theso 
we  discover  the  shops  of  tlie  carpenter,  the  coo})- 
er,  the  tiusniitli,  tlie  Idacksmitii,  S^c. ;  and  S})a- 
cious  yards  and  sheds  for  the  shelter,  reparation, 
and  construction  of  canoes.  Near  tlie  uate  of 
the  fort,  Avliich  is  on  the  south,  are  the  ({uarters 
of  the  pliysician,  and  those  of  the  chief  clerk. 
Over  the  gate  is  a  guard-house. 

As  the  river  is  deep  at  its  entrance,  the  com- 
pany has  had  a  wharf  constructed,  extending  tlie 
whole  length  of  the  fort,  for  tlie  discharge  of  the 
vessels  which  it  keejjS  on  Lake  Superior,  wheth- 
er to  transport  its  furs  from  Fort  William  to  the 
Saut  Ste.  3Iarie,  or  merchandise  and  provisions 
from  Saut  Ste.  Marie  to  Fort  William.  The 
land  behind  the  fort  and  on  both  sides  of  it,  is 
cleared  and  under  tillage.  We  saw  barley,  ])cas, 
and  oats,  which  had  a  very  fmc  api.>earance.     At 


^m 

■:.i 

* 

.'    if- 


342 


FRANniEUF's  VOYACE. 


lyvi, 


u 


i  I 


r^) 


i 

1 

.  ^  ■  '• . 

} 

7H 

'■\ 

I 

'.^^ 

''. 

■;'  i'*^  ■■ 

/T^^flSD 

c 

V- 

^.-V 

! 

•  ■  ■■  : 

;-.«' 

ti 

,.'!/■> 

■■.«■, 

5    •    C.  . 


thn  nnd  of  the  cloarincr  is  tlio  l)urvinGr-c:round. 
There  are  also,  on  llio  opposite  l)aiik  of  tlie  river, 
a  certain  luiinher  of  lon^-houscs,  all  inhabited  by 
old  Canadian  voyaij^eHra,  worn  out  in  the  service 
of  the  company,  without  having-  enriched  tlieni- 
sclvcs.  Married  to  women  of  the  countrv,  and 
incumbered  with  large  families  of  half-l>rccd 
cliildren,  these  men  prefer  to  cultivate  a  littlo 
Indian  corn  and  potatoes,  and  to  fish,  for  a  sub- 
sistence, ratlier  than  return  to  tlieir  native  dis- 
tricts, to  give  their  relatives  and  former  acquain- 
tance certain  i)roofs  of  their  misconduct  or  their 
imprudence. 

Fort  William  is  tlie  grand  dei)6t  of  the  Xorth- 
west  Company  for  their  interior  posts,  and  the 
general  rendezvous  of  the  partners.  The  agents 
from  Montreal  and  the  wintering  partners  assem- 
ble here  every  summer,  to  receive  the  returns  of 
the  respective  outfits,  prepare  for  the  o})erations 
of  tlie  ensuing  season,  and  discuss  the  general 
interests  of  their  association.  The  greater  part 
of  them  were  assembled  at  the  time  of  our  arri- 
val.     The  wintcrin«:  hands  who  are  to  return 


^.^J*..  -.rf 


'»!#»■?  ^t/ 


k! 


MAN\;i:UR3    DE   LAItD. 


848 


rrouiid. 

0  river, 

itcd  by 

.service 

(1  tlieni- 

trv,  and 

ilt-brcod 

a  littlo 

11*  a  svili- 

tive  dis- 

acquain- 

or  their 

.0  Xorth- 
aiid  the 


le  agents 


I's  asscni- 
3turns  of 
pcrations 
!  general 
ater  part 
our  arri- 
;o  return 


with  their  cuiployern,  pass  also  a  great  part  of 
the  summer  iu;re  ;  they  furm  a  great  encampment 
on  tlie  west  side  of  the  fort,  outside  tlie  ])alisade9. 
Those  wlio  engage  at  ^lontrcal  to  go  no  further 
than  Fort  William  or  Rdin//  lake,  and  who  do 
not  winter,  occu[)y  yet  another  s})ace,  on  the  east 
Bide.  Tiie  winterers,  or  hircrnaiifs,  give  to 
these  last  the  name  of  ninn (vein's  de  lard.,  or 
pork-caters.  They  are  also  cuIKmI  rotncrs-and' 
g'oers.  One  perceives  an  astonishing  diHerenco 
between  these  two  camps,  whicli  are  composed 
sometimes  of  tliree  or  (bur  hundred  men  each ; 
that  of  the  pork-eaters  is  always  dirty  and  dis- 
orderly, while  that  of  the  winterers  is  clean  and 
neat. 

To  clear  its  land  and  improve  its  property,  the 
company  inserts  a  clause  in  the  engagement  of 
all  who  enter  its  service  as  canoe-men,  that  they 
shall  work  for  a  certain  number  of  days  during 
their  stav  at  Fort  William.  It  is  thus  that  it 
has  cleared  and  drained  the  environs  of  the  fort, 
and  has  erected  so  nianv  fine  buildinirs.  But 
when  a  hand   has  once  worked  the  stipulated 


!|i: 


,  .».. 

•;.;•) 


Jv.-;,, 


■  :    i 


H, 


,1    ■  '. 


'    ! 


i*    V 


j? 


■» 


344 


FEANCIIERE  S   VOYAGK. 


number  of  clays,  he  is  for  ever  after  exempt,  even 
if  ho  remain  in  the  service  twenty  or  tliirty  years, 
and  should  come  down  to  the  fort  every  summer. 

They  received  us  very  courteously  at  Fort 
William,  and  I  perceived  by  the  reception  given 
to  myself  in  particular,  that  thanks  to  the 
Chinook  dialect  of  which  I  was  sufficiently  mas- 
ter, they  would  not  have  asked  better  than  to 
give  me  employment,  on  advantageous  terms. 
But  I  felt  a  great  deal  more  eagerness  to  arrive 
in  Montreal,  than  desire  to  return  to  the  River 
Columbia. 

A  few  days  after  we  reached  Fort  William, 
Mr.  Keith  made  his  appearance  there  from  Fort 
George,  or  Astoria,  with  the  news  of  the  arrival 
of  clie  "  Isaac  Todd"  in  the  Columbia  river. 
This  vessLd,  which  was  a  dull  sailor,  had  been 
kept  back  a  long  time  l»y  contrary  winds  in 
doubling  Capo  Horn,  and  had  never  been  able  to 
rejoin  the  vessels-of-war,  hor  consorts,  from  which 
she  was  then  separate(l.  When  she  reached  the 
rendezvoHS  at  the  island  of  Juan  Fernandez, 
finding   that  the  three   '  liips-of-war  had    sailed. 


.3       .'' 


1 


^4(   '    ., 


ISAAC  TODD. 


Uo 


t,  even 


years, 
imincr. 
t  Fort 
I  given 
to  the 
iy  nias- 
han  to 
terms, 
arrive 
J  River 


i^illiam, 
)m  Fort 

arrival 
river. 

(1  been 
inds   in 

able  to 
n  which 

icd  the 

uaiidez, 
sailed, 


the  captain  and  passengers,  as  they  wci-.'  sliort 
of  provisions,  determined  to  range  the  coast. 
Entering  the  hi.rl)or  o^  Jlonfcrc//,*  on  the  coast 
of  California,  i'>.  order  to  obtain  provisions,  they 
learned  that  tlicre  was  an  English  vcssel-of-war 
in  distress,  in  the  l)ay  of  San  Frdnrisco.f  Tney 
repaired  tliithcr  accordingly,  and  fonnd,  to  tlieir 
great  surprise,  that  it  was  the  sloop  Rdcrooti. 
This  vessel,  in  getting  out  of  the  River  Columbia, 
had  touelied  on  tlie  bar,  with  sucli  violence,  that 
a  part  of  her  false  keel  was  carried  away  ;  and 
slie  liad  witli  difhcully  made  ►'i^an  Francisco,  with 
seven  feet  of  water  in  the  hold,  althougli  her 
crew  had  been  constantly  at  the  })umps.  Cap- 
tain Black,  finding  it  impossible  to  repair  his 
ship,  had  decided  to  abandon  her,  and  to  cross 
the  continent  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  tlicnce  to 
reach  some  of  the  Brit'sh  West  India  islands. 
However,   on   the   arrival   of  the   Isaac   Todd, 

*  A  Spanish  mission  or  presidency,  in  !tbuul  tlic  l}()th  dogreo  of 
latitude. 

t  AnotliiT  Spanisli  jnrsidency,  in  aljout  (lie  38lii  degree  of  lat- 
itude, and  the  fust  Ruropejui  ostahlisliini-nt  to  he  met  witli  south 
of  the  Columbia.  [These  now  obsolete  noteg  are  interesting  na 
indicative  of  iho  period  wlien  tliey  were  written. —  Eu.] 

1;V 


346 


fraxchere's  voyage. 


h>^  if 


means  were  found  to  careen  the  vessel  and  repair 
the  damage.  The  Isaac  Todd  tlien  pursued  her 
voyage  and  entered  the  Columbia  on  the  17th  of 
April,  thirteen  months  after  her  departui«i  from 
England. 


11 


I  it 


■  -'  ■  /v* 


HOME-BOUND. 


847 


CHAPTER  XXYIII. 

Departure  from  Fort  William. —  Navigation  on  Lake  Superior.— 
Michipicoton  Bay. —  Moetiug  a  Ciiuoo. —  Batchawainon  Bay.— 
An-ival  at  Saut  Ste  Marif. —  Oocurreucrs  there. —  Doparture. — 
Lake  Huron. —  French  River. —  Lake  Nipissinp. —  Ottawa  Riv- 
er.—  Kettle  Fulls. —  Ridcau  River. —  liOitg-S^iut. —  Arrival  in 
Montreal —  Conclusion. 

On  the  20th  of  July,  in  tlic  evening,  Mr.  D. 
Stuart  notified  mo  tliat  lie  should  start  the  next 
morning  for  Montreal,  in  a  light  canoe.  I  imme- 
diately wrote  to  my  relatives :  bu^  .he  next 
morning  Mr.  Stuart  told  me  that  I  was  to  be  my- 
self the  bearer  of  my  letters,  by  embarking 
with  him.  I  got  ready  my  cfTects,  and  toward 
evening  we  quitted  Fort  William,  willi  fourteen 
stout  voyageurs  to  ma  i  our  large  canoe,  and 
were  soon  floating  on  the  bosom  of  the  largest 
body  of  fresh  water  on  the  surface  of  the  globe. 
We  counted  six  passengcr.-j,  namely,  Messrs.  D. 


'iff-,  •• 

•i^^v  .... 


,t.4 


f 


.;*i 


fe 


■fcs- 


I*. 


.  h  J 


348 


FRAXCIIERE  S    VOYACE. 


Stuart,  D.  ]\[-Kenzie,  J.  ^f  Donald,  J.  Clarke, 
myself,  and  a  littlo  (I'irl  of  clg'lit  or  nine  years, 
who  came  from  IvUdonan,  on  Rod  r'n'or.  AVe 
passed  the  fii-st  niji'ht  on  one  of  the  islands  in 
Thunder  hr/t/,  so  named  on  account  of  the  fre- 
quent storms,  accompanied  witli  li<ihtning  and 
thunder,  "wliich  burst  over  it  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year.  On  tlie  22d  and  •2-3d,  wa  continued 
to  range  the  southern  coast  of  Lake  Superior. 
The  navigation  of  this  superi)  lake  would  be  ex- 
tremely aixreeablo  l)ut  for  tlie  thick  fo<i-s  whicli 
reign  during  a  part  of  the  day,  and  do  not  permit 
a  rapid  progress.  On  tlio  24th,  we  dined  at  a 
small  trading  establisliment  called  Le  Plr,  wliero 
we  had  excellent  fish. 

On  the  2Gth,  we  crossed  Micliipicoto,.  hay, 
which,  at  its  entrance,  may  be  nine  miles  Avide, 
and  twenty  fathoms  deep.  As  we  were  nearing 
the  eastern  point,  wo  met  a  small  canoe,  having 
on  board  Captain  ^[-Cargo,  and  the  ciew  of  one 
of  the  schooners  owned  by  the  company,  ^[r. 
M' Cargo  informed  us  that  he  had  just  escaped 
from  Saut  Ste.  Marie^  whither  the  Americans  had 


•J,-je."™%»(eu„J«ii* 


UNLUCKY   OMISSIOX. 


8-i9 


sent  a  detachment  of  one  liimdrcd  and  fifty  men ; 
and  that  liaving  ])een  obliged  to  abandon  his 
schooner,  he  had  set  fire  to  her.  In  conseqnence 
of  this  news  it  was  resolved  that  the  canoe  on 
which  we  were  proceeding,  eliould  retnrn  to  Fort 
William.  I  embarked,  witli  ^Ir.  8tiiart  and  two 
men,  in  Captain  M'Cargo's  canoe,  ^\hilo  lie  and 
his  crew  took  our  idaces.  In  the  haste  and  con- 
fusion  of  this  exchange,  which  was  made  on  the 
lake,  tliey  gave  us  a  ham,  a  little  tea  and  sugar, 
and  a  bag  containing  al)out  twenty-five  pounds  of 
flour,  but  forgot  entirely  a  kettle,  knives,  forks, 
and  so  on,  all  articles  which  Mr.  M'Cargo  had 
not  tin  0  to  take  when  he  left  SaiU  Ste.  Marie. 
We  subsisted  miserably  in  consequence  for  two 
days  and  a  half  that  we  continued  to  coast  the 
lake  before  reaching  any  post.  We  moistened  in 
the  bag  a  little  flour,  and  having  kneaded  it, 
made  cakes,  which  we  baked  on  flat  stones  by 
our  camp  fire. 

On  the  29th,  we  reached  Batchawainon,  where 
we  found  some  women,  who  prepared  us  food 
and  received  us  well.     It  is  a  poor  little  post, 


Ml-  ■' . 

m  ■ 

■:,V^  '■  ■  ■ 

•r^'    "■■■  ■ 

.•'>-■■ 


•i?- 


.1-../  Ji 


f 


350 


FRANCIIKRE  S   VOYAGE. 


situated  at  tlio  bottom  of  a  sandy  cove,  which 
offers  nothing  agreeable  to  the  eye.  ^^Fr.  Fred- 
eric Goedike,  who  resided  here,  was  gone  to 
see  what  liad  taken  phice  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie. 
Ho  returned  tlie  next  day,  and  told  us  tliat  tho 
Americans  had  come,  with  a  force  of  ono 
hundred  and  fifty  men,  under  the  command  of 
Major  Holmes;  and  that  after  having  pillaged 
that  they  all  considered  worth  taking,  of  tho 
property  of  the  N  W.  Company  and  that  of  a 
Mr.  JohnHton,  they  had  set  lire  to  the  houses, 
warehouses,  &c.,  belonging  to  the  company  and 
to  that  gentleman,  and  retired,  without  molesting 
any  other  person.*  Our  canoe  arrived  from  Fort 
William  in  the  cvenincr,  with  that  of  Mr.  M'Gil* 
livray ;  and  on  the  morrow  we  all  repaired  to 
Saut  Ste.  Marie,  where  we  saw  the  ruins  which 
the  enemy  had  left.  The  houses,  stores,  and 
saw-mills  of  the   company  were   still  smoking. 

*  The  N.  W.  Comjiaiiy  having  niisod  a  regiment  composed  of 
their  own  servants,  and  known  as  the  vo!/ap;cur  corps,  and  having 
also  instigated  to  war,  and  armed,  tlie  Indian  tribes,  over  which 
they  had  influence,  had  brought  on  themselves  this  act  of  retaliap 
tion.  Mr.  Johnston  alao  had  engaged  actively  in  the  war  against 
the  United  Stato«. 


If.  J 


^-?S-; 


SAUT  STE.   MARTE. 


The  schooner  was  at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  ;  tlio 
Americans  had  run  licr  down,  but  she  grounded 
on  a  ledge  of  rocks,  whence  they  coukl  not  dis- 
lodge her,  and  so  they  had  burnt  her  to  tlie 
water's  edge. 

Lc  Siiut  de  Sic.  Marie ^  or  as  it  is  shortly 
called,  Saiit  Stc.  Marie,  is  a  rapid  at  tlie  outlet  of 
Lake  Sui)crior,  and  may  be  five  hundred  or  six 
hundred  yards  wide  ;  its  length  may  be  estimated 
at  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  the  descent  of 
the  water  at  about  twenty  feet.  At  the  lower 
extremity  the  river  widens  to  aljout  a  mile,  and 
here  there  are  a  certain  number  of  houses.  The 
north  bank  belongs  to  Great  Britain ;  the  south- 
ern to  the  United  States.  It  was  on  the  Ameri- 
can side  that  Mr.  Johnston  lived.  Before  the 
war  he  was  collector  of  the  port  for  the  American 
government.  On  the  same  side  resided  a  Mr. 
Nolin,  with  his  family,  consisting  of  three  half- 
breed  boys  and  as  many  girls,  one  of  whom  was 
passably  pretty.  lie  Avas  an  old  Indian  trader, 
and  his  house  and  furniture  showed  signs  of  his 
former  prosperity.     On  the  British  side  we  found 


«*♦ 


1- 


•«-<•• 

■'"'•■v:' 


■':'^i-.*i^j 


; ,  (■ 


i^-: 


i'i 


■r' 


H-.:r':^ 


352 


FU A N<  i f CRE's  VO YAGK. 


Mr.  Charles  "Ri-inatinucr,  wlio  liad  a  ])rctty  estab- 
lisluncnt:  lie  dwelt  temporarily  in  a  liousc  that 
belonged  to  Noliii,  but  ho  was  building  another 
of  stone,  very  elegant,  and  had  just  hnislied  a 
grist  mill.  lie  thouglit  that  the  last  would  lead 
the  inliabitants  to  sow  more  u-rain  tlian  thev  did. 
Tlicso  inlial)itants  are  prineipally  old  Canadian 
boatmen,  married  to  hali-breed  or  Indian  women. 
The  fi'.ii  ailbrd  them  subsisteneo  during  the 
grcai  1)0  r.  oC  the  year,  and  ])rovided  tlicy  secure 
potatoes  enough  to  carry  them  tlirough  llic  re- 
mainder, tliey  arc  content.  It  is  to  be  regretted 
that  these  people  are  not  more  industrious,  for 
the  land  is  very  fertile. 

On  the  1st  of  August,  an  express  was  sent  to 
Michiliniackinac  (Mackinaw)  to  inform  the  com- 
mandant thereof  what  had  happened  at  Saut  Ste^ 
Marie.  While  expecting  the  return  of  the  mes- 
senger, we  put  ourselves  in  a  state  of  defence,  in 
case  that  by  chance  the  Americans  should  make 
another  irruption.  Tlie  thing  was  not  improba- 
ble, for  according  to  some  expressions  wliich  fell 
from  one  of  their  number  who  spoke  French, 


1  v^v"'? 


i' 

'%•■  t 

"  W- 


THE    EXEMY    IX    FOIIf'E. 


B53 


their  objects  was  to  capture  the  furs  of  the 
Nortliwcst  C()iii])any,  wliich  were  expected  to  ar- 
rive shortlv  from  the  interior.  We  invited  some 
Indians,  wlio  were  camped  on  Pine  Pointy  at 
Some  distance  from  the  *SVu//,  to  lielp  us  in  case 
of  need ;  wliich  they  promised  to  do.  ^[ean- 
while  we  liad  no  provisions,  as  evcrytliing  had 
been  carried  off  l>v  the  American  forces,  and 
Avere  ol)lig"ed  to  sul)sist  on  sucli  brook  trout  as 
we  couh.l  take  with  liook  and  line,  and  on  wild 
raspberries. 

On  the  4th,  the  express  returns,  d,  A/iihout  hav- 
ing been  able  to  accomi)lish  liis  mission :  he  had 
found  the  island  of  Mackinrw  so  completely 
blockaded  l)y  the  enemy,  tlmt  it  was  impossible 
to  reach  it,  witliout  running  the  greatest  risk  of 
being  made  prisoner. 

On  the  12th,  we  lieard  distinctly  the  dis- 
charges of  artillery  which  our  people  were  firing 
oflf  at  Michilimackinac,  althougli  the  distance  was 
nearly  sixty  miles.  We  thouglit  it  was  an  at- 
tempt of  the  enemy  to  retake  that  post,  but  wo 
afterward  learned  that  it  was  only  a  royal  salute 


I  ' 


i^ 


•» 


.•>'■• 


■■■,  »■  •■ 

;■*   ■■ 
.1  ■■ 


,1  •,. 


l>' 


V 


.(■ 


'i    t       ' 


I  - 
I-  > 


y.' 


m 


!l 


.s^i;. 


354 


FUANCIIKaK.S   VOYAGE. 


in  honor  of  the  Itirthduy  of  tlie  prhice  regent. 
Wo  learned,  however,  durhig  our  stay  at  Saut 
Ste.  Marie,  tliat  the  Americans  had  really  mado 
a  descent  upon  the  island,  but  were  compelled  to 
retire  with  a  considerable  loss. 

On  tlio  19th,  some  of  the  partners  arrived  from 
Fort  William,  preceding-  the  flotilla  which  was 
coming  down  richly  laden  with  furs.  Tliey  sent 
on  Mr.  Decoisxne  in  a  litilit  canoe,  with  letters 
to  Montreal,  to  order  provisions  to  meet  this 
brigade. 

On  the  21st,  the  canoe  on  which  I  was  a  pas- 
senger, was  sent  to  the  mouth  of  French  river, 
to  observe  the  motions  of  the  enemy.  The  route 
lay  between  a  range  of  low  islands,  and  a  shelvy 
beach,  very  monotonous  and  dreary.  "Wo  re- 
mained at  the  entrance  of  the  aforesaid  river  till 
the  25th,  when  the  fleet  of  loaded  canoes,  forty- 
seven  in  number,  arrived  there.  Tlie  value  of 
the  furs  which  they  carried  could  not  be  esti- 
mated at  less  than  a  million  of  dollars :  an  im- 
portant prize  f(n'  tlie  Americans,  if  they  could 
have  laid  their  hands  upon  it.     We  wore  threo 


I 


THE   DAXGER   PAST. 


355 


hundred  and  tliirty-fivc  Aon,  all  well  armed;  a 
large  camp  was  Ibrmed,  with  a  l)rea.st-work  of 
fur-packs,  and  we  kept  watch  all  night.  The 
next  morning  we  began  to  ascend  French  river, 
and  were  soon  out  of  I'cach  of  the  dreaded  foe. 
Frencli  river  flows  from  the  N.  E.  and  empties 
into  Lake  Huron,  about  one  liundred  and  twenty 
miles  from  Saut  Ste.  Marie.  We  reached  Lake 
Nipissing,  of  wliich  it  is  the  outlet,  the  same 
evening,  and  encam})ed.  We  crossed  that  lake 
on  the  2Tth,  made  a  number  of  portages,  and  en- 
camped again,  not  far  from  Mallaioan. 

On  the  28th  we  entered,  at  an  early  hour,  the 
river  Ottawa,  and  encamped,  in  the  evening, 
at  the  Portag'e  dcs  deux  Joachims.  This  is  a 
grand  river,  1)ut  obstructed  by  many  falls  and 
rapids  on  its  way  to  join  the  St.  Lawrence ; 
wliich  caused  us  to  make  many  portages,  and  so 
we  arrived  on  the  31st  at  Kettle  falls. 

The  rock  which  here  arrests  the  course  of  the 
Ottawa,  extends  from  shore  to  shore,  and  so 
completely  cuts  olY  tlie  waters,  that  at  the  time  we 
passed  none  was  seen  falling  over,  but  sinking  by 


»* 


•V?  f 

'-••hi. 

}ir 

•r.f,"    ■ 


I    * ', 


Vi 


■*.'■.'     K 


t-/  ■ 


H''^' 
•M 


if 


>  ■'-? 


856 


rUANCUKIiK  S    V()YA(Ji:. 


sul)tui'rimoaii  cliiiniicls,  or  lissures  in  tlio  rock,  it 
boil(3(l  up  l>elow,  from  seven  or  oii^hL  (lillerent 
0])cnui'is,  not  unlike  water  in  a  Init'e  caldron, 
wlience  the  lir.-<t  explorers  of  tiie  country  ^ave  it 
the  name  of  Chdinllirc  or  Caldron  ialis.  ^Ir. 
P.  "Writ^ht  resided  in  this  ])lacc,  where  he  had  a 
fine  estaljlishnient  and  a  great  number  of  men 
employed  in  cultivathig  the  land,  and  getting  out 
lumber. 

We  left  the  ChaucUhres  a  little  before  sun- 
nt,  and  passed  very  soon  the  confluence  of  the 
Rideaa  or  Curtain  river.  This  river,  which 
casts  itself  into  the  Ottawa  over  a  rock  twenty- 
five  by  thirty  feet  high,  is  divided  in  the  middle 
of  the  fall  by  a  little  island,  which  parts  the 
waters  into  two  white  sheets,  resembling  a  double 
curtain  open  in  the  middle  and  spreading  out  l)e- 
low.  The  coup  cVwil  is  really  picturesque ;  the 
rays  of  the  setting  sun,  which  struck  the  waters 
obliquely  as  we  passed,  heiglitencd  exceedingly 
their  Ijeauty,  and  rendered  it  worthy  of  a  pencil 
more  skilful  than  mine. 

We  voyaged  till  midnight,  Avhcn  we  stopped  to 


MOXTIIKAL. 


857 


let  our  moil  take  a  little  repose.  Tliis  rest  was 
only  i'or  two  hoard.  At  sunrise  on  the  Idt  Scj)- 
teniljor,  we  roaeliod  Lon::;'- Stint,  "wliere,  having 
procured  guides,  we  passed  that  ilanirtu'ous  rap- 
id, and  set  loot  o!i  shorts  near  tht;  dwolling-liouse 
of  a  Mr.  M'Donoll,  who  sent  us  miliv  and  fruits 
for  our  l»reakfasL.  Toward  noun  we  |)assed  the 
lake  of  tlie  Two  Mountains,  where  1  he^au  to  sec 
the  mountain  of  my  native  isle.  About  two 
o'eloek,  we  passed  the  rap'd.'?  of  St.  Ann.*  Soon 
after  we  came  opi>osite  iSuut  St.  Louis  and  the 
village  of  C(ui'^'kna\nfiyif,  pass(;d  that  last  rapid 
of  so  many,  aud  landc'J  at  Montreal,  a  little  be- 
fore sunset. 

1  hastened  to  the  paternal  roof,  where  the 
family  were  not  less  surprised  than  oveijoyed  at 
beholdinj^  me.  Xot  having  heard  of  me,  since  I 
had  sailed  from  New  York,  tlicy  had  believed,  in 

*  *'  Ftir-fameil  ami  90  well  di'scnln-'d,"  ndds  Mr.  Fiaiichcro,  in 
hia  own  translalion,  but  I  prefer  to  leave  the  expression  in  its 
orijjiiial  striking,'  simplicity,  as  lie  wrote  it  l)efi)rc  he  had  heard  of 
Moore.     Eveiy  reader  remembers: — 

"Soon  as  the  woods  on  shore  grow  dim, 
We'll  sing  at  St.  Ann's  our  parting-  hynui." 

Cmiadiau  Boatman's  Song. 


'■  •■   .i  ••  , 

it  ■■•••' 


.  -   t.   •- 

r  s. 


368 


FRANCHERE.S   VOYAGE. 


accordance  with  the  common  report,  that  1  had 
been  murdered  hy  the  savages,  with  Mr.  M'Kay 
and  the  crew  of  the  Tonquin :  and  certainly,  it 
was  by  the  goodness  of  Providence  tliat  I  found 
myself  thus  safe  and  sound,  in  tlic  midst  of  my 
relations  and  friends,  at  the  end  of  a  V(n'age  ac- 
companied ])y  so  many  perils,  and  in  which  so 
many  of  my  companions  had  met  witli  an  untime- 
ly death. 


i  • 


M 


U 


I: 


CONCLUSION. 


350 


CHAPTER   XXIX. 

Present  State  of  tho  Countries  visited  by  the  Author. —  CoiTection 
of  Mr.  Irviug's  StalcuiLuUs  respecting  St.  Louis. 

The  last  chapter  closes  the  original  French 
narrative  of  my  travels  around  and  across  the 
continent,  as  published  thirty-three  years  ago. 
The  translation  follows  that  narrative  as  exactly 
as  possible,  varying  from  it  only  in  the  correc- 
tion of  a  few  not  very  important  errors  of  fact. 
It  speaks  of  places  and  persons  as  I  spoke  of 
them  then.  I  would  not  willingly  lose  tl\e  veri- 
similitude of  this  natural  and  unadorned  descrip- 
tion, in  order  to  indulge  in  any  new  turns  of  stylo 
'or  more  philosophical  reflections. 

But  since  that  period  many  changes  have  oc- 
curred in  the  scenes  which  I  so  long  ago  visited 
and  desci'ibed.  Though  they  are  well  known,  I 
may  be  pardoned  for  alluding  to  them. 


'( 


360 


FRA NCIIERK  S    VO YA(1  K. 


r 


•?./ -v. 


The  natives  of  the  Sandwich  ishiiuLs,  who  were 
in  a  state  of  })a!2;anisni  at  tliat  time,  liavc  since 
adopted  a  form  of  Christianity,  have  made  con- 
sideral>le  ])roL!:ress  in  iniitatinu-  the  civilization  of 
Europe,  and  even,  at  tliis  moment,  beg-in  to  en- 
tertain the  idea  of  annexation  to  the  United 
States.  It  appears,  however,  that  the  real  na- 
tives arc  rapidly  dwindling-  away  by  the  cflects 
of  their  vices,  wliich  an  exotic  and  ill-nssimilated 
civilization  lias  rather  increased  than  diminished, 
and  to  wliicli  religion  has  not  succeeded  in  ap- 
plying- a  remedy. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  wliole  tribes, 
and  among  them,  tlie  Chilsops,  have  been  swept 
away  by  disease.  ITero  again,  licentious  hal)- 
its  universally  dillused,  spread  a  fatal  disorder 
through  the  whole  nation,  and  nndermining  the 
constitutions  of  all,  left  them  an  easy  prey  to  the 
first  contagion  or  opidotnic  sickness.  l>ut  mis- 
sionaries of  various  Cliristian  sects  have  labored 
among  the  Indians  of  tlie  Columbia  also;  not  io 
speak  of  the  missions  of  the  Catholic  Clnirch,  so 
well  known  by  the  narrative  of  Father  De  Smet 


'^i*m 


CHANCES. 


OfU 


and  otiior.s ;  and  niinihcrs  liavo  boon  tauo'lit  to 
ciilLivate  tliu  soil,  and  thus  li>  provide  aii'Miiist  tin; 
famines  to  wliich  tlirv  were  fornii>rlv  oxi»m>:m1 
IVoiu  tluMi*  dei)Gndonce  on  the  ])recai'ious  ro 
sonrecs'  of  tlic  cliase  ;  while  others  have  reeeivcMl, 
in  the  I'aitli  of  Christ,  thi;  true  ])rine!j»h^  of  na- 
tional permanence,  and  a  living"  li'erm  of  civiliza- 
tion, which  may  afterward  be  developed. 

Kmin'ration  lia.s  als»)  cari'iiMl  to  th(3  OrcLi'on  tlio 
axe  of  t])e  settler,  as  \v(dl  as  the  canoe  and  pack 
of  the  fur-trad(n-.  The  fertile  vallevs  and 
prairies  of  the  Willamet  —  once  tli^'  r(>sort  of  tlie 
deer,  the  elk.  and  tlit.>  anteloite.  are  now  tilli,Ml 
Ity  ths?  industrious  husUandman.  OrtMi'on  City, 
so  near  old  "  A^^toria,"  whos  >  first  \)'j:  fort:  1  .-iw 
and  di'scri'oed,  is  now  an  Archii'pisfupal  se>',  and 
the  capital  of  a  t(Ma'il(U-y,  which  must  so()n  l»e  a 
state  of  th.,'  Union. 

Of  the  reu'ions  east  ol'  the  mountains  di'scrlhed 
in  liiv  itinerarv.  little  can  he  said  in  resixyjt  to 
improvenvMit :  they  remain  in  tlie  saiu'  wih!  -fate. 
The  interest  of  t!i<'  Hudson's  Day  ( 'oiapany.  as 
an  a-^sociati(jn  of  !'iir-ti-a<iv'is,  is  r>p]H)sed   to  au'ri- 


r 


,..-■1  I 


!  *'■■ 


.•i 


362 


FRANCIIEIIE  S    VOYaCJE. 


cultural  improvements,  whose  operation  would 
be  to  drive  ofl'  and  ext'.iguish  the  v.-ild  'ui^'aols 
thai  furnish  tlieir  commerce  with  its  object.  Bur 
on  Lake  J^uperior  steamboats  liave  sni)plant'xi  tiie 
bircli-bark  canoe  of  the  Indian  and  the  fur-trader, 
and  at  Saut  Ste.  Marie,  especially  on  the  Ameri- 
can side,  there  is  now  every  sign  of  prosperity. 
How  remote  and  wild  was  the  regi(ni  beyond, 
througli  which  I  passed,  may  ]>e  estimated  by  the 
fact  that  in  thirtv-eiu'ht  years  the  onward-rollin<i: 
wave  of  our  ])0})ulation  has  ))ut  just  readied  its 
confines. 

Canada,  although  it  has  not  kept  pace  wirli  the 
United  States,  has  yet  wonderfully  advanced  in 
forty  years.  The  valley  of  the  Ottawa,  that 
great  artery  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  whert^  I  thought 
it  worth  while  to  notice  the  residence  of  an  en- 
terprising farmer  and  lumber  merchant,  is  now  a 
})opulous  district,  w  •.  cultivated,  and  sprinkled 
with  villau'es,  towns,  and  cities. 

The  '""ader,  in  })erusing  my  first  chapter,  found 
a  description  of  the  city  of  New  York  in  1810, 
and  of  the  neighl)oring  village  of  Brooklyn.     It 


CONTRAST, 


3()3 


would  l)C  s'upcrlluou.s  to  estal>lisli  a  conipari.son 
at  this  day.  At  that  tunc,  it  will  1*0  oh.-L'rv(;d, 
tlio  moi'o  breaking'  out  of  wui*  octw'c-.Mi  Ain'*iica 
and  EiiLdaiid  was  thoim-iit  to  involve  the  sacrifice 
of  an  American  commercial  cstaldisliment  on  tlie 
Pacilic,  on  the  <i'round  of  it.s  su)>i)lies  l)ciiiu'  ne- 
cessarily cut  oiV  (it  was  supjxjsed),  and  of  tlie 
United  States  irovernment  bcinu*  unahle  to  ])ro- 
tcct  it  irom  hostile  attack.  At  present  it  sutlices 
to  remark  tliat  while  New  York,  then  so  incon- 
siderahlo  a  })ort,  is  now  perhaps  the  third  city  in 
tlic  world,  tlic  United  States  aUo,  arc,  undoul)t- 
edly,  a  first-rate  power,  unassailahle  at  home, 
and  formidable  al»road,  to  the  greatest  nations. 

As  ill  my  preface  I  alluded  to  ^Ir.  lrvin,i»"'s 
'*  Astoria,"  as  reflecting,  in  my  opinion,  unjuslly, 
upon  tlie  young  men  engaged  in  the  first  expedi- 
tion to  tlic  mouth  of  tlie  Columbia,  it  may  sufllco 
here  to  observe,  witliout  entering  into  ])ar{icalar-) 
that  my  narrative,  vv'liich  I  think  answer>^  for  its 
own  iidt'lity,  clearly  shows  thai  some  of  them,  at 
least  did  not  want  courag(^  activity,  z(?al  for  the 
interests  of  tlic  coiupaiiy,  while  il  cxisliMl,  mid  pa- 


..rivv*-,:- 

■.T'l).   "     M 


'*■        *¥(  ' 

m : 


■(,■' 


864 


FIIANTHKIIES   VOYAGE. 


tleiit  cuduiiViKJc  of  lianlsliip.     And  altliougli  it 


lorius  no  \)\\v 


toftl 


10  ii;iri':itiv(3  or  luy  voyage,  y(3t  us 


siibse(i[ucnt  visits  to  the  West  ami  an  intimate 
knowledge  of  St.  Loui?;,  enaljle  me  to  correct  Mr. 
Irving's  poetical  ratlier  than  accnratc  description 
of  that  place,  1  may  well  do  it  here.  St.  Louis 
now  l)ids  fair  to  rival  ere  long  the  '''  Queen  of  the 
West ;"  Mr.  Irving  describes  lier  as  a  small  tra- 
ding jdace,  where  trappers,  ]uilf-l>reeds,  gay, 
frivolous  Canadian  boatmen,  A'c,  ttc,  congrega- 
ted and  reveUed,  with  that  lightness  and  ]>uoy- 
ancy  of  sj)irit  inherited  from  their  French  f<jrc- 
fathers  ;  tlie  indolent  Creole  of  St.  Louis  caring 
'or  little  more  than  th(!  enjoyment  of  tlie  present 
hour;    a  motley  ])opulation,    half-civilized,  lialf- 


)ar  barons, 


thrown,    on    his    canvas,    into    one 


general,  confused  (I  allow  highly  jncturcsquc') 
mass,  without  respect  of  persons :  but  it  is  fair 
to  say,  witli  due  lionmgc  to  tiie  tnlent  of  the 
skctciier,  who  has  verged  sliglitly  on  cai'icature 
in  the  u.^e  of  that  hiimor-l;)ving  ])encil  admired 
bv  -dl  tlie  \\)rld,  that  St.  Louis  even  tlien  con- 


ai 


iio'l   its   nobli',   indust;"i')us,   and    I    may   say 


ST.    Lori-  MKiiniAXT.S. 


^  p  1 


princely  ninrchaiiis  ;  it  could  boast  its  ChonfrnKS, 
St)iil(Ui(/s,  C  rr,  C/triiirrs,  V(i//rrs,am\  La  Croi.c, 
with  other  kiiiared  s[)irits,  wliosc  desceiulants 
prove  the  worth  of  their  si  -es  l)y  llieir  own,  and 
now  amonir  the  leadin'r  l)usiness  men,  as  tlieir 


arc 

fath 


ers  wei'e 


the  1 


)ionee 


rs,  of  the  fburishing  St. 


Loui; 


With   these   reniai 


■ks,  which  1  make  simply  as 


an 


act  of  ju.-ticc  in  connection  with   the  o-oneral 
uihject  of  the    founding    o 


f  '^  Astoria,"   hut    in 


which   I  mean  to  convey  no  imi)Utation  on 


the 


intentional  fairness  of  the  accomplished  author 
to  wliom  1  have  alluded,  I  take  a  respectful  leave 


of  mv  reai 


lers, 


J  -if 


*3m 


>'*S 


H' 


m 


,L<,: 


I' 


f:^i 


It  ii 


'\:; 


A  P  r  E  N  D  I  X.* 

In  Chapter  XVU.  I  promised  the  reader  xo 
give  him  an  aeeoimt  of  the  iate  of  some  of  tliG 
persons  wlio  left  "Astoria  before,  and  after  its  sale 
or  transfer  to  tlie  Britisli.     I  will  now  redeem 

that  pledge. 

Messrs.  Ramsay  Crooks,  R.  :M'Lelland,  and 
Robert  Stuart,  after  endiirinn-  all  sorts  of  fatigue, 
dan<'-ers  and  hair-ljreadth  eseapes  with  their  lives 

ail  whieh  have  been  so  graphieally  deseribed 

by  Washington  Irving  in  his  "  Astoria,"  finally 
reached  St.  Louis  and  Xew  York. 

Mr.  Clapp  went  to  the  ^laniuesas  Islands, 
where  he  entered  into  tiie  serviec  of  his  country 

*  We  hiivc  tliou-lit  It  best  K.  give  this  Apin-inlix,  ex.Tpting  somo 
al)l>reviiitions  rendered  neee.^i.ry  to  itv.iid  repetili..ii  (.fwl'at  has 
Leeii  stiite.l  before,  in  Mr.  Fr;in. -here's  own  words,  p;irticul;irly  U3 
aspociinen  uf  his  own  Euglisli  style  may  be  justly  interesting  to 
tho  readur. 


H'>.' 


t 


'".,*' 

,«<•, 


[■/. 


•,.rc 


,*> 


i4 


8G8 


F-"iiAN'cm:iM;  s  novack 


in  the  cai):i('il\-  ol"  Miilslii|)iu:iii  uihIit  Commodoro 
INu'tor  —  miulii  iii.-!  csf-iipM  IVom  llu'i'e  in  coinpuny 
with  LiiMiiiMKUit  (jiiiiiil)L'  of  tlio  Murine  corps,  liy 
directions  of  tlie  (Jijniinodoru,  was  caplnrcd  Ity 
tliij  JJrilisli,  landed  at  Uiieno.s  Ayro;;,  and  finally 
roaehcd  Xow  Yorlc. 

0.  M-Douu'ill,  as  a  reward  for  betraying  tlic 
trnst  iv'posi'd  in  liini  by  Mv.  Astor,  was  made  a 
Partner  of  llie  Xorthwest  Company,  crossed  the 


moui 


itains,  and  died  a  miseiMble  ilealli  at  Jjas  dt 


la  Rii'i  rr,  Winipeg.  Doindd  M'Keiizie,  his  co- 
adjutor, went  back  to  the  (Columbia  River,  where 
he  anmssed  a  eonsitlM'aMe  Ibrtime,  with  which  lie 
retired,  and  li\«'d   in  Chanlan([Ui'  (>onnty  in  this 


state,  wliere  he  died  a  I 


\'\v  years  since  unknown 


and  neglected:  —  lie  was  a  very  scliish  inan,  who 


care. 


1  for 


no  one 


but  ! 


iimsc 


■If. 


It  remains  ouly  to  speak  of  Messrs.  J.  C.  Ilal- 
scy,  llnssell,  Farnliam,  and  Alfred  Setou,  who, 
it  will  be  remembered,  '^ml)arked  with  ^fr.  Hunt 
on  the ''Pedlar,"  in  Peb.  ISJd. 

LoJiviuu'  the  River  nb;);it  the  1st  of  April,  tlicy 
proceeded  to  the  Russian  establishment  at  .^itka, 


rM..^ 


Mil.    SKTON  S    AUVK.\TCUi:S. 


r>oo 


Norl'ollc  Somid,  wIh.m'i'  llu-y  (Ml  in  wiili  two  or 
tlii'co  more  Auicriciui  vcssl-Is,  which  had  coiiio  to 
trade  with  (ho  natives  or  to  avoid  the  Di'ili.^ii 
cruinoi'.-f.  While  tlierc,  a  sail  under  Hi-ilish  C(jlors 
tippoart'd,  ami  Mr.  l[imt  sent  Mr.  Scton  to  ascer- 


tain  who  slie   was. 


Mie   turned   out    to  he    the 


"Forester,"   Captain   Pii^'ott,  a  re|)eatimi'  siu'nal 
snip  and  letter-ol'-manpa),  st^nt  IVom   Mnudand  in 
coni[)any  of  a  Meet  intended   for  tiie  South   Seas. 
Oil  I'lirther  acquaintance  with  the  captain,  .Mr. 
Scton  (from  whom  I  derive  these  particulars) 
learned  a  I'act  which  has  never  before  been  pul'- 
lished,  and  which  will  show  the  solicitude  and 
perseverance  of  Mr.  AsTOii.     After  desj>atchin;j; 
the  '•  Lark"  from  New  York,  fearin<i;  that  she 
mig'ht   be  intercepted   by  tlie   British,  he    sent 
orders  to  his  correspondent  in  England  to  pur- 
chase and  fit  out  a  British  bottom,  and  desjiatcli 
her  to  the  Cohimbia  to  relieve  tlie  establishment. 
When   Mr.  limit  hnirm^d   this   fact,  he   deter- 
mined to  leave  Mr.    Ilalstn'  at  Sitka,  and  j»ro- 
ceeding*  himself  northward,  landed  ^Iv.  Farnham 
on  the  coast   'f  Kams/idt/ia,  to  go  over  land  with 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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2.2 
2.0 


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1.4 

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a 


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y 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  USUO 

(716)  872-4503 


■t 


370 


franciiere's  voyac.  r. 


i'  " 


despatches  for  ]Mr.  Astor.  ^Tr.  Farnliam  accom- 
plished the  journey,  readied  nain1)urg,  whence 
he  sailed  for  tlic  AVcst  Indies,  and  finally  arrived 
at  Xew  York,  liaving  made  the  entire  circuit  of 
the  glol)c. 

The  "  Pedlar"  then  sailed  to  the  soiitlieast, 
and  soon  reached  the  coast  of  California,  which 
she  api)roaclied  to  get  a  sup})ly  of  provisions. 
Nearing  one  of  the  harljors,  they  descried  a  vessel 
at  anchor  inside,  showing  American  colors. 
Hauling  tlieir  wind,  they  soon  came  close  to  the 
stranger,  which,  to  their  surprise,  turned  out  to 
bo  the  Spanish  corvette  ''  Santa  Barbara,"  which 
sent  boats  alongside  the  "  Pedlar,"  and  captured 
her,  and  kept  possession  of  the  prize  for  some 
two  months,  during  whicli  they  dropped  down  to 
San  Bins.  Here  Mr.  Hunt  proposed  to  Mr.  Se- 
ton  to  cross  the  continent  and  reach  the  United 
States  the  best  way  he  could.  Mr.  Seton,  accor- 
dingly, went  to  the  Isthmus  of  Daricn,  where  he 
was  detained  several  months  by  sickness,  but 
finally  reached  Carthagena,  where  a  British  fleet 
was  lying  in  the  roads,  to  take  off  the  English 


11  P' 


8URVIV0RS. 


371 


mcrcliants,  wlio  in  consequence  of  tlic  revolution- 
ary movements  going  on,  songiit  i^lieltcr  under 
their  own  flag.  Here  ^\v.  Seton,  reduced  to  the 
last  stage  of  destitution  and  s(iualor,  l)oldly  a}> 
plied  to  Captain  Bentham,  tlic  commander  of  the 
squadron,  -wlio,  finding  him  to  1)C  a  gentleman, 
ofTered  him  every  needfid  assistance,  gave  him  a 
bertli  in  his  own  cai)in,  and  finallv  landed  him 
safely  on  the  Island  of  Jamaica,  wlience  he,  too, 
found  his  way  to  New  York. 

Of  all  those  engaged  in  tlic  expedition  there 
are  now  but  four  survivors — Ramsay  Crooks,  Esq. 
the  late  President  of  the  American  Fur  Company ; 
Alfred  Scton,  Es(p,  Vice-president  of  the  ?un 
Mutual  Insurance  Company ;  ])oth  of  Xew  York 
city ;  Benjamin  Fillet  of  Canada  ;  and  the  author, 
living  also  in  New  Y(n'k.  All  tlie  rest  luave  paid 
llie  debt  of  nature,  but  their  names  are  recorded 
in  the  foregoing  pages. 

Notwithstanding  the  illil)eral  remarks  made  ])V 
Captain  Thorn  on  the  persons  who  were  on  board 
the  ill-fated  Touquin,  and  reproduced  l)y  Mr. 
Irving  in  his  "Astoria"  —  these  young  men  who 


372 


FRAXCllERE  S    VOYA(iE. 


*  V 


were  roprosentod  ns  "  Dnr  koopci'S  or  Billiard 
markei'.-^,  iiiosl  of  wliom  liiid  (l(;d  IVoiii  Jusliety, 
<tc/'  —  1  ieol  il  a  duty  to  say  that  tlicy  were 
f(jr  tlie  most  ])art,  of  good  parouta,i>"e,  lil)cral  ed- 
ucation and  every  way  were  qualilied  to  diseliar^'o 
the  duties  oi'  tlieir  respective  stations.  The  re- 
marks on  the  g'eneral  cliaraeter  of  the  voyageurs 
em})loyed  as  boat-men  and  .Mechanics,  and  tlie 
atteni])t  to  cast  ridicule  on  their  "Braggart  and 
swacra'ering  manners"  come  with  a  bad  grace 
from  the  author  of  "  Astoria,"  when  we  consider 
that  in  that  very  work  Mr.  Irving  is  compelled 
to  admit  tlicir  indomitaldc  energy,  their  fidelity 
to  their  employers,  and  their  cheerfulness  under 
the  most  trying  circumstances  in  which  men  can 
be  placed. 

AYith  respect  to  Captain  Thorn,  I  must  confess 
that  though  a  stern  commander  and  an  irritable 
man,  he  paid  the  strictest  attention  to  the  health 
of  his  crew.  ITis  com})laints  of  the  squalid  ap- 
pearance of  the  Canadians  and  mechanics  who 
were  on  board,  can  l)e  al)atcd  of  their  force  by 
giving  a  description  of  tlie   acconnnodation   of 


JIU.    r  R  A  N'( '  1 1  Kll  K  S   I'ROT  n^^T. 


tlicsc  people.     The  Tonquin  was  a  Finall  ship ; 
its  forecastle  was  destined  for  tlic  ci'cw  perform- 
ing; duty  liefore  the  mast.     The  room  allotted  for 
the  acconnuodation  of  tlic  twcntv  men  destined  for 
the  establislnnent,  was   aljaft   the   forecastle;    a 
bulk-head  had  been  let  across,  and  a  door  led 
from  the  forecastle  into  a  dark,  unvenlilated,  un- 
wholesome place,  where  they  were  all  hea])ed 
together,  without  means  of  locomotion,  and  con- 
sequently deprived  of  that  exercise  of  the  ])ody 
so  necessary  to  health.     Add  to  that,  we  had  no 
physician  on  board.     In  view  of  these  facts,  can 
the  com})laints  of  the  gallant  Captain  be  sustained  ? 
Of  course  Mr.  Irving  was  ignorant  of  these  cir- 
cumstances, as  well  as  of  manv  others  which  ho 
might  have  known,  had  some  one  suggested  to 
him  to  ask  a  few  questions  of  persons  who  were 
within  1  is  reach  at  the  time  of  his  publication. 
I  have  (1  need  scarcely  say)  no  personal  animos- 
ity against  the  unfortunate  Captain;  he  always 
treated  me,  individually,  as  Avell  as  I  could  ex- 
pect ;    and  if,  in  the  course  of  my  narrative,  I 
have  been  severe  on  his  actions,  I  was  inqoclled 


374 


rRAN('H[:uF:s  voyagh. 


by  a  sense  of  justice  to  my  iVioncls  on  l)oard,  as 
well  as  by  the  circumstance  tlmt  such  explana- 
tions of  his  general  deportment  were  re(j[uisite  to 
convey  the  historical  truth  to  my  readers. 

The  idea  of  a  conspiracy  against  him  on  board 
is  so  alisurd  that  it  really  does  not  deserve 
notice.-  The  threat,  or  rather  the  proj)Osal  made 
to  him  by  ^Iv.  M'lvay,  in  the  following  words  — 
"  if  you  say  fight,  fight  it  is"  —  originated  in  a  case 
where  one  of  the  sailors  had  maltreated  a  Canadian 
lad,  who  came  to  complain  to  ^Ir.  ^PKay.  Tlio 
captain  would  not  interpose  his  authority,  and 
said  in  my  presence,  "  Let  them  fight  out  their 
own  battles  :"  —  it  was  upon  that  answer  that  Mr. 
M'Kay  gave  vent  to  the  expression  quoted  above. 
I  might  go  on  with  a  long  list  of  inaccuracies, 
more  or  less  grave  or  trivial,  in  the  beautifully 
written  work  of  Mr.  Irving,  but  it  would  be 
tedious  to  go  through  the  whole  of  them.  The 
few  remarks  to  which  I  have  given  place  above, 
will  suffice  to  prove  that  the  assertion  made  in 
the  i^refacc  was  not  unwarranted.  It  is  far  from 
my  intention  to  enter  the  lists  with  a  man  of  the 


*,' ' 


kditor's  xoti:. 


') 


Vii> 


litorarv  merit  and  i-ojinlation  of  ^Fr.  li-^^ip-,  l)ut 
as  a  iiai'i'ator  of  events  ol'  wliicli  1  was  an  i:ve- 
WJTXKSS,  1  Iblt  lioimd  to  tell  the  trutli,  altliougli 
tliat  truth  niiiilit  iiu{)Ugn  tlio  historieal  accuracy 
of  a  work  which  ranks  as  a  chissic  in  the  hui- 
o'uau'G.  At  the  same  time  I  entirely  exonerate 
IMr.  L'ving  from  any  intention  of  })rejudicing  the 
minds  ofliis  readers,  as  he  doul)tless  had  onlv  in 
view  to  support  the  character  of  his  friend:  that 
sentiment  is  wortliv  of  a  Q'enerous  heart,  hut  it 
sliould  not  1)0  gratified,  nor  Avould  he  wish  to 
gratify  it,  I  am  sure,  at  the  expense  of  the  char- 
acter of  others. 


Note  nr  thk  Editor. 

Perliaps  own  coiitniry  to  tlio  wish  of  Mr.  Franclirro,  I  have 
left;  tli(^  mIiovc  jiliiiost,  word  for  word  ms  lio  wrote  it.  It  is  a  part 
of  the  lii-^tory  of  llic  iiffiir.s  related  as  well  in  Mr.  Irvill^^^  Astoria 
as  in  tlie  pres(Mit  vohune,  tliat  tlio  reclanialioiis  of  orio  of  tho 
clerks  ou  that  famous  and  iinfortunate  voyaso  of  the  Tonrpiiii, 
against  ihe  tlisparauin;^  di'scriplion  of  himself  and  his  colleagues 
given  in  tlie  former  work,  should  Ite  fairly  recoided.  At  the  same 
time,  I  ran  not  help  statin"  my  own  impression  that  a  natural  sua- 
cc])tihiHty,  roused  liy  those  slighting  remarks  from  Captain  Thorn's 
corrospondenoe,  to  which  Mi'.  Irving  as  an  historian  gives  cur- 
rency, has  somewhat:  hh'nded  my  excellent  friend  to  the  tone  of 
banter,  so  characteristic  of  the  chronicler  of  the  Knicki'rhockers, 
in  which  all  these  particulars  are  given,  nloro  as  traits  of  the  char- 


376 


FRAXnilJRE's    VOYAf;E. 


actcf  of  the  stern   old 


Imi(l-liili!.crs  and    lite  raiv  cli  ik< 


i-i-apfain,  wlili   Ids   lirarty  ('(Uitfmpt   for 


than  a>^  a  ( 


tlif  pi'fsciHs  (HI  Imard    liis   s(d]i,  sii 
mid  a-<  \vr  sec    hy  the    iinsciil  Wdi  1 
Dii.t  (dianictiTs,  Inr  w  in 


"'I'l'ndaidc  ncroiiii 


t    (if 


nir  (if  wluiin   ini''lit   have   I 


HM'Il, 


wiTc,  in    fact,  v 


I'lT   nifntdii- 


i<ir>i'    liliTan-  turn,  and    faiild'ul    jdiirnali 


'  •    '■"     "■'■ui_\   iiiLM,, 1,111    lainiiui  jdurnaiizin"' 

(uliirli   S(MMn8  to  have  ..si„>,-iaily  provoked   tli.>   captain's  wmtli), 


now  at  lli(i  end  of  more  ti 


laii   (ortv  vcai.-;,  we  liav 


to   lie   tliankfni.      (. 


('  so  inucli  reason 


'erlainjy    Mr.  Irvin,-'    himself,  who    has    d 


ra  \vn 


fn-qn(>nliy    on    Mr.    Fraud 
well-known  last 


sitn 


lere  s    narrative,    conld    not,    from    Ids 

(^  ill  such  matters,  he  insensihle   to  tlie    Defoc-like 

plicity  thorcof,  nor  lo  the  pictiirrscpie  descriptions,  worthv  of 


a  professional  pen,  with  whicli  it  is  sprinkli-d. 


THE    END. 


'^V. 


J.  S.  REDFIELD, 

IJO  AND  112  NASSAU  STUKKT,  NEW  YOUR. 


HAS  JTJST  PUBLISHED: 


By 


EPISODES  OF  INSECT  LIFE. 

AcHF.TA  DoMF.STicA.     In  Three  Series:  I.  Insects  of  Spring!;. - 
II.  Insects  of  Summer. —  ITT.    Insects  of  AiUumn.      Bt'nutifiiliy 
illustrated.     Cro  vn  8vo.,  cloth,  ^ilt,  price  S'2.00  each.     The  same 
be'iutifuUy  colored  alter  nature,  extra  ^ilt,  $4.00  each. 

"A  hook  flcLMiit  i'n(ni>.' .1  for  the  centre  tnlilf,  ^vitty  onou^h  for  (iftcr  ditiripr.  iinii  wi^e 
pnoiiu'li  tor  tlie  study  fithi  tlif  jJcluHilrooin.  Oni"  ot'tlu'  liciititilul  li'snons  oCthis  work  '8 
thi'  kindly  view  it  tfikcs  ol'  luiturp.  Notln'Dtr  is  miidc  in  vjiin  not  only,  liut  notliini,'  ia 
made  ugly  or  rcpulsivo.  A  cliiirm  i^  thrown  around  ovi'ry  (>!ij(M't,  iind  life  .'utl'uscd 
Ihriniul)  nil.  siiL'L'i'stivt!  of  tlif!  CrmtorV  i: Iniv-a  nnd  wisdom." — ,V.  V.  Evn'igrlist. 

'•  Motli!>,  iilow-worm-i,  liidy-liirds,  Miiv-tii'-i,  lico.-',  nnd  a  variety  of  otlicr  inluiliitante  of 
''he  insect  world,  are  dcpcanted  npon  in  a  |ileii-inu  '^tyle,  coinbininc  scientitic  inforniatioa 
witii  romance,  in  a  manner  peculiarly  attriictiv(\" — Conimi'rriat  Advrrrisf.r. 

"The  liook  iriclude.-f  solid  instruction  ar*  well  as  i,'eni;il  and  captivating  mirth.  Tho 
scientific  kuuwledgo  of  the  writer  is  thoroughly  rt'liablo." — Examiner 


MEN  AND   WOMEN  OF  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY. 

By  Ansr.NK  IIoussayk,  with  beautifully  l^^n^raved  I*ortraits  of 
Louis  XV.,  and  Madame  de  Pom|)adour.  Two  volume  12mo. 
450  pa^es  each,  extra  superfine  paper,  price  $'2.50. 

CoNTKNTS.— Dufro?ny,  Fontenrllo,  Marivaux,  Piron,  The  Alihe  Provost,  npntil-Romard, 
Floriaii.  P)oulllors,  DiJorot,  Ciretry,  Riverol,  Louis  XV.,  f/reuze,  IJoucher,  Tiie  VHn- 
loo.^,  Latitara,  W'attcau,  La  Motte,  Dehle,  A!)be  Trublet,  ButTon,  Dorat,  Cardinal  de 
Berni:?,  Crt'billon  tho  (lay,  Marie  Antoin"ttn,  Made,  do  Pompadour,  Vade.  Mlln.  ("u- 
niaruo,  MWo..  Clairon,  Mad.  de  la  Popelinir'r(\  Sophie  Arnould,  ("?rc"billon  tlin  'I'ruL'io, 
MIL?,  fiuirnurd,  Three  I'aijcs  in  tin:  Life  of  Dancourt,  A  Promenade  iu  the  Palais-It  )yu!, 
the  Chevalier  do  la  Clos. 
•'Amoro  fa>^einatin!!  book  thrm  tiii-!  rarely  i^'=ne.'»  from  the  teeniinijf  preos.     Fa-rinn- 

lili'j  in  its  -uliject  ;  I'a.siiiiatin:.'  in  it-;  ityli' :  la,<(iiiaiiiiLr  in  it;;  power  to  liad  the  re;ider  ir't<.' 

ca^tle-buildiiii.'  of  the  triost  irorLieon^  and  bewitching'  de-Jcn|ition  " — Cnnrur  .v  /•."(.■'/i/iiff. 
"This  is  a  most  Ui-lcome  hook,  fuli  id  information  and  amupenii'iit.  in  the  t(,rin  of 

memoirs,  cotTunents,  and  anecdoti'.s.      It  lias  the  ^tyle  ot   liu'li!  literature,  with   the  ukH' 

fulnesij   if  the  trravo'^t.     It  t-lumld  la-  iii  (.-very  liiirary,  and  tlie  hands  of  <  very  reader" 

Boston.  Commiinwcalth. 
"A  Book  of  llooKs. — Two  deliciously  ppicy  volumee,  that  are  a  pcrtecl  bonne  bituoAi 

kit  K)  epicure  ui  n'udingJ' — Home  JouniaL 


RFDIirLDH    NTW    AVP    POPULAR    PITPM'' \T'MS* 


vnir.osoriiiins  asd  actiuis.sks 


(titriiils 


iniii,    —  gunner  lii.fuir, 

"  It  is  a  nidsf  (i(liiiir!tt)lf>  book,  full  of  oriL'iiiality,  \\ir,  inroiniiilioii  niu'  j)liil()BO|il:_> 
iidccd,  ilic  vivi<lii('Hs  ol  till'  liouk  in  nxtnioidiimiy.  'I'lit!  si'ciift)  ami  d-vciiiuiona  uk 
ih-()!utcly  liti'-likr." — Sniitlimi  LiUrnrij  (Inzctte. 

"  'i'lic  woika  ot  the  iircsctit  wiitiw  aic  tin'  only  oncfl  the  spirit  of  \vlir«o  iliotorli;  doi « 
iuatico  to  th()s(!  tiiiit's,  and  in  I'liHciiiatioii  ol  di-x-iiptioii  und  style  equal  tliu  f<»uvl»iOli(jit. 
;lii'y  di'SCHiit  upon." — .\i:w  Orlmim  Coinvtari(d  Itntlclin. 

"'J'lit!  auihof  in  a  bnlliiuit  writer,  and  servea  up  hiti  ekotches  in  a  sparkling  uianncr  " 


r^^T? 


'■^ 


ANCIENT  EGYPT  UNDER  THE  PHARAOHS. 
By  John  Kknokick,  i\I.  A.     In  2  vols.,  12mo,  price  $2.50. 

"  No  work  lias  heretofore  apjjoared  suited  to  the  wants  of  the  hi-torical  studont, 
which  coiubiued  tiio  Iui)ors  of  arlifts,  travcllirs,  iutirpn  tcrs  and  fritics,  (iurinjj  tho 
periods  fiDiii  the  eailiest  records  (d  the  uionarcliy  to  its  tiual  alisurptiun  in  the  euipiro 
of  Alexander.     This  work  tiup]ilies  tliis  deticiency." — Oliiu:  Hranrh. 

"Not  (inly  tho  i.'eo:;iui)liy  and  political  hii^tory  of  K::yi)t  under  tho  I'liiiraohs  are 
given,  hut  we  are  !ui  ni.-hed  with  a  minute  ui^count  of  tlje  donieiitie  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  till!  inhahitaiits,  their  lantruiige,  laws,  science,  religion,  agriculture,  uavigatiuii 
und  coiiiirieree.'"—  C<:»imi'riial  Ailvirthcr. 

'• 'i'liese  Volumes  pre.-i.'ii' a  comprehen..;ivo  view  of  ti;e  renults  of  tho  conihined  lalu^rs 
of  travellers,  artist.-*,  and  fccientitic  e.xplort;rs.  which  huve  eilccted  fo  much  durini,'  tliU 
pre.sent  century  toward  the  ilevelopiaeiit  of  Egyptian  arclutoloyy  and  history." — Juur- 
nal  of  Commerce. 

"  'i"he  ilescriptions  are  very  vivid  and  oik;  wander.-',  delii;lited  witli  the  author,  throutrli 
the  land  (d'  I'^i-'Vpt,  gatheriuir  at  every  step,  new  pha.--e8  of  her  wonilrous  hi.st(;ry,  and 
ends  with  a  mori!  iiitvlligent  knowledge  lliaa  he  ever  before  had,  of  tlio  laud  of  th« 
rharuolis." — American  SpeUator. 


U 


COMPA RA  TIVE  PHYSIOGNOMY ; 

Or  Resemblances  between  Men  and  Animals.  By  J.  W.  Redfield, 
M.  D.  In  one  vol.,  8vo,  with  several  liundretl  illustrations, 
price,  S2.OO. 

"  Dr.  Iled-Jeld  has  produced  a  very  curious,  ainusina:,  and  instructive  book,  curious 
in  its  ori'.'ip'ility  and  illustration.a,  amusing  in  the  comparisons  and  analyses,  and  in 
Blructive  b  icause  it  contains  very  much  uselul  udormntion  on  a  too  much  ueglecti-'d 
subject.     It  will  bo  eagerly  read  and  (piickly  aiipreciated." — Nuiioiud  .IZgis. 

"'I'he  whole  Work  exhibits  a  g<jod  deal  of  scientitic  research,  intelligent  observation, 
ind  inueiiuity."— /Ja//y  Uithni. 

"  Hiiihly  entertaining  even  to  those  who  have  liltle  time  to  t:tudy  the  science."'— 
Detroit  Paily  Adrirliser. 

'•  This  iij  a  remarkalil"  volume  and  ^\'lll  be  read  by  two  clas.'ses.  those  who  study  ii<\ 
inldiiiiatjon,  aii>;  tho.-ie  who  read  lor  amu-iement.  For  it.^  originality  and  tnitiM'taining 
character,  vre  comnieiid  it  to  our  ri-adfr?!." — Alhanij  Kxpnss. 

"  It  is  overllowing  with  wit,  humor,  and  oiigmality,  ami  jjrofusely  illustrated.  The 
whole  work  is  distingui^heil  by  vast  research  and  knov.-ledire." — Kviclcerboclccr. 

"  The  plan  is  a  novel  one ;  the  proofs  atriking,  and  must  challenge  tho  attention  of  the 
euricus." — Daily  Adrerttser 


nrDrii'i.iis   \nw  .wn  roiM'T.'u    rrriK'A'riovs. 


mrkling  uinnucr  " 


[ly  tlio  ecienco.''— 


Norns  A.\n  {':Mi:M)Ari()\s  or  sa  i\'i:s/'i-: Aur:. 

Notf'H  iiiid  KiiK'iiiliitiniis  fc  tlic  Trxt  nl'  Sli  iI\(s|Miiii  '^  I'biV"*.  fVi>rn 
tlv  Ivirlv  .Miiiiuvcripf,  ('urr'-diDii-i  in  u  copy  nf  thi-  tollo  of  )'V.Vi. 
in  llic  iii»sscs-<ioii  of  John  Paym:  (Jollikii,  Ks(|.,  K.S.A,  Thin) 
eili'iori,  wiih  a  l.ui-sirriilc  of  the  Maiiuscri|it  C(jrri;ctioiis.  I  vol 
r2iri(),  cloth,  $1    r){). 

'  It  is  nut  (or  n  inoinctit  ti>  Im  doiilifed,  W(»  tliink,  tliat  in  tliis  vnluino  n  rcintrilnitli'r 
t*s  lirrii  111  iilc  to  till'  clciifnc-irt  Mini  iicciiriii'y  ol  Hliiikf»<iii'ari''s  text,  liy  fur  tin'  rii(>--t  iiii 
portdtit  of  liny  otri'i-r,!  or  iitti-injiti'il  Hiiifi'  Sliulci'H|)i'iiri'  livi'il  iinil  wroti-." — I.inhl.  Efum 

"  Till'  corrci'tioiH  which  Mr,  (;()UiiT  \\w  h'Tc  l:ivi  n  to  thi"  worM  uri',  wc  vrni\irf  to 
think,  i>f  inori'  viilin'  tiiiin  the  lnliors  dI  nearly  all  tlio  critica  on  riliuktwjiourt^'H  ti'Xt  jmv 
to^'i'llirr." — /.(indoii  f. ill  ran/  Cnullr. 

"  it  in  a  ran'  :;riii  in  tin-  hi-tory  ol  liti'mturo,  and  ran  not  fail  to  (•oinniand  thr  atten- 
tlon  ot  all  lilt!  Miiuiti'uirt  1)1  the  uriliii_'-i  ol  thr  iiiiinortal  dianiatiir  poet." — (Jh'staii  (Jour 

"  It  irt  a  honk  alisoliiti'ly  iinli  •pcn-ali!"  to  cvrry  adinirt-r  ot  ."^huki-Hpenrt!  who  wibhrs 
lo  Tc-ad  him  undi'i^tiiiidinu'ly."— A""*'-'''//''  Coiiriir. 

"  It  i-t  clear  Ironi  intirnal  cvidincc,  tliiit  lor  the  rnoHt  part  they  are  cnniiine  rnatiiia- 
tioim  ot'tlif  ()i'ii:inal  jilay^.     Tlicy  carry  conviction  with  thein," — Hume  Jnuriinl. 

"Thii^  voliinie  i.-t  an  almost  indi-pcn-ahle  conijianion  to  any  ot  tin;  cvlitioiiH  ul 
Pluike-jpear",  so  nuiiieruu;)  and  ottiin  important  are  iniiny  ot  tho  curroctiouy."—  UegiaiT 
l'/tiia(hlphui. 


ff^. 


^vL 


THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  CRUSADES. 

By  .TosKiMi  Fk.w^ois  ■\1iciiaud.     Tiuii-hitcd  by  \V.  Robson,  3  vols. 
12rno.,  maps,  "Sj  7o. 

"  It  is  comprehenoivo  and  nrcurate  hi  the  detail  of  ract->,  mothodicril  nnd  lucid  in  ar- 
ranirenient,  w  tli  a  lively  and  tlowinir  narrative." — Joi/nial  of  Cummrrrc. 

"  We  ii'ed  not  Fay  that  l\w  work  of  Midland  has  snperMeded  all  other  hi.>itorie8 
oCthe  (Jru^'adi'S.  Tiiis  history  lia^  loiiuf  Iweii  the  etandard  work  with  ail  wiio  could 
read  it  in  its  ((riirinal  lanirnairo.  Another  work  on  th"  same  snhject  is  a;'  improlialdo 
89  a  new  history  of  the  'Decline  and  Fa!  of  tiie  lloiiiaii  Empire,'" — SnUrm  Fnir/ian. 

" 'riie  most  iaithtiil  and  masterly  history  fver  written  of  the  wild  wars  for  the  Holy 
Land," — Philadelphia  Amrrl-aik  Conrirr. 

"The  ahility,  diligence,  and  faithfulne.^s,  with  which  Michaud  lins  oxecuted  his 
preat  task,  fire  undisputed  ;  and  it  is  to  his  weli-filhMJ  volumes  that  the  hiutoricai  stu- 
dent must  now  re.-'ort  for  coiiions  and  authentic  facta,  and  lumiruais  viewn  respeciing 
this  most  romantic  and  wonderful  period  in  tho  annalij  of  tlio  Old  World." — Boston 
Daily  Courier. 


xS^ 


MARMADUKE  WYVIL. 

An  Historical  Romance  of  1051,  by  Hk:<(ry  W.  Hkrbkrt,  aut])(*r 
of  the  "  Cavaliers  of  I^^uglatid,''  cVc,  &c.  Fourteenth  Edition. 
Revised  and  Corrected. 

"  This  H  one  of  tin?  he.-st  works  of  tlie  kind  we  have  ever  read — full  of  tliriliin|T  inci- 
dents and  adventures  in  the  stirrina:  time.s  of  ('roniwel],  and  in  tliat  style  which  has 
nind''  the  works  of  .Mr.  iierl)ert  go  popular," — fftri>tinn  Friemnn,  Ilo^inn. 

"The  W(jrk  io  disiiniiuishei!  liy  the  same  liistorical  knowledge,  thrilhnir  incif'ent,  and 
pictorial  he.nily  of  style,  wliieli  liavi  jharacferized  >ill  Mr.  Herhert's  fictions  and  imijartfld 
to  them  su.'h  fthewitchinj-  interest." — Yankee  lilndr. 

"The  author  out  of  asiuipli-  plot  and  very  few  characters,  lia.9  constructed  a  novo! 
of  deep  interest  and  nf  considerahle  liiBtoricul  value.  It  will  be  found  well  worth 
reading"— iVa/iy««/  /L^in,  Worcester. 


n  KDi  ii;i,i)  s   xr.w  and  ri)iMi,\K   iMiu.ifA'rioNs, 


11.? 


^!J|  f- 


sKir/wuKs  or  Tin:  inisii  hau. 

By  llic  Riiilit  Hon.  Riciiaiu)  rjAi-oii  Siikil,  M.  I*.  Ilditcd  \\l!]i 
n  .M(iii(»ir  ami  Notes,  l)y  l^r.  Suklton  Mackk.nzii:.  Fourth 
^Milioll.     In  -J  vols.     Price  $2  OU. 

"'I'lK-y  iittiiictr'iJ  niiivcisiil  uttciitidii  liy  flirir  lirilliiiiif  ninl  pniiifi'il  slyl",  ninl  tli<'ii- lit) 

tT'iliiy  <it   Hc'iitiiiii'iit.     'J'liM  Niifi-iJ  ciiilinily  a  cn'iit  iiinniiiii  ot  liiii!.'ni|iliic;tl  iiiloriiiiiiind, 

tciiicy  !,'n-Hi|i,   1('l;u1  mill  piiliiicul  iiii''C(liirc,  miil    iinnisiii','  r>'iiiiiii-'('cn('>'H,  uml,  in  tiicf, 

omit  iiotliiiiu'  Hint  JH  c-.i'iitiiil  to  till'  |ii'i('fct  f'hiciiiiitiDii  (pf  ilu-  ti'Xt."—  yew  York  Trihiinr. 

"'I'lif-y  ;iri'  till'  i)i'--t  cditt'd  litiiik^  u'f  liiivi-  met  liir  mmiy  ii  yi'ur.  'I'iuy  loiin,  with 
Miicki'n/.it'rt  iiiiti'H,  a  (•(iriiplt'tc  liintfriiphical  ilii'liniiiiry,  cnnfiilriiiii;  siirTiiict  miil  cli'Vcr 
hkitclic-  (if  all  till  tiiliioUH  |)(  oplt"  ot'  K!ii,'liiii(l.  Mini  jiiiit  riiliiily  "I  Iff  liiiid,  to  wlioiii  tli(> 
8lii.'liti'ht  allti^ioiH  ail'  iiiiiili'  in  tlir  li'xt." — T/ic  Cilizrn  (.hi/ni  Mitrlid). 

"Dr.  Mucki'iizii'  (Irni'i'vi'M  tin-  ilimik-i  (il  iin'ii  (il  littiii-,  piiriiciilai  ly  nC  Ii  i-Iiiitcii,  for 
hin  icHi'iiicii  Mill  CHIP.  Altii::rtli('r,  tin;  woik  U  ow  \vi' can  n'commnul  in  tlir  lli^lll•^t 
tcnii-i." — I'hiliiililpliia  C'iti/  Hem. 

"  Sucli  a  n-pi'itiiy  III  wit,  liiiinor,  luiiH-ilnfp,  niid  <uit-jriishi!ia' Cum,  iniiii.'lr'tl  with  the 
(I'l'pi'tit  piiMiiis,  wlnii  we  iilli'ct  iipiiii  till'  siiil  liifi'  nt'  irrbiml.  iim  ihi-i  hoiik  atl'iinis,  jr  wi'io 
hiinl  to  tiuil  wiitirii  in  any  ntluT  pair  ut' cuvci-.-i." — Hi'ljnla  Piii/ij  Conrirr. 

"  Ai  a  wliiili'.  II  nioii'  -paikliii;:  livi'ly  i-rriri*  nt' pm tuiit-i  wii-  linrilly  i-vrr  si't  in  ii  ^-inirlo 
pnlli-ry  It  Ih  irinli  all  nvir;  tlii>  wit,  ilii-  fully,  flu'  fNtrnvii','!tni'i',  ami  tin;  liri>  air  all 
aliki' I'liniHCtiTiHilc  ol  wi  iti'r  aiiil  siiliji'rt'j." — .\(m  York  ErnnsfrHst. 

"  'J'liei-e  viilunii'a  atlord  a  ricli  tit^ai  lu  tlit'  luvi'is  ul  lituralun'." — llartfurd  Christian  Sec 


By 


CLA  SS IC  A ND  HIS  TO lilC  P OR  TRA ITS. 
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"  A  sriii'.s  of  pcr.soiiiil  skifclies  of  distinmiisliod  individiuils  fif  nil  alios,  oinhfnoinc  Jinn 
nnd  ink  |iorlriiitH  of  iniir  si.xty  iicisons  (loiu  ^'!lpplll)  down  to  iMiidaiiic  do  Starl.  'I'lii-y 
ehow  niiii'li  rtvirarcli,  and  po-.si'.-i.s  tlnit  iiitcri'fJt  which  att.iclii's  to  tin'  private  lifo  of  thoso 
wlioso  naiiiJ's  arc  known  to  fanii'." — ytw  Hdrin  Joiininl  and  Courier. 

"They  arc  C(iinpit'licnsiv<>,  wcll-wiitri'ii,  and  jiidicioiiH,  huili  in  the  Selection  of  sub- 
ject^i  and  the  niHiiiier  of  treating,'  them." — ll()stoii  Athis. 

" 'i'he  anilior  liaH  painted  in  niiimtc  toiu-licH  the  clinracteristic.f  of  oacli  with  vnrioua 
pcr.'ional  detaili*,  all  inlerestinLS  (itid  all  calculated  to  fiiiiii-li  to  the  mind's  eyi"  a  coinpleta 
poitriiitiire  of  the  individual  descrihed." — Albany  Knickerbocker. 

" 'J'he  .•^ketche,'?  are  full  and  (rnipliic,  many  aiithoritiea  having  evidently  been  consulted 
by  the  author  in  their  preparation." — Boston  Journal. 


THE  WORKINGMAXS  WAY  IN  THE  WORLD. 

Beiti'j;  the  Autobiography  of  a  .Tourneyman  Printer.  By  Charles 
Manuy  Smith,  author  of  "  Curio.sities  of  London  Life."  I'^rno, 
ch)th,  Si  00. 

"Written  by  n  man  of  genius  nnd  of  niost  extraordinary  powers  of  description." — 
Jhmon  Trnrcllcr. 

"  [:  will  lie  read  willi  no  gmall  decree  of  interest  by  the  professional  bretbren  of  the 
(uitlior.  af<  well  as  liy  all  wlu»  find  altiactiona  in  a  Well-told  tale  of  a  woi  kinginan." — 
Bo.-^ton  .lllax. 

'•All  aiiinsincr  .1?  well  as  ir.Htnu'tive  book.  t"lliii:x  how  humble  ob-curity  cuts  it.i  wiiy 
tliroii^li  till'  woilii  wilh  ciier^ry,  p^rsevi'iance,  and  integrity.'' — Albauij  Knickrrhnckrr. 

''The  book  ir  the  must  entertaining  we  luive  met  with  for  months." — Fhiladdphia 
Evcuinsf  Bulletin. 

•'  He  lias  evidently  moved  through  the  world  with  his  eyes  open,  nnd  having  n  vein 
of  humor  in  his  nature,  lius  written  ona  of  the  most  reudable  books  of  the  teuaon." — 
Zion's  Herald. 


UHDFIKLD  S    NKW    AND    rOlTI.AR     IT  nr.K'ATIONS. 


MACAULA  Y\S  SPEncilKS. 

SprrrliPf*  Iiv  tlio  Riu'lit  lion.  'I\  15.  MA»Ari,\Y,  INT.  P.,  Author  of 
"  Tlif  nisiory  of  Knclninl."  "  Lay>»  of  Aiicicul  Jlomc,"  A:c.,  dec. 
Twii  vols.,  I -Jinn,  |)rict!  S'J.dO. 

"  If  JH  linni  to  pay  wdrtluT  liin  pnf-try,  Hi"*  ^ppfchcd  in  jinrliiirin'rit.  or  liis  tirillinitt 
^^sny,  Hi'i'  ihi'  iniiot  cliiirmiiiL' ;  ciu'li  liiu<  riiiH''il  liitn  tn  very  i^nat  iniiniricc,  hikI  woulii 
bf  siitlicii  lit  to  I'oMHtituti' till-  rciMitiitinri  ut'ittiy  ii>-  liniiry  ihhh."— .s/r  Arrhihnld  Ali'ini 

'•  It  uiiiy  In-  fuiii  tliiit  (iii'iit  I'.nliiiii  liHs  prodiiri'il  no  fiirifrfinitn  Kiiirc  Itiii  ki-.  w  ho  hitt 
UTiilfd  ill  no  (•iniii''iit  a  dfLrrfc  hm  Miicniilny  tli"'  Intty  iiiiil  ciillivatcil  ijciiiuM,  liic  ('i(i(|iH'iit 
oriiti  r,  niiii  tlif  hH/ncioiiH  luid  turn  acliiin'  politician." — Alluiinj  Ar^nn, 

"  \Vt'  do  not  know  ol  any  livint;  i;ii;^li-ii  orntor,  wlio)*!'  cioriui'iicf  coiikh  so  near  tliP 
Biicicnt  idral  — cloM',  rii|pid.  powcrtiil,  jirm til-Ill  rriihonin:;,  tuiiuialfd  liy  an  inti  iihi*  coin 
CUtlM'bs  ol  li'i'lin.:.''—  C"'r/(>-  \  Kni/nirir. 

"  Mr.  MacMulay  lias  lutciy  u(c|iiircil  a-i  L-rcnt  n  r(']>utnti'in  m^  an  orator,  ns  lio  lind  for- 
merly won  as  an  ivsayi-t  and  iiihtorian.  lIi-  taktH  in  hirt  fpicciic.M  tiic  hhiiic  wiilc  and 
c•olnp^cllcn^^ivl'  :;ra-p  ol  liis  .-nlijcct  tliat  iic  liocs  in  hid  cHiuys,  and  treats  it  in  tlic  saiiio 
fU'tritnt  (<fyli'," — I'/iiiiilrlphin  F.ri niii^'  llullrtin. 

'• 'l'li'>  haiiii'  clalidi  iti'  )iiiii-h,  i-parklin^'  aiitiMicpJs,  lull  pwi'c])  nnd  copiouH  flow  ol 
tlioii'jlit,  and  traiippan  iicy  of  .-tylc.  wliicli  iniulc  liin  c--avf<  Ho  attractive,  arc  loiind  in 
his  Hpccchi's.  'i'licy  aic  so  pcrs[iii-nou-',  so  lirilliaiitly  ttnddcd  with  orTiiimcnt  ainl  illus- 
tration. Hiid  flo  itsiHlliss  In  their  (\irrciit.  that  they  appi  ar  at  iLu  time  to  Lu  tlie  wiat'Bt 
Bud  gruutc'iit  vi  hiiiiian  coinpohition.-." — .XiwYork  EvangilLit, 


TRENCH  ON  PROVERBS. 

On  thn  LossotT?  iti  T^rnvrrh-;,  Iiy  Rkjiivrd  Ciikm.vix  Trench,  R.  D., 

Pnifcssor  of  Divinify  in   Kmo;'s  Ci)ll('o;e,  London,  Author  of  the 
"  Study  of  Words."'    lv>mo,  cloth,  50  cents. 

"Another  clmniiiiiij  hook  by  the  antlior  of  the  "  Study  of  Wonl.^."  on  n  Piiliiecf  which 
Is  po  iniieiiiou-ly  treated,  that  we  wonder  no  oik;  lia.s  treiited  it  helure." — Yniikre  ^ilnilf. 

"  It  if<  a  hook  at  once  profouniily  ini^tiuctive,  and  at  the  Ffttne  time  deprived  ol  al! 
fippi'ouch  to  dryness,  liy  the  cliarniing  manner  in  which  tlie  hul.ject  in  trealt.ul"— /Jr 
thiir'a  Ifinne  flnzifte. 

"  It  is  a  wide  fi.-ld,  and  one  which  the  n\ithor  Iimb  well  cultivated,  addin;r  not  only  to 
his  own  reputntioii.  hut  a  valuaMe  work  to  our  lirerature."— ^l//>a"y  F.vinhii(  'IW  )isirii)t, 

" 'Ilii' work  fihows  an  acute  peiception.  a  ireniiil  ajii>recii,rion  ol  wit.  ;ind  eiiat  re- 
Fcarcl).  It  is  a  very  inre  niid  atireealde  production,  wliicli  may  he  read  with  p  otit  and 
.•ielichl."— A'<ic  Y'ork  F.rniifftlist. 

"  The  styl(j  of  the  author  is  terse  and  vigorous — alinoBt  a  model  In  its  kind  '—Port 
Uind  Eclectic. 


m 


CWr^ 


TILE  LTON  SKIN 

And  the  Lover  Hunt ;  by  Ciiahlks  dk  Bernard,     l2mo,  $1.00. 

"  It  i.s  not  often  tlie  novel-render  can  find  (jn  his  tiookseller's  shelf  a  jnildication  so  full 
of  incidents  and  good  humor,  and  at  the  fcUJiu;  time  go  provocative  ollionest  thought." 
-•A'Aao/zf/ (Worcester,  Mass.)  .^ ■?/.«(. 

"  It  is  lull  of  incidr'iits  ;  and  tlie  render  hrcotnes  po  interested  in  the  principal  person- 
Bfrop  in  the  work,  ihnt  he  ip  unwillint.'  to  lay  the  book  down  until  he  has  learned  theii 
whole  history." — IhisUm  Otice  Branch. 

'•  It  in  relreBliinir  to  meet  (u  cahioiialiy  with  a  well-puhliehed  story  which  is  written  for 
ft  fitoiy.  tuid  for  notliint:  el.se— whicli  is  not  tipjX'd  with  the  eiiapjier  of  8  moral,  o» 
loaded  in  tlie  handle  with  a  pound  of  philanthropy,  or  an  equal  quantity  of  leaden  phi 
lobophy." — Sprhigjidd  lU^ibliran. 


If:  ''■• ' 
0.'    *  ■ 


'f-^- 


KEDl'IELDS    M-.W    AND    POPULAR    PUBLIC ATI0N8. 


MOORE'S  LIFE  OF  SHERIDAN. 

Memoirs  of  the  Life  of  tl:e  lit.  Hon.  Richard  ]5rinsley  Sher-idan, 
by  'J^noMAs  Moore,  Avirh  Portrait  after  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds, 
Two  vols.,  12mo,  cloth,  $2.00. 

"One  of  tho  most  brillinnt  biofrrnphios  in  English  litprntiiro.  It  is  thn  lifo  of  a  wit 
writfi^n  hy  n  wit,  (ind  ffw  of  Tom  iVfooic's  most  spnrklijig  poems  are  moro  brilliant  and 
'ttficinntin;;  tlian  thif<  biofrrnphy." — BnMon  lyminrrijir. 

"  Tliis  is  at  oncn  a  inoRt  valual)l<'  lii()!,'fn])hy  of  tljc  most  P(>lcbrntr>(I  wit  of  tho  times, 
nd  on»^()f  tho  most  riit'Ttninii,!:  woiks  ol  it?  f-'ilti'd  author." — Spr'nigfii'd  Republican. 

"  Tiio  l,ift>  of  Hli<'ri<lan,  the  wit  c-oiitaiiis  n^<  much  food  for  serious  tlio.igli':  as  the 
best  fiorrnon  that  was  ovrr  jiciinrd." — Arlhvfs  Home  Gnzctte. 

"Tin;  sketch  of  such  n  chiiractor  and  ciiiTor  as  Siinidan'e  by  sue  ^and  as  Moore'a, 
can  never  coi^t^r  to  be  attractive." — N.  Y.  Coiirirr  niir>  Eiiqnirvr. 

'•'Pile  work  is  instructivn  and  full  of  interest." — Christinv  Intelligevri'r. 

"  it  is  a  uem  of  bioarajihy ;  full  of  incident.  elrj:nntly  writti^n,  v\arm]y  apprrciative, 
jnd  on  the  whole  candid  and  just.  .Slieridan  was  a  rare  and  woiid(Thil  genius,  and  has 
In  tiiis  work  justice  done  to  his  surpassing  merits."— iV.  1'.  Evaiigdist, 


BARRINGTON'S  SKETCHES. 

Per.sonal  Skctchos  of  his  own  Time,  by  Sir  Jonah  BARRirfCTOpr, 
Judi^c  (  f  tho  rii<;h  Court  of  Admiralty  in  Ireland,  with  Illustra- 
tions by  .Parley.     Third  Edition,  12mo,  cloth,  $1  25. 

"  A  moro  cntcrtninini:  hook  than  this  ^-  not  often  thrown  in  our  way.  His  skotchos 
of  character  are  inimitable  ;  and  many  of  the  jjromintnt  men  of  his  tune  are  hit  otl'ia 
tiie  mf)8t  striking  and  graceful  outline." — Alliniy  Ar^Ds. 

"  llo  was  a  very  ^!lr"wd  ol)8erver  and  ecceiitiie.  writer,  and  liis  narrative  of  his  own 
life,  and  sketches  of  society  in  Ireland  during  his  times,  arc  exceedingly  humorous  and 
intiresting." — A^.  Y.  Comincrrial  Advirtitfcr. 

"  It  is  one  of  those  works  whicli  are  conceived  and  written  in  so  hearty  a  view,  and 
brings  l)efore  the  reader  bo  many  palpable  and  amusinii  ciiaracters,  that  "the  entertain 
nieiit  and  inlormation  are  c-qually  b.-ihinced."—  U(t.<tnn  Trmii-rript. 

"This  is  one  of  the  most  entertaining'  books  of  the  season." — N.  Y.  nccnrdrr. 

"  It  portrays  in  Hie-like  colors  the  rliaiacteis  and  daily  iiabits  of  nearly  all  the  £ng 
lish  and  Irish  celebrities  of  that  period."— i\'.  Y.  Courier  and  Enquirer, 


JOMINrS 


CAMPAIGN  OF 


WATERLOO. 


Th.e  Political  and  Military  History  of  the  Campaign  of  AVnterloo 
from  tiie  French  of  Gen.  Baron  Jomini,  by  Lieut.  S  V.  Bknet 
U.  S.  Ordnance,  with  a  r-Iap,  12mo,  cloth,  75  cents'. 

"Of  gn..t  value,  both  for  its  historical  merit  and  its  acknowledged  impartiality."— 
Chrinian  Framan,  Hosioii. 

•'  It  has  long  lieen  ret;arded  in  Europe  as  a  work  of  more  than  ordinary  merit,  while 
to  military  men  his  review  of  tin;  tactics  and  mane^uvrj'S  of  the  Erench  Emperor  dur- 
ing the  few  days  which  jjreceded  his  final  and  most  disastrous  defeat,  is  considered  aa 
instructive,  as  it  is  intereslinn."— .-Jr/^i^r'.s  Home  Gazette. 

"  It  is  a  standard  authority  and  illustrates  a  subject  of  permanent  interrst,  Witlci 
military  students,  and  historical  incpiirers.  it  will  ta;  a  favorite  reference,  and  for  the 
general  reader  it  ])osse8ses  great  value  and  interest." — Boflon  Traiixrript. 

"  It  tiirows  mucli  light  on  often  mooted  j)oints  resitecting  Napoleon's  military  and 
political  genius.     The  tran.-latiiUi  is  one  of  nuicl'  vicor."— /Jos^i/t  CommonwaiUh. 

"It  supplii  .4  an  importtint  chapter  in  the  nio'  t  interesriug  and  eve".tful  period  of  Na 
puleou's  iiiililaiy  ctiieer." — SnvtHiiiah  D<iH{l  NtiP.<. 

"It  is  ul>ly  written  und  ekilfully  translated."-  l.i/i/.ir  hli\a:. 


inSmitntim^m 


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"  The  hitcrit  and  best  account  of  the  actual  state  of 
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''  The  book  of  a  quick  and  honest  observer.  Full  of 
delightful  entertainment." — Loudon  Kcaniine'r. 

"  A  witness  worth  listening  to  on  matters  whereon 
good  evidence  is  particularly  difficult  to  obtain." — Lon- 
don Guardian. 

"No  work  of  similar  character  with  the  same  lio-ht- 
ness  of  execution  has  conveyed  an  equally  clear  idea 
of  the  vast  enipire  composed  of  so  many  disproportion- 
ate parts." — London  Critic. 

"  Mr.  Oliphant  has  not  only  travelled  whei'e  few 
European  travellers  have  been  belV>re  him,  but  he  hfis 
wandered  amid  scenes  of  which  everybody  is  anxious 
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IX    T'RESS. 

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IN  THE  EUROPEAX  AXD  ASIATIC  DOMIiMOXS  OF  THE  SULTAN. 


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With  a  Colored  EUinological  Map  of  the  Turkish  Empire. 

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"  Mb.  Smyth  basbail  rare  opportunities.  Few  men  hare  crossed  and  recrospod 
the  empire  in  so  many  directions  ;  and  many  are  the  errors,  the  false  reports, 
the  misconceptions  as  to  fact  or  motive  which  are  here  corrected  by  an  able  and 
impartial  witness." — London  Athenccutn,  February  25th,  1854. 

**  Mr.  Smytu's  mode  of  travelling  was  well  adapted  to  observe  the  character 
and  condition  of  the  people,  as  well  as  to  form  a  judgment  upon  the  mode  of 
government,  and  its  cflects.  Indeed,  his  object  in  publishing  this  volume  was 
less  to  give  an  account  of  his  journeyings,  than  to  throw  what  light  he  could 
upon  the  Turkish  empire  and  people.  lie  has  a  pleasant,  picturesque  and  direct 
style,  and  also,  that  knowledge  of  the  past  which  is  necessary  to  make  travel 
profitable  ;  but  he  does  not  overlay  his  subjects  with  history." — London  Sjuc- 
taior,  February  25lh,  1854. 


In  Frosa, 

FIFTY  YEARS  IN  BOTH  IIEMISPIIERES. 


BY   VINCENT    NOLTE 


r  " ^'  • "  'ft 


[URKEY. 


[URKS 


THE  SULTAN. 

LA. 

lisli  Empire. 


)!?sc(l  and  recrospod 
,  the  false  reports, 
;ted  by  an  able  and 
4. 

serve  tlie  character 
;  upon  the  mode  of 
[ig  this  volume  wan 
rhat  light  he  could 
mresque  and  direct 
ary  to  make  travel 
p-." — London  Spec- 


/ 


HERES. 


